Gloyale

Uh, without the radius rods from the crossmember to support them, the wheels would try to splay outward anyhow. You really need to support the unibody with jackstands. Probably near or on the trailing arm supports, and additionally at the rear ends of the unibody frame rails in rear. Then you will be free to remove Wheels, hubs, diff, crossmember and all.

Replace the Plugs with NGK or Denso. If the wires are "belden" change them out too. Check all the insulation for the wires to the fuel injectors, I had a car with similar symptoms that turned out to be a combination of cheap "belden" plug wires, and a knicked insulation on the injector wires.

I have a cool Radar Detector/Jammer that also has GPS and can use the GPS to tell you you're speed. I tested my GL Turbo running 27x8.50/14s and I was about 10% faster than indicated speed. 20=22 30=33 40=44 50=55 70=77

2wd Turbos still used the 3spd until 89. 23 spline. *note* The 2wd, automatic, Turbo axles have a beefier set of joints than standard 23 spline axles. A real score for offroading in D/R trans vehichles, if you can get them. Otherwise all the above is correct.

That is a page I scanned form the 89 FSM. IIRC at the time I posted it for a Refference to axle lengths and types. Here is the kicker, The chart on the bottom of the page is still the same chart from the 86 FSM. The Autos reffered to in that chart are 3spds, although they didn't put those in AWD Turbos after late 87. There are instances all over in the FSM where old info carries over, even though it's not correct and other parts of the FSM have the corrections. To the OP, You do need 25 spline axles. Order them for a Turbo, Manual trans car, and you'll get the correct ones. *NOTE* 2wd Turbo Automatics did continue through 89 and did still use the 3spd auto. 23 spline

His 86 4wd is Carbed. Meter/engine fuse IIRC is fuse 5. Problem is in this case you won't *notice* all the things that aren't working because there is no way to *see* whether the choke has power. You need to check with a meter or test light. You need to disconnect the bowl vent solenoid and the auto choke wires. Then see if it still blows. *NOTE* if you disconnect the main connector on the carb, the anti-diesel solenoid won't get power. So you have to remove the wire off the choke and bowl vent solenoid seperately.

<<<<< Entire USMB chanting in Chorus >>>>> WE WANT PICS! WE WANT PICS! WE WANT PICS!

This connector: And this one: Could I see a side view of the connectors to get a view of wire colors and pin location?? I want to verify that these are the same connector in both pics. And that the wiring colors for your '83(?) are the same as my '84. That connector is the only one of the originals still there. The other 2 round connectors in my car appear to be from whatever car the dash came form. But some pics of the round connectors and the back of the dash in you're car would be great too. I AM going top untangle the wires and sort everything out to take pictures. I will at the same time try to verify that everything is correct. Some things, like the *fuel low* light are not hooked up. I have a feeling the cruise is not working either, needs to be tied into the tach and speedo, as well as shifter position(auto) lights. Having pics that show wire color corresponding to pins would be a huge help, so I can figure out which colors the original wiring in the car is supposed to go to.

Well, I am already going to be pulling pins from the connectors to tap in an ECS light and speedo wire. So I am considering pulling ALL the pins from the connectors, 1 at a time, and trying to untangle the whole mess a bit so it's easier to see what's going on. Connie (Bucky92), could you take some photos of the connectors for the digidash? I want to be absolutely sure that this did have a digidash, and that it wasn't hacked up[ for some other reason.

Here ya go: http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:1plepx5rXxTIQM:http://blog.sideline.ca/wp-content/uploads/2007/07/spaghetti_thumbnail.png

I'll bet the heating element in the auto choke mechanism has shorted. Or possibly the bowl vent solenoid. Both are located on the carb, and they are powered when the ignition is on by that fuse. Try uplugging one at a time and installing a new fuse to see if it blows.

So, I am begining an interior replacement and SPFI conversion on my 84 EA81 4wd Sedan. This car has all the options of a GL-10 model, but is only a GL. Power window, Power Doorlocks, Cruise Control,Sunroof, lot's of chrome....... and apparently, a digital dash. Yeah, that's right.......had a digital dash. Something I was not aware of. Sadly this means the car may have more than the indicated 78k miles as well I didn't know that the dash had ever been removed or messed with. I started pulling it yesterday to get to the ECS light and the Speed sensor. When I got it off, I found this. So, even though it seemed that the analog dash was working, I now want to get a new dash(or at least harness) and check/redo the work. Espescially the cluster to the right of the main part that has the *car* and displays the open doors and whatnot. The back of that circuit board has been hacked and soldered onto. works, but just not my style. Additionally, the speedometer doesn't seem to have any wiring for a reed switch/ speed sensor. So I think this dash came from an older car, as I was under the impression that all the later EA81s had the sensor on the speedometer for use with the *feedback* carbs. So.... anyone got the analog dash and digital dash wiring diagrahms for 84 sedans???

True, but I personally believe that orienting the holes upward helps keep air bubbles from forming.

Excactly, there is no resistance. An open diff needs resistance from both axles to transsfer power. When there is no resistance from one axle, the Viscous coupler is the only thing that keeps power going to the other shaft. This is wrong. Firtst off, only the automatics are FWD by default, and they have no "differnetial" it's a computer controlled hydraulic clutch pack. These can safely be driven with the rear output disconnected. MANUAL TRANSMISSION SUBARUS ARE TRUE AWD! Not FWD. There is a true "differential" with bevel and spider gears. Power goes equally front to back the in the same manner as it goes side to side through the differentials at the axles. What happens when one wheel is on ice or mud spinning with an open diff? The other wheel just sits there not getting any power. Unless there is a LSD. Imagine removing one side axle on a FWD car. Would the car drive??? NO. Not without an LSD, and if it had one the LSD would be the ONLY thing transfering power. So now imagine instead of a wheel at each end of the diff, we have a whole axle. That is what we are dealing with here. If the rear output is disconnected, it's just the same as if the rear wheels were spinning free on ice. What happens in that situation? The car would go nowhere if it was just an open diff (ask anyone with an old *fulltime* xt or RX) But for the newer cars, there is THE VISCOUS PACK (LSD). It is the only reason the diff TRANSFERS POWER in that situation! Nipper, sorry, but you clearly don't understand how the VC works. To the Original poster. DO NOT drive with the rear shaft disconnected for anything but a short test to see if the Torque bind goes away. You WILL damage you're center diff if you drive without the rear output for any length of time.

It's an open diff with a viscous locker. Example: like any open diff, the power will go to the axle with the least resistance, say a front wheel in mud. When that wheel spins (with the rears sitting still) there will be a speed difference. The Fluid heats,expands, and locks, sending power to the rear wheel and getting you out of the mud. Now apply that to our situation: No rear axle means that all the power will first go through the rear output, spinning the shaft in the air. Front axles will not get any power till the fluid heats, expands, and locks. Only then will the fronts get power and ALL of that power will be coming through the viscous pack. Normally, the viscous unit is only called on momentarily to transfer during wheel slip in snow,mud, etc. (the spider gears in the diff take all the force as long as all 4 wheels are on the ground) But in this case, you'd be asking it to transfer ALL you're driving force ALL the time. Not good for it. Plus, the viscous pack can't transfer all the force created by the engine either, so you would also end up with a tremendous power and efficiency loss.

Return the spin on filter. Return the internal screen filter. There is nothing gained from replacing it. It's a PITA as well. The pan is sealed with Threebond (grey or black RTV will work), but you really might want to leave it be if it's not leaking. Now, here is something I just learned. Some early legacies had an external filter installed in the line that runs to the trans cooler in the radiator. it is against the frame rail, drivers side, below the battery. If you 're car doesn't have it, you could install it. It comes as a kit from subaru. Alternately, you could install a real trans cooler, and a filter in the process

You could remove the driveshaft as a diagnostic tool. However, I would not drive it like that for any extended time at all. If you're center diff is OK now, it won't be after running with only FWD. You'll be asking the viscous coupler to transfer power through it all the time. You'll be absolutely cooking it even going to the grocery store. Yeah, being an internal transmission part, Haynes doesn't cover it. Anything beyond a clutch change, Haynes(and chilton) say something like "due to the complexity of transmissions, repair by the home mechanic is not possible. Take it to a dealer or transmission shop" What you really need is a Subaru FSM.

Get a set of 2wd rear struts. They are longer and will give you about an inch of height. For more even moreheight, here's something I've done. When I swapped in the set of new 2wd struts, I used the old spring seats from the old struts as a spacer(flipped upsidedown) under the new spring seat. It took the rear of my 85 sedan(EA82 sedans got WEAK springs) from saggy to stiff and tall.

Cool. So, when you reassembled them, did you do the pump up immersed in oil? If so, how much could you push them in by hand while pumping?

Ughh..... That's why they are junk. Last time I checked, you can buy new axle boots and a whole lot of paper towels for half the cost of even cheap-o axles, let alone the dealership.

You're not understanding. The captive nuts that hold the bumper in are on the *fingers*, but the holes that the hitch mounts to are in the unibody. Once you pull the *fingers* out, you will be left with a view in through the frame rail from behind. You don't have to weld new nuts, you just need to get them in there and hold with a wrench. Unless you are using a hitch setup I am totally unfamiliar with, it should only utilize the frame rail the recovery brackets. And if you did have to weld new nuts onto the *fingers* why would that be so hard? You critisize Fuji's ability to line stuff up, yet you have no confidence in you're own ability to do so? The holes are already there, stick the nut on top and weld. What's so hard?

Classic inner joint issue. Yeah, EMPI axles suck. I just get JY axles and reboot them, way cheaper and they last just as long as you keep a well greased boot on them.

You are correct that the battery cables do run to the starter (pos to the starter, Neg to a bracket very near it). That is the main power wire that the starter draws current from. There is also a second, very small wire that attaches to the rear of the starter. (a *spade* connector) This is the *solenoid* terminal, and the wire that signals the starter to turn. It get's power when the key is turned. This is the wire that *comes form the ignition* that was mentioned. What you need to do is bypass that ciruit to test the starter. Here's what to do: Get a 3 or 4 foot piece of wire. 16g or bigger(smaller #) crimp a female *spade* connector to one end. Strip the other end to expose some wires. Connect that spade to the solenoid on the starter. Turn the Key to the *ON* position. make sure the car is in Nuetral (MT) or Park (Auto). Now touch the exposed end of your wire to the POS terminal of the battery. If the starter is good, it will spin and the car should start. If you get nothing, the starter (or at least it's contacts) is bad. If this works, and the car starts, you know that the problem is in the circuit from the ignition switch. Many people remedy this by either installing a pushbutton, or a relay, or a combination of both.

How did you restake the *cap*???

I know it'd be nice to keep it all metric, but I'd tap it for a 7/16 (standard) exhaust stud. The stripped metric hole should already be the correct size to run the tap in with a little cutting oil. If for some reason it strips again in the future, you will still have enough meat to helicoil it back to M10. A helicoil will work now, but may come out the next time you try to unbolt the exhaust. A real PITA(just had this happen to the lower *smooth* timing belt pulley mount on an EJ22, it had been helicoiled and we didn't know.) so tapping the block directly for a proper stud is the best option. Use some locktite on the stud so it doesn't come out next time.