Gloyale

Probably cause he's in Washington. Alaska style is just his Screen Name. For a transmission that can take the power, 4.44 geared 4eat with the transfer clutch locked FTW. Hydraulics:headbang:

It is a condensor. Most likely that isn't you're problem. But you should be able to get it easily with the coil bracket. I'll bet the Cam angle sensor in the disty is not sending the proper signal. Try opening the distributor and cleaning the slotted wheel. If that doesn't work, get a used disty and swap it out.

You will be doing without the EGR valve As for the IAC. Problem stems from he fact that the Phase II engines(in this case you're 2.2) will have 6 pins for the IAC (sometimes called the "bypass air control valve") The earlier phase I engine (the DOHC 2.5) uses only has 3 pins. I think it would be possible to use the 3 wires in you're phase I harness to connect to 3 of the Phase II IAC pins and give it minimal functionality. I have been interested in trying to overcome this hurdle. It's the same issue that I've hit trying to put an SOHC forrester EJ25 into a 90 Legacy. Read Mellow's write up about it in the USRM. He just left the Phase II IAC disconnected and it runs fine once warm. He unbolted the Phase I IAC and ziptied it onto the manifold so the connector had something to plug into, so no CEL. But it just dangles and doesn't control anything. A good diagrahm of the Phase II type IAC is needed. Anybody got the wiring daigrahm for PHASE II engines?

The AWD EJ trans are capapble of some pretty damn good offroading. My buddy has a 5 inch lifted legacy with a 5spd, and his problems always stem from the open diffs at the axles, which you would still have with a PT EA box. The center LSD does a good job of transfering fore and aft.

Well, all the actual Gauges on the analog, the connection goes through the 2 round plugs. that is the main part of the dash. All the wires such as Temp/Voltmeter/Oil Pressure/Fuel/Low fuel light/Tach/ECS/4wd/4lo/turnsignals/HiBeam/and Lighting can be repinned from the round connectors of the digidash to go right on the analog. The other wires go to the *car* display that shows open doors/defrost/ParkBrake and the clock wiring. Those connectors were cut off my analog dash and hardwired so i don't know what they look like. These are the ones likely to need spliced and wiring will go to clock memory/clock power/clock lighting/grounds as well as the Open doors and Defrost and Parking light Looking forward very much to scans of the Digi and Analog pinouts. A diagrham showing wire colors of at least the Digi dash wiring would be great. I need to figure out what wires go to my cruise control unit.

The fuel pump is in the rear, the Fuel pump relay is under the dash mounted to the Column. I know on my GL, I can here the fuel pump, and the relay click. The Click under the dash makes it *seem* like the buzzing is from there too, but it isn't it's the pump in the rear. Not 4 seconds, more like 1 or 2. Mr-Loyale, I really think you're hearing the fuel pump and the relay clicking. Check again and I'll bet you find it's not running 4 seconds either.

It wouldn't be sparking if the CAM sensor was bad. Could be the Crank sensor though. Good idea to pull the outer T-Belt covers and inspect the belt. Check that the timing is still aligned. But I'm guessing it's not he problem since you checked it out recently.

Test the Coolant temp sensor, make sure the ECU is seeing the correct value when warmed up. Try higher octane gas and see if it goes away. If it does, the problem may be carbon deposits on the piston tops raising you're compression slightly. Also, the carbon gets red hot like burning charcoal in there and contributes to the predetonation. Try the higher octane, and if that works, run a few bottles of good fuel treatment/ cleaner through it.

Legacy GTs have a hood scoop and should bolt right on.

Yeah, that's classic Subaru axle vibration.

Likely you're ignition switch is worn. Test for voltage at the starter signal wire when the key is turned. If you get voltage, It's a good sign that you're Park/neutral switch is working, but the circuit still may not be able to supply enough current. Next test, use a section of wire to *jump* power to the solenoid terminal(small tab) fromt eh battery. If the starter spins/engine cranks, then the problem is definately in the switch circuit. If that is the case, you need to wire up the car with a relay and/or pushbutton for starting. Search "pushbutton relay starter"

You'll get terrible milage and run very rich like that. You can eliminate items one by one. First, disconnect the wire that goes to the auto choke. It is held by a screw and ring connector, so just unscrew it and tape it and set it aside. Put in a fuse and see if it blows. If it still does, you're problem is one of the other 2 devices, The bowl vent solenoid, and the anti diesel solenoid. To test them you can make some jumper wires. Get a few sections of wire, and some male and female spade connectors. make sections of wire with a male on one end, and female on the other. Now you to test the components, use 3 of you're jumpers. Connect them between the harness and the plug on the carb. This will allow you to disconnect each cmponet one at a time, leaving the others hooked up. My money is on the Bowl vent solenoid (drivers side of Carb, upper front) When you unplug that connector entirely, Does it even run? I would think you need to have power to the antidiesel solenoid. (passenger side of carb) If it is running without power to the anti diesel solenoid, it may be stuck *open* and could be you're short.

The round connectors are super easy to get the wire ends out of. Looking at the face of them, there is a locking tab visible for each pin. Use a small flat screwdriver and lift up the little tab and Voila! the wire slides out. I believe you should be able to repin the connectors easily to just plug into the back of the analog dash.

Actually, it doesn't need to be driven out. If you simply unbolt the linkage, you can still seperate the rear extension. The key is to remove the bolt that holds the reverse lockout arm to the shifter input rod. You have to remove the cover with 4 bolts on the rear/top of trans. If you remove that 10mm bolt, then you can simply turn the input rod couterclockwise and pull the tailsection off.

Sweet, let me know if you need anything for it. Or if you need the excact 87 FSM for anything.

Assuming you mean for EA82 cars? I'll go take one.

What excactly are you transfering over? Almost nothing between EA81 and EA82 are the same.

No the digidash and the analog dash both use the same round connectors, 2 of them. However the arrangemment is different so whoever did this conversion cut and spliced wires rather than repin the connectors. Sad

The four wire one is definately the trinary pressure switch connector. As far as the horn, easy way is to take the bumper off. 4 bolts on the inside edge of the front frame rail. Likely you're horn harness is fine, but the horns are shot. Happens commmonly. If you buy a replacement, make sure it is a 2 wire type, not a single, grounded through the bolt type.

Well, it does have a speed sensor in the anolog dash. Bad news is that someone actually remoive the speedo unit from the dash, and cut the wires right at the very point they are soldered to the unit:rolleyes: Why??? I also took each wire out of each connector one at a time and rearranged the rats nest. Looks better now. Sadly, I am not sure if this will be a "rosseta stone" because I can't trust the colors of wires. I originally thought that the round connectors came from the analog dash donor car with the dash. I know believe that the round connectors are actually the ones for the DigiDash. Just cut and respliced, so it doesn't really help with color to color match up for the conversion. The colors in my car are likely completely different than a standard analog car. If it was me, I would have simply repined the connectors, rather than cut and splice. Those round connectors are SUPER EASY to remove and relocate the pins around. No camera at the shop yesterday. Pics tonight. Anyone got an 84 FSM showing the digidash wiring? Or even the non digidash?

The strut tops need to be placed so that the upper portion of the strut is closest to the inside of the body. So the lift tops would be like this \\ // looks kinda cockeyed when you first put it on the strut, but once you put the struts on the car it becomes obvious

The bar that extends forward from each wheel is the trailing arm. It bolts into a bracket located basically underneath the rear doors, in fromt of the wheel wells. These bars are what transfer all the rotation of the wheels into forward motion of the car. Or to think of it another way, the wheels "push" the chassis forward using those arms as a handle. The point they bolt into is a major structural junction and a good jacking point.

I just wonder why they made em:rolleyes: ????? But they did.

They did redesign the head gaskets. But as far as I know, the blocks are still open deck. I think we would here some major hoop'n and holler'n if subaru had produced new "closed deck" blocks. But as of yet, the only closed deck EJs are the 2.2 Turbos from 90-94 Legacies. Anyhow, that is New Gen stuff. Any EA series motor should not need any additives.

I assume you installed the vacuum hose from the pump to the cable actuator? Does the vac pump get power and turn on when you hit the cruise button on the dash? Is there a fuse installed in the fuse box for the cruise?