Gloyale

Who, news to me. I'm still not sure though. My Dad lives in central Cali, in a really rural area. I don't think he has to take his cars to a dyno station. But I could be wrong. I was born there, learned to drive there, but haven't registered a car there since 1998. At any rate, I'm an enviromentalist, yet I still think SMOG laws are crap. Just there to make you buy new cars.

Sorry, laughing at the idea, more than AT you. Sorry if it seemed rude. Not the intent. Glad you got it fixed.

It's excactly the same tranny without the low range.

I used 98 OB struts on a 91 Legacy wagon with no blocks and my camber was fine. If the lift kit lifts has blocks for the tops of the strut and for the rear crossmember he should end up the same before vs. after the lift. That is, unless the lift kit has *straight* strut top extensions. They should be angled to match the angle of the unibody mount, so the mounting point goes straight down instead of pointing out.

JB weld??? What about good ol' welding weld. I mean it's steel, why not just weld it. A low amprage wire feed welder would patch that right up.

Kenosha, I forgot there was no testing up north. I knew alot of people who registered there cars up north to the address of some relative or a cabin or something, to avoid the emmisions test. IDK about Cali. They have SMOG certification. Which is normally done at service stations. California hjas WAAAY too many cars spread over too much land mass to have a state operated dyno center available to every car. Normal testing is done at regular repair shops. The station has to be certified, and linked to the database. They do an underhood visual inspection, and then do an exhaust analysis, at idle and IIRC at 3000 rpms, but not on a dyno. I don't think they use dyno rollers unless you fail a SMOG test at a service station, then you have to go to one of their special facilities with the dyno. There you're car can be *refereed* Unless they have changed in the last 5 years.

HAHAHHAHAHHAHHAHAHA:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Just unbolts! HAHAHHAHHHAHHHAHHA:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Obviously you haven't tried to remove one. Seriously, they are pressed in hard. Unless the pickup tube is punctured or severely fubar, i would leave it. Even if you have to bend it slightly to get it back to normal position. If you have to remove it, use some *freeze off*. No, not the wart remover stuff. Should be in the auto parts store next to the PB Blaster and WD-40. Supposed to loosen stuck bolts by super freezing them with a shot of liquid Nitro. It will shrink that oil tube and let you pull it out. Still gonna be way hard though. IMO, I really doubt it's damaged actually.

If you look at the shape of that bracket you can see it's not hard to make one out of plate steel. We are making one with a 3 inch drop for a 4 inch lift right now. I haven't really been posting about it, but pics to come soon.

This is a joke right??? You obviously haven't seen the DOHC 2.5 pulleys have you???

Well, here's my take. I got very upset in wisconsin that they made my 4wd GL pass the ssame emmissions standards as 2wd cars of the era. The reason is that the 4wd Subarus were imported as *light utility vehichles* Says so right on the under hood emmissions sticker. Take a look at a 2wd Soob, and youy'll see the sticker says *passensger vehichle*. That is why 2wd and Cali Models had the feedback carb, and all others didn't. Didn't matter to the state, even though it was the EPA allowed for the difference. They made my car meet the same standards as every other car from that era. The way Wisconsin Tests is lame too. Dyno roller style. Some yahoo gets in you're car and *drives* it on the rollers. He watches a screen with a graph he is supposed to follow speed wise, accelerating and decelerating. Problem is the graph is the same for all cars. They should use a *slower* graph for smaller cars. It doesn't reflect the real world at all. So big V8 and V6 cars with lots of power, barely need to rev or have full throttle applied to match the graph speeds. My poor little soobie gets run wide open and revved to 5500 just to keep up to the graph. (I've had to be retested because the guy couldn't get my car to keep up the first time) So the big cars breeze by, but the little old cars that don't have alot of horsepower get wailed on. Which engine is going to put out more pollution the one barely idleing or the one being driven WOT to Redline????

The 2.5 I am talking about has NO holes of any kind in the Cam pulleys. They are solid, with a about a 44 mm Hex head cast into them for a tool to hold. The lip of said hex protion is only about 3-4 mm thick, so it's hard to get a tool to hold. And, unfortunately, the drivers side ones, the hex is recessed into the pulley, so use of a large cresent or even channel locks is pretty impossible. I had to fashion a strap wrench from the old belt.

Ah, but you probably source your bar stock from Fastenal or somewhere industrial. The threaded stock at Autozone, Home Depot, or the local hardware store is crap. Plus If it isn't cut and beveled properly at the end that threads into the head, it can booger you're brand new threads. Best advice for home mechanics is to buy a stud, rather than try to make them.

you're losing Vaccum somewhere. Have you tested the Check valve and the resevior. You must have the cruise setup that uses engine vaccum not an electric vac pump?? But you have a GL-10, should be the "factory" set-up that uses the electric pump?? Hmmm... Have you checked the relay for the blower motor?

Tap the hole for 7/16 course thread. You don't evven need ot drop the exhaust or drill the hole. Just run the tap right in with some oil. Then buy a $2.00 chevy/dodge/ford exhaust stud and nut. (better than threaded rod stock). You're done and it will never pop out like you're JB weld will. The threads may strip eventally if you take you're exhaust off often. But this fix still leaves you enough meat to helicoil in the future if it does.

Losing water regularly isn't normal. For any size engine. Possibly HGs. But I'd check all hose connections, espescially the heater hoses and their clamps.

Sometimes it's Torque bind. Sometimes it's the opposite, no AWD (no power to rear wheels) Sometimes the failure will be from an electrical issue, Namely the C solenoid or it's wiring. This ussually trips a code. If a code is stored, you're *AT TEMP* light will flash a whole bunch (16 times) on start up. I personally delivered pizza for a bit in a 93 Legacy with 300k miles, original 4EAT. AWD worked great in Wisconsin winters. Very slight Torque bind when backing up and turning. I never worried about it, it seemed to release after a the first *hop*

Sign me up for this list. I am in Cornvalley (Corvallis). I actually bought my GL Turbo in McMinnville though. Seriously, if you guys are doing a coast range off-road trip, I'm in. And my buddy Gemini will bring his 5" inch lifted legacy (2" susp/ 3" body) if it is finished. We are still making the front strut tops. Took a while to order in 4-3/4" steel tube.

Thanks Gary. You rock. Yeah, I know these things are spendy. However If I have to replace a head or a whole motor cause the bolt backs out of the Cam and the sprocket slips, it will be more spendy. Right now I have an old T-belt fashioned into a strap wrench, but it doesn't hold tight enough for me to really torque the bolts. I locktited them. Still, I'm worried about them backing out down the road. Not really, just paranoia. I figure the right tool will make it an easier job. And allow me to re-torque the bolts really well. Channel locks booger up the sprocket. Then the proper tool wouldn't even work anymore. I don't like that method.

Someones gotta have a cam carrier they could send this poor guy huh? I do and will send it, but is anyone closer? Which side?

Sounds to me like the *C* or *transfer clutch* duty solenoid has gone out. Montana FWD fuse will release the bind if the *C* solenoid still functions, and the clutches aren't entirely siezed. In this case, the clutches are either siezed, or more likely the *C* solenoid has failed. I would personally just buy a new clutch set, a Solenoid, and a Gasket and service it on the car rather than replacing a known good operating trans. It's not worth the risk unless you are getting fully rebuilt for big $$$ You never know what you will get at a J-yard. The shop may or may not back it up and it would be a pain to have to make them install a second one if the first was bunk.

Hey I want to go in to my local dealer and order the Cam Sprocket hold tool for the DOHC 2.5 with the plastic(ish) pulleys. Should have a large(like 46mm or something) hex opening. Also like to get one for the 2.2, but those it's easier to cheat with a generic spanner. Anyone care to look up the Subie part #s for each?

Not as easy as the 2.2, but it might be doable. There is a plug at the rear of the head for Camshaft like the 2.2. Pull the cam retainer/rocker carrier assembly off the head and the plug should be free to come out. From there it's just a matter of finding a disty to fit, and a way to bolt it down. Probably require some machining/welding tabs to the head.

I've also seen small debris clog the needle valve open. Again the thing to do is remove the top part of the carb and clean out or replace the needle valve, and reset the float.

You have a MAP. My bad. Okay, so check the vac line to the MAP for leaks or obstructions.

All the lower body panels are different. (plastic cladding) And I believe they also had taller suspension, and 15 inch wheels.