Gloyale

Final Ratio differences FTW.

Well, those seat belt ends are riveted into the seat mounts. They'll need to be drilled out.

This would be locking the right rear as well as the left front. Unless the rear drum is out of adjustment. Good thing to check on though. Also, once you remove the caliper, if the wheel still won't turn, it's probably you're wheel bearings. * notes about Hill Holder The older hill holder sytems locked Front Left/Rear Right. Newer hill holder setups (95 +) just lock the Front Right.

You're RX Front springs are probably the stiffest you can get. For Rears, IIRC the 4wd wagon springs are almost as high a spring rate as the RX, and might be a bit taller. I know regular sedans have way softer springs than 4wd wagons. Oh yeah, only wagons had bumpstops.

You guy's aren't getting the point that the circuit should absolutely be of proper gauge wire with a fuse at the source. I ussually tie into the 12v at the fusebox, so additionally the ciruit is protected by the factory harness fusible links. I really want people to stop spreading the idea that a pushbutton is somehow not a *proper* or *safe* circuit. Wired properly, it's no more *risky* than the original Fuji designed circuit, which did not use a relay. Not every circuit needs a relay. In fact, I think it just adds another source of possible failure. I said it before, i'll say it again. If you can't wire a safe pushbutton circuit, how the hell are you going to wire a relay??? I don't mount it where it's visible form outside the car, so they would have to break in already to see it. And then, A thief wouldn't be able to start (or steer) the car without the key. It would just sit there and crank. I've wired a few buttons to be hot only when the key is *on* for extra protection. If a thief got in and pressed the button without the key, nothing would happen.

It's only on the flapper system cars. Later models it's built into the ECU. On the early ones, the unit is attached to the far end of the dash, behind glovebox on the passenger side. You almost have to unbolt that side of the dash and pull it forward to access.

Naaahhhh.... they run fine. Very popular set-up for Sandrails. 2.5 block, 2.2 heads. Run 89 or 92 octane if you get any pinging.

Well, from that testing, it seems your problem was the contacts in the starter. (or you were jumpering with too small a gauge wire) Yours would be the first case of failure of those contacts I've seen. Keep in mind, a weak current from the ignition switch will not pull the solenoid closed very hard. This may have caused the excessive carbon on the contacts you replaced. And it could end up doing the same thing to the new set. In general, I still maintain that the Ignition switch is far and away the most likely cause when this issue rears it's head.

2wds don't use a typical star wheel type adjustment. There is actually a bolt that speads a wedge. Bolt sticks out the back side of the backing plate, near the bottom. Often there is a rubber cap over it. Pull that off. Then turn that bolt head counter clockwise to loosen it up. There a detent posistions on it, so it will feel kinda "bumpy* as you turn it out. After you install the new shoes, it will need readjusted. Jack the wheel to be adjusted into the air. Then turn the adjuster bolt clockwise while spinning the wheel. go until it is tight (stops wheel from spinning) then back it off 1 or 2 *notches*

hmmm.... rear section of driveshaft, 2 half shafts, rear diff......more like 200 Lbs. If you were to use a 2wd trans you could shed even another 50-100 lbs. I know my 2wd (carbeurated) 85 GL gets 33+. My 4wd 86 GL (carbed) got 25 with a light foot. So 8 mpg improvement???

I would suggest disconnecting the battery for a while. Then go for a good 20-30 min drive. THis will allow the ECU to *relearn* for the new o2 sensor. if the problem persists, check the operation of you're TPS. You may also want to spray the hotwire of the MAF with MAF cleaner.

Spark plugs and wires. Replace with NGK or Denso plugs and OEM(packard) or NGK wires

Have yuo been through any mud lately??? I've had mud stuck on the inner portion of the rim cause odd vibrations. Clean the wheels good and gone.

Unless that shim is thinner than .07 mm (.00025 in) it has increased the size of the crank to larger than it should be. Which puts the skirt of the seal at a funky angle. That would be the thickness of paper so I doubt that you are still within tolerances. I've never seen one of those sleeves needed on a EA82. Only ever on old Iron v8s. I don't know if it's possible to remove it, but I would. Then clean the crank with emery cloth real good and install a new seal with locktite.

There is a parking light switch on the top center of the steering column. She bumped it when cleaning the car. One of the more common *newbie* Subaru problems

Bad idea to pressure wash the engine. So is parking you're car in a flood plane. Then driving it before letting it dry out, duh..... Neither is really akin to a small stream crossing. And the exhaust would be fine. That is like the very last of things that can be harmed by a stream crossing(unless there are hidden rocks,lol) I seriously doubt that you're cars exhaust somehow *warped* closed because of snow. Doesn't happen.

Positive it's not leaking form the oil pump??? Other than that, did you get the crank turned to fit that sleeve on it??? If not, you're diameter is increased and the seal may not be fitting right. Also it looks like I can see a bit of a bend in the edge of that sleeve. Could that be nicking or damaging the the seal as you install it???

If this was true, the starter would not work even when supplied with voltage from a source other than the ignition switch.(i.e. pushbutton) I have yet to see a Subaru starter that wouldn't crank when hit with voltage from a jumper wire to battery voltage. That would be the prescribed test for the solenoid in a service manual, would it not??? They always pass. It is ALWAYS a problem of getting the current to the starter, via the factory wiring/switch. Search this topic and you'll read most of the time people have already replaced a starter, or contacts, or both, often multiple times(which would replace the contacts too) only to have the problem reoccur. You are partially correct. The click is the solenoid moving. However since the ignition switch can't provide it with enough amps, it doesn't pull closed hard enough to make a good contact. Espescially since there is some carbon on the contacts. However there will always be some carbon on the contacts, even new ones after only a few uses. Replacing the starter or the contacts will only work temporarily. The point is that if the solenoid can be supplied with enough Amps, the contacts inside will conduct fine, they just have to be drawn tightly toghether. If the available current is insuffiecent, the electromagnet will not pull the contacts hard enough.

+ 1million You have several dozen long steep climbs ahead of you on this trip. And it gets hot out in the flats of Montana. Carry extra belts Carry plenty of coolant. Carry extra radiator hoses. Also, carry at least a foot of 1/4 diameter coolant hose for the little coolant hoses that warm the base of the carb, and also 2 feet of 5/8th heater hose. Don;t forget a few clamps of each size in case the old ones are boogered. Watch you're temp gauge like a hawk. Murphy would say this gives you the best chances of not having to use any of this stuff. You'll be fine either way. Connies right about these cars loving the roadtrips. It'll be good for the car. Enjoy the trip. Watch for the incredile view down the canyon just after you crest *Lookout Pass*

I have installed pushbuttons in cars that had previously been set up with a relay. They way I install them, with a piggyback on the solenoid connector, and the original signal wire still in parallel, you CAN start the car with the key. Most of us have know that this problem is very intermittent, and most of the time you're car starts fine. Hmmm... Seems to me pushbutton start is all the rage in all the new vehichles nowadays...... And NOT STARTING, will lower the value a whole lot more than the switch..... LOL But seriously, I install high amp rated, good looking pushbuttons. I place somewhat discreetly, but in easy reach of where you're hand is at the ignition switch. Definatley not hokey or "improper" or "low quality". Homey don't play that. Properly fused, routed, connected, mounted, etc., It is the most dependable and permanent solution. I do agree with you completely GD that proper fusing and design of the circuit, and connections are all critically important. But if someone can't properly install a pushbutton, then the increased complexity and # of connections involved in wiring a relay is a recipe for disaster. As far as resale, C'mon.......??? Really???? You yourself are one of the biggest bashers of EA82 Loyales in general tell people to not spend more than $300 bucks on one. At that price, the pushbutton doesn't hurt. Especially considering it gives a peace of mind to the new owner that they won't have to worry about fixing this chronic asian car ignition switch problems themselves.

Last time I checked, new ignition switch is was around a $100 at the dealer.

Stand at the front of the car and look straight, directly down at the Throttle body. Behind the throttle bore, at the rear left corner is a screw head in a recessed hole. A bit smaller than a dime in diameter. Right next to the Fast Idle Solenoid. IIRC screwing it in lowers the idle. ****Do NOT mess with the painted stopper screw on the throttle shaft.**** It is set at the factory. If adjusted the throttle plate will either close too far or not far enough. The ECU needs that closed throttle position to be a excactly right to regulate the idle. *note, If you're problem is a fast high idle(warming up idle), the fast idle adjustment screw is on the rear of the throttle body base just under the fast idle solenoid. It is adjusted from the *horizontal*, so you have to look for it from the rear, and probably use a stubby screwdriver.

How are you going to manage the camber with that setup? Looks like the top of the knuckle is pushed outward quite a bit. How will you keep it from stretching the axle?

Well, what I'm seeing in the pictures are remnants of the Feedback Carb system. The Device mounted to the passenger side strut with 2 vac hoses, and the extra hose out of the reed valve by the passenger exhaust. Both of those things are from the Feedback set-up. There is supposed to be a pressure sensor mounted to that bracket on the strut as well. But the intake and carb appear to be normal Non-feedback setup. So it seems this was a feedback car swapped to non feedback. Which is good. I typed this and then in examining the pictures more it appears that those blue *T* fittings are Subaru, and look like they've been there a while. It doesn't match any of the Carb setups for any year or version I've seen, but I can't say for sure that it's not supposed to be that way. However the 2 hoses from that device I mentioned should not be T-d into the lines like that. Get rid of that. unhook those hoses and chuck them and that device they are hooked to. They are *T*-d into the Slow and Main air bleeds for the carb. Could be a big part of the idle issue. Can you look at the tag under the hood? It should have a small vacuum diagrahm, and some writing. Should say something like "this vehichle conforms to applicable standards for emmissions for all ____ (year) vehicles for sale in ______(Cali or US)" A picture of that tag would be great, to tell us if this car was originally feedback or not. Also look under the steering column, is there a Gold colored 4"x6"x1" box mounted to the bottom of the column?? If so this was a feedback car. edit again. I do not think you have the feedback set-up. The device is the altitude compensator. It should be there. I've never seen one on a non Feedback set-up. The *extra* green hose at eh ASV should make a *U* bend, and connect to the back of the reed valve directly below it. I'd replace it with Emisions hose instead of the heater hose on t now. So, on to tackling the emmisions. I would change you're plugs out with NGK plugs only. Also, using the timing light, you can observe the advance curve of the disty. I had problems passing emissions caused by the mechanical advance weights in the base of the disty being stuck. Hook u the light, disconnect and plug the vac advance. Now rev the engine, and watch the timing advance and then back off and watch it retard. The advance and retard should be smooth and should match the rpms. If the advance takes too long, or the the timing stays advanced even after the RPMs are dropped, then the weights are sticky. Spraying lubricant down into the base might help, but fully disassembling the disty and cleaning and greasing the weights is the best options.

Let me guess, all you got was a *click* when you turned the key?? You're contacts in the ignition switch are getting worn. It can not conduct enough amps to engage the solenoid. I myself have wired at least a dozen pushbuttons for starting in Gls and Loyales not to mention Hondas, Mazdas, and Toyotas. Some people wire relays. But that still relies on the ignition switch which will eventually fail. You could wire a relay activated by a pushbutton, but that is overkill. Just run a fused 14g or 12g wire from a good 12v source to a pushbutton and out to the starter solenoid. Use a piggyback connector on the end that hooks to the solenoid so the original wire can be maintained. That way you use the button only when the key fails. You can wire it *hot all times*, or *hot in run*. I preffer at all imes so I can use it to crank the engine for compression testing or any other reason without having to have the key or having power to the coil, ECU, etc. Search *pushbutton Starter* and you'll find it's all been discussed before.