Gloyale

Did you check it for voltage with the key in *acc* or *on*? Cigarette socket won't have voltage with key off in factory arrangement.

That is my guess.

Yeah, you're using the wrong marks. Don't use the numbered TDC scale. Rotate the eninge clockwise another 90 degrees and you will see three lines Looks like this: l l l Use the center of those 3 lines as the mark.

Why???? Because of the bolt pattern? 4 of the 8 holes line up with the old 4 bolt engines and vice-versa 92 Loyale, The real question is, does htis trans use a cable or hydraulicly activated clutch. I think that is the thing that would limit the applications.

90-94 are indeed cable driven sensors in the cluster.

I have problems believing that too. More in depth work taking ohms readings is involved to find that out. They just scanned codes??? C'mon:rolleyes: However, if the harness that goes inside the trans to the solenoids and sensors truely needs replaced it will be expensive. The rear transfer extension and the pan have to come off the trans, the valve body has to be removed, and then all the sensors unplugged. THEN The harness can be fed back out through the opening in the case. I say get codes scanned and a diagnosis at another dealer.

It is excactly the same casting, without the extra coolant line installed. Turbo could be adapted to Non-Turbo or vice-verse. The other type is the "Spyder" intakes that came on the XT MPFI engines. Spyder intake is alot more like an EJ intake with curved runners and a side mounted Throttle body.

Are the black *read* connectors in the same area also plugged in? If they are hooked up, along with the green *test* connectors the ECU will be in "clear memory mode" in which case, a solid CEL would indicate a persistant code, unable to clear. Try again, making sure the car is warm first. Make sure the black test connectors are unplugged. Plug in just the greens Key on/eng off = Flashing CEL/fuel pump Start engine, CEL should go out but eventually flash. At any rate, now read the LED light on the ECU for codes.

Wait until the engine is cold. You pulled the plug while it was hot, then the exposed threaded hole cooled off quickly, shinking. Never ever pull sparkplugs from a hot aluminum engine.

Both speed sensors are external. VSS1 bolted into rear of trans, VSS2 is screwed into the front passenger side of the trans. The rear ones wiring is wrapped up with the other wiring for the trans. It would require stripping wrapping off but it should be replacble without removing the trans or the entire harness(which goes through the trans case and inside it PITA) The dealer is going to want a bunch of money to monkey with it. Replacing it yourself would be WAAAY cheaper. The front one is an easy 5 minute swap, old one screws out, new one in. Did they specify which one???

The thing that bothers me about this is where are the wires for the MAF, ,pressure sensor, and solenoid???? They should be part of the body harness. Swapping engines should not affect those wires? Where are they? I don't think getting an intake harness will solve anything cause the MAF wires are not part of the intake harness. You really need to look at all the body harness in that area and see if you can find where they chopped the harness off.

Green plugs under the ECU. Connect them and you should here the fuel pump cycle with the key *on*/ eng off. Check engine light should flash in time with the fuel pump. Once you turn the engine on the light will go out until: Engine is warm rev over 2000 rpms for 40 seconds drive over 2 mph. After that the check engine light will either come on steady (code present) or start blinking (all good)

CXheck out this first Gen brat. Looks heavily reinforced but DAMMMMMMMMMMNN......!!! http://youtube.com/watch?v=hmQVTj2D8Rw&feature=related

Turbos More EA82 turbos produced = great # of posts about blown headgaskets.

I believe it grounds to the chassis where the power window unit is bolted down. Under passenger seat. Under carpet.

That is a VERY speculative and questionable statement. The one and only thing "less" reliable is the timing belts, which are easily replaced on the road. I don't know why so many people are affraid of a strip of rubber??? I've never had one break other than on newly acquired vehicles before i had a chance to replace them. Replace the belts at proper intervals and there is nothing unreliable about them in my opinion.

5 lug swap is WAAAAAAY more work. Six lug modification just requires drilling 16 holes. Easy with a Drill press.

B2200 wheels have a perfect offset for Soobs. So do early Isuzu Trooper wheels.

I drove myself crazy, in Wisconsin with a rusty Wisco car, replacing switches and disassembling them to clean contacts. To no Avail. When I pulled the carpet and repaired that crimp splice, they all worked again. I would highly advise starting by checking that red wire under the carpet, espescially if you're carpet gets wet. The power wire for the drivers window is the straight through wire at the junction, the other 3 are crimped to it. That is probably why it works, but the other 3 don't. The other 3 rely on a good connection at the crimp, which they probably aren't getting. Doesn't it just seems to odd that ALL 3 other windows won't roll UP? I think that connection has so much corroision, that it can't conduct the higher amperage needed to roll the windows up as opposed to down.

At $4.00 a Gallon, yeah it does.

Another thing to check, espescially in salt laden Wisconsin, is the crimp junction for all the power wires for the windows. Remove the passenger seat, the door sill trim, and the center console. now pull up the carpet on the passenger side and find the bundle of wires running under it to the PW unit(bolted under seat) there will be a large red wire, that splits at a crimp junction. IIRC the splice is right in the middle of the section that sits on the floor right under the passenger feet. Right were feet deposit melting snow mixed with salt soak the carpet. Check that splice for corrosion and repair. It's the first place I start when I encounter one or more windows not working, even before the switch contacts.

Remember the whole lowered minitruck fad???? There are TONS of aftermarket option for alloys in 6 lug. And like I sadi. Mazda b2200 pickups had at least 3 different kinds of sweet alloy wheels. heres just one aftermarket http://slammedb22.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/red_mazda_up_in_front.jpg

GL for aerodynamics on highway. DL for Offroad....By far. Replace the whole light when you smash it.

Are they numbered 1,2,3,4? I recently had a 2000 Outback, same hesitation crap. (except we were getting cylinder misfire codes) Replaced wires with "prestolite" brand, OE replacements.( I couldn't ge thte cheap owner to spring for actual OEM, Which might be made by prestolite actually) Problem solved. If they are blue, and say "MAX PROTECTION" on the side. Made by belden, then I would highly suspect them. Those are the wires I just took off that Outback. They seems to be a popular, cheap, crappy brand.

I'd order a used driveline from a west coast wrecker. There won't be any rust. It will be a simple bolt in job, and should outlast the rest of the car.