Gloyale

Does you're cover still have it's rubber gaskets? Is the cover warped? If you have to (or want to) you can run it with no T-belt covers. Many many people do it. I don't, but I spend too much time in deep snow and mud, and I just hate taking off stuff that was meant to be there. But in a case like this, if you can't find a new cover, you can go no cover if you have to.

Take it off, clean the crap out of it with dish soap or a good degreaser. Then wrap it with electrical tape. Good quality electrical tape so it really sticks and get it really tight. I've had good luck *repairing* a few this way.

even without A driveshaft back there, the rear Trans mounts could be bad or loose, and shifting around making noise. But good catch, I laughed hard.

D check is done by connecting the green, single pole connectors under the dash. Then turn the key to on, press gas fully, then release to half and hold there for a moment. During this time the CEL will be flashing, and you should hear the fuel pump cycling with the flashing. Now start the car. Rev it over 2000 for 40 seconds. The light should go off upon starting, but then come on and blink if everything is OK. If there is a code the CEL will come on solid. If so, then look at the LED on the CPU and read the codes. D- check will only show current problems, so if you have an intremittent issue, or something that only happens while driving it may not come up at idle in D check You may find that *read* mode will help you more in this case . It tells you what codes have been tripped in the past. It is accessed by connecting the Black connectors under the dash. Turn the key to on, and look at the LED. it will show you codes that were set in the past. To clear the codes, plug in both connectors(green and black) and do the same full throttle/half throttle/start/run 40secs over 2000. This will clear codes and give you a fresh slate.

If it was sold new at high altitude, it WAS equipped and adjusted for it.

Are you kidding? They aren't rare or exotic at all. It's staple tool of professionals everywhere.

This is the best I can do. It's the diagrahm for an 86 but I am 99% sure that 85 is the same. Diagrahms can be hard to understand, but from you're work on that 2.7, I know you are capable. It's not photos, but it should tell you everything you need to know. Also, if you have or are going to replace Vacuum lines, there is something you need to know. Inside some of the line, there are small metal plugs. Labeled as *orifice* on the diagrahms. They have small holes in them and restrict the amount of vacuum to certain parts of the system. Make sure you remove them from the old hoses, and push them up inside the new hose before installing.

Purring Idle does not mean the correct mixture. It could be way lean and still idle great. Without an exhaust gas test there is no way to tel if you have a good mixture. It's not that we want to tell you what to do with you're own car. But don't fool yourself into thinking that "it sounds good" means that you have it right. Every piece of literature about Carbed Subarus warns in big black letters NOT to adjust the screw, espescially without tools to measure the exhaust mixture. I suppose you could measure the mixture by fitting an O2 sensor, and measure the voltage produced, then compare it to the specs for an SPFI or MPFI cars *ideal* voltage range. If you do end up with a lean mixture watch you're temp, and pray for you're pistons.

Note about comments in red: EA81T and Early EA82T(flapper Maf) use the 2 switch type, not a potentiometer. They are a much simpler design, easy to fix(you can open them up and clean the contacts). But they do not provide the precise capability of the newer Potentiometer style.

Uh... The knock sensor is mounted in the block? Does the Spider intake interfere with it's mounting? I don't get it.

This is similar to the way I do mine. But he forgot to mention that to separate the inner joint you have to remove a clip just inside the lip of the CV cup. It's hard to see from the grease, but run you're finger through a ball groove and you will feel it at the lip. It's about 3 1/2 in. in diameter. When you reinstall that clip, make sure not to leave the end gap in a groove, the clip must block all of the bearing grooves. I can't imagine trying to stretch the inner end of a CV boot over the entire joint.

Yeah, I guess it's the Dual port heads that have the holes opening directly into the water jacket. I'm not sure, but I think some of the head bolts may extend into the water jacket, allowing coolant to travel up in the same fashion.

Is the one at the JY a 87 Turbo Spider? Only 87 XT's where available with a Turbo Spider intake. After that 88+ the XT6 replaced the Turbo. The non turbo 4cyl XTs had Spider manifolds. But you would have to modify a few things to make a Non-Turbo Spider manifold work on a turbo. You'd need to add a coolant line for the turbo. And the TPS is different, but has the same outputs and function, just rotates opposite and has a differnt connector. Wiring modification is not too hard. There is a list of a few different parts need to do the swap other than the intake as well. Coolant return line from heater core to water pump Auxiullary air valve *dogbone* and bracket from trans possibly Alternator and A/C condensor bracket? Turbo to Throttle body tube(if donor is turbo)

Good call. Very possible

I'd check the hoses fro the heater core too. They are nearly the highest point in the system. When they leak it is ussually as steam not liquid, so you won't see any puddles or wettness. rub you're finger along the underside of teh hose and the clamp, ussually if it's been steaming there will be just a drop or so right there.

how long did it sit before you installed it and and how was it stored? Perhaps the walls and rings corroded. Then when you started running it the rust and scale acted as an abrassive to scour the cylinder walls. Compression test should tell you. Sure it's not coolant smoke? from a cracked exhaust port or bad HG?

I know OBD II Nissans still maintained a manual way of outputting codes, like was on there earlier style(in Nissan it's a screw on the side of ECU turned instead of connectors) I was not sure if Subaru had left that capability in there OBD II cars. Even so, the code is still stored. The CEL is turned off after a few cycles with no trouble. But the code stays stored for a long time, even after the CEL is off. That is why reading the historic(stored) codes is an excellent tool for diagnosing connection issues(since they are so intermitent) Once you read that code, by whatever means, you should have no problem fixing it.

As far as gearboxes, all I can attest is that I have 2 4eats(93 Legacy,89 GL Turbo "fulltime") with 300k and 240k respectively) Both work great still. Espescially the one with 300k. It plows through snow here in the Wisconsin winter with ease. No problem with the capablilities of the AWD at all. The 230k mile one is in the older car, with less aggressive torque split. It takes a bit of spinning the front tires before the backs get good power. But drives fine. This may be a dumb question, but there in the UK do you measure distance in Miles or Kilometers?

Does the block look damageds at all? You could possibly reuse the block with a new set of pistons(high compresion?)

Not really, because the bolt holes are open at the bottom. They go straight through into the coolant passage(at least the long *inner* ones) The gasket can't do anything about that. Water sneaks up past the threads, and into in the intake the hole the bolt goes through. That's why those long bolts are crusty up to the top. A dab of RTV on the threads of the bolt will keep coolant from traveling up the bolt and into that bolt hole. The bottom few threads will still contact water, but the water won't be able to get all the way up the bolt, which is what causes all the problems.

No, but If you've got a MT with Digidash, the digidash will beep an alarm at you when you hit 6000 rpms as a warning.

Okay I got that line removed and ready to ship. Do you still need it? I;'m assuming so, but I wasn't sure if maybe you went to the JY over the weekend or something.

They where redesigned in 92 mildly(modified PCV and intake), and then in 95 more extensively(Moly coated pistons, one piece main bearing cap/web, ). And they moved the production to another factory. So perhaps the ones you've seen are from the newer production line

I'd be more than happy to take that stuff off you're hands. How much for shipping to 97330? Actually Vancouver is not far from Corvallis, I could pic that stuff up in about 2 weeks when I get back out there.