Gloyale

Set the cams at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock with the crank positioned on the center of the 3 lines(seperate from the degree lines) Once the belts are on, if they are correct, the Cams will be like you said at 10:30 and 4:30 (45 degrees from straight up and down) When the engine is rotated to crank at 0 TDC Plug in the green connector under dash and then set timing with a timing light to 20 BTC

The bracket for them is on the dash. So when installed they are in the dash. But I think that the harness for them is actually part of the main harness. Not the wiring that stays in the dash when you pull it. It may have got left in the car.

Hey, If you indeed find it's a bad relay, I've got dozens. Hopefully you grabbed some out of that Coupe though.

LH Headlight relay supplies the power for fuse 6, which is the lighting system fuse. LH relay being dead would result in both of the symptoms he's experiencing (no tail lights, dim left headlight)

If you are st on just replacing parts, then you need to get parts form a matching axle. If you are going to get a replacement axle, then I would try to get one of the beefier ones(look it up as a 9x loyale 4wd)

No the 23/25 spline difference is at the Trans/DOJ end. Just don't get parts for a Turbo car, and you'll be fine. You have 23 spline. There are a total of 3 different joints used for these axles though. Look at you're current shafts. In the middle, exposed portion of the axleshaft, there should be *pads* or ridges. These identify which axle type you have. Make sure you get you're parts from a matching axle. 1 pad= 82-AC, used in Carbed 2wd cars(23 spline, will fit but is the smallest weakest joint) 2 pad= 87-AC, used in 2wd FI, and 4wd Carbed(23 spline, will fit, but also is a smaller joint but with cooling grooves on DOJ housing) 3 pads= 95-AC, used in 4wd FI, and all turbos(the 95-AC axle is available in both 23 and 25 spline. 23 spline for all non-turbo 4wd, and 2wd 3AT Turbo. 25 for all other Turbo) I'd try to get the 3 padded 95-AC axle. Just make sure you get it form a non turbo, or 3spd turbo car, with 23 splines.

I swear by the crimp tool. Although I have used regular clamps and even zipties before in emergencies. Only problem with hose clamps is A: clearance- On the inner joint it's no problem, but on the outer joint there is no clearance for the screw portion of the clamp, it will hit the knuckle as it spins. B: Balance- Hose clamps have a big extra mass on one side(the screw), not to big a deal but unbalanced is unbalanced. Not the best for drivetrain.

Fuse 6 and 7 are supplied 12v by the LH relay. Fuse 8 is powred by the RH relay. Turn the key on, Headlights on, and test for 12v at all those fuses. If either have no voltage to either side of the fuse, then the corresponding relay is bad. From what you are describing, I think you're LH relay is bad.

Sounds to me like the dimmer switch assembly. Does messing with it while the lights are on affect them? Dim headlight on one side can be from a bad fuse or relay. The parking light switch should turn on you're tail lights. The relays for the headlights are up under the dash, in the group of 4 relays left of the steering column. LH has a green connector B BR B BW RH is black connector right next to LH B BY B BW

I keep a few(dozen) bycycle shifter cables, long ones for the rear derailuer. I've used theem to replace throttle cables and even a clutch cable in an emergency. I fished out the old cable, and threaded the new cable through the housing. I used a nut and bolt an two washers to make a clamp onto the cable to use as a stopper at the cable ends. For the clutch cable 3 bicycle cables bundled fit through well and was strong enough to last for the last 200 miles of a trip once. I used to wrench on bikes and have spools of that cable. Lucky me

Looks decent. Good price. I'd probably buy that just for the pulleys adn get a Subaru belt. I've seen issues with marks on aftermarket belts being wrong.

I hope you put a fuse on that wire from the battery. You really should have run it out of that extra terminal on the fusible link box.

You're Carbed version also incorporates the Air Suction Valve/anti afterburn system into the equation. The 1/4 inch tube that goes into the aircleaner is part of the ASV system. It allows for fresh air to be introduced to the exhaust pipe when the pressure inside the exhaust goes negative. This helps prevent backfiring. It can all be removed though if you like. Plug the holes in the head where the ASV pipes attach. remove the ASV hoses and just plumb the 2 valve cover tubes to the Pcv.

Good point. But the problem most often complained of is ussually Torque Bind. Added stress and weight would contribute to wear on the drive members, forward clutches, and brakeband. But not nessesarily much added stress to the transfer clutch. It really only loads and wears during cornering, and a 3200 lb vehichle can generate just as much as a 4000 lb one, when you're talking torque bind.

You just answered you're own questions. Wait, was there even a question?

My 89 Gl Turbo hah an engine fire just prior to me getting it. I think the wastegate failed and the Turbo got insanely hot. Ignited the CV boot and all the grease slung all over the Cat by the CV boot. Then burned up the turbo coolant tubes, the Maf and wiring, the the Fuel injectors, The throttlebody and all engine harness and hoses. All the transmission wiring was burned, the whole thing was a mess and the top end(heads)of the motor where toast. Luckily I had all the parts needed on hand to fix it.

Are you getting any trouble codes. make sure the boot from MAF to turbo has no leaks. Also will it run with the test connectors hooked up? Really try adjusting the idle just a tad with the idle screw.

Cool! Identical to mine. 'cept I've got 240,000 miles I've been quite happy with mine. It's the Suby I always wanted. But...........Turbo Subies are temptermental. Do a compression check and make sure you get at least 110 psi in each cylinder. Second look for any signs of that it's burning coolant. If that's all good, then not a bad buy at $400, espescially in you're area At 167,000 I would think headgaskets are in you're future. Really you should do them premptively. Also replace the radiator, unless it's been done already, likely it needs it. And just generally be ready to go though ALL of the coolant lines, and oil lines for the turbo. Replace all the Vacuum hoses too. Inspect the MAF to Turbo boot for leaks. I have a feeling if you get it in good tune you'll find it more powerful. My 4EAT shifted pretty rough when I first got it, it's better now after a few drain + fills. I found that the TCU didn't give fast enough power to the rear end(lot's of slip first, then wham!) So I added a Solenoid C *Lock* switch. Works great! I payed $500 for mine. And that was not running at the time.

Pulling the window off it's track is not nessecary. You only need to unbolt the crank assembly and slide it out. Just support the window and lower it carefully down, in it's track as you unbolt the crank mechanism. once the mechanism is loose inside the door you may have to adjust it to manuever it out of the door. You can always push the window back up it's track a bit to get it out of the way for clearance. It's tempered glass, it's pretty tough, just don't let it drop hard to the bottom.

I think the earlier ones use a less aggressive Torque split pattern under normal driving. It's not physical differences in the transmission, but rather differences in the TCU's that control them. All of the EA/ER series 4EATs I've driven seem to very little torque applied to the rear end until considerable slipping occurs. This means less day to day wear on the transfer clutch.

That's one way to eliminate positive camber. For real though, glad you're not hurt. Looks like definatley the radius rod and control arm are bent. Also check the condition of the upper strut mount and the strut really well. Look for any signs that the unibody has bent at the strut tops and at the radius rod attachment points. If you are suspect, take measurements diagonally between Rear X-member mounts and radius plate in front. Make sure it measures the same distance diagonally across the box.

The valves and springs are the same for all MPFI heads.(IIRC, All EA82 heads) It has an extra oil pipe? passenger side rear of head near bottom? elbowing up? That would be the turbo oil return/drain pipe. Was it just capped off? I wonder If Fuji would have done that from the factory to use up old stock? What year/model car is it? Please don't pitch it. You've got a PM from me

OK. I think the way you are trying to test this is more trouble than troubleshooting. If this were a Non turbo, fuel injected car, removing the tube from the throttle body would make it die. This is because no air would be pulled through the MAF, seeing zero air, it would give little or no fuel. In you're case with the turbo, the car is only running because the Turbo is pulling in air through the MAF as it is driven by the exhaust. The MAF sees air passing through and meters fuel for that. But this is a different amount of air than is actually being sucked down the throttle body by engine vacuum. So of course it will never run normal in this manner. Also in this case since you have the outlet of the turbo open to atmosphere, it never pressurises. So you won't have any boost to build up and activate the wastegate. I'm not sure but that could be a bad situation for the turbo. It does explain why there is no boost light. I would hook it all back up, and then try to troubleshoot.

I had one of these fail on me. Turn the key, no warning lights at all. Start it like that and it would run for ten minutes before the digidash started dieing. But if I whacked it with a wrench til the dash light came on before starting, it would charge and work fine. Eventually I replaced it. But I won't buy a Bosch anything again.