Gloyale

Access is probably better overall for EA81. I really only know EA82 stuff. Box O'Harness makes everything easy!

Make sure the thermoswitch and the radiator fan are both plugged in. Without fans the car won't cool very well. Check the Hoses and clamps going to the heater core(they from the drivers side, back of the engine, over the starter, and into the cabin) Check the lower radiator hose and clamp as well. Both would have had to be unclamped for the engine to come out for a clutch job. Although I don't know if a shop would pull the engine, or just drop the tranny in the conventional RWD style. But I guess since it's causes overheating and not Front end issues we'll assume they took out the engine:lol: Another option is maybe they took it for a test drive when they were done!!! Ever see Ferris Buellers Day Off? And what the Parking guys did with the Ferrari?

No need to try this. That *tube* is taped tightly and full of other wires. It would be hard to try to stuff any new wire through it. Even if you could get to the open end of it but you can't, it goes up inside the pillar about 4 inches and then goes through a hole in the door jamb and across the gap to the door. Youd have to unplug everything in the door, and stuff the whole harness back out of the pillar to be able to feed wire through it. See the stuff about the pink connectors in my above post.

Just tucked up well under the dash with zip ties. pull the 2 small kick panels(1 at each side) Locate the bunch of connector that go into the body and through the pillar and into the door, and find the small 2 pin connector with a white and a blue wire on the door harness side. IIRC Always a pink connector. Just put matching spade connector(or scavenge a matching connector out of "Box O'Harness") onto you're new speaker wire and plug it in there. W = Pos, Blue = Neg. Since the stock wireing is unplugged form the front speakers, there is no need to alter stock wiring. Should you want to go back to stock(?), you can plug the stock wiring back in at the pink connector. Edit: This is for EA82 with speakers in door. I imagine the same thing can be done with the EA81 system W/ in dash speaker. Just nevermind the pink connector stuff. Just wire directly to speaker. Or do they have a pigtailed connector too?

No need to run new speaker wire to all 4 speakers. I run new wire for the fronts, as far as the doorjamb. Then I fit connectors to plug into the stock speaker wires for each front door. I leave the rest of the wiring intact, with the stock wires still driving the rear speakers. This way I only need 2 short speaker wires and I don't have to pull up any door trim or panels.

That's the most optioned out DL I've ever seen! Roof rack, oval wheels, D/R and AC?! It's got a passenger side door mirror! Does it have split fold down rear seat? Don't even tell me it has power windows. That's just about the perfect Suby.

I have to disagree with the notion that having the heads welded is not worth it. It seems to me as these cars get older, that is the only real option. I;m saving all my EA82 heads to have welded(gonna do it myself once I'm better with aluminum) Seems like all the turbo heads crack, and no new ones are being made. If we throw away all the cracked ones there will be non left. It cost me $60 to have an exhaust crack welded. I got a deal, but even an expensive shop will not charge more than $100. New heads are basically non-existant anymore (SOA showed having about 25-30 in the whole US, and that was 6 months ago) And are about $400 a piece. Reman heads are at least $250 a piece, and possibly haven't been fixed and are ready to crack right on install. Used heads would be pointless to install unless you happen to find uncracked gen 3 heads(unlikely, and some gen 3's crack anyhow) $100-$200 bucks for cleaning, welding, and resurfacing from a machine shop is cheaper and you then know for sure what you've got. The welder who did mine actually thickened the wall in that area so it's less likely to crack again.

I doubt that you're turbo has anything to do with it. It would have to totally crack it's casting to leak coolant internally. Turbos will sometimes leak oil around the bearings, but I've never seen one leaking coolant into the intake. My bet is on cracks in the exhaust port. Sorry to say, but it seems most of these Turbo cars develop those cracks. Remove the exhaust from the heads, and look for cracks in the exhaust port. It is possible though that you have an external coolant leak. Check all you're hoses, espescially the ones to the heater core. They are at the top of the system, and like to "steam" out coolant rather than actually leak liquid. The steam coming out that close to the cabin air intake often results in Antifreeze smell inside the car.

What you are referring to is actually the Ignition switch, not a relay. Only problem is that even with access to the switch to turn on the car, you still can't drive it. The steering colunm lockout is not deactivated unless the ignition cylinder itself turned. If you want to defeat that you have to remove the lock cylinder. It has to be turned to the on position, then you can press the little pin on the side in and the cylinder will slide out. You might be able to get a used cylinder and key form a junkyard, or a new one from subaru. Problem is you will have to get it turned somehow before you can remove it. Do you have any Subaru keys? Friends with them? Nissan Keys? The reason I ask is that often with a little wiggling and turning, you can get almost any Old suby key to work on any suby. The older and more worn the key, the better. If you can get it turned once, you can get it out(via pressing the little set pin once turned), and replace it. You know though, it might be easier to just remove the lock cylinder from the door. Take it in to a good locksmith and they can make a new key for it.

Try bypassing the switch by jumpering the solenoid. If it starts, you have the classic ignition switch problem. Poor contact in the ignition switch won't let enough amparage pass through to activate the solenoid. Simple solution is to add a pushbutton for starting. A more elaborate solution is to install a relay that is signaled by the ignition switch then sending power to the starter. Search "ignition switch" and "pushbutton"

You just need to re-seal that motor. Valve cover gaskets, Cam seals, Front main, and the 3 seals for the Oil Pump. they are the Oil pump shaft seal(skirt seal/behind the pulley), oil pump body O-ring(big round O-ring), and Oil pump gasket ("Mickey mouse"). This is all easy to do when you remove the timing belts so recommend replacing them when you do the seals. Inspect and possibly replace the timing belt tensioners and idler pulley. You might want to replace the pan gasket, but it's a bit more of a PITA. I would tighten all the bolts and reseal all the other stuff and then see if you need to replace the pan gasket. The $65 dollar timing belt and tensioner sets on EBAY are pretty well recommended. For the rest of the seals, I personally would find the cheapest Headgasket kit on ebay I could (like $30) It will have all the rubber valve cover gaskets(including the for the timing cover) and also all of the Cam seals, and Front main seal(sometimes). Some sets even have the Oil pump seals. Best to get the Oil pump set from the dealer though.(about 40-50 bucks) At any rate buying the cheap HG kit will get you more than what you'd spend on the vavle cover gaskets alone form Subaru or parts store. Plus then you have extra exhaust gaskets, throttle body gasket, Valve stem seals, EGR, intake, and Head gaskets(the later two are questionable to use non OE Subaru)

That website lists the same bearing set for Turbo and Non-Turbo. I really think it's a case of 2 different orignial parts being superceded by a single part. Improvements in Bearing manufacturing and materials(not to mention synthetic oil) mean that any new set of EA82 Main bearings will stand up fine to 110 HP. (less than a new Corrolla, do you think they have fancy special bearings?)

Codes 11, 12 and 13 can be randomly triggered by an engine that stalls. These codes seem to pop up often when doing diagnosis on stalling cars, often not having anything to do with the problem. My theory is that as the car is running(or trying to run), everything is normal, but then the car stalls(because of fuel or vac leaks, bad coil, missing rotor screw, or whatever) The ECU is waiting for that next pulse form the CAS, but it never comes, and the car doesn't know it's actually stalled yet. This triggers ussually code 11 but sometimes 13 as well Code 12 is actually a starter switch code, but I think it can be triggered in a similar fashion when you try to start a car that doesn't want to run. It catches a little bit, sputtering and almost catching, but you still have to keep the key turned or else it just dies(while you sit there pumping the pedal going "C'mon... C'mon"). During that time the engine is both *running* and being cranked, triggering the code.(starter switch in continuosly on position) I think the code also can be triggered by simply holding the key in start for longer than needed to start the car. I ussually Ignore 11 and 13 unless I have some other reason to suspect a disty problem. I always ignore code 12. EDIT: I just re-realized this is an EJ we're talking about so I don't know if this would really apply. I was refering to the codes of an EA82)

Salt lake has very strict codes about what you can and can't do and at what times. I doubt his complaint would fall on sympathetic ears.

Seems like you're saying that it leaks oil, not burns it. My bet is a leaky pan, front main, camshafts seal, oil pump shaft seal, or any combination. I would save up for all the seals and a timing belt set and do the whole front of the motor. Tighten all the oil pan bolts(you can get the back row ones either with a long Phillips through the holes in the x-member or just use a 10mm socket with swivel and extension) You may have some burning of the oil, but if it was really burning that much you'd have bad smoke and terrible performance. Code 34 is the Purge Control Solenoid, not the PCV valve.

2 words: Worn Struts

I went out to the shop and compared the bearings form the Turbo and N/A blocks. It does seem that there is a slight difference in the composition of the base Material. The bearing surfaces both had the same Aluminum Alloy look to them. The NA ones appear to be all one piece, The turbo ones have a face and a backing. The face appears to be the same alumninum, but the base is of a slightly more bronze appearing metal. At any rate they are excactly the same in size and fit. Unless you are going to be adding horsepower to the motor, I think they could handle the 20 hp difference. Remember Turbo and Non-turbos used different types of Headgaskets originally? Subaru now specs the same Head gasket for either, superceding original part #s. Likely the same in this case. I found no differences between the cranks, no marks or distinct features. Same size journals to the thousands. Connecting Rods are the same. Identical markings and Journals, and weights(relatively)

And 6 Cyl Legacies, SVX, and now Tribeca, say H-6. Some JDM motors say "boxer". It's all the same.

Flat, boxer, horizontally opposed, pancake. All just terms for engines with 2 cylinder banks in the same plane and a crank between them.(although *pancake* ussually reffers to a specific model of VW flat-4)

They are identical to NA rods. There is no difference. I'm sure the NA bearings can handle the extra 20 HP of the turbo motor. I'd like to know where you even get the info that they are a different bearing? Comparing them side by side, I can find no difference at all. They appear to be made of the same material. As long as the journal dimensions are the same, I don't know why there would be any difference at the crank. Remember, just cause subaru used a different part #, doesn't mean there is a difference between the parts. Different # were assigned to parts for each model in large part to make inventory management for the factory easier. (10,000 XTs this months, so 10,000 of part # so n so. 20,000 GLs, so 20000 of part # such n such. Even though they are the same part)

No they don't need to be pressed. It's a simple replacement. You will need some kind of wedge, to drive in between the tabs of the clamped portion holding ball joint into the knuckle. Don't pry too hard on those tabs though, the casting can be cracked if you pry it too far open.

As far as I can tell, from specs and from experience tearing into them, there is no difference in bearings at all. All journals are the same size, connecting rods and wrist pins are the same. Buy the NA stuff. It's the same.

Doesn't really happen to cars outside the rust belt. My 89 from Oregonb has no rust whatso ever, anywhere. And at least Subvaru ran most of the line inside the body so it's not dragging through the snow. Erik, I would pull up the seats and trim, and run new line from the master cylider back. Kindof a PITA. But making a proper bubble flare is nearly impossible. The tool autozone rents won't do it, it's not capable of bubble flares. You'd only get a simple flare, which may seal for a while, but could blow out.

I can't find a spec for what the pump actually outputs. But the regulated pressure is definately not the same. 20-24 psi for SPFI, 34 PSI for MPFI. MPFI system also has an extra purge line. EJ22 Regulates to 36.3 psi. Again, are we sure that an SPFI pump will provide 36.3psi for an EJ? I thought that an upgraded pump was nessecary part of an EJ swap?

Does that SPFI pump put out enough pressure to run the EJ???