Gloyale

Or oil pressure, voltage, and Tachometer. Ussually no split folding rear seat either. But I love the Quad headlight setup, way easier to replace if you get a rock chip, and brigter ussually too.

Not owners manuals. Factory service manuals. And they are the only real information you can trust for acurate, specific information about you're Subaru. Yeah 60 bucks is expensive for books, but soooooooo worth it. Best to get the right year FSM though. Espescially if you have an 85, 86, 87. After 88 almost everything is the same. (90 percent of stuff is the same anyhow, with main differences being fuel systems and wiring, chassis stuff is all the same.

I love DL's and I'm sorry if I offended you. This is a friendly board (mostly) and we are all a big family. (i've been on a nissan and a honda board lately and man, they are ruthless and nasty)

Not at all. Every machine is different, and you shouldn't assume anything, get info about it before you mess with it. Even with other cars, there are different types of Power steering fluid, don't you bother to find out which type you should use? Adding the wrong fluid is not good. You're pump will not be properly lubricated. Will probably work for quite a while, but sooner or later, it'll either leak or the pump will get worn out. I'd drain the system, and refill. Although if the fittings are rusty, maybe it's not worth it.

no way, Import carbs from the 80's suck, and are waaaayyy less reliable and more difficult.

Yup, there should be a sticky ron the cap that say's it, but it may be gone on you're car. But for sure, put the red stuff in there. Lot's of imports are this way, more and more now. (once again, Subaru was ahead of it's time) I think it is because in remote areas, ATF is more readily available than Power steering fluid.

I'd take that trade:grin: . I saw an XT6 driving around here the other day. I gave the driver one of these:headbang: , she just looked at me like I was crazy. She probably doesn't know how cool her car was, or reconize my 89 GL turbo as a Suby. Sad because that's on more six that will probably get junked next time it has a propblem:mad:

Valve cover gaskets are easy, straight forward. 4 10mm bolts passenger side and 5 drivers. the one in the rear of the drivers side is a pain, but 10mm gearwrench is you're friend for that one. It does not however have anything to do with the Cam seals, they are behind the timing belt covers. Alot of the oil on the pan may actually be coming from the front main and/or oil pump seals. The front main, Cam seals and oil pump seals require removing the timing belts, so better to wait until you have the money and time to replace all of it at once, belts included. Ussually a little snugging of the oil pan bolts will ussually stop any seapage from the pan. The back bolts are hard to get to, but it can be done with a swivel and a long extension for you're ratchet. If you want to actually replace the pan gasket, you do have to jack the motor up about 2-3 inches. No need to remove the engine, but you will have to unbolt the 2, 14mm nuts from the underside of the crossmember that secure the mounts. And also the *pitch stopper*, the dog bone looking thing that is under the spare tire, going from the firewall to the top of the motor(also 14mm bolt/nut) one more note, sometimes the Power steering resevior leaks and drips down the front, looking like a leaky front main. But the Power steering uses ATF, so look at the color to see if you're leak is red (ATF)or black(oil)

either it's got a really blown headgasket, or one of the freeze plugs in the head came out and drained the coolant into the block. Pull off the valve covers and take a look for a plug hole where the freeze plug should be.

There is a tiny bit of play in the tranny I've got here. That dfoesn't mean it's normal, but I'd say if there are no signs of fluid loss around the seal then you are fine. I think any trans with 100,000 plus miles will have some play.

Did you check the timing?

What about using 15x6, 6 lug Toyota, Nissan, etc. rims redrilled to 4 lug(or redrill you're hubs to 6). Then get some 50 series tires. Like a 205/50/15? 215/50/15?

You don't need to have a press. It can be done with common tools. Read Edrachs writeup.

I think the vibration may be related to you're CV. Otherwise it's probably a wheel bearing, or wheels out of balance. As far as the torque bind. You should have massive torque bind when in 4wd making tight turns, espescially if you are on pavement. That's a good sign the 4wd is working. Unlike the Fulltime AWD cars, you cannot use the 4wd on pavement. There is no slip mechanism at all in the center. You should have 4 matching size tires but as long as you only use the 4wd in snow, mud, or loose gravel, you need not worry too much about them being exactly the same treadwise. Try to keep them matched on each axle though, espescially the front. And don't use the 4wd on pavement!

From what I can tell from the FSM, The Ananlog dash sender passes a variable resistance to ground value to the gauge. (millivolt system) The Digidash sender actually sends variable Voltage to the dash, which is then converted to a digital pulse to be read by the dash. (5 volt sysem)

Then those weren't trip computers. Trip computers only came in cars with digital dahses. There is no way that it can work without the Digidash fuel sender in the tank, and the Analog dash wil not read from the digidash sender. Now if you're cars were Fuel injected, they would still have engine management computersor ECU. not the same thing.

Did they have digital dashs? The trip computer uses a different type of fuel gauge sender, shared with the digital dash. Something doesn't seem right here.

This guy is rediculous. The he said that not a single wire matched any other car for the ECU. That's simply not true. And besides, the ECU has nothing to do with the 4wd system. If anything the 2wd ECU's would have a more restrictive tune, 2wds are classified as cars, and have to meet those emisions standards. The 4wd models were technically *trucks* for the EPA's purposes, and had to meet lower emmisions standards. That fuel pump is rediculous too. It just looks like robot puke.

Classic symtoms of disconnected vacuum line. Follow the lines out of the canister behind the strut tower. One line should be connected to the intake manifold, supplying the vaccum. the other runs over across the engine bay, and into the cab, through the rubber boot near windshield wiper motor. If all that looks good(and not crimped anywhere) then look inside, up under the dash. Sometimes(espescially with a Manual trans) that line can get caught by you're feet and pulled out. Try to find the line coming through the firewall(rubber), and makesure it is still connected to the line that feds the dash controls(skinny black plastic). It's a jumble of wire up there, but it isn't too hard to find.

If you do not have a digital dash board, you do not have a trip computer. It would say*trip computer* on the bezel of your dash clock, and the black box next to the radio would have lots of buttons on the front that say things like *range, avg. spd, etc..* . So I think you may be looking at something else, although I can't think of any black boxes in that area. Is it maybe a piece of an added alarm or stereo sytem?

Just get the FSM for you're teeth. LOL

This makes no sense. There is nothing electrical at all involed with the PCV. It vents the crankcase. It's a 5 dollar oneway valve that screws into the intake. It has a big hose from the valve covers attached to it. Change it out. It's cheap and often helps idle, power, and milage. But it can't have anything to do with you're CEL. Do you mean EGR?

I have to disagree. If the axle is still in good shape, changing a boot is a good investment.(you keep getting use out of the old axle, rather than buy a reman one, which are ussually crappy and fail within a year.) If it's been torn for some time and a bunch of grit is in there, or if it's clicking than don't bother. But if no clicking or other signs of wear are present then changing the boot is an easy way to save money and extend the life of your investment. You don't have to remove the axle entirely to do the job. You can leave the hub and axle nut alone. you do however have to remove the inner cup off of the stub shaft. So you will have to use some method of gaining clearance for this. Either removing the pinch bolt and droping out the ball joint, or removing the swing arm pivot bolt and the sway bar bolt(see Edrachs write-up) Punch the roll pin out of the inner joint from the UNBEVELED side(it's a tappered hole and if you punch from the beveled side it will just get tighter and tighter) Now you should have room to slide the axle off the stub. Now cut away/pull back the old boot. On the inside lip of the cup there is a retainer ring in a groove that keeps the joint from sliding out of the cup. remove it and slide the cup off the end of the axle. once it's out, you'll see there is a snap ring holding the inner race to the axle shaft. remove it and slide off the inner race. Now you can slide the new boot on. clean the race and the inside of the cup of all old grease. now pack a bunch of new grease in the cup. Install the inner(and outer) race and snap ring back onto the axle shaft. slide it into the cup, and install the retainer ring in the lip. Now clamp the new boot on and reinstall the axle to the stub on the transmission. Reassemble whatever you took apart at the wheel to get the clearance.

Code 5 is a model designation(MT/49 State) If it's flashing that to you then it means you have no active trouble codes. I'm thinking you're problem may be you're neutral switch on the trans. If the ECU doesn't know the car is in neutral it will shut off fuel when it see's a fully closed throttle. It does this to save fuel while coasting, say down a big hill or something, where the moivement of the vehicle would keep the engine rpms up(in gear). And as soon as you open the throttle a bit a gain the fuel comes back. It is located on the drivers side, rear of transmission. Search "neutral switch" and you may get more info on it. I don't remember if it's supposed to close the circuit or open it to signal *neutral*. But if you find that out it will be easy to test. Just put it in Neutral and test for continuity across the poles of the switch.

Like a thuuuurrrerrrerrredd Gen, last with spare tire, over the engin-nii-nin