Gloyale

I missed this guys first post, and I had a few things to say about it. Firstly, welcome to you too:rolleyes: Second. Why not remove the pinch bolt or the brake hardware? I have found it to be the very easiest way. You yourself say you need to remove the outer hub to get the axle back in, so that means you have to remove the rotor, which means removing the Caliper and it's bracket(unless you unbolt the rotor from the hub which. If you think the pinch bolt is rusty and prone to break, they are nothing compared to the hub/rotor bolts) So since the brakes have to come off anyway. Then you're left with one pinch bolt and the spindle will swing free to allow the axle to slide out. Soak it with PB blaster first. Once the bolt is out, turn the wheel(spindle) all the way to the outside, drive a wedge in the gap, and then stand on the control arm. Sometimes tough, but I've never had a problem with dozens of them. He says you MAY have to remove the swaybar bolt(if you are removing swing arm bolt, which my method doesn't require), and he mentioned the need for washers or some other method of pulling the axle through. I Just don't really believe this. 3 hours to do six? fudging the numbers a bit eh?

Just a note about punches and rollpins. For the rear axles, the inner roll pin is larger dia. than the outer roll pin. The 5/16 punch will not work on the outer (smaller) pin, you'll need a 1/4.

I wondered if that was what was going on. again, real cool.

I Thought I had read this about EA82 into EA81 swap. Perhaps it's an issue with the 70's models? I know I read about somebody having to hammer their frame rails to make something fit.

Looks great. My only question is whats up with you're power steering pump? Why is it sitting all crooked?

I know some dealersare starting to offer aftermarket brand pars for htese cars so perhaps they sold you a Fle-pro kit or something. Otherwise they had to piece toghether a kit because subaru doesn't sell "kits", everything has it's own part number and price. I know my dealer put's toghether oil pump reseal kits(TOD kit). They put the 3 seals in a bag toghether(still in thier seperate subaru # bags) and use a label that they print to mark it on the outside.

What did that kit include? If it had all the valve cover and timing cover gaskets, and all the cam,main and Oil pump seals that was a deal for sure. The dealer I go through ussually charges $30 just for the 3 oil pump seals and another $25 for just the valve cover gaskets. Cam and main seals are about $15 a piece.

Also look behind the glovebox and make sure the that the wires to the pulser unit are not crimped or damaged, also look at the wires going to the Compressor. Otherwise, perhaps the there is a part failing, like the pulser, or the magnetic clutch in the compressor.

The 40 dollar Kits on ebay are great for getting things like valvecover gaskets, exhaust gaskets, Cam seals, main seals and all that good stuff. You'd spend way more than that from the dealer for that stuff. Only thing that really is good to get from subaru are the HGs and the Intake gaskets. Although honestly I've used a few of those "Erastic" sets and they worked fine. One for 20,000 plus miles now, on a turbo. Of course I've retoqued both the HGs and the intake. The HGs I retorqued after about 100 miles driving and the intake I retorqued at 100 miles and then again after about 5000 miles.

Can't have been. They must have been replaced prior to you getting it. Or you have Gen 1 heads and are mistaking the smooth area around the *EA82* as a box. The gen 3 have a very pronounced rectangular box around the marking. No, not even close. Totally different beast. Unless you wanted to get into massive welding fabrication project. I still don't think it would be possible even then.

I'm pretty sure. Perhaps by 90 or 91 they were getting the GEN 3 but in 87 like our OP's car they would definately have been gen 2 or even gen 1 in early 87(non spider). The OP never said which type of intake and what ECU type he has(flapper vs. hotwire MAF)

Someone must have replaced the heads at some point, because the Gen 3 heads were only sold as replacement part by subaru. Did you put them on when you did the HG last time? Consider yourself lucky if you have no cracks between the valves. I mean they don't have any real negative affect but heads with 90k miles on them and no *btv* cracks are rare. As far as overheating issue. Was the timing spot on? I killed my very first Soob that way, too far advanced timing.

Sounds like a shop that knows subarus and has fair prices. If only shops here where like that. I still wouldn't take my car to them(I've never paid a Mechanic for anything in my life) but it would be nice

Uhhh, the distributor goes into the CAM case, not the head. As far as I know, the heads can be switched from side to side but things like the EGR port and the Turbo coolant and oil return lines make it specific side to side. But with a bit of drilling and tapping you could make a Drivers side head fit the passenger side and vice versa. Don't worry about different casting numbers on them. What I would check though, espescially since they are from an XT is the exhaust ports. Look into the exhaust port, where the pipe bolts on. On the inside, where the *wall* that runs across the middle meets the edge. Clean it with Carb cleaner and look real close for cracks in there. If there is a crack there, it can leak water into you're exhaust. Gen 2 and Gen 3 heads are less likely to crack (although I've had a Gen 3 with a crack there) Look on the bottom of the head for *EA82* casting mark. EA82=1st gen EA82=2nd Gen EA82 enclosed fully in a box= 3rd Gen Note: Don't worry about those cracks that are in the combustion chambers between the valves, they are normal.

This is not really true. A failed or disconnected Solenoid causes full line pressure to be sent to the transfer clutch. And while even then the plates will slip before an axle break, it still will cause massive torque bind(that's why some of us use a switch to disable the solenoid for a locked 4wd). So yeah, if the solenoid is failed(or somewhere else in that circuit, like poor contact at connector) you WILL get torque bind. Place a fuse in the FWD slot under hood and see if it goes away. If so you have a TCU and a solenoid that are at least sometimes working properly. If the fuse doesn't stop the bind then I bet you're solenoid is bad. I would suggest a full trans flush refill with Type IIII synthetic trans fluid. either way/

Was this on an NA block without the breather in the back of the block? I was hoping to be able to keep it setup stock, just minus the block breather. Will I have too much oil get to my intake?

I'd say try to get a EA82 shifter assembly, because the EA81 shift linkage won't bolt up correctly I think

This has me really confused. I don't know where near the distributor there is a skinny hose. The heater hose return line is near there, but it's a fairly large line(5/8 ID, 7/8 OD) and I don;t know what you could mean by a valve. Can you take pictures?

Welcome to the board. Is the line on the bottom of the blocK? or the top? if its the one on top it is a bypass that lets coolant back into the block when thermostat is closed. We call it the "hose to you know where" here on the board as it is really difficult to change out, but can be done using a Hemostat. The clamps surgeons use I am a few hours north of you just over the WI border.(Kenosha) I have parts and alot of experience with these cars. PM me if you ever need anything.

I would agree with Daerons suggestion of keeping the EA81 but swapping the SPFI onto it. The EA82 is too wide to fit in there without cutting/hammering the frame rails. They are too narrow by about 2-3 inches to accept the EA82. Edit: Others are nowq saying that it will fit. I thought I had read about troubles with that swap. My bad

I think it is on the drivers side near the rear of the trans

Want some more high tech advise? Now that you've got it back toghether, go behind the car and take a look at the angle of the wheel. Does it look to be pointed straight ahead? Tilted in or out? In other words eyeball the alignment and make sure you're not way off. Don't bother taking it in to an alignment shop. They weill tell you there is no adjustment for the rears. Or they will try and set the alignment by loosening the subframe bolts and trying to shift the whole damn subframe, which doesn't work, and will cost you an arm and a leg. The only place that MIGHT know how to do the alingment properly is a subaru dealer or specialist. And even the dealer is unlikely to know how unless they have techs that have been there for 20-30 years. I ussually try to getcamber straight up or slightly positive(tipped in at top,by eye) and then I use 2 yardsticks to set the toe. Place each stick against the inside, front, lip of the rim. Hold them flat against eachother and mark the spot where they overlap. Now repeat this on the back lip of the tires. Compare marks and adjust Toe until the marks line up on eachother. Here's a scan of the page in the FSM that describes the adjustment process May have to right click and "save picture" to be able to zoom

Both 3at and 4EAT have the AT TEMP light. In the 3at it is just a warning to the user to not drive hard (or just stop for a bit) In the 4EAT, when the temp is high(AT TEMP light on) it triggers the TCU to put the trans in *power* mode and to limit the 4wd transfer to nearly zero. Slightly different function in either vehicle, that's why I put "Note: for all you 4EAT owners."

Correct, that's where it is, left side off the steering wheel, by the charge light. It should come on when the key is turned to on before starting. Perhaps you're bulb is burned out. The sensor is a simple thermoswitch that completes a circuit to ground for that pin of the TCU, triggering the light. Now something interseting is that the 2 wires for the ATF temp sensor are run inside a shielded caseing, which is connected to ground. If for some reason that cluster of wires get's to hot, the shielding will melt through the wires, and ground the circuit causing the AT TEMP light to come on. If you're AT TEMP light is always on, even at startup, chances are it is this or some other type of short to ground. Note: for all you 4EAT owners. When AT TEMP light is on, the 4wd transfer is reduced to minimum(FWD only pretty much) at the same time, if the temp light is on, the TCU will keep the trans in *power* mode, utilizing higher shift points and will downshift more readily. So if you're sensor or wires are shorted you will be stuck in power mode, with no 4wd. Supposed to be a failsafe mode but LAME!!

Sadly, it's not a 4eat. The 2wd 4EAT was only offered in XTs. 2wd GLs and GL-10s have a 3at. (I know cause I junked one and the 3at is in my garage still) Upside is that on the turbos, the 3at is a bit beefed up and has taller(3.545) final drive ratio, so possibly better highway milage if you stay out of the turbo. Only the "fulltime" 4wd automatics had the 4EAT