Gloyale

not to mention that MPFI non turbo is the rarest setup of all the EA82s. Found only in 85 GLs and non-turbo XT(all years)

It can be unbolted from the engine and the one bolt at the back of the trans, then slip it off the rubber hanger near the rear diff. Now it should hang down and swing to the side, out of the way enought to remove the trans. We didn't have to unbolt any of the sections of Toms to drop it down and slide it to the side(IIRC his is all welded up too).

That is a likely problem. The 3 little lines are only for belt alingment. When the Flywheel is at 0 TDC, the rotor should be somewhere near #1. That's the starting point, then you time it with a light so #1 fires at 20 degrees.

I bought a full set of 185/75 coopers *trendsetter SE* last year?

No SPFI in 85 at all. 86 only in Cali and 2wd cars. IIRC believe in 87 only Cali and 2wds as well, but I'm not positive about 87.

The bulbs in EA82s are colored by a coating of rubbery plastic directly on the bulb. Orange for 85,86. and green thereafter. Change it to whatever color and that is what you'll get. Problem is they are really small little bulbs held into the dash by means of a plastic fixture clip thing. Finding the right ones in colors might be hard. You might have to really look to find em.

I think That is an M8 bolt hole. Same as the exhaust studs. You could probably tap the striped hole directly, for a 7/16 bolt. (7/16 tap ussaully call s for 3/8 drilled hole. M8 is about 25/64 so pretty damn close.)

Busted passenger side belt= XT3(cyl) I'm sure it will run great once it's back toghether.

Good write up there s'ko. Only thing I'd like to add is that when driving out the roll pin from the axle, it must be done from the right direction. The hole is tappered, so pushing it the wrong way through will get it jammed. Punch it out from the unbeveled side. New pin punches in from the beveled side(bevel is there to make starting it through easier)

Cluster lights are much smaller than those.

I've had them just easily compress before. If the E brake isn't used that often, and the adjuster hasn't turned itself very far out, sometimes you can get enough room just by compressing it with a clamp. I did it once before I knew better and it was fine. But know I own the proper little cube tool and always rotate them in. If you were able to compress it and now the ebrake and everything else works fine still I wouldn't worry much. But a note to the original poster: DO NOT let non subaru experienced mechanics work on you're XT. They will undoubtedly tell you things are wrong that aren't(like lifters and valves) or they will screw something up, or they will charge you for insane labor that isn't needed. Or any combination of the three. Take the ridiculous sums that youd spend at a shop, and buy tools. Read up on things here and Go on ebay and get yourself a Factory Service Manual. There is an EBAY seller "Roth's books " That has full sets of every year XT service manuals. $100 bucks, which is high but worth it. It will pay for itself quickly when you compare to what *shops* will charge. Or you can buy one of us a plane ticket to come fix it:clap: , you'll still spend less and get it fixed right, as opposed to a shop.

New radiator= less than $100 Installing it= 10 minutes(it's so stupid easy it's not funny) Walking home, calling a tow truck, and dealing with a worthless(now becasue of blown engine) hulk of a car = feeling of foolishness for not thinking it was worth buying a raditor.

There is an adjustment spec for the TPS. At least for the idle switch portion of it. It should be adjusted so that at fully closed, there is continuity between The blue/wgite wire and the Black wire. Insert a .55mm feeler gauge inbetween the idle stop screw and the throttle lever. There should now be no continuity. Adjust by way of the 2 hold down screws for the TPS, loosen and rotate TPS body until it comes into spec. Do not adjust the throttle stop screw Closed throttle=switch closed throttle open just a hair=switch open

You can drive on it for quite a while. But If you do so be ready to buy a whole new axle, casue the joint will get contaminated with grit pretty quickly. The thing that really sucks about driving with a torn boot on that side is that the Catalytic converter gets blasted with grease, that then smokes and stinks as it burns off.

What year and model. What piece of the shifter setup do you need? I've got a good shifter here.

It will sound abit funny, often a hollow pumping sound, and spinning faster. But a right side belt(passenger side) won't cause a no spark. Indeed the car could actually run on the 2 drivers side cylinders, I've seen it. But a broken drivers side belt will leave a no spark condition. Easy to check, remove the cap and crank engine, watch the rotor, If it doesn't turn, broken belt.

That's the fast idle solenoid. It's not the same as the IAC on the SPFI.

It is shown to be for the Parking/position/corner lights. Specifically for the circuit that the parking light switch opertates. I'm not sure at all why the car wouldn't run without that fuse though.

Not so. SPFI engines have IAC (Techincally called Air Control Valve by Fuji). MPFI 4cyl engines have an AAV and do not have a IAC in the throttle body.. And XT6 (er27) has what's techinacally called the By-pass Air Control Valve. Altough it is largely similar to the SPFI's IAC set-up. IAC and the By-pass valves are controled, at variable rates, by the ECU to regulate the idle for load and tempature conditions. It can change the amount of air passed through for idling very quickly. The AAV setup starts open when cold and then slowly closes as tempature rises. It is not controled by the ECU in relation to anything other than temp, and reacts very slowly. In our case here, I think our poster has a IAC. And it may be dirty or malfunctioning. Hook up a voltmeter to the Black/white wire going to it and test for Voltage with ignition on. should be 12v Again test for voltage but on the white wire. There should be less than 1v at start-up, and more than 10v after about a minute. repeat this test if it fails, this time at pin 45, GR wire at the ECU, to find if it is a harness issue. All that good? Now test the IAC itself by measuring resistance across the 2 terminals. Should be less than 100 ohms. Resistance between either terminal and body ground should be greater than 1M ohms(infinite, no continuity)

This statement has been bothering me. Both types joints in our axles are CV's. They are two specific types of CV's (of which there are at least 3) The inner joint of our CV assemblies is the Double Offset Joint (DOJ) . It is specifically made to provide flexible capability in the longitudinal direction. It allows fro the axle to slide up into the joint as the suspension compresses and vice/versa when shock is extended. The outboard end of the axle is a bell joint type(BJ). It features a large angle of operation. However it is NOT supposed to have longitudinal (in /out) play.

SPFI has IAC. MPFI has AAV like you're ER27

+1 for Spill Master Euro Jr.!!! I screwed mine directly to my dash.

This indicates too much air getting into the engine. Either a Vacuum leak or a fault in the IAC. Something is letting unmetered air in. Start the car and srpay starter fluid around the base of the intake manifold, see if it changes idle.

3AT's clutch pack is virtually the same in function. only difference in operation is that it get's either no pressure(2wd), or full pressure(4wd). There is no modulation of the pressure to allow for "slip". But just as with the 4EAT, no running pump= clutch pack engagement= no 4wd transfer.

This is the original post. States clearly it is an automatic. Ivan, unless the clutch pack is totally welded toghether inside, there is zero possibility of it being in 4wd (it's not meshed gears, it's a clutch that requires pressure from a running pump) It is on the fly pushbutton 4wd(even more so that the Manuals). The button activates a solenoid in the trans to open and send pressure to the transfer clutch. Nice because it's almost instant 4wd engagement. If you can't get it to roll even in neutral, it's something else.