Gloyale

Single pole??? Are the EA81 thermoswitches different than the EA82s?

This is shown on the the schematics, as a *check connector* It is not shown plugging into anything, nor is there a description about what it's for. I think it can be ignored, either left inplace(then you've got if if ever it's needed) or simply cut it out as it is not connected to anything and isn't a part of any user testing that can be done.

Close, but not quite. You're thinking of an XT maybe. The hose from the base of the carb goes up over the manifold, (on the drivers side of the carb) and attaches into the line that supplies the heater core. it's a 5/8 diameter tube with a small (1/4 inch?) nipple sticking up about half way down it's length. The tube form carb attaches to that nipple. The factory hose is benmt to clear the throttle shaft. If you are using straight hose make sure you give it enough room(or zip tie it) so it doesn't rub on the thottle shaft. The one from the Tstat housing does go under the intake to that port on the top of the block(pictured above)

I preffer unbolting the trailing arms for one reason. RUST. The bolts on the mustache bar are often really crusty, and if I snap those I'm screwed. If I snap one of the 3 trailing arm bolts, it's easy to heat and drill out the old bolt and use a new one. Or worst case, replace the trailing arm with one from my parts stash. That and I have a bad back, I don't like messing with the heavy lifting unless I have to. NOTE: If the cups are stuck to the stubs, cut aweay the torn boot and remove the clip inside the cup that holds in the outer race. Now just slide the axle out of the cup. Clean, install new boot on the axle. Reassemble and clamp the large end of the boot. This can be done if either end is stuck to the stub shaft.

I'd say it's time for a trans flush. It does sound like what happened is excactly what should. The light came on when the fluid was too hot. The fluid may be getting hot because it is old and has lost some of it's hydrostatic nature.

OK. I asked because I really thought maybe you were joking. It wasn't a slam at all. The walls of the cylinder could look good to the eye, but the rings are surely worn from all the aluminum oxide particals that must have been made by that head getting ground up. (aluminum oxide is great for media blasting)

It's not a cable on EA82 wagon/sedans. it is a geared armature. basically it is the frame and gearing that the motor bolts to. If you pull the door panel, you can see it inside the door. it is right behind the area that the manual crank would be at if it had manual windows.

It's easy. Just punch out the roll pins at both ends. Unbolt the lower strut bolt. Also unbot the 3 trailing arm bolts. Mark the positions of the 3 bolts in relation to the arm, as there location affects alignment. Once those bolts are undone the arm can drop very far down, enough to be able to slide the axle of the diff stub, then off the wheel axle stub.

Precisely. Kenosha indeed. The plant just makes motors now(3.5L), not whole cars. Last whole cars to be made here where the first generation Jeep Cherokees and the 80's K cars(Reliant, Aires, Lebaron, NewYorker). One of those old timers is my Father inlaw.(he worked there in the 70's through 90's, not so old)

Is this a joke? Please tell me this is a joke. That piston has bit more damage than "buffing" will take out. And if you've ever held one of these pistons the tops are pretty thin. Plus there is the damage to the cylinder wall from all that metal flying round. I'll bet those rings are toast. I personally hate throwing away rebuildable motors, swapping in some cheap used one rather than rebuild. But this is one case where I would actually say "get a new engine"

Just a note: the thermoswitch is normally open at cool. It closes and completes the connection to ground at around 205 degrees. Fan is supplied with 12v by ignition and only runs when switch closes(hot) and completes ground.

The relay wires should be as follows. or at least this is how it was wired for the original AC application Blue=12v supply, constant(or ignition) Blue/yellow= 12v out to fan Red/black= 12v signal(from AC pulser/control unit) Green/white= ground What you want to do is wire Blue to constant fused 12v hook the Red/black to an ignition switched fused 12v so it has power whenever the ign. is on. Blue/yellow out to the new fans Pos. terminal And wire Green/white to the wire that grounds when the thermoswitch closes. Make sure you have it hooked to wire that is on the normally ungrounded side of the thermoswitch, so it has no ground until the thermoswitch closes the circuit.

Since I junked my old 86, my 89 Gl turbo is one of about 6 older Subaru's in this town(3 EA82s and 3 first gen Legacies). And it's the only Turbo one. And it's a pretty big town (85,000) But not only do they buy cars like Buicks and Chrysler here, they build 'em(6 blocks form my house) Some guy in an absolutely nicer than new(I can't stress how nice this car was), mint 69 Nash Rambler (Chyrsler factory here was originally home of Nash motors) was staring at my 89 GL when I came back to it today and told me he was admiring it!! HHWWAAAAAHH???? My GL is totally rust and dent free, shiny red from Oregon. Not the way 80's cars ussually look around here. I think he was buttering me up to ask me for a jump start. We tried but the problem was his Cable had melted where it attaches to the starter. We held the wire against the terminal while someone cranked it over. Worked

The *rattling* noise may be a sign that you're timing is out of adjustment.

I don't think this is a good idea. It is a completely different type of signal, not just a different rate of pulse. I just looked at the Diagrahms for at least an 89 XT6. It appears the Black wire of the 3 is the signal wire. the other 2 are a ground and a shield. I think it will be a ground continuity pulse and not a Volatge pulse the the in dash VSS. I though that both sensors where connected to the ECU but appartently only the dash one drives the ECU. The TCU has both connected to it.

Yes they will work

There is a petcock(drain) in the botom passenger side corner of the radiator and there are drain bolts in the heads as well. The ones in the head are very tight ussually, and the one on the drivers side is fairly hard to access. But you really just need the radiator drain. Of course you could just put a big pan under the lower radiator hose and remove the hose at the radiator and it will drain into the pan. Those Japanese engineers take environmental consequences of things much more seriously. You can't even drive a car with an engine with more than 60,000 miles there. And their Junkyards are much more like dismantling and recycling centers where everything is collected. Regulations on Shops are stringent and DIY work is very frowned upon if not all out illegal.

I live in wisconsin and we get rust like nobodies business. Heres what I had to do in this situation. This method is a way to change the boots leaving one or both of the CV cups attached to their respective studs First unbolt the lower strut bolt, and the 3 trailing arm bolts.Mark the trailing arm bolt positions as it affects the alignment on reassembly. this will give you lots of room to drop the hub. now cut off the torn inner boot. Now remove the clip in the CV Cup that stops the race from coming out. Push down on the control arm and slide the whole inner joint out of the cup. Now you can disassemble the rest of the axle, slide on you're new inner boot. Now reassemble in reverse order, making sure to put new grease in the cup and installing the clip in the race after you slide the joint toghether. once it's all in clamp the boot to the inner joint and you're done.

This is all correct ecxept for the location of the #1 plug on disty. If the disty is installed according to factory, #1 will be the one at the rear/center most postition.(pointing at trans)

Where you advanced or retarded?(and I'm not talking about your schooling) Did you try and climb any 5 mile long grades up over 8000 ft passes? If you had you may have run into trouble. Also, you may have been right on the edge of what can work. And with an XT6 there is a knock sensor and other inputs that help the ECU control timing. SPFI=no knock sensor, and Carbed is even worse because there is no ECU control over ignition at all

Gl-10s with digital dash will beep an annoying alarm at you if you go over 6000 rpm, but the motor will continue to rev.

No need to remove the radiator if you don't want to. ity does make things easier but if you aren't ready to drin and refill you're cooling system the T-belt job can be done easily with the Rad and hoses still in place.

:confused: :confused: :confused:

It's actually 3 wires. 1 12v, and 1 for each solenoid. but really any Single pole, double throw, switch would work edit: duh, automatic. no vaccum solenoids. Just a single throw switch and 2 wires, would work fine

I am building a new turbo EA82. I am using a block that was originally NA, SPFI. I am using the 7.7 cr turbo pistons and essentially a stock setup. My question is that there is not port in the top of the block for the PCV, just the 2 on the valve covers. What are some experiences people have had with this? Seems like I should be able to plumb the PCV system just like the SPFI setup. Or my machinist who builds race motors said to eleiminate the pcv and just put breathers on the valve covers. I am not sure this is a good idea. Who's tried what and what worked and how well? What are the results?