Scott F

How did it go today, Kevin?

I heard this stuff is highly flammable. Someone should put a flame on a dry chunk of it, and report back.

Other than a little midwest rust, it looks pretty nice. First time I have seen spray in bed liner in a brat.

I have the same BRAT, but mine is a roach in comparison. How many miles are on it?

Bump for a EA81T module. Anyone? These may or may not interchange: 85,86 GL turbos and 86,87 XT's turbo or non turbo

Gloyale, that would be fantastic. Can you take out the module and overnight it to me in a padded envelope? Send me a PM with your phone number.

The local stores want $$$ for this module and of course they are not in stock. I would junk the car first. The Subaru dealer will probably be worse. So that leaves the junkyard or a private stash. Does anyone have one of these modules?

Thanks Gloyale, that's the page I was looking for. I got the star off using edrach's technique. I had a 90* flat blade screwdriver that fit under the star to pry it up, but that wasn't enough. So, I had several phillips 90* screwdrivers, and I ground down one into a flat blade. Using both together, I was able to pry up the star with much effort. Now I have the module out, and I wish I had one to replace it. I will call the local stores and see if any are open today. The only number I see on the module is 3930, but no name.

"No need to punch out the roll pin. With the distributor in the car (or held in place in a vise), use two screwdrivers to carefully pry the 4 point "star" unit. Do not nick the edges of it while doing this. Once that part is off the shaft, the module comes out easily with a small phillips screwdriver. Don't lose any of the spacers or hardware." edrach I am trying to remove the star, but so far it is not budging. If I get it off, can I buy the Hitachi module somewhere for a reasonable price, or do I have to find it at the junkyard? Does it have to be from an EA81T? Does anyone know the part number? Does anyone in SoCal have one?

Gloyale, thanks a lot for the diagrams. I don't see the distributor or ignition module on there, and it only shows one wire going to the negative terminal of the coil. Is there another page? Naru, I believe you may be right, and yes, I desperately need to try an ignition module. Is this part available at dealers or parts stores? How do you change it? It appears that I have to remove the 4 point "star" first. How do you get that off? It has a roll pin to retain it again the flat on the shaft. Should I use a puller? Any tricks? Is it better to swap out the whole distributor? It must be from an EA81T, right? There are 3 wires going to the - terminal on the coil. When I remove these, I get 12V on both the + and - side. Two of the wires do not change this, but the dark yellow one that goes to the module sparks when connected, and pulls down the voltage. Any more help or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the tips guys. I am still unable to troubleshoot this problem, with a lack of information and parts to swap. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the EA81T?

In case anyone missed it, this is a turbo car with EFI.

Are the turbo and non-turbo distributors the same?

I was speeding along at 65 in the #1 lane, with the car running perfectly normal, when it suddenly cut off and lost power. Luckily I was able to coast in neutral over to the shoulder and up the nearest off ramp. I got it towed home, and now I am trying to trouble shoot it. This is my only ride, so I am desperate to get it fixed asap. The first thing I checked was gas. I disconnected the hose from the filter in the engine bay, and it flows like a fire hose. Next, I pulled a plug and checked for spark, and I saw nothing. This was at night, so it should have been easy to see a spark. This morning I checked the fusible links and the fuse box. Everything was ok. I had 12V at the ignition fuse. Then I pulled the distributor cap, and the rotor and cap contacts were pretty nasty. I cleaned them up real nice so I can get it running, then I will replace them asap. With the ignition switch ON, I have 11V on the coil + terminal, and 3V on the coil - terminal. I have been searching USMB for clues, but I haven't figured it out yet. Without a manual or schematic, I am quickly running out of ideas. I desperately need some help and suggestions. Anyone?

If you must have stacks, don't put them through the body like that! Stacks = redneck organ pipes

Flyboy mentioned the other sticky issue, which is adapting custom axles to the trans and hubs. Anything is possible, but at what price? Unfortunately, there is NO demand for custom Subaru suspension, so there is no marketability for any R&D efforts in this area. I have considered cutting the DOJ and outer CV stub axle, and welding them to U-joint flanges. Perhaps this would be a viable solution with the right sized U-joints and a splined slip joint with a boot. I am leaning towards having longer axles made, to use OEM parts. Either way, I would want to increase track width by at least 3" per side, for longer travel and greater stability. The bogus strut front suspension would be replaced with A arms and coilovers. The rear torsions would be replaced with stronger, longer and wider trailing arms with coilovers. Maybe someday I will have the time, money and inclination for this project. Maybe not.

I was wondering when someone would mention these High Angle half shafts. I never did because I knew no one here would be interested due to cost. Perhaps a cheaper solution for long travel is to make custom axle shafts that are longer than stock. Of course that would require custom suspension components, and no one here would be interested due to cost. Will there ever be a mid-travel (10-16") Subaru?

I only right poetry to a woman I am in love with... Don't let your wife see this.

This hacked up unibody will wad up like aluminum foil in any kind of wreck or roll over. Some sort of decent cage is mandatory.

Look here subaruguru and the rest of you rednecks. Square tubing and angle are not acceptable for roll bars or cages. Here's the proper and minimal thing to do: 1) Find a local fab shop or 4x4 shop. 2) Have them bend up a mild steel 1 1/2" x .120" B hoop that will fit closely to the roof line and existing B pillar. Put large 1/8" plates on the bottom and weld these to the unibody. Alternatively, you can double plate it, with bolts through the unibody. The B hoop shoud also tie into the unibody "frame rails", and be plated to the B pillar and roof in several places. Add a big X to the B hoop. 3) The B hoop will need some support fore and aft. You can either add A pillar tubes with two bends, with a cross tube along the top of the windshield, or "kickers" to the rear, angling down to the unibody "frame rails". It would be wise to do both. 4) If your welding sucks that bad, have someone else do the welding. You are a young man with a long life to live. Doing this job right will help to maintain your health and longevity.

Hey Bos'ko, too bad I was too busy to make the show. Did you get another one day moving permit to take it to the show?

I also paid 50 each. I think I picked them up at APW in Gardena, CA?

After some deep thought, perhaps it is the pivot that needs lube or new bushings.

I hope to do the 5 spd swap into my 84 Turbo BRAT asap. I was wondering if there is a clever way to run the engine oil through the tranny cooler lines in the radiator.

There is a lot of good info here. I have experience with a propane powered off road buggy. Propane loves turbos and high compression. I would only use Propane for an ORV with limited miles per day, like say a hill climber or mountain buggy.