Scott F

If I was an expert, I would go check them out...

I just removed this pin. The trans was out, and I tapped the pin in and out from the top. It should work either way. Do you need any of the linkage bushings? I may be able to send you some.

cyber, did you ever go check these out? I am very curious whether they are 1.59 D/R or not, and what diff and ratio they have.

Nice write up. Does anyone know if these knuckles are cast iron or cast steel?

I tried to post a pic...

Can you send me the three console brackets and hardware for my 84 Turbo BRAT?

All BRATs were equal leaving the production line. It's not our fault that your government applies sodium chloride to your frozen precipitation.

New axles come with new pins. I recommend GCK new axles, not reman. Castle parapets?

If any of you guys really want to buy a rust free west coast BRAT, I have a low mileage original 84 Turbo BRAT that I will part with for 3000 cash. It's perfect for restoration or mods.

The smartest way to start a restoration would be to buy a rust free west coast BRAT, like my original low mileage 84 Turbo BRAT.

So, the stubs only fail if you weld the diff?

I am considering having some of these stub axles made out of 4340 and heat treated. Can you send this sheared one to me so I can show it to the axle manufacturer? Do the front ones ever fail like this?

I ended up pulling one from the JY. I hope the stock EA81 clutch cable and speedo cable will work fine with the 5spd D/R.

Man, that sucks in so many ways...

250mm IS long travel on a Subaru! You should try to get every bit that the rule allows, and the highest quality. Consider a coilover and bypass shock for each wheel. I would try to get 300-400mm of travel if I build my BRAT. Baja versus Dakar, bumps are bumps, and sand is sand...

Kenshiro, can you post the rules you must comply with for chassis, suspension and engine? If I were building a Subaru for Dakar, I would start with the lightest car, gut it out, build a bumper to bumper tube chassis/cage, install an EJ engine and D/R trans, around 30" tires, and, most important of all, custom long travel suspension. It does not matter what aftermarket suspension parts are available, they are not adequate for desert racing.

Nice job. I sure could use an unmolested EA81 pedal assy if you have any more.

Please elaborate on this also. Where is the retaining bolt?

I get the slip joint idea, what I meant was could you elaborate on this statement. How can you use the outer joint as an inner?

Numbchux, there is a company who is making half shafts for off road buggies with IRS, using U-joints and a slip joint. Is it really possible to use two outer joints with a slip joint axle? Please elaborate on this. I found an axle company that is willing to make stub axles out of 4340 chromoly or 300M $$$. They can also make an adapter stub with two splines, a 23 inner, and xx outer, to mate to a 930 CV flange. Do these stubs pop in and out, retained by a ring?

So, does that mean you don't have to change your engine?

I want to bump this for two reasons. One, if new stubs are made, they should be 300M not Chromoly. There should be some axle makers that could make these for a reasonable price. Two, I would rather see effort go into a stub with a flange to accept a 930 CV, which would eliminate the DOJ. I want longer axles with more angle for long travel suspension.

I almost lost my lunch looking at that cancer. I think salting the roads goes way back to a conspiracy of the DOT's and car manufacturers to rot out cars in three years to increase sales. Rust and salt are four letter words.

This is an incorrect statement. If these arms were a true trailing arm, pivoting perpendicular to the chassis longitudinal centerline, there would be no camber change. But this is not the case. These are semi-trailing arms, meaning they pivot at an angle to the centerline. This causes camber change throughout the travel, positive at full droop, and negative at full bump. The more you clock or droop the arms, the more positive camber you will have.

Yes, I still want to install it. This 3AT has got to go! And I like automatics...