Ginger48

Do a Google search on Marvel Mystery Oil and MSDS. It's just lubricating oil and mineral spirits (paint thinner)

When's the last time you priced stainless metric all thread? You had better be sitting down!

It's very simple. The less filtering media there is (and Subaru oem oil filters ARE small) and the more contaminants there are in the filter WHEN the oil is cold and thick, the oil IS going to find the least restrictive place to flow through.....and that's the bypass valve. Why do you think oil filter manufacturers install bypass valves in their filters? If they didn't, you'd blow a hole in the filter media. When the bypass valve opens, guess where all the contaminants that were previously trapped in the filter goes? The oil filter manufacturers aren't going to install something that isn't necessary and doesn't ever get used. Conversely, the larger the filter (more filter media) the less restrictive it is and less likely the bypass valve will need to open when the oil is cold and thick. If you use synthetic oil, or you change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles this is most likely a moot point. EDIT: Oil filter bypass valves are NOT designed to open at a specific oil pressure. They are designed to open at a specific pressure differential. The more contaminants there are in the filter and or the colder the oil is, the greater the pressure differential.

That is true. In one of the papers SAE makes available to the public, they show how air and oil filters actually filter better after they get a layer of contamination on them. Clean isn't necessarily better.

Sorry, but you did miss one important benefit of using a larger filter. When starting a cold engine, the bypass valve can open thus allowing dirt previously caught in the filter to circulate through the engine. The thicker the oil, the colder it is, and the smaller the filter, the greater the chances this will happen. In cold climates it's best to use the largest filter available.

If you want the ultimate in oil filters install a Frantz bypass oil filter. It will keep your oil analytically clean 100% of the time. Some will bad mouth the Frantz but modern oil analysis tests have proven the Frantz does work as advertised. Any full flow filter, regardless of manufacturer, is nothing more than a screen that removes the large particles. A bypass filter on the other hand removes much smaller particles. Large over the road diesels that run for over 1 million miles use both full flow and bypass oil filters.

If you want the ultimate fuel atomization, install a propane or natural gas fuel system. You'll experience MUCH less power.

86 GL wagon with 315,000 miles: 22 to 24 mpg mountain driving (8,000 to 12,000 ft elevation) 38 to 40 mpg flat land keeping speed UNDER 60mph 48.8 mpg flat land, 55mph w/strong tail wind! Seldom drive in cities so no idea what mileage would be there.

9 years ago a friend of mine took me for a ride in his Subaru powered gyrocopter. It was powered by an EJ engine with a distributor and holly carburetor. The pilot and craft are now somewhere on the bottom of Lake Michigan. Subaru's are safer on the ground.

Google Frantz filter for new units or check eBay for NOS or used.

If you want the ultimate oil filter, install a Frantz oil filter. I've been using them for over 40 years. Our military even uses similar depth type filters to save on oil changes. Oil analysis proves they work.

1986GL 311,000 miles on the clock and still counting. Still original engine that's never been opened up. Uses one quart of oil/1800 miles. I don't change the oil....just the Frantz oil filter cartridge. Body still good. Purchased when it was 3 years old. 1986GL 163,000 miles. Unknown past.

Thank the greenies for introducing moose into Colorado. It's my understanding they were never there before.

Real men don't need no stinking hill holders.....Learn to heal to toe it! It's very easy.

For the last 21 years I've always used aftermarket 160 or 180 degree thermostats in all my EA82's and NEVER had any cooling issues. Using 195 degree thermostats will slightly increase fuel mileage but they also put increased strain on the cooling system due to the increased pressure the extra heat creates. Since I also own Chevrolets and the thermostats are interchangeable with Subaru, I usually use Chevrolet thermostats. If a Chevrolet thermostat will flow enough to cool a 454 cubic inch engine, I'll flow enough to cool a little 1800 cc (110 cubic inches) engine. Remove your thermostat, place it in a pan of boiling water on the stove. If it fully opens, it's not the thermostat.

I'm sure how fast gasoline deteriorates depends on the climate. My 87 Subaru sat unused for 3 years in the garage with 1/2 tank of fuel in a cool very dry climate. It started right up 2 months ago as if it had fresh gas in it. My old 1945 Jeep has sat with the same gas in it for up to 8 years at a time and never experienced any problems. I believe heat and moisture are the killers.

With the engine not running, look down your carburetor with the air cleaner cover off, pump the accelerator and see if it's squirting gas down the carb. If not, either rebuild the carburetor with a carb kit or just replace the accelerator pump in your carb.

If you don’t want to compromise fuel mileage, install the skinniest tires available with the least aggressive tread. Bald narrow tires are the best, but not the safest. The have less rolling resistance.

A large electrical contractor I worked for used metallic clutches in all their vehicles. Don’t know if they are still available but they did work great.

The many distillation plants that are being built in the midwest that are pumping massive amounts of water out of the Ogallala aquifer to make E85 is only adding to the future food shortage problem. There is only so much water available and when it’s gone.....I don’t want to think about it.

ATF is a very high detergent oil and has long been used as an additive for engine oil. Personally, I would much rather use ATF than Seafoam. At least ATF has lubricating abilities. The primary ingredients in Seafoam are naptha (Coleman fuel) and rubbing alcohol.

Additional information: we live at 9000 ft above sea level and frequently drive up to and through the Eisenhower Tunnel on Interstate 70 which is over 11,000 ft above sea level. We even occasionally drive up Mt. Evans and Pikes Peak which are both over 14,000 ft. High elevations = very thin air = extreme stress on a cooling system. I have never experienced a cooling system problem with any of my Subarus by using aftermarket thermostats. Anyone blaming aftermarket thermostats for their problems should check their radiators for restricted air flow or scale inside the radiator. Sorry, you can compare thermostats side by side all you want but that doesn't tell you anything about how they work in real life.

????????? Chevrolet had an aluminum engine option. Granted, there wern't alot of em built BUT they used the same cooling system parts as the cast iron engines. Subarus can't flow as much coolant as Chevrolet. Subaru radiator hoses are smaller, and the radiator coolant passages and the physical dimensions of the radiator are much smaller. Take the tanks off a Subaru radiator and you will see how small the tubes are. I personally have not used anything BUT Chevrolet thermostats for the last 18 years in my Subarus and have NEVER had any problems of any kind with them.

The aftermarket Subaru thermostat is a Chevrolet V8 thermostat that was used on all v8's up through the 454 cu in. Are you saying a Subaru is more difficult to cool than a 454?

I've NEVER had an axle failure from this company in 10 years....http://www.rmdriveline.com/ P.S. $60 exchange with a lifetime warranty