SuperNova
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Posts posted by SuperNova
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Ever had a problem with the Accel Super Stock Coils? I just got one for my 87 Hatch and i was told they are crap and i should find an original Hitachi.
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The Accel coils are garbage. Get an original Hitachi coil.
GD
Really? Well ive only had it on for one day. I have time to return it. What have been the problems with them in the past? And where do i get a Hitachi Coil? I know i cant just go to any local parts store.
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So, i kinda feel like a retard. I was so caught up in that new SPFI sensors and possible problems, i didnt look to the super simple basics. I started tearing the top end apart starting with the MAF, and i ended up reading threw a few wiring diagrams and it made me remember that the ignition coil is wired to the fuel pump relay. And since i have been hearing the fuel pump itself change pitch, which i figured was a varying voltage problem, i tested the coil and wouldnt you know it, BAD COIL. Still made the car run, but crappy. It was a new coil when i did the SPFI swap, also a new cap and rotor, that were also pretty messed up. These parts have only been on for 5 maybe 6 months. Goes to show i should have never bought the cheap Kragens special parts just to get the car running. So i bought a Accel Super Stock coil, and i new cap and rotor, and she's back on the road. No problems, no stalling, voltage seems cool. It fuctuates when i turn the turn signals on with the blinking but i just figured that was normal. The only thing that kinda bugs me is that the idle isnt as smooth as i would like it. I cleaned the MAF, it was pretty clean to begin with. And im gonna clean and adjust the IAC, i cleaned it when i did the swap but never adjusted it, so that could be an issue. Any other thoughts?
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The 10 minute period of idle I mentioned is the "relearn" part for the ECU.
Dude, im not trying to be an a**, you didnt know how to put your car in D-check and now your saying it learns by sitting there idling. Ive just been trying to help you out. You ECU learns while you drive, its constantly adapting to conditions and how heavy your foot is on the pedal. Letting it sit and idle is not going to help it to learn. All the sensors put out different signals from idle to higher rpm, and the ecu compensates for this. It Learns! But dont just take it from me, do a little more reading and research, thats all ive been doing for 3 weeks now because of the problems with my car. Find the FSM, the link is on USMB somewhere posted by General Disorder. Again, all ive been trying to do is help.
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Try disconnecting your O2 sensor for a while.....
Does it do this while cold or warmed up? Any difference between the two?
Clean your MAF, and check operation of the TPS using an analog meter.
Hard starting - you have the ECU's start signal wired into the ignition switch harness?
GD
I'll try disconnecting the O2 sensor. When its cold it doesnt do it because the choke keeps it running at a higher idle, if i kick the choke down it will slowly die. And it dies whenever i come to a stop and let it idle. I'll clean the MAF, this was done when i did the conversion but i'll check it and do it again. I also have the FSM so ill follow the TPS testing procedures. It never usually has trouble starting, but this morning it would not start, i figured that it was because i flashed the ECU yesterday and did not drive it around. Maybe, Maybe not!?!
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A steady blinking Check Engine Ligh means there are no codes stored in the memory.
Well, it can mean a few things. When you are in D-check it means that there are no problems present in the system (its not throwing any codes). If the whole procedure was done correctly.
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Resetting the ECU clears the codes anyways. I figure that starting from fresh is better than just clearing the codes out.
True, but the ECU is a learning computer. It adjusts and learns the way you drive and makes everything run better miles down the road. So if you clear everything, it may not run right until you go for a drive.
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The proper way to do the reset is to pull the battery for at least 45 minutes. Plug it back in. Start the engine and leave the car in park or neutral for 10 minutes (or until the car gets warm) without touching the throttle. Then turn off the car.
Make sure none of the plugs for the ECU are plugged together (like black to black or black to green or etc).
Well, thats not exactely the proper way to reset the codes! You actually need to put it in "Clear Memory Mode". 1st warm up the car. Turn the ignition off, and plug in both the Test mode connector(green) and the Read memory connector(white or clear). Turn the ignition on (engine off) and if your CEL turns on, push your gas pedal to the floor then let off to half throttle for 2 seconds then completely let off and start the car. If the CEL goes out, drive the car above 5mph for at least 1 minute above 1,500rpm and if your CEL blinks then it worked and your codes are clear. Turn off your car and unplug both connectors. And if you still have a light than your ecu is throwing a code.
I know this is confusing but this is the proper way to reset your code memory. This procedure is straight out of the Subaru Service Manual.
Also unplugging your battery does reset the ECU, this is called "flashing". But you dont just disconnect the battery, push and hold the brake pedal to drain the internal ecu memory battery. You only have to hold it for a minute or so. 30 sec usually works for me. This is to completely reset the ECU, not just clear codes. And if you still need to know how to put the ecu in D-check, let me know. Hope this info has helped!
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OK, so, ive checked the wires coming from the coolant temp sensor to the main harness plugs and tested the sensor itself. The sensor was within limits and the wiring was fine. So now the problem is getting worse, it dies whenever i come to a stop and let it idle. Also, when i can get it going if i push the gas pedal to far it will act like its going to stall out but as soon as i let off it will keep running and i can only accelerate if i push on it slowly. Flashing the ECU no longer has an effect on the problem, it used to clear it up for a while but now its always there. Im guessing it might be the MAF or TPS sensors. Anybody have any suggestions??
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So, i finally got around to check the resistance on the coolant temp sensor. And its within factory specs. ( @ 68 degrees F = 2-3 K Ohms & @ 122 degrees F = 700-1000 Ohms). So back to the drawing board. Anybody have any other suggestions on what the problem could be??
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No you dont.
I just went through an Alt on Blu, it was two months old and went bad. I got one from subaru instead.
Volt meters move during the operation of the car. Is it bouncing around at 2000 rpm or higher?
nipper
Ok, well what type of alt did you have? I have a new, not reman, GM alt hooked to an Optima red top that i have tested a few times to be positive that they are not part of the issue. I Am pretty sure i dont have a problem with the charging system. Thats why i figured voltage regulator and thought i would post to see if anyone has had the same problems also.
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could also be a decaying charging wire, a bad fusible link or connection, bad battery cable/terminal...
with the car running, jiggle and twist and bend every plug, and every inch of every wire between the battery, alternator, and fusible link block, as well as wiggling all fusible links in their plugs. Have someone watch the volt meter, or better yet go to harbor freight and get a multimeter on the cheap (under five bucks.) Home depot has the same cheap multimeter for around ten bucks, maybe 15. Even a cheapo multimeter is an invaluable tool to have.
Yeah, well good idea but already thought of that. Actually with the new SPFI conversion i just did, i went through everything at the same time. So everything is pretty much new under the hood to the gauges and ecu. Its not something so simple or i would have found the problem by now. But thanks for trying.
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most parts places will check alternators for free. if the voltage is dropping to 10 while running with nothing on it could be the regulator, easiest to have it checked and remove the doubt then you can look for less obvious things.
Its a brand new GM alternator and its charging at the battery 14+ volts. So i know its not the ALT.
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So when im driving around i notice that the volts gauge goes up and down quite a bit from about 14 to around 10 or lower and nothing is on. I also noticed that i can heard the fuel pump change pitch with the voltage drop or increase. I have an EA81 with a SPFI conversion and a GM Alternator Swap, so i know i have plenty of power. I was thinking it could possibly be the voltage regulator but im not sure. And i figured i would ask and see if anybody knows whats up or has had this problem before.
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I have a 1985 xt non-turbo that is not passing smog in CA. The mechanic said the only problem is that the "check engine light" does not turn on when the ignition is on. The "ECS" light does turn on, though. Is the "ECS" the same as a "CEL" on other cars?
Yeah, im guessing you have a feedback carb setup. The ECS is the CEL of the carbed models.
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My custom mount with KC DayLighters.
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Hi This is Jerry, i have a 86 and a 80 hatch bolth of them have trailer hitches on them. I built them and i didn't install different shocks everything works fine. What i did was fine in the wrecking yard a class 1 hitch and cut it all up useing just the center part of the hitch only. Then i built everything else to fit the hatch. Thanks Jerry
Thats awesome, thanks for the post. I was wondering what you pull or what is the most weight you have pulled with the hatch? I'm planning on pulling a 400 lb. trailer with a 425 lb. quad on it. So 825 lbs. or so.
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So, ive been thinking lately about try to fab up a 1'' reciever on the back of my hatch to pull a small trailer. What does everybody think about that? Has anybody ever done or have thought about doing this? This would also include upgrading to stiffer rear shocks. And i would at most pull 1000 lbs.
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Hey all!
I've owned a 2006 Legacy spec b for about a year now and just got done doing a few mods and I love it even more.
I was wondering what other mods that are out there where I can get even more HP and or Torque... Because I am the president of the more money than brains club I'll try to describe what has been done as best I can...STI short ram air intake...
Cobb exhaust...
Access port installed...
Swaped out "up pipe"...
A turbo blow valve...
I don't want to make the car any louder and I don't want to compromise the reliability of the car. Any suggestions?
Thanks Sean.
So, thats a pretty good start, but i got to tell you that you should probably loose the blow-off valve. Your actually loosing Horsepower and creating more lag, the stock subaru recirculating system is awesome. And you really dont need the BOV unless you have a bigger turbo.
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Ok, lets try this again. I went to AutoZone and had them look up the sensor, they found the exact one i need but its $97. So i asked for the MPFI Turbo model sensor which is supposed to work just have 2 pin connectors instead of wires and a plug. It was $20 but it was the same one that i got from Kragens that i posted a pic of. So this is where im at, any ideas? Dont really want to spend 100 bucks on this.
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They hunt,Chace and Haul Hogs real nice too! But I seem to be haveing trouble with pictures. Maybe Supernova wants to post up a pic or two for me. Cause I resized and it's still a 900 KB file
Got it covered. This is a bad a** pic. Dont think anybody but you would ever do this to a WRX.....
Best part is i tied them down and we flew home on a windy road and they didnt move an inch.
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not to burst your bubble or anything, but we regularly pick up hay in the trunk of our camry. Not on top though.
yeah, there was 2 on top but i took the pic after i took 1 down. Its so much nicer driving with it on top then inside the hatch though. And since i had a a few miles to drive i got people starring for days. Probably laughing too!
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The sensor in the radiator is only to turn on the fans. You're looking at the incorrect one.
The sensor you want is in the thermostat housing, on the side of it. It'll have two wires leading off of it into a green plug. THIS is the temperature sensor you're looking for.
There will be one other temperature sensor with a single pin on it. This is the gauge one.
OK, cool, thanks for clearing that up a bit but when i went to get the new one from kragens they only had 2 sensors, 1 with 2 pins (the one i picked up) and 1 with only 1 pin (which i figured was for the gauge). Do you know of any part # or autoparts store that might have this??
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Hmmm. Except that's the sensor for the gauge or fan, not the one for the ECU. That's not gonna help you much. The one for the ECU is in the thermostat housing, and has a green connector.
From what ive been told the gauge sensor is a single wire and the ecu uses 2 wires. Is this wrong? Is the sensor in the intake right below the thermostat housing on a 90 Loyale, not in the housing itself?
Exhaust!
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
Was just wondering what type of mufflers people might be using on their EA81's. I have a Hatch and its hopefully just about to pass smog when i take it in this week, and after i want to put on a muffler thats not so restrictive but i dont want loud. Slight tone maybe. I was also wondering what everybody thinks about a cone filter on an EA81 with a spfi conversion. Have to buy a MAF adapter to fit a cone but i was just wondering if i should go with a cone filter or stick with the spfi airbox that is just sucking in air from the engine compartment and not a duct that pulls in air from the front of the car like the EA82 that i got the injection from. And if i should go with a cone, what type? I have heard non-oiled so i wont mess with the MAF, but i have also heard of people running K&N filters with no problems.