SuperNova

Bump! Lets bring this back to life.

Its not about running the car on only HHO, its a booster. A supplement to aid in the combustion process. The hydrogen creates a more complete burn of the fuel, less is wasted out the exhaust. It actually does increase mileage. I have been experimenting with HHO for the past 4-5 months now, amazing technology. Although there are quite a few people selling boosters out there that are not worth it and claim more mpg gain than what you actually get.

HHO rig i built only draws 8 amps.

Yes the water does turn brown after a while. It is basically the oxidation of the plates. From alot of the reading i have done, the plates need to be broke-in. Turn the cell on for a while, monitor temp, turn it off, turn it back on, change the water. Over and over, eventually the brown sludge on top will minimize and the plates will be conditioned and actually produce more gas. With the cell a friend and i have come up with, we dont have heating issues. We did with the first smaller cells, but the latest cell is big enough and has the water capacity to keep itself at a constant temp once it has warmed up. We have ran the cell for several hours without overheating. We have also considered the idea of a dry-sump cell basically, having another bottle/container that recirculates water though the cell. Using a dry-sump would also decrease the overall size of the cell itself.

yes, i totally understand the criticism. I get it all the time. My cell uses 316 stainless plates, and 4 '' pvc as the case. Tap water as the electrolyte. What do u mean electrolytes from a store? Bottled water? The cell can pretty much use any clean water. It doesnt need to be distilled, we've found from our testing that hot water gases more than cold water. There is actually quite a bit of videos on youtube with good info. Obviously u need to sort out the bullsh*t videos from the ones that actually work. The cell we made uses 12v and draws 8amps. Also when constructing your cell, the gap between the plates matters, less gap equals more gas. Running on straight HHO is possible and has been done before. And using HHO as a booster from what i have read and seen will for sure increase your MPG, but as for power gains there has been no reports of any. Dont think anyone with HHO has been dynoed before. But it would make sense to get some kind of gain, the hydrogen creates a more complete burn in the cylinder.

I cant wait to see some pics and video from your setup. Are you using plates or tubes? 12v? What is the total surface area of your cell? How many cells (pos+neg plates or tubes) are you using? Sorry to ask so many questions, im very interested. I have alot more questions also. And if you have any questions of your own feel free to ask, my cell is about to get installed in the car.

Sorry, but u might need to do a little more research. I am also in the finishing stages of building a HHO setup for my EA81 Hatch with plans of marketing. This definately does work and the HHO gas torch is bad a**.

Yeah, both sides. Thought about the heat idea before, when i sent the axles back to MWE he told me its not to much heat. If it was he would be able to tell by the boot. Somebody must not like me. I actually think i might have to sell my Hatch as much as i dont want to. I can no longer afford to fix it nor do i have the patience anymore.

So i really dont understand it, i can not figure out why i keep tearing inner cv boots. It doesnt make any sense and its really starting to drive me crazy. Pretty much everything is new on the front end. So im going to ask again and i want a straight answer, Will a bad alignment and bad rack cause the boots to rip? Ive already replaced the front 2 axles 4 times. Does anyone have any idea as to why this keeps happening? Am i totally thinking to hard and overlooking the obvious?

So the problem still remains. Got the new washers, torqued them down, everything was great for a day. Check the torque again and its tight as it can be. So my question is will a bad steering rack pop and make noise while i'm driving? I really don't think its the axles anymore, new washer new hubs new bearings, i don't see a problem but it still makes noise. I wish it would fall apart already so i would know exactly what the problem is instead of trying to figure it out. I only drove it for a day but can the much needed alignment be causing all my problems even after everything has been replaced?

Cool! so ive already ordered new cone washers from the dealer (not cheap!), but there on the way. I also already installed new wheel bearings which i also ordered from the dealer. They came in a set of 2 bearings and with 2 seals for $52. not bad considering the set with seals from kragens was about $6 cheaper. Combined with the new MWE axles, new remanufactured steering rack and new tie rod ends, new ball joints, new Energy suspension sway bar bushings, the only thing on the front end that has not been replaced are the struts and A-arm bushings, i think? Im trying to get the alignment good and the knocking/popping when i turn to either lock to stop. I probably spent more than i should have but it is my daily driver.

Is it a common problem for the spline in the axle hub to wear? The cv shows no sign of wear (new MWE). The once flat topped spline are now like sharp teeth. . . Also, how critical is the cone split-type centering washer? If its been installed and removed a few times and is a little smashed on the edges, will it effect the axle and wheel alignment?

Sounds good! I found quit a few Ea82 Power racks still in cars with the pump, brackets, hoses, and hardware needed. But im not sure if doing an EA82 power steering conversion is gonna be worth it. My hatch is a manual but its really not that hard to turn, at any speed. I dont know if the benefits of the power are really worth the time and effort. Unless i do come through with the plans to lift it 4'', im sure the power would make a big difference with bigger tires.

Is it in good shape? I do have the manual rack so that is what im looking for. Its for my 87 Hatch. I just dont think i have the transportation to get the 160 miles to you as of now. I might have to hit some local j/y and see if i can find a Ea81 manual rack, seems to be the harder one to get besides the power EA81 and EA82 racks.

So i went to get an alignment today and the guy at the shop told me my steering rack was going bad, loose. He said i could probably get away with replacing the inner joints. Is it worth just replacing the old rack joints or finding a used rack and replace the whole thing? New ones run like $250+, dont want to spend that much. Anybody got one they want to get rid of? Any suggestions?

Yes, aircraft engines are sealed with an aviation grade gasket maker rtv silicone that is approved by the FAA and meets Military Specifications and a thread that runs from one side of the case to the other along the inside of the bolt holes. They are also overhauled according to the specific manufacturers TBO (time before overhaul) which can range from a few hundred hours on up. And obviously if an oil leak is found, and a good shop is doing the maintenance, it is fixed properly. Oil not only lubricates the engine but also controls the pitch of the propeller on aircraft having an adjustable pitch prop. No, experimental aircraft are not held to the same regulations as certificated aircraft, thats why they are more dangerous. Experimental aircraft are usually homebuilt, a licensed A&P mechanic can build it from frame up, it must still be inspected by an Authorized Inspector and checked for airworthiness but its still a homebuilt, if u feel safe flying in it than go for it. Older Military aircraft that have been purchased by civilians are also in the Experimental category because that did not require a Type Certificate for military use.

So check this out, not done yet but its really close. My little creation! Today it will get heat treated and a coat of paint. I'll post up some more pics when its done.

What do u think about a solid mount instead of bushings?

If they can be purchased, where? And how do they come out? I used a press and they still wouldnt move.

Bump....

So i got the bar all straightened out as good as i can. And now im on to removing the bushings and finding replacements. Does anyone know where i can pick some up? I dont think there gonna have them at Kragens or Autozone, do i need to go to a dealer? And do the bushings just press out?

So check this out, pretty bent huh? Its the mustache bar off my 87 EA81 Hatch. Im not 100% sure but i think that this has been causing my car to pull to the left while driving. So the plan is to bend the bar back straight, and Fab up some tube to reinforce the original mustache bar. I think its gonna come out pretty clean, i got an idea of how its gonna look. More pics to follow when its done. Any suggestions?

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Im running a CCR EA81 with SPFI pistons and .030'' decked off the heads. I did an SPFI swap as well as GM alt swap, open element air cleaner, MSD ignition coil.... And on average i get about 28 mpg. It would probably be in the 30mpg range if i kept my foot out of it. I might be able to get a few more mpg out of it if i got a D/R 5 speed, but the d/r 4 speed as served me well on and off road. Ive asked before about what the estimated HP is but could never get a straight forward answer. Im guessing im pushing around 100hp range. The only way for a positive answer would be to get it to a dyno, but i dont think im gonna waste cash on that. All i know is that the butt-dyno tells me that the car has a whole lot more power over stock.

Cool, thanks for the info. I cant wait to try it out when i get my new axle back from MWE.