SuperNova

Was just wondering what type of mufflers people might be using on their EA81's. I have a Hatch and its hopefully just about to pass smog when i take it in this week, and after i want to put on a muffler thats not so restrictive but i dont want loud. Slight tone maybe. I was also wondering what everybody thinks about a cone filter on an EA81 with a spfi conversion. Have to buy a MAF adapter to fit a cone but i was just wondering if i should go with a cone filter or stick with the spfi airbox that is just sucking in air from the engine compartment and not a duct that pulls in air from the front of the car like the EA82 that i got the injection from. And if i should go with a cone, what type? I have heard non-oiled so i wont mess with the MAF, but i have also heard of people running K&N filters with no problems.

Ever had a problem with the Accel Super Stock Coils? I just got one for my 87 Hatch and i was told they are crap and i should find an original Hitachi.

Really? Well ive only had it on for one day. I have time to return it. What have been the problems with them in the past? And where do i get a Hitachi Coil? I know i cant just go to any local parts store.

So, i kinda feel like a retard. I was so caught up in that new SPFI sensors and possible problems, i didnt look to the super simple basics. I started tearing the top end apart starting with the MAF, and i ended up reading threw a few wiring diagrams and it made me remember that the ignition coil is wired to the fuel pump relay. And since i have been hearing the fuel pump itself change pitch, which i figured was a varying voltage problem, i tested the coil and wouldnt you know it, BAD COIL. Still made the car run, but crappy. It was a new coil when i did the SPFI swap, also a new cap and rotor, that were also pretty messed up. These parts have only been on for 5 maybe 6 months. Goes to show i should have never bought the cheap Kragens special parts just to get the car running. So i bought a Accel Super Stock coil, and i new cap and rotor, and she's back on the road. No problems, no stalling, voltage seems cool. It fuctuates when i turn the turn signals on with the blinking but i just figured that was normal. The only thing that kinda bugs me is that the idle isnt as smooth as i would like it. I cleaned the MAF, it was pretty clean to begin with. And im gonna clean and adjust the IAC, i cleaned it when i did the swap but never adjusted it, so that could be an issue. Any other thoughts?

Dude, im not trying to be an a**, you didnt know how to put your car in D-check and now your saying it learns by sitting there idling. Ive just been trying to help you out. You ECU learns while you drive, its constantly adapting to conditions and how heavy your foot is on the pedal. Letting it sit and idle is not going to help it to learn. All the sensors put out different signals from idle to higher rpm, and the ecu compensates for this. It Learns! But dont just take it from me, do a little more reading and research, thats all ive been doing for 3 weeks now because of the problems with my car. Find the FSM, the link is on USMB somewhere posted by General Disorder. Again, all ive been trying to do is help.

I'll try disconnecting the O2 sensor. When its cold it doesnt do it because the choke keeps it running at a higher idle, if i kick the choke down it will slowly die. And it dies whenever i come to a stop and let it idle. I'll clean the MAF, this was done when i did the conversion but i'll check it and do it again. I also have the FSM so ill follow the TPS testing procedures. It never usually has trouble starting, but this morning it would not start, i figured that it was because i flashed the ECU yesterday and did not drive it around. Maybe, Maybe not!?!

Well, it can mean a few things. When you are in D-check it means that there are no problems present in the system (its not throwing any codes). If the whole procedure was done correctly.

True, but the ECU is a learning computer. It adjusts and learns the way you drive and makes everything run better miles down the road. So if you clear everything, it may not run right until you go for a drive.

Well, thats not exactely the proper way to reset the codes! You actually need to put it in "Clear Memory Mode". 1st warm up the car. Turn the ignition off, and plug in both the Test mode connector(green) and the Read memory connector(white or clear). Turn the ignition on (engine off) and if your CEL turns on, push your gas pedal to the floor then let off to half throttle for 2 seconds then completely let off and start the car. If the CEL goes out, drive the car above 5mph for at least 1 minute above 1,500rpm and if your CEL blinks then it worked and your codes are clear. Turn off your car and unplug both connectors. And if you still have a light than your ecu is throwing a code. I know this is confusing but this is the proper way to reset your code memory. This procedure is straight out of the Subaru Service Manual. Also unplugging your battery does reset the ECU, this is called "flashing". But you dont just disconnect the battery, push and hold the brake pedal to drain the internal ecu memory battery. You only have to hold it for a minute or so. 30 sec usually works for me. This is to completely reset the ECU, not just clear codes. And if you still need to know how to put the ecu in D-check, let me know. Hope this info has helped!

OK, so, ive checked the wires coming from the coolant temp sensor to the main harness plugs and tested the sensor itself. The sensor was within limits and the wiring was fine. So now the problem is getting worse, it dies whenever i come to a stop and let it idle. Also, when i can get it going if i push the gas pedal to far it will act like its going to stall out but as soon as i let off it will keep running and i can only accelerate if i push on it slowly. Flashing the ECU no longer has an effect on the problem, it used to clear it up for a while but now its always there. Im guessing it might be the MAF or TPS sensors. Anybody have any suggestions??

So, i finally got around to check the resistance on the coolant temp sensor. And its within factory specs. ( @ 68 degrees F = 2-3 K Ohms & @ 122 degrees F = 700-1000 Ohms). So back to the drawing board. Anybody have any other suggestions on what the problem could be??

Ok, well what type of alt did you have? I have a new, not reman, GM alt hooked to an Optima red top that i have tested a few times to be positive that they are not part of the issue. I Am pretty sure i dont have a problem with the charging system. Thats why i figured voltage regulator and thought i would post to see if anyone has had the same problems also.

Yeah, well good idea but already thought of that. Actually with the new SPFI conversion i just did, i went through everything at the same time. So everything is pretty much new under the hood to the gauges and ecu. Its not something so simple or i would have found the problem by now. But thanks for trying.

Its a brand new GM alternator and its charging at the battery 14+ volts. So i know its not the ALT.

So when im driving around i notice that the volts gauge goes up and down quite a bit from about 14 to around 10 or lower and nothing is on. I also noticed that i can heard the fuel pump change pitch with the voltage drop or increase. I have an EA81 with a SPFI conversion and a GM Alternator Swap, so i know i have plenty of power. I was thinking it could possibly be the voltage regulator but im not sure. And i figured i would ask and see if anybody knows whats up or has had this problem before.

Yeah, im guessing you have a feedback carb setup. The ECS is the CEL of the carbed models.

My custom mount with KC DayLighters.

Thats awesome, thanks for the post. I was wondering what you pull or what is the most weight you have pulled with the hatch? I'm planning on pulling a 400 lb. trailer with a 425 lb. quad on it. So 825 lbs. or so.

So, ive been thinking lately about try to fab up a 1'' reciever on the back of my hatch to pull a small trailer. What does everybody think about that? Has anybody ever done or have thought about doing this? This would also include upgrading to stiffer rear shocks. And i would at most pull 1000 lbs.

So, thats a pretty good start, but i got to tell you that you should probably loose the blow-off valve. Your actually loosing Horsepower and creating more lag, the stock subaru recirculating system is awesome. And you really dont need the BOV unless you have a bigger turbo.

Ok, lets try this again. I went to AutoZone and had them look up the sensor, they found the exact one i need but its $97. So i asked for the MPFI Turbo model sensor which is supposed to work just have 2 pin connectors instead of wires and a plug. It was $20 but it was the same one that i got from Kragens that i posted a pic of. So this is where im at, any ideas? Dont really want to spend 100 bucks on this.

Got it covered. This is a bad a** pic. Dont think anybody but you would ever do this to a WRX..... Best part is i tied them down and we flew home on a windy road and they didnt move an inch.

yeah, there was 2 on top but i took the pic after i took 1 down. Its so much nicer driving with it on top then inside the hatch though. And since i had a a few miles to drive i got people starring for days. Probably laughing too!

OK, cool, thanks for clearing that up a bit but when i went to get the new one from kragens they only had 2 sensors, 1 with 2 pins (the one i picked up) and 1 with only 1 pin (which i figured was for the gauge). Do you know of any part # or autoparts store that might have this??

From what ive been told the gauge sensor is a single wire and the ecu uses 2 wires. Is this wrong? Is the sensor in the intake right below the thermostat housing on a 90 Loyale, not in the housing itself?