wes200x

Not sure if this is the correct place to put this but if anyone has a Xt6 they are parting out I am looing for the crossmember out of a manual trans. Doing a STI conversion and this is one of the last parts I need. Thanks

Great build I was wondering what brand and part number are the spherical bearings you went with Looking to make a set of my own for an RX build. And by chance do you have the part number for the 2015 sti pillow bushing thanks. Great work agian.

Here are a couple ansers to some of the replies I have read. My block does not have the cover or the castings in the case to run the 3rd vent it is completely different than the turbo block. Also you can not split a ea82 block without first removing the wrist pins. The base of the pistons will hit the main journals in the case.

yes I was talking about the 3rd pcv vent. I was worried cause I know turbo motors usually produce a little more blowby and not only do those vents go to the pcv but they also vent crank case pressure. I just thought there might be an issue with 2 much positive crankcase pressure without the 3rd vent. thanks for the responce

Okay I am on spring break so it is time to put a motor together. I took 3 motors apart and the best block is a carbureted block that I had before the car went turbo. My question is will I have any ill effects of putting turbo pistons in a NA block. I noticed the NA block does not have the 3rd blow by passage on the back of the motor. I know people have run the entire short block with NA pistons, So I just wondered if anyone has thought about this or do some NA blocks have the 3rd blowby passage. Thanks for all feedback

Yes I understand that the bolt are not torque to yeild, but some of the bolts had pretty bad pitting and I would think that it would affect the strength of the bolt. Also I have looked at a buch of websites and now one list the head bolts. And a lot of the sites will show the part if you have the part number.

I called my local subaru dealer to get some new head bolts for my RX:banghead: . He could not fing the bolts. He said if I got the part number he could get them. Any help would be great.

Well the number on one of my bearings is NTN 4T-CR1-0683. But there is no number on the race. The race intsself is one piece for both bearings that I'm sure was specially made for subaru. So I don't think you will be able to get it from your local bearing shop. Hope this helps

It deffinately runs beter with the intercooler especialyy on the freeway. I found going up hills in 5th it doesn't tke near the boost. Also using the spider intake and computer made the thing idle smooth as silk.

Since I used the serpentine belts I had to use the power steering pump out of the xt. But I forgot to get the xt lines. The xt resevoir is different which needs different lines. But the stock resevoir bolted onto the xt pump but it make it sit a little different. No problems yet.

I got this rx a while back for 500 bucks. So far I have installed inter cooler fuel pressure regulator BOV spider intake matching xt computer turbo timer zero sport air diverter gauages steering wheel not yet installed emanage ultimate 5 lug swap Also if steveman09 sees this I have some ?'s on install. I wanted to see what engine code he is using in emanage software.

I don't know if this helps but my rx was having a similar problem. just before it went on to boost it had a surge shutter then cleared up. It almost felt like the clutch slipped then grabbed again. My car also had a crappy idle. It idled really low or at about 1100. Well it turned out to be a leaking injector. Yesterday I replaced all 4 and now it is perfect. Idles is smooth as silk and no more shutter before boost.

I was down at my local pick a part in san diego california and there was a pretty nice xt6 manual AWD. all I want is the sway bars. Everything else was there including 4 good motion wheels with center caps. 5 lug conversion etc. Also it had a good dash trim. I go down once a week so if anyone needs something let me know. Also in a couple weeks it is 50% off day at that yard. so parts could be cheap.

I would say go with the goodyear as long as they are the gatorback and not their cheaper model. Just don't use the Autozone brand duralast I think is the name. worthless. Gatorback belts are great.

I just purchased a personal steering hub off ebay for 29 bucks. It comes with the pins to turn the turn signal off. Fits great and fits nardi or personal steering wheels which I must say are very nice and look just like a momo. You can buy an adapter to go from personal to momo bolt pattern. the part #4702 or old code #5910. very nice part. Hope this helps I love mine

is there any way to smog this thing

Well I kind of put this up as a joke. But if you could get enough people together man it would be nice. As for General Disorder I don't expect you to buy all 250 sets. Besides a set of these gaskets would be alot cheaper than to oring the block have a custom set of copper gaskets made and then with your fingers crossed hope that you will get all the water and oil ports sealed.

I spoke to cometic gaskets the other day because they produce custom gaskets. He said he would make the dyes to make MLS or multi layer steel gaskets if he could get an order for 500 pcs. thats 250 engines. I know its alot but the end result would be amazing. With multi layer steel you can stack the inner part of the gasket to make thinner or thicker gaskets. Perfect to get the carbered block down a littler on compression for a turbo motor. This was for the ea82 motor.

Okay from looking at OEM manuals the turbo trans does run a taller ring gear the 3.7 but the gear ratios in the trans are lower so I think it pretty much works out to be the same. I am in southern california and I might be interested in selling the old trans once I get the new one in. As for the post that the turbo dual range only came in the rx. My manual shows that the d/r also came in the 87 gl-10. I wanted to see if anyone has tried both. It seems like 1st gear with the non turbo trans is very short. I wondered if the ratios in the turbo trans suit the higher horsepower engine better.

I have a 1986 subaru gl wagon that I installed a turbo motor from a 87 gl10. I am still using the non turbo 5 speed d/r out of the 1986. With 265,000 miles on the trans it is on its way out. So what trans should i get to replace it. Sould I try the turbo dual range trans. I noticed in the manual that the gear ratios are different. I saved the 3.7 ratio rear end out of the turbo car so I have it if I want to change to the turbo tranny. Also I have a set of axles off the turbo so I have the 25 spline front axles. There is a subaru with the full time 4wd d/r trans and a regular non turbo d/r both with low miles at my local junk yard. What is the best for performance.

It sounds like the oil squirters are stock on some ej22t and that you can purchase the squirters from the dealer no idea on the price.

are the oil sprayers that are in the subaru block available. What did they come out of. Where did you get the pics of the sprayers in the ej block they would be the perdon to talk to

Hey everyone, I have been doing some research on larger mass air flow sensors and it seems that the older 300zx maf might work. It has the same plug and it uses the burnoff wire like the 87-90 subaru maf. The only thing I am still looking for is the output voltage range on the sensor. If the output range is the same it should work and it is a full centimeter larger in diameter. Does anyone have a manual for the older 300z years 84-89 and I think the 280z have the same maf. Any help would be apritiated.

Okay I have read the other thread on the xt6 throttle body and have decided I want to try this. I have an extra turbo spyder intake and I just got a xt6 throttle body off ebay. One thing I have noticed is that the throttle body does not have the idle adjustment and the fast idle adjustment. Did I get the propper throttle body from the guy. Is the xt6 different than the xt spider throttle body. What are the differences and how to get around not having the idle adjustment. Or is their some other year xt6 trhottle body that is more like the xt spider throttle body.

I hate to give you bad news but I could not get the super afc to function properly. The problem is that the super afc is only good for maf meter that go from 0-5v and the older subaru's go above 5v. It will work great until you get to about 4000rpm's and it will go lean because the super afc holds the output at 5v no more. Hey if you can figure out a way to put extra fuel in after this point it can act like a fuel cut defencer. Since it holds the output voltage at 5v it will not hit the fuel cut. I would recomend a air fuel meter to be hooked up in the car and watch it closely. I talked to a guy at apexi and he confirmed this. You can also look on the f&q section of their website and find similar information. I have had some luck with the hks super afr however.