blaze

Look on the bright side, you fixed Blu's problem with a 20 dollar oil change a couple of days ago? Hang in there

Thats what I read, but where did you get your spec's (information) to prove there is a difference between Bosch O2 bought at NAPA is without doubt inferior (lesser quaility) to a Bosch O2 bought at the dealer? This fourm is filled with knowledgable members, and alot of the info put out usually can be backed up with some hard core facts, except these threads about BOSCH O2 vs BOSCH O2 ? As you well know Nipper, this could be debated forever on which one to use. My question still isn't answered, where would I find proof to show there is a difference

I looked through the threads couldn't find anything to prove that Bosch Aftermarket O2 Sensors are not up to the specs of Subaru OEM? Not saying I'm buying anything here, just like to see hard facts. I am a fan of OEM, usually the quality is far superior than aftermarket Junk. But these are the same Mfr ? Can anyone steer me to a web site where I can read Bosch sells better quality to some but not others? Boy I bet this will open a can of worms

THANKS FOR THE INFO.

Will these wires fit my 98 OBW 2.5

Futher troubleshooting:cool: (HAYNES manual 7J8-89100, page 12-31) Thanks to this Fourm and its members it sure makes it easier and faster. Located the ele connector for the fuel pump right where you said it was. However the Gen II wire color is Red/YEL, its the top middle wire on the connector. I grounded out the wire and sure enough the LOW FUEL LIGHT CAME ON So now I know its probably the thermistor, or open circuit going to it within the fuel pump housing? Also keep in mind for those reading this if you ground out the wire it will turn on your check engine light and generate a high temp fuel DTC which is normal. THANKS SKIP:headbang:

OK, I'll check for voltage. Thanks

Nice, what bells and whisles did it come with?

Yup, its up to him how much money he wants to spend:rolleyes: I'm just letting him know how much a BRAND NEW SUBARU short block cost me , so he can compare it to a used short block. Not sure if he can get it for the same price as I did? I wouldn't pay for a used block, used crank, and used pistons in a block that might have been missed treated (overheated) for the same price of a brand new one out of the box just 10 miles up the road, with no shipping charge, and Mfr Warrenty. Also a new one has a nice smooth surface to bolt up the head gaskets to (less likely to leak). I did look into buying a used one myself. But with shipping it was going to cost almost the same as new. So for me it was a no brainer. However I can also say CCR was my 1st choice for rebuilt, I did call them a couple of times and talked with them. Great people, they have alot knowledge, and are eager to share it.

Bought my BRAND NEW Ej25 (short block) for my 98 OBW 5sp, at the dealer (NOV 07) for: Genuine Subaru Short Block = 1750.00 OEM OIL PUMP = 100.00 OEM WATER PUMP = 70.00 TOTAL = 1920 BUCKS OIL PAN was 55.00 You will need to order one coolant plug on the bottom , it comes with all the others? I think it is the one next to the oil filter? It cost around 3 bucks. Also will need a oil pan, mine was fine ( an easy external part to replace later if i had to) I just sand blasted the outside and painted it. No core charge so you keep your old block for parts or sell it to someone who wants to rebuild it?

Update, drained tank down to E again. Light still refuses to illuminate Must be that thermistor

Thats exactly the way I plan to replace the system. Front o2, then 2nd O2, then the cats. Thanks

Thanks again, I don't know how many miles are on the cat? It came with the OBW when I bought it USED. Far as I know it has 200,000 miles? I do know all the heat shields have been removed, and the exhuast parts have Subaru stamped on them. I'm looking at replacing the exhuast system with OEM soon, along with o2 sensors.

Its a INNOVA 3100a , Web site http://www.CanOBD2.com. There are all types and models at there web site. You can buy this one now for 129.00 bucks at Sears, or WalMart for 98 bucks here in Maine. Cheapest one at this Walmart is just a INNOVA reader for around 60 bucks (less bells and whistles than the 3100a). The 3100a comes with a USB cable and software to link it up to your computer and down load info ,as you see in my original post. INNOVA 3100a - Its a plug and play, 15 sec conn, all in one display, definitions (don't need to look up code), Freeze Frame, Internet upgradable, Erase code, Auto link, Memory, PC-Link, Shop Report, 11 Emission Monitors .

Already tried that, thanks for the help. I'm thinking the same as Nipper, time to replace the o2 sensor.

Looks and feels like it just came out of the showroom :-p

What is the mileage anyway? nipper 200,000 miles, I plan on getting a new o2 sensor 1st

YUP, been tagged with the P0420 DTC Found a small leak downstream at the Mid pipe flange with the Muffler section, no leaks upstream of the Cats. My CanOBD2 Code Reader pulled the following data: Report#: 1 Report Date: 1-17-2008 (5:47 PM) Vehicle Year: 1998 Vehicle Make: Subaru Vehicle Model: LEGACY, OUTBACK Vehicle Engine Size: 2.5 Vehicle VIN: Vehicle License Plate: Vehicle Mileage: Stored: P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) Pending: P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) MIL ON MisFire Monitor Complete Fuel System Monitor Complete Comprehensive Component Monitor Complete Catalyst Monitor Complete Heated Catalyst Monitor Not Supported Evaporative System Monitor Complete Secondary Air System Monitor Not Supported A/C System Refrigerant Monitor Not Supported Oxygen Sensor Monitor Complete Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor Complete EGR System Monitor Complete DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P0420 Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop Fuel System 2 Status Not Supported Calculated LOAD Value 14.51 % Engine Coolant Temp 183.20 °F Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 1.56 % Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 4.69 % Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 12.99 inHg Engine RPM 2275 rpm Vehicle Speed Sensor 49.71 mph

Bought a Honda Civic once that sat for over a year. The guy said it ran fine when parked, but after a year it wouldn't start? When I got it home and pulled the panel to get access to the fuel pump, it had a huge field mouse nest right on top of it. The mice urine had rusted out the wire contact to the pump. Soldered on a new terminal and was good to go. Not saying this is your problem but storing this car did make the fuel pump go bad.

Check those PVC hoses also, the 2.5 I rebuilt in Nov, had huge amount of oil sludge in them blocking off the hose. I ran a small bottle brush through them to clean them out. Oh Yea, the PVC valve was stuck shut like these guys are telling you to check for.

OK, I pulled the dash apart. Checked all the lights, seems to be 3 types, Brown, Black, and Grey. Brown ones illuminate the panel. Black ones illuminate the warning lights(oil-batt-abs-seat belt-CEL, etc). The only one that is different is the Low Fuel Light? Its color is grey (and states this on the circuit card along with 6.5 an arrow pointing to the socket hole), and different in size than any other ones. Seems like there pretty proud of this light, has its own color, unique size, and a name tag on the circuit board. The Low Fuel Bulb is the only one to fail the continuity test. After cleaning the contacts, I applied power and it and it illuminated Its now been reinstalled and waiting to empty a full tank. I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

OOPS, You are correct, Forgot about the gallon I put in to get it to the gas station 3 miles down the road. That would be about 15.9 gallon Still not sure what number your exactly looking for? Miles to empty the full tank? (420) Miles after reaching E on gauge? (40) My gas mileage? (26mpg) Can't tell you when the the gas light comes on, still inop.

14.8 gallons? Is this the number you looking for?

Ran it out of gas today. After reading a couple of threads about gas gauges being way off, I wanted to know how accurate mine was, along with fixing the low fuel light. I carried a gas can with me, and after reaching the Empty mark, then a hair lower, it bottomed out. Then went about 30 miles before it sucked air. Can't believe it went dry 10 feet from my garage door At least I didn't have to stand on the side of the road. After 30 years of driving this is the first time I ever ran out of gas even though it was intentional. Anyway the light did not come on? So maybe the bulb is blown or the unit in the gas tank is inop? :-\