ferox
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Posts posted by ferox
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Also, if you are not the original owner of the car, then a previous owner may have used Bar's Radiator Stop Leak or similar product which are widely known to block or severely restrict the small coolant passages of the heater core in the ea81s and ea82s, not sure on the EJs. If this is the case, then the only fix is to replace the heater core. So if you check everything and flush everything and nothing seems to work, then you might consider replacement.
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Have you tried charging the battery? What is the battery voltage with no load on it? Did you have your alt tested? If your alternator is weak or going out it can keep the car going for a while even though the battery isn't being charged adequately and can slowly drain it until it does what you describe. Tons of automotive issues are misdiagnosed because of a bad battery, which can really be a bad alt or starter, etc.
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That is exactly what I did to my Brat. I have the whole legacy front suspension on the Brat and then the 2.2T dropped right in like she was supposed too. Plus, the Brat is lifted 4 inches too.
You can't just say that to us. Where are the photos?
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Have you ever changed the engine and transmission mounts?
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I'm not sure why people even use pickle forks first when the puller designed for removing tie-rod ends are usually less money ~$6-$10 or about the same and do not destroy the boot. That's what I do...buy the cheap puller.
I have also never popped the tre to change a wheel bearing. Robm (#10) mentions the control arm pivot bolt, which is the preferred method.
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If the loyale is a 5 speed 4wd i would swap that in and take all the spfi parts off the ea82. Then get a ea81 short block and swap on the spfi. The wheels would swap over. Rear brakes maybe. Front brakes would work with the right mix of ea82 and ea81 parts and extended radius rods.
This is probably what I would do, or something similar, except that I would look around for a D/R 5MT to rebuild and eventually replace the S/R of the '92 Loyale. If the Loyale is AT, then I wouldn't bother. I like original, but I love modern features like FI, especially if the vehicle is to be driven rather than just looked at.
However, as you probably know, the ea82 front calipers are larger and require the ea82 wheels to clear. EA81 wheels won't fit on an ea82 for that reason even though the white-spokes look almost identical.
I like building my cars so I can use parts off the shelf, so that means I am more oriented toward new gen EJ stuff when it comes to customizing older Subarus, but I doubt an EJ would fit in that engine bay, certainly not without a lift or some serious customization. I love old things, but I don't like putting a lot of work into something functional when I know I will have a hard time finding replacement parts now and especially in the future. If I just want to look at it, that's a different story.
I'm not into the ea82 engine, but I really like the look and ruggedness of the Loyale. They are getting scarce quickly, so I would be more inclined to lift and EJ the Loyale with either a D/R 5MT or 4EAT and find a '93-'95 Impreza with a EJ18 and do a complete swap over of all the EJ suspension, running gear & brakes, engine, and trans. into/onto the '76.
It looks like the '76 is significantly skinnier than just about everything newer, so wheelbase going to be a factor if you want to swap out running gear from just about anything newer. This is of course easy for me to say (that's a lot of time and effort), but that '76 is cool and would be worth the work. It also depends on how much you want to keep it and drive it.
Way more opinion than you asked for, but that '76 is damn cool and it looks like it's in salvageable condition.
[i'm also super jealous of that car hauler, so much waaaant]
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'86 GL
Anyone running a Weber have a clean tailpipe? Mines always sooty. Everything is tuned correctly and jets are what they are supposed to be.
Thought I would inquire.....
All the ea82s I've known have burned a little oil, especially once they get a few miles on them. Considering that it runs as it should and your plugs look correct, I would be more inclined to attribute the soot to trace build-up of burned oil.
Weber tuning can be a little touchy, but it sounds like the only way you are going to improve your tune over it's current state is with a wideband O2 sensor as hatchsub mentioned.
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Welcome Pat.
What kind of parts are you looking for?
This is a site for builders, so no one is going to give you a hard time. Personally, I've been wanting to swap Subaru gear under a VW Scirocco, Volvo, and/or Toyota Starlet for years. I don't have much use for 2WD vehicles, but there are some cool ones out there, so making them AWD or 4WD may happen for me in the future.
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so I have the heads off and am currently in process of cleaning everything and I found something interesting. For some reason I have no valve stem seals on my intake valves, only on my exhaust valves. Is this the way it is supposed to be?
It should be the other way around on an EA81 [as described earlier by ihscout54]. Valve stem seals on the intake valves but not on the exhaust valves. Don't mean to question you, but are you sure you are looking at them correctly? Exhaust valves in the middle of the head, intakes on the ends.
RE: post #61: Not sure if you removed your engine to remove the heads, but I always recommend removing the radiator before removing a Subaru engine.
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I haven't had any particularly destructive ones, but I do remember leaving a rag in the intake manifold during a carb rebuild years ago and forgetting to take it out before re-installation. Not a huge deal, but I am a bit obsessive about my carb installs, so it was more of a chore than anything. Troubleshooting the carb at that point was VERY frustrating until I removed the carb to pull it apart and clean it again. I was SUPER pissed until I figured it out then I was even more pissed (and relieved) at my stupidity. Luckily it was packed in there tight or it would have been sucked into a valve or something. I don't drink as much alcohol when I work on cars as I used to...
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That is a notable score. Well done. You made your money back or more with every single extra item you listed. Do you think you can title it?...that wagon body looks nice and I really like that color.
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I like to modify my cars so the parts fit off the shelf. I did the GM 100 amp swap about 8 years ago and have never regretted it. They're all good options that all require a little modding. It might depend on whether you would rather make a custom spacer and swap pulleys when you replace alts in the future (Nissan/XT6) or mod the alt bracket (GM) and bolt on the alt out of the box.
Also, the tools and skills you have available can be a factor. I have a welder and angle grinder but no belt sander (or equivalent), so it's only takes me a few minutes to cut and weld the alt bracket but making a spacer to the level of quality I accept, and swapping pulleys would take a lot longer and be a lot more work...for me.
It would be hard to go wrong with any of the options. I think you stand a far better chance of finding the GM alt in LAPSs throughout the country versus the Nissan/XT6 options, and there are a massive amount of aftermarket options with various levels of output and quality for the GM. Not an endorsement per se, but those are factors I considered.
Either way you'll love having adequate electrical. As far as I am concerned it's a mandatory upgrade on EA81s.
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Someone did an amazing dash repair thread on here a few years ago. It's here somewhere. I remember he used some plastic welding rod, and I believe he also included a link to a BMW 2002 dash repair thread. It was impressive, and not expensive.
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balloons
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I would be surprised if you could find a bowl vent solenoid diaphragm from anywhere but a junkyard or a member on this forum. I don't believe they are available new.
To repair the (common) anti-dieseling solenoid wire, cut back the insulation at the brass fitting and solder the wire. I also put spade connectors on the wire so I can easily disconnect them whenever I unscrew the solenoid.
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What's your ignition timing set at?
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Yep, bearing spacer, which is different and arguably less important than the conical spacer so make sure those are in good shape.
If I remember correctly, the 2WD front struts will swap but are a different length than the 4WD, and I believe the 2WD top strut mount is rotated 180 degrees to the 4WD or some such.
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Check the wires that go to the distributor. Check the whole length between the disty and firewall. They are known for cracked insulation that can lead to intermittent spark issues.
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It sounds like the conical spacers for the front hubs might be shot (or missing), or the CV castle nut is not being torqued down adequately. The '82 stuff should work, but make sure you use the two nicest conical spacers and the two hubs with the nicest conical spacer seat and splines.
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The Haynes manual has excerpts from the Factory Service Manual (as usual), but really what you want is the actual FSM if you plan on working on it and keeping it for a while.
I don't disagree with KiwiGL about the new exhaust system, but if you are going to spend the money to have someone build a new exhaust you might as well spend the money on an EJ swap. The ea82 is not a bad engine, but it's the transition engine between the EA81 and EJ22, as such it is the proverbial turd of the bunch (relatively speaking). If it runs well, then I would rebuild a carb just like you plan to do, but I would not put much money into polishing because there is no way to really bump up power from the EA82 in any considerable way without doing something ridiculous and expensive. A new exhaust system will put you halfway to a complete EJ swap (~$1,000 total). Way more power, better mileage, way less maintenance, easy junkyard parts, and much better dependability. There are mechanics in Portland that will do the swap, but I do not know what they charge.
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Is it manual transmission or auto?
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Welcome. You need an EJ swap for more power and reliability, and EA81 is carbed unless you do an SPFI swap. EJ22 is the way to go. Search for EJ swap. That should get you where you need to be.
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I am guessing a Sambar camper is too small. I was set on a Westy for the longest time, but I finally went with a 2003 Chev Astro AWD (16-20 mpg). Since I live in hipsterville, Westys are kind of expensive here because everyone wants one. So that was a big factor for me...I don't like camping vehicles to be precious. I also insist on either 4WD or AWD, so another factor, and the Astro came with a factory rear lsd. Since the last Westy was built in '91, I figure some parts are going to get hard to find soon. The last Astro was built in 2005, so they are on their way to becoming old, but there are tons of them on the road and in the JYs still and they were built on the Chevy 3/4 ton truck platform so many of the Chevy truck parts swap over. However, the Astro is not a camper conversion, so it's a project. One other consideration for me was safety. The Westy just doesn't have much up front. I like the airbags and more substantial mass of the front of the Astro.
Not trying to discourage you from the Westy, these are just some of the considerations I had before I purchased my van. I still really like Westys, but I doubt I will ever own one.
A couple of my relatives have Roadtrek conversion vans (13-15 mpg). They are really nice, and as far as I can tell, they are the smallest RV that has a toilet. For that matter, you can buy any van you like and have it converted to a camper.
I don't expect you to go for an Astro but if you want to look around, make sure you are looking at the 2003-2005 MYs. There were many desirable upgrades to the Astro/Safari line in 2003.
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I think this is an interesting proposition. My '82 Jeep full-size Wagoneer has a ridiculously huge hood. I always hated the blind spot it front. At one point I modified the suspension and it produced a positive/forward rake to the vehicle and the difference in visibility in front was remarkable. I didn't realize until then, that the blind spot was slightly stressing me out a little bit but not enough to notice until it was gone. Having that extra visibility up front just made the car more comfortable to drive. So I think modifying the hood would be nice for all driving conditions, not just offroad. Something I am going to keep in mind when I start to mod my Impreza.
I think dropping the front of the hood by 2" would be similar to the change I experienced when I changed the rake on my Jeep, and if so, I will testify that it makes a big difference. The distance between the driver and the front edge of the Wagoneer hood is definitely much longer than on a Subaru, but I don't think the rake produced a 2" drop of the hood.
[Your Brat looks pretty badass. More pics?]
My Dually Brat
in Members Rides
Posted
Interesting, I think I like it. I certainly commend your dedication to the mod. The interior treatment looks nice. I'd like to see some more pictures of the whole Brat.
So what did you do mechanically? Not trolling for criticism, just curious.