nutt7

if your coil works like the ea82 coil, make sure the ig. amp is grounded too. Its the small cylinder in line with one of the wires coming off the coil. It is supposed to be grounded on the coil bracket. I believe it has two prongs coming out of the cylinder that slide under the bracket bolt...may be a far shot but it would be worth looking at hope this helps

thanks fellas...i do plan on ordering an oil pressure gauge very soon I think I will try the fuel line with hose clamps and see how it holds since I already have most of that stuff laying around. (including the fittings) I figure if my fuel lines are holding strong with clamps, these should be ok too...I think I will wait til I get a gauge though because a broken alt belt severed my factory idiot light wire and this is my daily driver soooo i will play it safe. I also have a nice rubber grommet to route the hoses through so I think the hoses should hold up

I bought a dsm oil cooler with lines and fittings that bolted right up to my sandwich adapter. I hooked it all up, but one of the hard lines was cracked, and the lines were a little long for my liking, so I have to make my own, and I have a few q's -is 1/2 in a good size for the hoses? what size do you use? -the guy at the store told me fuel lines would work ok...is this true? I dont believe it is fuel injection hose either. just regular fuel line. -what kind of pressure do our ea82t's see anyway? (i have digidash so I dont know) thanks in advance

I also extend the welcome. thats cool that we have an international community here

subyrally, what IC did you get? the bov I have is from a firts gen dsm (eclipse/laser/talon/galant vr4) and does not mount on the IC it is teamed with

think a master or slave cylinder could be giving out? sometimes when a seal starts to go the brake fluid can seep past it causing a lack of pressure that you feel with the soft pedal.

i paid $35 for mine. check ebay type in 1g bov

it does look more like a vent...makes more sense that way too

the cooler, the more efficient. heat causes metal to crack, oil to go bad faster, hoses to die faster, etc. everything will last longer the exhaust side of the turbo is where most of the heat is, thats why only that side is being cooled, if they were both encased in that chimney, more of that heat would probably find its way to the charge side, potentially causing problems (ie less power, knocking) does this help?

and remember, when cooking brakes, never use the ebrake soon after to park...will cause warpage!!!

Charge $5 a whack with a hammer or bat to fund your wagon just kidding...no but serious...

the new ford lightning uses ac to cool off charge air...they say its like a kick in the pants when it turns on...this has been done before too but with r12, which can be dangerous if it leaks into the engine, so I hear. so they 86ed that plan for production. r134 is safer, so I guess its ok now

I saw one at the jy. I might just retrofit that to my wagon...I have a vent right there too.

If you get one, it should be the recirculating type which are not very loud...if you get the the ones that blow off to atmosphere, your fuel management thinks that the air blown off is still in there and dumps too much fuel between shifts and could cause drivability to suffer, unless you buy some $fancy$ turbo management equipment besides, with factory boost you dont really need one anyhoo, your throttle body has a way to vent the excess pressure for stock boost. you should do some other mods first, IMO...intake, exhaust, IC, etc I do have a spare 1g dsm bov if interested...it may go on ebay, as I need the cash now eric

cool...thanks guys, I might try to make it work, but there may be a reason its off now :-p

86 turbo 4wd wagon. where my clutch cable attaches to the tranny, there is another cable, which is not attached, just floating there, that appears to go to a device (looks like a cast aluminum piece) below the brake booster. there are what look to be brake lines going into it...what is it and what does it do? thanks in advance

congrats on the car! to check your coolant sensor you should disconnect the wire clip (sensor stands vertical, on the back side of the intake mani, passenger side, its kinda down there a ways) and with an ohm meter, fix the probes on the sensor leads and, with a cold engine, start it and monitor the resistance. It will decrease as engine temp increases...i will post the actual values later, unless someone else knows them, but without a water temp gauge that actually shows temp, it will be tough to judge. more times then not, from what Ive read, its just the connection at the clip that needs to be cleaned with electric contact cleaner. (try this first) hope this helps! eric

your old pads may be worn in a different way and they arent sitting squarely on the rotor...I second the idea of roughing up the pads and rotors...also once when I was changing brakes, from pushing the pistons into the calipers for clearance, my brake fluid overflowed and I had to add some...I assume you checked the brake fluid level, if not check it out. It might only be that

this idea may be dumb, but you said any ideas so here goes...try pulling the return hose from the bov and plugging it at the intake, so it blows to atmosphere. this should take 'x' amount of air out of the equation between shifts and upon the 1-2 shift you will start out a little more rich, due to the maf thinking there is more air in there...this may help determine if it is a lack of fuel problem. sound plausible?

I used the same technique danbob did when mine broke...both for the 'stud' in the head and the bolt stuck in the intake mani...if there is not enough room to grip the stud in the head, try taking a dremel and notching a 'flathead' for a screwdriver. I carefully wire brushed it and used lots of that pb stuff and it wasnt too tough...getting the boly out of the manifold...that tested my patience

check the plug for the bulb...clean it if there are signs of corrosion. or follow the wires and check for obvious damage. check for a good voltage signal with a meter if you have one. sometimes you just have to wiggle the wires around and see if the light turns on...then you know where the problem is...hope this helps eric

I finally ditched the AC from my wagon, and due to the condenser coil being out from in front of the radiator, the car runs a little cooler, plus I pulled out like 30 lbs of metal, including the rotational mass of what feels to be an 8-10 lb ac pulley... the thing now is I only have 1 belt. it runs the alt, ps, and water pump. is this sufficient? it looks like it holds enough tension on everything. I guess time will tell. anyone else running 1 belt? since the condenser is out, I also have plenty of room for my oil cooler . to be installed soon... eric

ask WJM about the throttle body...last I knew he was toying around with the idea of an xt6 TB...dont know what happened with it... my personal opinion for the IC would be to leave it as a top mount...im a fan of hood scoops (functional ones), plus it keeps the plumbing nice and short, which leads to better efficiency, unless the efficiency of a fmic exceeds the efficiency of shorter plumbing...i dont know.

sounds to me that it will lock up all four (or try to) due to the 4wd diff...I think it will only work if you go with the awd tranny like you said

Holy cow! nice work...your hardwork shows . so that td04 spools up ok huh? is it more of a gradual spool than stock? sounds like it kicks in at the same time as stock...bet it sounds better too.