lostinthe202

That's the coolest thing I've seen this month. I wish I had the know-how to have someone pay ME to do that!! Will-

I would actually want to drop the front or raise the rear, but probably just as easy to do as you suggest in the back. 205k miles, but yeah the driver's seat is definitely looking out for better weather. Yes, spare time is not something I have a lot of. But I have another vehicle now so I can take my time on this.

Thanks for the links 0B99W, I actually do have that PDF book marked. I don't think my plug wires are loose, but I'll check it out anyway. Gary, I see, I do only have noise on one side. I mentioned the oil pump because in a post I made some time ago about HLA's Qman said that an HLA that won't pump up is often caused by a failing oil pump. He suggested checking the back-lash and screws. I did loctite the screws when I did the T-belt at 160k so I'm not really suspecting it, but... I don't really consider pulling the rocker assembly a "tear down". It doesn't seem that involved. As for the oil-pump, it's true that I have another 15k before the belt is due, but that's only about 6 months with the way I put miles on this car so that's not that far off really. Yeah, I considered a leather interior. But it seems to be the angle that the seat is at not so much the lack of support. I have the same problem in other vehicles. I'm also a bit shy about dropping that kind of cash on something that may end up being just as bad. I did drive a buddy's legacy with leather seats and it didn't seem different enough. Hard to say unless I spend some time with them.

Log1call, Thanks for that quote, I'll check out the rocker shaft relieve valves while I'm in there. Gary, When you say a bad oilpump/supply will effect the whole engine, what do you mean exactly? The engine runs beautifully, though there is a bit of a flat spot at low rpm's (like under 2k) which I've attributed to the valves not being quite in time because of the HLA's, but i suppose this could be the misfire Log1call is referring to.

'96 OBW, 2.2L, 5spd, 205K I've decided to keep my wagon. It's a total road-dog, it's been the victim and victor of a couple of fender benders, it's worn inside and out.... and I love the thing. It's easy to work on (mostly thanks to this place ) and I know it's condition, not to mention nobody wants to meet my price due largely to the fact that they would be out of their mind to buy it for what I was asking for it! Sadly, I can't drive it long distances on a regular basis as the seats have given me Sciatica, but I'm going to hang on to it as the spare vehicle and for the day when I can ditch this 100 mile commute. Anyway... It's got lifter tick. I've tried the easy stuff, oil changes, lighter oil, seafoam. Now it's time to find the problem. As always, my time is at a premium and while I've been doing lots of reading, I would like to run by everyone the trail I'm going to take. 1st - pull HLA's and bleed to make sure the collapsed ones will pump up. 2nd - if one or more HLA's wont prime, replace if they all pump up with no problem and no obvious obstructions... 3rd - pull oil pump and check for loose screws, backlash and replace as necessary. 4th - drive it 'till the valves burn up and replace!!! seriously though, is there a fourth thing? Thanks!! Will-

http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98796&highlight=legacy+dual+range

Here's the latest, I just replaced all of the brake lines on an older Volvo. I don't know if anyone is familiar with the 200 series, but the bleeding procedure is a PIA. The front calipers have 3 nipples each!! Anyway, I've thought about getting one of those Motive Powerbleeders or something similar, but looking at the pictures I figured it wouldn't be too hard to make. So it was off to Home Despot and: compression sprayer - $8.97 cap from fluid reservoir in question - $?? (I got one from the JY along with a bunch of other stuff, but com'on, a stupid plastic cap?) barbed hose fitting - $1.xx (The hose on the sprayer is 1/4 so that's what I got with a 1/8 NPT thread) hose clamp - <$1.00 Silicone - $5.00 or so Drill and tap the appropriate NPT thread into the cap with a little silicone gooped around the fitting and a hose clamp for good measure since there isn't enough meat in the cap to create a seal. One could easily drill an oversize hole, skip the tapping, and just glue it in, we're not talking but a few PSI of positive pressure to make this work. And voila- Total cost is under $20

I'm surprised that the pads are different between the 2.2 and 2.5, there's no difference in weight of the vehicle or even towing capability right?

caliper styles and transmissions eh? What else will be added to the list. How 'bout some consistency people!!!??? hehe

I don't know if removing the caliper is necessary, but since it's only one bolt, I do remove it so as not to be in danger of stretching the brake line. On the roll pin, make sure you bang on it from the correct side as mentioned in those posts. Real frustration saver there, go ahead ask me how I know

I don't know if you order from Napa regularly, but the two things I ordered from them online (a clutch cable and a ball joint) took almost two weeks to show up. These orders were several months apart. I didn't pay for fancy shipping, just ground, but even ground should only take 5 days. I found their website pretty buggy too. Will-

Good lookin' out Gary! I emailed him asking if seats from a 2001 will bolt into a '96. Thanks! Will-

Rust really should be an issue here, it's not an exterior part. The plate shouldn't ever brake off of the pedal no matter how many miles are on it. A proper weld is stronger then the base metal around it and should not break from the comparatively meager strength of the human leg. I agree with bheinen74, take it to Subaru. They will want to see that, and you stand a good chance of having it replaced for free.

Thanks fellas, leather huh? It will make cleaning the dog hair easier! Thanks for the offer Gary, I do see them come around from time to time so I'll just keep an eye out. My rear seat is ripped and the driver's seat is loose in several ways so I was leaning towards new (to me) seats anyway. The body of my outback has been the victim and victor of a couple of rear-enders and is starting to develop some rust bubbles under the paint in the wheel wells and most of the drive line hardware is pretty rusty so I've been pondering looking for a 96-99 with a blown engine and putting my engine and drive train in it so maybe I can find one with leather. Will-

I recently did my first Subaru clutch and I chose to remove the engine also. It seemed to come apart OK, but I had the same reassembly issue that you're having: When the engine is high enough to clear the mount studs, its no longer at the same angle as the the trans shaft. After several attempts I removed the engine mounts and it slid together the first try. Of note: I did not jack the trans at all because, the way I had the engine hanging from the hoist, it looked like jacking the trans was going to point it the wrong way. Since Dave has done more several more Subaru clutches then years I've been alive, my guess is that when I hoisted the engine, I didn't have it at a complementary angle. So that combined with not having lifted the trans at all led to the situation that I (and now you) was in. That being said, the desired end result is the same, make the projected angle of the crank the same as the trans shaft however you need to do it.... right?

also remember that the splines on the trans shaft may not be lined up with the clutch disc. A socket on the crank pulley bolt up front can help facilitate a meeting. Hopefully you checked for free movement of the clutch disc on the trans shaft as well as a light greasing of said shaft? As for the alignment, sounds like you have the engine on a hoist and are trying to fit the two back together. Pull the mounts off of the engine, then you'll have an easier time getting the two together as you won't be fighting both the angle and the mount stud locations. Once you have them together and the mating bolts tight, jack the assembly back up a few inches and slip the the engine mounts back in and bolt everything up. Patience is your friend. EDIT - this is assuming a manual trans, I don't know squat about an auto

I have a '96 OBW. I am unhappy with the seats. That is, my body is unhappy with them. I have a 100 mile daily commute and I'm finding that my left leg (yes it's a 5spd) has been giving me trouble. Or the tendon that runs up the back of it is or something. While I'm not exactly sure of the cause, I know that when I drive my G-pa's truck ('86 scottsdale) I have don't have the pain. Really when I drive anything with a non-bucket seat auto or manual I don't have a problem. Did any Subaru come with non-bucket type seats? I'm not afraid of a little modifying if something doesn't quite fit. Thanks! Will-

Flywheels with an even bolt pattern are not used to balance the engine internally so it doesn't matter how you put it on which is why they don't have an asymmetric bolt pattern. The pressure plate should only be able to go on one way because of the dowel pins used to center it. each flywheel is balanced on its own to make up for slight differences in their manufacture thus no two flywheels are exactly the same so a mark on your crank referencing an old flywheel isn't going to mean anything to a new flywheel. Just put your car back together and enjoy the new clutch.

I've read some posts on here about the 96-99 series legacy wagons having rear hatch handles prone to rust. Mine is way rusty but so far still works, but sometimes I think it "feels" spongier then it should. Let us know what you see when you get in there. Will-

Got'sta pick yer battles. This really isn't that bad of a project if someone is able to weld and machine (or has the money to pay people) and has the time, space, and inclination to peck away at it. Took me too literally, I meant that I will probably sell/trade the TDI for a dual sport motorcycle. Will-

Forgot to post something to close this thread. Yes, I sold the car and one of the engines. I'm hanging on to the other one for the time being though I will probably turn it into a dual sport motorcycle. I decided not to pursue the project for few reasons. First is that I just didn't have time to work on it. working on cars is one hobby I have, but it's not really my main hobby. So that coupled with a 3 hour daily commute... Second is that it was looking pretty difficult to fit that engine in without a major lift ( 6" or more) and I wasn't really after a monster car. I wanted a better mileage 4x4 and any gains I would get by the diesel engine would be sucked up by the increased surface area of a lift, the improper gearing of the available trans, and the big tires needed to try to compensate for the gearing. I'm happy to share any knowledge I've learned about the project with anyone who feels like taking it on. Will-

I'm sure that a bad leak by either the trans front seal or the rear main seal could wipe out a clutch, but the evidence of that should be pretty apparent (ie an oil trail). If you don't see that, then you need to look at other causes for your premature clutch failure. Before I go further, from what I've read on this site, the rear main seals rarely fail when left alone, but often fail when installed because they are easy to mess up. So the lesson is, let sleeping dogs lie... What does leak however is the plate between the bell-housing area and the back of the engine. The updated one is metal the leak-prone one is plastic. If you have a plastic one, that's worth the update. You mentioned that you were changing all the seals, if that means you did the cam and crank seals in front, which means you did the T-belt (and hopefully the water pump and pulleys/idlers), you should also pull the oil pump and check the screws on the back plate. They like to back out and should be loctited and the oil pump reinstalled using an anaerobic liquid gasket. Back to the clutch: What caused you to think your clutch needed work? What kind of car/engine is this? Do you have a hydraulic clutch or cable clutch? How do the flywheel and pressure plate look? By the sound of your measurements, it doesn't seem like you've used that much material. I don't know if you could quantify the life of the clutch too accurately based on the amount of material used so far since there are a lot of factors that govern how long a clutch will last.

Chatter can come from there being heat affected zones on the flywheel. When I changed my clutch I had both chatter (before the swap) and these heat affected zones. It took the removal of about .045 to get rid of it. I don't remember what the run-out spec was for the flywheel, but I got mine to be under .001 and I have had no chatter in the 24k I've put on the clutch so far. Assuming your flywheel surface and PP surface both look good, then I second replacing the disc only. If they show signs of heat (discoloration) then you might want to replace or resurface the flywheel. Did you take it easy on the clutch for the first few hundred miles? I've heard that can shorten the clutch life considerably. Will-

Which engine? Check through the threads of the last few days. The links to T-belt "how-to" articles were just posted in one of them. Also try a search. Use the "advanced" search option to narrow things down. Good Luck Will- EDIT*** Oops! Just saw you had the type of engine in the title. Sorry, still check the recent threads, the 2.2L t-belt was just talked about as it has been many many many times in the past.

I did try seafoam without any improvement. Since this is my daily driver and my backup car is currently off the road I want to minimize down time. So I want to have some HLA's handy if I end up not being able to prime one or more. I figure they are cheap enough from a JY that I'm willing to do that. So how 'bout it? Which years can I look for?