lostinthe202

Soooo, you have to have a myface account to see it?

This link seems to go to your pic of the crank sprocket from your other post

ah, thanks for the clarification. Looks like the way to go is to get a couple of axles from a '90- '94 legacy. Thanks for the tips everyone! Will-

What is an "L shaft" Do you mean Legacy (Liberty)?

Naw, I won't get into an old gen while living out here, too much rust on everything, and what isn't rusty is out of my price range. Yeah, the axle thing has me a bit stumped, but I'll have a better idea when I take everything apart and look at my options. Maybe a hybrid axle of some sort?

Meaning the stub axles on the diff a different size, but the hubs are not?

a 2000 forester Thanks for the tips everybody. Will-

You mean they're pinned on the outer joint as well as in the inner joint? Or do you mean that if I remove the pins from the inner joints I'll be able to remove the axles without touching the outer joints? Will-

OK, not that quickly. I'm pulling this from a car that is being parted not at a JY so I don't want to damage anything unnecessarily.

I had this problem in my '96 Outback. When I brought it to the forum it was suggested by a few that it's the crank sensor, they're prone to cracking and after a "hot soak" the crack can expand and the car won't start. The problem was intermittent and while I did change the crank sensor and the problem did stop happening, I never did know for sure if that was indeed the culprit.

I'm going to pulling a trans from an RX this weekend from a fella that's parting one out and I want to maximize efficiency. I'll be getting the trans, the drive shaft, and the rear diff. I don't have a manual for this car so I can't look up the procedures for the rear axle removal. What size is the rear axle nut? What's the easiest way to remove the axles? Anything else that will help get this done quickly? Thanks!! Will-

in my '96 outback, the brake light would come one when it dropped below around 15 degrees F so maybe -10 or so C. As with you, my brake system was functioning fine. If I pulled the brake reservoir off and wiggled the sensor in there the light would go out and stay out. Will-

Wow somehow I thought any kind of gear would be more money then $317. Not sure how much work you were going to have the shop do, but watch their shop rate 'cause you can end up at $317 pretty quick!

Thanks for the info. Will-

So I searched on this and got some conflicting information. I've got a '00 SOHC that I'll be doing a nose job on and I would like to clear this up before I order parts. Looking at the front of the SOHC, It seems like it's possible, but I"m not sure and I don't have the 2.2 apart yet. I've read that the "old style" tensioner is a better design the the "new style", the old style being on ej22 of pre non-interference design. Some say you undo the bracket holding the old one and bolt the whole works on a newer engine. Some say this doesn't work because there is no place in the case casting for the bolts. But none of these threads identify which engines are being talked about. So maybe some clarification from those that know? So the three possibilities that this swap might be applied to are: phase II EJ22 DOHC EJ25 SOHC EJ25 (this doesn't include the 6 because they use a chain correct?) Thanks!! Will-

Sounds under engineered to me. To Subeast-EA81 I assume you're on the east coast someplace, if you happen to be near the washington dc area, there is a red DL hatch at a wrecking yard I know of. PM me if you want details Looks like a fun project! Will-

hehehehehe, a time and place Nipper, a time and place

Auto parts stores usually carry the cheapo ones. Lowes might have it, but I doubt it. This is the one I have from Mcmaster, it's worth spending a bit more as the cheap ones are, well cheap. Part number 6967A12 from Mcmaster.com

Agreed, I say we give him a taste of his own medicine

I was into 70's japanese bikes in my post teen years and those things were held together with phillips head fasteners. I really want to track down the sadistic japanese engineer that thought using phillips would be a good idea and kick him in the nuts. anyway, it did make me the cold chisel expert I am today, then I found the impact screwdrivers that you hit with a hammer like GD mentioned. Those things are great because you can somewhat control the force you exert on the fastener. The battery impact ones I used have no torque control and tend to snap heads off if you're not careful, go ahead ask me how I know

Not bad for a 6

So those Forester wheels are 16" right? How's your speedo? Also, what kind of mileage did you get? Looks awesome! Will-

Wow, only one response on this post? So how is it holding up?

I haven't confirmed this yet, but supposedly the "fix" for this is replacing the Forester's roller bearing with the Legacy's tapered roller bearings.

Yeah, not planning on putting the 2.2 in. It's got issues and more miles on it. The 2.5 is in great shape as far as I can tell.