Mr. Brat

Oh ok that might have been what I had seen. So, I should just buy a complete XT6 clutch kit and it will work just fine?

yeah I seen your thread. Thats kinda where I had got confused with the milling out for the xt6 clutch disk. Then looking into parts the splines are differant between the 2 disks.

The xt6 clutch kit will fit the ea82 flywheel without any mods? Did some parts checking online and found that the od. size is the same and the id. is an 1/8th smaller on the EA82 and xt6 was 24 spline and the EA82 is 21 spline.

I did searching around and some research, did really find what I was looking for. I found that the XT6 pressure plate has more holding pressure 500k which sounds good to me. But the forum I was reading about this, the guy had the flywheel machined to XT6 specs. Aperantly this was due to the "step" in the clutch? Anyway, What would the best configuration of pressure plate and clutch disk would I want for a EJ w/ 5 spd. dual range? Note: 4" lift and 28" tires, this will be offroaded also.

95 Impreza seats

New tailgate emblem:grin:

got as far as looking in the door panel to see that the window lifts with the scissor lift style. I will update whe I actually get into it.

I went and picked up a wagon with pw pm today. I will rip into the door and see what it is all about. I was going to do the power mirror swap but I dont like the switch. I will let you guys know how to the power windows go.

When mine was stock I was getting an average of 27 on the highway and with the canopy I was getting about 32mpg. That was also with 6 lug conv. and bigger tires but no lift. About 24-25 inch tires.

If you are still going to use your EA82 trans, I bought my plate from Scott. http://sjrlift.com Also can have him drill your flywheel or just purchase the kit from him.

Thanks for all the compliments. I have alot of work into this thing. It just keeps getting better and better. Alot more projects to come.

tube bumpers are pretty easy to make and can make them to alot of things. When I built my front tube bumper I resessed the lights and winch plug, intalled a winch and roller fair lead and also put in d-ring points that also double as hook-up points for my flat tow bar. Its a pretty sweet setup.

I installed 95 impreza front seats in the brat this weekend. Pics to come...

I had all the grounds reconnected to the original places both on the block and next to the strut towers. The car ran great with no check engine light at all. The ECU only needs the 2 power wires correct? The main power supply (ignition activated) and the memory right?

So I spent a few hours trying to pin out the relay to figure out what was going on. I found that the ECU was not sending the fuel pump relay that ground like it should be. I rechecked all my grounds and even added a few (on cut off splices) for good measure. I still get battery voltage at 3 wires for the fuel pump.

From what I have read online. The ECU controls that ground for the fuel pump relay. Maybe check your grounds? Maybe I should recheck my grounds? I think I am just going to do the swap and figure it all out then. I deleted all the ignition wires so its a pain in the butt to track everything. Thats a good idea for the toggle switch ground anti theft. I am going to wire my clutch switch threw the rear defroster button (brats dont have rear defrost). Being it will look factory nobody would be able to figure it out.

So I worked on this harness tonight and got it fired up. Found that I needed the "key on" like I had thought that went to pin 12 of B58 plug on the ECU. After this I found that my fuel pump relay was not working right. With the power to the ECU and in "ON" position, I have power going in on 3 pins but no power going out to the fuel pump. I can take a jumper wire to the green/black wire which comes from the ECU and activate the relay to power the pump. With the car running with the jumper wire to the pump I am getting battery voltage at green/black from ECU, yellow from ECU and main power. I looked up the info on Alldata and it said "OPERATION- The fuel pump relay operates for a few seconds when the ignition is turned ON. The relay only remains engaged if the ECU detects the engine running, or the starter operating. Power is supplied to the relay when the key is ON. The ECU controls relay ground." I have the 3 grounds that were left when the harness was thinned out plus I put in another ground so 4 total. Any point in a direction would be great. Or would it be better for me to just do the swap and get the ignition in the works to siplify this whole thing?

Gloyale- I figure I am just missing something small and simple. Pulled all the harnesses out and figured since the car was still there and motor intact I would see if it would still fire. I think I made the mistake when I cut out all the ignition wires being I would use that stuff from the brat. So with that being said, the main relay isnt seeing the "key on" and the only power that is being supplied to the whole car is 12v from the battery that was in Numbcux's updated write-up.

I did some searching around here and didn't find what I was looking for. I have both an EJ18 and EJ22. The 22 is still in the car. Plan to put the intake and the harness from the legacy onto the 18 til the 22 gets built. So I pulled the dash and the engine harnesses out and thinned them down (so I think I did). I wanted to start the engine to make sure I did this right. So I plugged everything back in (eninge harness to the SMJ and ran the wires to the ECU as per Numbcux's write up). I am not using a key as I am using a remote starter due to thinning. It does not start nor is the fuel pump turning on. I can wire it directly to the battery and it works fine. So I brought out the multimeter and found that the main relay is getting power but is not powering out. Thus is why I think I am not getting spark. I may be wrong. I powered the duty side of the relay (click) and still no spark. Also if I am thinking right when the main relay is active or powered shouldn't the fuel pump relay also be active? Is there somewhere that I may have overlooked where there needs to be a "key in on postition?" I am lost on where to go with this. Note: 95 impreza EJ18 motor 93 legacy EJ22 motor and harnesses the legacy runs good, drove it into the shop last night.

Well for now I will try and get it pretty close and see where I get with the wiring. The intake, ECU and the harness should be the only thing that is differant from the 1.8 right? The throttle body and MAF should be the same. As for the smog sensors in the intake I was going to try and find out what voltage is sent back to the ECU and then duplicate that via resistors. Only problem with that would be if the voltage changes via fuel or vaccum. Dont know about that yet nor have looked into it. Should I quit while I am somewhat ahead and go to the junk yard and get an intake harness and ECU out of a OBD 1 legacy?

I didn't have to register. Just wait til the timer goes away and click the free download. It didn't ask me to register.

PM sent S'ko

So I printed off Numbchux write on the EJ swap, first bump in the road. Dont know if its the differance between 1.8 and 2.2 or maybe a cali motor. Anyways in his swap at the ECU he says there is 4 yellow connectors. My ECU has 3 green connectors. And without removing the harness, I am at a stand still. I have already takin out all the headlight and turn siganl wires. There was an ABS plug that went to the pass. front that I am guessing plugged into the ABS system that sits behind the headlight, do I need this also?

Yeah its a Gen 2, I was lookin at the junk yard today and noticed that there was a few differances in the harnesses (between my 1.8 and harness and the 2.2 and harness). But for the most part I would assume that they would be the same. The other thing is that when I get the motor the harnesses were also takin out of the car. Thus meaning I have no idea what does where. I have all the stuff plugged into the motor. Does anything need to be connected the the ABS? Or does the ECU need a signal from the ABS? I do remember reading that someone used a 2.2 harness on a 1.8 and it was in a EA81, but there was no info on how it was ran or wired up.

I have done some searching and haven't found anyone that has done this swap and did somewhat of a write on it. The motor that I got I couldn't pass the deal on. It has all the smog junk on it (for now). But fabing everything up is not the problem. I am mostly looking fot the wiring. Is this the same as the swaps into the EA82's? I also read somewhere which I cant find again and the ECU needs a wire from the ABS. If this being true what wire do I need to find/run to the ECU? Does anyone have a schematic of the wiring that I could cheat off of? Or if someone that has done the swap live down in the lower puget sound give me a little help? I always have beer!