Mr. Brat

If and when I turbo mine, it will have a whole differant exhuast setup. As for right now this one works. Just hope the resonator burns out a little. It's to quiet.

Started right back up. Maybe one revolution of the motor if that.

So I hooked up pin 10 of connetor B56 to the start circuit (10-14 volts when starting only). Left the brat in the shop all night, started it this morning and it started right up just fine. From what I can tell it fixed it, I will park it outside tonight and see what happens. Thanks for the help!

Put the resonator on. No more popping on decompression.

Made me up some pillar gauges.

I would say no to the wire connected to the fuel circuit, being I dont remember hooking that one up. I will start there. I am guessing that gets hooked to the starter relay? And yes I have tired and still do prime the pump (key on, crank, key off, and so on till it starts). Some days are better then others. This morning was a bit longer than normal. Hense the post this morning. Thanks guys

Motor is and is now my DD again. But seems that everytime the brat sits for a long period of time (all night or after work). It is hard to start. Can hear the fuel pump running and shuts off like its suppose to. Also every once and while it doesn't like to start back up after running (getting coffee). Any suggestions? I was thing maybe a vaccum problem, but everything else works just fine.

Ordered a 18" resonator today. 2" in/out. We shall see how it goes.

No, I venture out all the time. Work in Oly, live in Graham. In Tacoma quite often. It does seem like alot of bends. The intake tubes itself are larger than factory. Also when you tap the trottle all you here is the intake. Its a screamer! Yeah I was going to steam clean it after the motor was out... Couldn't get the backhoe in the shop to yard it out. Oh well... ummm it adds charactor.... umm yeah sure....

I should have done the 2.25 or the 2.5 like you will be doing. I was just staying with the stock size and didnt know any better. I am going to take it to the exhuast shop today and see what they say. I dont think the cherry bomb that I bought will accomplish what I am going for. I am thinking more along the resonator will do just fine. I will post what I found today.

Done with the motor swap.

Mine is kinda in between the deep rumble and the raspy echo effect. I think part of it is because I gutted the cat. I was thinking maybe a glasspac/cherry bomb or the resonator. Just throwing it out there to see what others have done.

My EJ18 is now running and road worthy. I have 2" into a Magnaflow and dual 1.75" out. It is still a little raspy and pops a little more than I want when coasting. I would like to have that deep throaty sound as much and possible. I was thinking about putting a resonator in it. What have you guys done to accomplish this?

85 Brat 95 EJ18 93 EJ22 intake 92 EJ22 harness & ECU 86 d/r 5 spd homemade 4" front 3 1/2" rear lift 6 lug conv. SJR adaptor 2" exhuast to magnaflow single in dual out XT6 clutch rear disk brakes Lots of other custom stuff done

Went to the junk yard today and pulled another engine harness. Stripped it down and tried over again. BAM!!! it worked. I must have clipped a ground on the old harness and it all went down hill from there. So I took extra care and faness when stripping down todays harness. It works great and the fuel pump relay works the way it should be also.

I tried that. Went to the key on position of the headlight relay under the dash. It still back feed and didnt change anything. If the alternator or the diode was bad you think this would cause the problem?

Did lot of checking tonight. found with the key being on and the engine off. When the injectors are clicking and the tach is bouncing, the coil is rapid fireing to the spark plugs and the injectors are dumping fuel. The only thing that I found that would stop all of this (besides turning the key off) is unplugging the alternator. Everything is quite. I cut the yellow wire, which is the signal to charge and plugged the alternator back in. No noise, no tach bouncing! Any ideas? Everything should work fine if I could find a wire that has a engine running voltage to wire to the alternator to turn it on. With this wire cut my volt gauge in the cluster is reding about 10 volts. If I hook that yellow wire to the positive side on the battery the alternator will charge and everything is fine.

Spliced the tach wire at the connector under the dash (no stay wires in the engine bay). The alternator is good and charging at 14 volts. I know this sounds bad but before I ran the wires threw the gromet behind the strut tower the tach and the injectors were fine, not noise nor bouncing. Before I ran the wires and relumed everything I striped out more wires the I had thought were not used. Cound this problem be a common ground that be hae been jepordized when things were moved. I came up with only 2 grounds for the EJ harness, which both came out of the harness that runs to the cooling fan. This seems like the only thing that makes sence to me. Should there be a common ground out of the ECU itself? When the key is on and tach bounces it ranges from 200-800 rpms. Holds solid when the motor is running.

Also I didnt hook slpice in the check engine like wire from the ECU. Should I wire that in, and if so what wire do I tap it to?

I think I have this all hooked up right. I am positive that the injectors did not make this pulsing/rattling noise before I pulled the motor. Also I hooked my tach up to the yellow wire from the black connector under the dash. When the key is on and the motor is not running sometimes it bounces with the pulsation of the injectors. Wierd... Any ideas?

Yeah the smaller spline is the front wheel drive. I just put a XT6 clutch in my 85 brat w/ d/r 5 spd.

I paid $50 for mine, came with flywheel and drive line. No shifting linkage. Linkage was $50 for Aaron's auto wrecking. So I would say $75-150 depending on milage.

OK well I went out and did some tests on the fuel pump relay. The ECU is sending the ground signal. When battery votage is supplied to the ECU, I get 1 second of no power (ground) from plug F47,pin 23. Which is the way is should be. Also get battery voltage at pin 2 of fuel pump relay when key is on. I still dont have any power coming out of the black/red wire to the fuel pump. The big solid yellow wire out of the relay is slpiced to the same solid yellow wires from the main relay. Should these have contant power also? When I look at Numbchux write up on how the wiring should be, I see that pin 2 & 3 should be spliced together out of the fuel pump relay and then spliced into the yellow/red wires out of the Main relay. Is this what I am suppose to do?

I was talking about the EA81. I am having a problem with the fuel pump relay not getting a gound signal. I had this problem when I striped the harness down. I know it was good before I did the strip. Its ran good. Both of the small wires still go to the ECU and the bigger yellow wire gets battery voltage. But still no voltage coming out of the Big bk/bl wire.