Mr. Brat

Thanks for all the info. I was about to blow a head gasket. Sounds like I am just going to go ahead with the 1.8 for now. If in not mistakin if the 1.8 doesn't have enough power for me. I can put 2.2 heads on it to lower the compression and then tubro it right? What about the 2.2 with the knock sensor? If I did the 2.2 swap would I need the ECU or would the 1.8 ECU work? Sorry but I just want all my ducks in a row.

Yeah this one is casted as an EJ18. But its the other stuff that throws me off. All the pictures and the online repair manuals all point to it being a 2.2 (with the coil pack on the plenum, 1 piece t-belt, hydrolic tensioner). But if it is a 1.8 could it be a EJ18 block bored to a 2.2? About the knock sensor... if upgraded to a 2.2? Would that have to be retrofitted into the ECU?

So the more and more I look into this motor. I find that it looks as if my intake manifold is for a 2.2 and I have a 1 piece timing belt, while the 1.8 has a 2 piece belt. Also find that with the instuctions of removing the timing belt, in the 2.2 instructions it tells you to put the belt tensioner in the vise to compress it and put a pin in it. That is what I had to do. Not the turn the tensioner pulls up like the 1.8. I am so confused.

So im kinda pissed off. Bought a motor from guy that said it was a 2.2l. Well come to find out after dismantling it to the block, I find the block is stamped EJ18. I have all the harness and the motor it totally complete. Still has the cross hashes in the cylinder walls. Question being, What is the differance between the 1.8 and the 2.2? I know there is a big power differance but how much? And also, will it directly bolt up to the 5 spd d/r trans (not need to redrill the flywheel and need an adaptor plate)? And is the same harness used for the 1.8 and the 2.2 if I still wanted to put a 2.2 in it later? Haven't seen a forum on here about this swap, so im kinda up in the air.

I agree with you on that it is easier to redrill wheels rather than the plates. But just like you said if you want to run alloys or plan on maybe running alloys the redrill wheel method wont work. It would probably save you about 3 hours worth of work to.

Gary- its like the first one that you sent me. Has dual ports the collect into the same header. The picture summed it up for me just fine. Thanks

If you use a small enough drill bit so you dont damage the taper, I think it would be fine. I saved mine for the spare. I have a slight wabble about 40 mph, but other than that its good up to about 85 or so. That was down hill and burnin the feet of the little gerbils. It wabbled pretty bad when I didn't grind the back of the hub flat. Make sure you do that.

I know that in Washington you can add as many lights as you want and use them on the road as long as they are not above the factory lights, and are not brighter than 55w or 65w what ever your high beam wattage is, I cant remember right now.

I used 3 drill bits. 1st bit was bigger than the holes on the wheels. Use this to transfer a centering mark to the hub. 2nd bit was a small bit for a pilot hole. 3rd bit was slightly larger than the wheel studs. Then I ground the back of the hub down so the slud flanges would sit flat. Then bolted the 2 original studs to the wheel. Next put the 4 new studs in. This centered the studs pretty well with the wheel. Then I welded them in.

When I did mine, I went to the tire shop and they gave me a junk chev or yota wheel. I used a bigger drill bit then what the hole was on the wheel and drilled threw it. It was better then eye ballin it. Long story short use the holes of the wheel as a pilot hole.

Numbchux- I was refering to having to header pipes on each side of the motor (4 pipes total). Without being at hoome to look at the motor, I think it only had 2 studs at the exhaust port. Do both ports dump into a single head pipe? Gary- Sinlge port would be like the EA81 motor, where there is only 1 port for both cylinders. I have seen headers that have to head pipes the y together and then the left and right side y together then go into the cat. I guess with that it makes me a little confused. I just dont want to buy the wrong head pipes or y pipe. Im still learning as I go with this swap.

I am a little foggy on this one, if someone could clear it for me that would be great. I just picked up a 95 impreza 2.2 and the guy i bought it from said I need a single port y pipe. Then lookin around im seeing dual port... I looked at the motor and seen that it has 2 exhaust ports on each head. They are close together, do they collect in the same header? If that be the case the dual port would be to seperate headers on each side of the motor. Did I just figure it out?

85 Brat, 4" front 3 1/2" rear lift, tube brumpers front and rear, 5 spd d/r, ea81 w/ weber, dual magnaflow exhuast, wrx hood scoop, impreza seats, locked diff, 6 lug conv, 28" hancook dynopro's, 27" SSR's, 15" wheels, ej22 motor in the shop, canopy being painted

Yeah I have a few friends that are into yota. You remember where abouts you have seen it?

Thats what I had thought, just wanted to throw it out there to see if in deed it was true.

I cant remember where I heard or had seen... Putting a 2wd drisributor in a 4wd motor will have more advance when the distributor is in full advance. True?

What are you lookin to get out of it? I just went and picked up a 2.2l so that swap is going to drain me a little bit. I still need to get the adaptor plate and send up my fly wheel.

No im not from the marlin board. As for all the reading that I have done. It seems as if I will get the first T case that I come across. I am going to pick up a 2.2l today but was hopeing to get the t case and all the hardware installed I started on the motor swap. But oh well looks like I will have to change my plans. The big advantage to using the Missan t case is that all the u joints are the same size and not have to carry and use 2 differant u joints to make one. But thanks for the pics. I would like to see more of them and some inwork and finished pics, those always help rather than trying to picture it in my head.

I am also looking at putting the nissan t case in to get the stock or somewhat close to stock gear ratio back. I have always seen the nissan t cases intalled. Is that the only one that is the best fit? What about a samurai case? And also what model number or year should the case come from? I know that you will have to build a sub frame to house the front diff, Do you mount this normal (just backwards) or whould it have to be upside down?

I have done this to my brat. You will need the 5 spd. tranny single or dual range doesnt matter. You will need the flywheel and clutch disk from the 5 spd. You will also need the mounts (will has to combined the old to the new, hold them up and you will see the differance). You will need the 2 piece drive line from the 5 spd. car (unless you are putting it in a 2 door hatch then your 1 piece driveline will work. Also will need the center consol due to the 4wd lever will change the way it enters the trans tunnel. You will also have to shave down the the lower part of the block where the inspection plate bolts up. It hits the flywheel. If you want to get miticulous you will also need the plug for the tranny and have to cut and splice your harness so your reverse, 4wd low range lights all work. If you have any other questions feel to ask.

Thank you for the feed back, this will greatly opne my searches for a parts car.

I have heard that when doing this swap you need to get a motor that was out of a manual car to go in a manual vehicle. Is this true and what is the differance between auto motor?

I have a d/r 5 spd in my brat and didn't have any problem with the larger holes in the flywheel.

I have put a new cable in it, I was just trying to get rid of having to adjust it. I am looking at the 2.2 or 2.5 swap. I have a d/r 5 spd. If nobody has done it im not going to worry about it. I figured I would through it out there and see if it has been done.

Has anyone installed or heard of anyone installing a hyrdrolic slave cylinder? Im tired of the hard clutch pedal...