sam888

1991 Legacy LS Forester Struts&Springs 205/75R15 Tires

1991 Legacy LS 1998 Forester Struts/Springs 205/75R15 Tires

Ok I think I should let you all know how this story ended but first of all thanks to all how posted with advice. I had forgotten about the many uses of the cheater bar (probably invented in the caveman era) and the inpossible axle nut video was just too funny. So I decided to remove the hub from my subaru and when I compared it one I pulled out it wasn't going to work. Apparently there is a difference between my ABS model and the non-abs. So I decided to buy bearings and seals and have my local subie shop do the technical work for me. I just finished installing the rebuilt hub and there's no noise and the car runs great. Even though I lost some money I value the learning experience and when the next bearing goes out on one of my two subarus I'll go into it with knowing that I make a totally new mistake. Thanks again and by the way if anyone is looking for a front pass side hub and axle unassembled i'll let it go for really cheap. Taken off of I think a 90 Legacy wagon. Seattle area. best, sam

Hi all, I need advice on removing the hub nut from front wheel. First off here are the initial conditions: Hub and drive shaft are removed and not on the vehicle. I picked this part at local junk yard. Car is 1991 Subaru Legacy wagon. Nut size is 32mm accross flats. I tried using my 1/2" breaker bar while clamping part on a vise and can't seem to break it loose (going to gym and working out might take to long). I also tried to use an impact wrench (a cheapy one rated at 350ft/lbs) and no luck there either. I didn't have any wd40 on hand so I didn't try that. Question: This does remove counter clockwise right? Should I try to get my hands on more powerful impact wrench? Any tips are appreciated. I'm thinking I might just let a professional handle it but I thought I'd try some suggestions from this newsgroup first. thanks, Sam

As always a great place for advice. Thanks to all ! sam

All, I have a 91 legacy with a manual 5 spd transimission. The transmission has been making noises for a few years and recently has started to pop out of 4th gear. I'm looking for a used replamentment but am unsure which years of legacies are compatible. Do any of you know? thanks, sam

I could use some advise on how to remove the driver side rear camshaft seal. Engine is not removed. Is there a special tools or techinique? sam

I prefer to do my own disk brake jobs but i don't have the ability to machine the discs. I have used Les Schwab in the past and they do an excellent job but they charge $80 bucks to do the machining. I recently tried a local mom and pop auto parts place which only charged me about $25 but the quality was not as good (the surfac finish was rougher) and I suspect that this is now the reason I get an ever so slight vibration when I brake on the right front wheel and yes I did use Subaru OEM brake pads with the shims and grease. If anyone knows of a good machine shop in the south seattle area or anywhere in Seattle that will do good job for less then $80 I would appreciate it. sam

I had a similar problem a couple of years back it was gradual and eventually the window would not go up until I pulled it will pushing the switch. Although your problem may be caused by something else here is what I did and I haven't had problems since. Remove the inside panel so you have access to the main mechanism and put grease on the track and the rollers. Good Luck Sam

I used to go to Brian's Subaru until Brian retired now I use Superior Auto formerly Superior Subauru same owner in Burien area. They seem like good guys and have done good work on both my subaru's. (206) 433-1709

Original post is here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94305 I just wanted to give an update and thank you all for the very useful advice. The problem was as far as I can tell caused by air in the system which was the result of not properly filling and purging the radiator when replaced. The reason the problem was there before I replaced the radiator was almost certainly caused by the old radiator leaking. What I did to fix it. A simple 15 minute burping at a cost me $0 since I had some antifreeze on hand. I did not replace the radiator cap or thermostat. Leaking HG was mentioned but I don't think that was it. I haven't experienced a loss in coolant and I did not see any traces of water in drained oil on my last oil change. My heater is working great and I am staying nice and toasty.

I have reviewed all the post on my questions and I am not surprised at the wealth of information that I get from this message board. My father in law thinks I am a genious because I fixed his car when no mechanic in town could based on feedback I got from this message group. My thanks to all of you who have posted. Based on all of your suggestions I think the problem is probably caused by air/gas in the system although a plugged or retricted heater core is still a possiblity. I think I will start by replacing the radiator cap and doing what is referred to by some of you as a "burping". I have not looked at fluid loss or leaks that someting I will do. If that doesn't work then I willr replace the thermostat after that I will do a heater core purge/flush. Someone asked for the condition of the timing belt; I am not sure but it was replaced at about 200k miles. It was also mentiponed that the HG leak can be the cause of gases/air in the system if that is the cas I should be having overheating problems which I am not having although it is winter. Can it still be a HG even if I don't experience engine overheat? Also if the HG is shot how soon should I be thinking about replacing/fixing it? At the moment the car runs fine. Thanks again for all your help.

I did a search on this problem and these are the closest that describe what I have but not quite. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33438&highlight=intermittent+heater http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86957&highlight=intermittent+heater Here is what I have 1991 Leg LS Wagon; 217k miles Orig Engine. Radiator replaced 5 months ago but problem was already there. I think the car overheated once when me and my wife were at the top of Hurrican Ridge Wa needle was past the half mark it did not reach the red zone. I pulled over right away and luckily coasted down in neutral to the ranger station where I was able to put water in it and made it home without problems since the leak was slow. Replaced the radiator at that time. The car warms up fine, temp gage gets to normal at normal rate and stays normal throughout the various driving conditions. I only get heat if the engine is reving at about 2000 rpm. If I am idline at below the air goes cold. I noticed that if I am going down hill or parked with front pointing down hill It is harder to get the heat to come thru even if I rev the engine. Coolant level is fine and the car does not overheat. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

That was what the attendant at the transfer station said. I have always wanted to take a picture of my Subaru loaded with stuff. This time it was loaded for a trip to the dump. Mostly boards, plywood, doors and partcicle board. The inside was loaded almost to the ceiling. In my opinion a Subaru with a roof rack is one of most versatile vehicles there is. The bike rack is back on and iIt's all vacuumed on the inside no trace of what it went through.

Check for a vacuum leak. Make sure all hoses are connected properly. Also check error codes there might be something there. Hope this helps.

In Washington State all season tires or M/S(Mud & Snow) are considered traction tires. My experience with a 91 & 95 AWD Subaru is that they drive well with All season tires in the snow. I personally mount snow tires (Les Schwab type) on my 91 and they do make a heck of difference in how they handle in slippery conditions. I recommend you get some when you get a chance. Regardless of what tire is installed I would not go into the snow with a tire with little tread depth. Lastly the most important thing is that you know yours and your cars limitations and never exceed them. Your head is the most effective safety device if it fails you are in big trouble. Regarding snow chains I carry a set in my car and I have been in some very hazardous conditions but I have never had to use them. Have fun Snowboarding and Drive safely. This link explains what is considered a traction tire in washington state. http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/winter/default.htm#tires

Thanks to who responded to my question. I think I'm going lift my subaru by using just the OB Struts and springs. I don't have the cash to do it know so it will have to wait until maybe this summer. I will post some pictures when it is done. sam

If I understand things right the Outback in addition to longer strut assemblies and larger tires also has a lift kit that comes stock. I was just wondering if the lift kit that comes stock on an Outback can be removed? I am thinking of the installing Outback struts and springs on my 91 Legacy LS and if possible I would also like to add the Outback Lift kit.

It had been leaking for about a year and as it turned out my car was leaking from both the windshield and the sunroof. One of reasons why It had me baffled was that it did not leak all the time and it was more likely to leak if my car was parked up hill vs down hill. First off I followed all the advice you can find on leaky sunroofs in this message board and I still didn't fix the leak on the sunroof. In fact I pulled out and sealed the sunroof completely twice. I do want to say that the information I find here about fixing my subaru has been the best over the years so I want to add to the knowled base with what I found. There are two small plastic pieces on each of the two corners toward the front of the sunroof. These pieces are very low profile and they appear to be designed to catch the droplets of water that come thru at the very corners. Well one of mine was broken. Luckily I one of the pieces was still laying around inside the track area so I glued it back. I also had to stick some smalle pieces of plastic shim stock to trry to rebuild the part to the way it looked. Also used some black silicon to seal all the seams. It helped to be able look at the opposite side to see what it should look like. It is good to be dry again now that it is raining like crazy in Seattle. 90 Legacy LS Oh yeah and this car just hit 200,000 miles last month and still running strong.

Ok what is the official word on chains? Front wheels only? All four wheels? Never put them on? I do have chains for my subaru but have never used them. I also have been driving in Seattle these past few days in all types of sippery and icy conditions but I still have not seen the need to chain up. I haven't gone through any really icy steep hills and I have snow tires(no studs) which I think do make a big difference. Drive safely. Sam

Check out video at http://www.king5.com/video/ titled: Amazing home video of icy collisions in Portland I wasn't able to identify these cars very well. Are any of the cars sliding subarus? Commuting these days in the Seattle area makes me glad I drive a subaru. Also Snow tires do make a difference. Finally I still think the most important accessory and feature in your driving is your brain. Drive safely and use your brain. Sam

about 140k on my 91 legacy wagon.

AC won't turn on. Just before it stopped working altogether it was working intermittently and when it didn't start I would simply keep pushing the ac button until it turned on. Now it won't go on no matter what I do. Any advise is appreciated. Sam

To remove the adhesive residue WD-40 or Peanut Butter(not crunchy) DO NOT USE BRAKE PAD CLEANER. I used some on my plastic head lamp and it smeared the plastic. BAD. Oh yeah someone mentioned heating the sticker and removing it carefully that is a good idea. I removed one from my bumber in the cold and it took some of the paint with it. Good luck.

There are very few that can afford everything at once there are still more who are foolish enough to buy everything they want on credit. My philosophy on tools is, if you are planning on using them buy the best you can afford(no Credit). Obviously this means you can't get everything. I suggest you start off with these items. 3/8" Metric Socket Set(inch also if you own US made), Screw driver set 3 sizes philips and 3 sizes flat, wrench set M8 thru M14 one side open and other closed (inch equiv if you own US made), a pair of pliers and finally a medium ball pein hammer for calibrating. This is a good starting point. Remember all those tools your dad or grandfather owned? You think they bought them all at once? No collecting tools is gradual thing it takes time in fact if you like tools it's a lifelong process. Less painfull this way. Brands I recommend Stanley, Craftsman, husky(Home Depot Brand) on the low end on the high end I'm less familiar with since I don't own any but brands such as proto, snap-on, mack, and wright. Think of the tool aquisition as an investment in fact I sometimes justify buying a new tool when I do a job I've never done before and having a particular tool makes it easy. I justify it like this. Going to the mechanic will cost me $150 the tool that would help me do the job easier or faster cost $40 dollars. I buy tool and I'm still $110 ahead asuming I do a good job. Enough said hope this helps. Sam