roostema4328

the rear 02 sensor will not effect how it runs just turn on the check engine light. the front o2 sensor is the air/fuel sensor. the reason I was talking about the rear sensor is because I use it to diagnose the front one. It is rare for both sensors to be bad. the rear one hardly ever goes out. and the readings are very easy to see. rich or lean. .1volts is lean .9 is rich. it is supposed to switch between rich and lean constantly if it is switching it is good usually. you can induce a vacuum leak and watch the rear sensor to see if it sticks too .1 you can add fuel ie-propane into intake to see if it sticks to rich .9 . . Like I said before I use the rear sensor to verify the front. since the front sensor controls the air/fuel mixture pretty much directly. if the fuel trim is less than 10% either way + or - that is considered normal. but if it is more than 10% there is something wrong that is fuel related. usually it is the front 02 sensor. you can varify that by looking at the fuel trim data and the rear o2 sensor voltage at the same time. Like if the fuel trim is at -20% that means the front 02 is measuring rich and telling the pcm to adjust the fuel ratio lean. now when that is happening the rear o2 should be showing .9 if it really is running rich. If it is stuck at .1 volts. that is lean. So obviously the front o2 should not be telling the pcm to subtract fuel if it is actually running lean so the front o2 would be bad. and actually causing the lean condition. now say the fuel trim is at like -20% and the rear o2 is stuck at like .9 then the front and rear o2 sensors are agreeing and are both probably good. You would then have a rich condition. which could be caused by anything that would make it run rich. like map sensor, leaking fuel pressure regulator diaphragm etc. of course none of this will help you unless you have the rear o2 installed lol in that case by default If I had more than 10% fuel trim either way. I would just replace the front o2. you can get them cheap at napa/oreilly/carquest etc. They are very common to go bad on those and will make it run like complete crap when they do.

you will have to drive it and look at the live readings on the sensors to see what is out of wack. I have seen a bad air/fuel sensor do things like that. or a vacuum leak. You will need to look at fuel trim data and see if the front and rear sensors are agreeing. like for example the fuel trim data shows -20% and the rear O2 is stuck at like .1 volts. that would be a dead give away that the front air/fuel sensor is bad. the reason I say that is that the rear 02 sensor shows .1 or so= lean / .8 or so = rich. If the fuel trim is at -20% that means that the front air/fuel sensor is reading rich so it is adjusting the fuel mixture lean -20%. If the rear o2 is reading .1 that means that the sensor is telling the ecu the wrong thing and actually causing it to run lean. which will make it run like crap. no power. surging. multiple misfiring etc. very common. now if the fuel trim shows something like -20% and the rear o2 is reading rich like .9 volts at the same time. that means something else is wrong. like bad fuel pressure regulator etc. something that would cause it to run rich. ha ha If fuel trim is +20 at idle and tapers off to almost 0 under load and accel. that is usually caused by a vacuum leak. Not saying any of this is YOUR problem. just sending out random info ha ha

If you think a valve is not sealing do a valve adjustment to it. they are adjustable on that engine. not very hard to do either. you may have a bad valve. if you did it would more than likely cause a misfire code for that cylinder. if that ever happens do a leakdown test on that cylinder.

if your real good with a mig welder lol. I welded two of them together on my twinturbo mudbogger to get my ps to work. It was the pressure line and it has held great. not very easy to do though. the line is very easy to burn through. it is hard to get both good penetration and not burn through.

you could get pistons that would raise it back up. but that would cost a lot of money. you would be better off replacing the bottom end with the original one if you wanted the compression back.

they should call those HAIs ha ha. just a scam.

^thats what I was thinking. but any weight savings is good but I can just pull out all the unneeded ************ like the dash and things to offset that some.

when I get the van home I will take some measurements. lol maybe this sunday. BTW what do you want for the SVX engine.

I have actually used the MLS felpro head gaskets a few times and they seem good too.

My original plan was the SVX engine. I may still go with that plan. I am still undecided. My only issue with the SVX engine would be the cost of the build to do it right. I would have to put a lot of money into the heads. but obviously there are many advantages of going that route. the major one being the weight savings. also it would still be a subaru engine. but I figured I am already using a nissan rear end assembly. and then possibly a toyota trans. who cares at this point it really wouldnt be a subaru anymore anyway lol.

so I suppose the answer is no from those links you posted above.

if it really is the same as you say. which I dont know that for sure. lol you would then just need a different clutch disc. get one for a jeep instead of a toyota as long as the disc diameter is the same. find a pilot bearing that fits the trans and the subaru. and then use the subaru pressure plate and all the other things said in this thread.

you say that 2.5 bottom ends are junk because they spin rod bearings. and then right after that you say you should just go with a whole 2.5 . you still dont really make any sense. It is hard to answer your questions when you just make a bunch of bs statements that contradict each other. lol btw. I do not believe that 2.5 bottom ends just spin rod bearings. The instances you are talking about are probably someone ranting after they abused the ************ out of their engine. or neglected it severely. like running it low on oil or not doing oil changes enough. any engine will have problems like that when not maintained or used properly.

^sorry but nothing about this post makes any since. There is nothing wrong with a 2.5bottom end. and there is nothing wrong with 2.2 heads. WTF. there are of course different reasons for choosing one over the other but neither are junk. putting spacers on an intake on a completely stock N/A engine. will do NOTHING. but cost you money. and may make the intake hit the hood.

will be watching this. good luck!

I believe the back of your trans is the same as the EJ one. so your driveshaft will probably work without shortening. It would not matter what TCU you use. they both would work. you just need to get all the wiring connected correctly. It just would be easier to use the EJ tcu If you got the wiring from a AT vehicle. you would not have to do any cutting and splicing of wires on that end. you could just plug the EJ tcu into the harness and the harness into the EJ trans. The reason I was saying to use the whole EJ trans is because by the time you buy all the seals and and gaskets to disassemble the trans and replace the bellhousing which of course in itself may cost as much as the EJ trans itself. It makes more since just to put the whole thing in. way less work.

I am slowly collecting parts to build a RWD subaru drift car. I have an 89RX that is going to be the body. I really like the body of the RX factory it looks good. I plan on trying to keep it as stock looking as possible on the outside. other than the wheels. So far I got a complete rear end subframe assembly out of a infiniti G35. I plan on ditching all the factory parts in the rear. and building the brackets to bolt the whole assembly in. so that will take care of the rear. The front end my plan was to do a 5 bolt swap with the newer STI knuckles and brakes. so that my bolt patterns would be 5x4.5 all around. the engine is where I am still undecided. My original idea was to use a SVX engine to have the displacement to make reliable big power and torque. but I dont know if that is the best route yet. because to make real big power I will be putting a lot of money into the heads. I would then use the bellhousing that a member is making on here and then the toyota RWD trans to match. which those things are both a lot of cash. So I just recieved a Free 1 ton ford van. It has a 351W and a C6 auto trans. That sounds like a great combo to me. especially since it was free. I could build the engine a whole lot cheaper to make way more power than the SVX engine. the c6 trans is bulletproof. My only concern is if it even could fit. lol

you could swap the bellhousings but that is too much work. why not just swap in the whole EJ 4eat. wouldnt the EA tcu run it just fine with the proper inputs from the engine and ecu.

^this is all true. I try not to let anything leak. and if I have a leak no matter how small I constantly keep an eye on my fluid level. MOST failures I have seen still had SOME diff fluid in the case. and would be similar as the small amount that would get on the pinion bearings that got thrown up there by the ring gear. No fluid is obviously very bad. but still you are the exception in that respect. usually things will still not lockup until you stop. most the time when you are doing highway type speed the parts just keep spinning until you stop or shear off. when you stop like your friend did the ************ just welds together. It gets so hot that the metal just melts and when you stop it welds up. that is the normal thing I see. I suppose I should shut up though because there always is exceptions to everything and it is impossible to tell exactly what people are trying to say on the internet.

this is what I was talking about. you did have a warning. your diff fluid leaked out before that happened. if the thing is full and not making any noise it is very unlikely to lock up. you must be very unlucky to have yours lock up. I am sorry for understating the possibility of diffs locking up. I just have seen at least 50 bad diffs in different states of broken ness. Never has one of them locked up.

You probably will find out later that you have a blown head gasket. lol thats what is wrong with mine right now. so it is parked until I can get all the parts together to do a swap.

more than likely the diff would not seize on you on the highway with no warning at all. It would probably at least make some noise first. usually parts like that just dont seize. and even if it did it would more than likely just shear a part off in the diff not make you crash.

not that thats the right thing to do or anything. But could you just overfill the diff to solve the oiling problem on the pinion bearings? fill it all the way till the oil reaches up to them through the vent hole. I bet that would work.

I bet you could just t into the wire that comes to the ecu already like the intake air temp sensor sig wire. and that code would go away. I would have to actually try that to varify.

^+1000. the only way you would probably ever have a problem with an EJ fuel system is if the fuel pump went out. or the computer drowned in deep water. lol and you would have those same problems if you went carbed. plus bad gas mileage, harder starting, possible flooding while wheeling on hills. plus more expense. because if you go carbed with an EJ. you have to buy a carb get it to fit the intake. you still have to do all most all the wiring anyway. because you have to do it to run the EJs ignition system. most the time when you get your used engine it will have the intake with the injectors in it. so ditching all that to go to a junk outdated carb for more expense and work is dumb. in my opinion.