roostema4328

cant do that either unless you swap in an EJ transmission. then you would not have 4x4 anymore. you would only have AWD. you could put in a spool then have true 4x4 but than the driveability on the road would suck on corners it would hop. the only real option that would work is an EJ dual range. you can swap the 4.4 gears and the GL low range into that. But they are only in Aus. Good luck getting your hands on one of them lol.

wow! nice work. keep it up!

I had the same problem with mine after I got it all swapped. I found out I was just unlucky and got a bad alternator. I replaced it with one of a parts car I had a 91 legacy EJ22 one. worked fine. just had a different plug switched it out. been charging fine ever since. Although I do need a new starter. just so you know it is different than all the other subaru starters and a biotch to find. ha ha

you may want to look into an aftermarket fuel pump. I dont think the xt6 pump will be enough to feed that thing under boost. If you do go with the xt6 pump. I would put a fuel pressure gauge on it and drive it to make sure fuel pressure stays within spec on WOT while under boost. PS, nice work. keep it up

nice work!! this gets me motivated to get back to mine.lol

It is possible to make it a racer. just a lot of work. You would have to pretty much rebuild the whole thing. Like stated. You would need to notch the frame to make that engine fit. Its not impossible. Just not easy. There is other engines that would fit easier that are SOHC. You could use a EJ25 SOHC engine with cams and low compression pistons and run a turbo. That would be easier to fit. You would have to change the transmission for sure. Use what ever trans that would hold up to the power you would be making. not the D/R. 6 speed would be ideal. Of course you wouldnt want the stock struts and shocks. or the brakes. because a brat with anymore power than a stock ej22. would be unsafe with stock suspension and braking for sure. so 5 bolt swap and possible coilovers and larger sway bars. etc etc. ha ha

I ran them out the side. they hang off the lift brackets in the back. It is not ideal and does take up a lot of room. but it sounds good. BTW I have ran exhaust out the hood and it is not a good idea. exhaust smell constantly goes into the interior threw the cowl and gases you out. lol

I think he is talking REMOVE AND REPLACE. And It would be the same as before welded diff would not effect that at all.

nice work. haha I ran mine with dual downpipes pointed straight at the ground for a while ha ha it was nasty. I was afraid of ripping the exhaust off when flying threw the mud pit. Now I have dual catless with dual thrush glass packs sounds good that way.

I have an ACT stage two pressure plate and it works very well. of course I wore out my 6 puck clutch (from slipping it over and over to get wheel spin for the mud bog runs) but the pressure plate looks good still. This time I am going to try a kevlar disc instead to see if it lasts longer. The 6 puck disc with the stage 2 plate had excellent holding power. you could fry it all day long to get the turbo spooled and into the powerband and it would engage everytime no matter what you did. but you have to be careful when doing that because if your foot slips of the clutch pedal at very high rpm. Stuff breaks ha ha

a VSS problem shouldnt mess with your idle. You have something else wrong. You either have a problem with your idle air control or you have your throttle cable too tight. the throttle cable needs to have free play or the idle control cant idle the car down. of course there is other things that could be wrong but those would be my first guesses. ha ha

sweet thanks. thats nice to know.I may put my engine in my rx someday without the lift. keep up the good work! once you get it all working it will be awesome!

how is the clearance at the drivers side turbo. will the exhaust miss the steering shaft. I had to drop my column to get mine to work. but I also have a lift. I was wondering if it fits without the lift?

nice work!

I havent measured it yet but I am almost positive. I will need a fuel cell when I swap the subframe from a infiniti G35 into my RX.

the obd2 ecus can be reflashed usually so that would probably be the best choice if you could get one to work.

nice going with the auto. that should be nice. I had a big problem with my big tires and that engine not having enough torque to get of the line without frying the clutch with the 5mt. the auto would certainly help in that department.

take the tank out and put a fuel cell in it. lol

Nice work! cant wait to see another TT GL on the road. lol

sorry. I didnt mean to poo the idea. I just was inputing some of my thoughts. which obviously must be completely wrong so I will shut up. that combo would be good of course. good luck with the build.

you are not wrong. I just have a different opinion. I do like how you say you do the frankenmotor to be cheap and then add a bunch of cost to my opinion. You do not have to do all those things you are saying. In most cases it would work out great. of course you would have to inspect your used parts and make sure they are ok. you could look at the valves and check clearance yourself. and also change the stem seals. they are cheap. plus you say more flow is bad. I dont agree. why else would you be buying cams. you obviously want more flow/duration and lift. why else would you do it. more flow equals more air pulled into the cylinder every stroke= more air to compress. more running compression. more flow out means lower cylinder temps. what is wrong with that? yes the sohc is easier to service and would fit easier. and yes parts are cheaper. you could also source a SOHC 2.5 and put highcompression pistons in that. that would be better on all fronts. no shims to adjust. larger valves more flow, cheap cams. the DOHC does fit fine in a EA82. I have one in my 86 GL. and it is easy to service. but that is because I have the 6" SJR lift and the plugs are below the frame rails now. I suppose if you had an EA81 car I would build the SOHC 2.5. actually I probably would do that anyway lol. My car has a twinturbo DOHC in it now. the next build for my RX will be RWD and have a EJ33 with built heads and block. probably small turbo with full compression for less lag. I already have the rear end that I will stick in which is the entire rear subframe of a infiniti G35. I want to build a subaru drift car. I will slowly collect parts then I will start ha ha.

well I am not going to argue. I totally understand what all you are saying. and you are right but so am I. its all just personal opinion. using the info from GDs post above I was thinking of. 1. Used, good condition EJ25D short block needing head gaskets ~$400 Around $500 for high comp. pistons 3. Timing belt/WP kit ~$120 5. Misc. gaskets and seals ~$100 so sorry my option would be a little more. at 1120.00 I was not talking of rebuilding the engine. and neither were you. that is not a fair argument. You can install pistons without tearing into the bottom end. I bet the stock EJ25d heads would flow better than the EJ22 heads with cams so no cams. of course you could spend more you always can.

I personally dont understand the frankenmotor concept. wouldnt it be better just to use the whole ej25d. and just put high compression pistons in it. you would have more flow and more compression.

been there lol. I have popped my 2.0TT bottom end and am in the slow process of transplanting a 2.2T block in the 2.0s place. (2.2TT FTW). I have the engine assembled now and waiting to install. but I have to finish remaking the front of the car to fit an STI radiator in. ha ha good luck with yours. the TT is fun if you get it all working. lots of boost. I had mine hit 22lbs and 10K rpms before I popped it,lol