renob123

I'll be monitoring your new thread as well to maybe pick up some tips or advice for my build. It's a '92-ish Legacy computer with 2.2 injectors. I'm going to hook up an A/F meter soon to see where I'm sitting. If I'm running lean, I figure I can change injectors or up the fuel pressure. Which 2.5 injectors are you talking about that fit? Ehh, it's not completely old gen anymore, but it's better off with me than rotting in that field I got it from. Plus USMB is for all Subarus. I've been searching on NABISCO a lot, but it's honestly not that big of a problem. I just posted the video for eulogious. If someone happens to know how to fix it, that's cool, but I'm really more interested in deciding on the right transmission. Unless it really is a ghost, in which case I'd like to get rid of it soon:) Jacob

I'm assuming you've read and re-read everything in the NA forum at NABISCO. If not, there's a "power white paper", and the frankenmotor thread, while 14 pages long, will give you a lot of information on an EJ22 build as well. Spending the time to read it before you commit would probably be wise, even if you go the 2.2-only route. In order to use the power cams to their fullest, you'd need an expensive port and polish (which Delta does also, I believe). I'm not sure how much you'd get out of them with stock heads. There's some talk over on NABISCO about the torque cams being more favorable for most people, and you know my opinion, but the choice is thine. All of this is regurgitated from my reading on NABISCO and here. Jacob

I'm interested in this as well. I'm betting the answer will be yes, it can hold it, but it'll be very stiff, and you may need two feet to push it down:) Jacob

I'd imagine in your sport, it's about 90% driver. I encourage you to think a lot about what benefits that level of work on a 2.2 would give you over a frankenmotor. Jacob

Here, try this: Jacob

Here's an actual video. I can't view youtube from the company network, but I think this will work. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNZEeKchKQ0&sns=em Jacob

Hooking up the wires to the engine is pretty easy. I can only imagine how hard it is to pare it down to what you need, though. I'll try to describe the idle, but I'm not sure if anyone would understand. Maybe I'll post a video if I get a chance. Imagine sitting in a parking lot with your car on and in neutral. You keep your foot on the gas with enough pressure to keep it at 1000 RPM. You let off the gas, and the RPMs get to 500 before you put your foot back on with the same amount of pressure. The RPMs go back up to 1000, then you let off again. The whole 1000 RPM-to-500 RPM-to-1000 RPM cycle takes about 1.5 seconds or so, if I had to guess. It's weird, because it acts like a ghost is pushing the gas gently and keeping very good time doing it. I probably spend less than 1% of my time driving in the <1000 RPM range, so I don't see it affecting actual driving. It doesn't feel very rough at all. It's just a ghost that I'd get rid of if I knew how to. Actually, I guess it's technically a poltergeist, since it's interacting with objects... Jacob

I was kicking this idea around in my head for a while. When my 2.2 started smoking more than I liked, I decided to see if I could do it. I was never really that impressed with the power of the 2.2. It was neat, and Brat suspension/brakes were overwhelmed by the power, but I was still underwhelmed. Now I'm trying to come up with ideas for suspension/brakes/transmission, since all of those things need to be redone now. I actually thought about a sequential-wannabe transmission similar to your 4EAT setup. If you went with a similar motor, I think you'd shoot yourself in the foot by not installing the torque cams too. From what I've read, they're an improvement over stock all the way until the heads can't flow anymore anyway. How much time do you really spend above 5500 RPM or so? Jacob

Agreed. I mentioned that wiring was part of why I went with the frankenmotor. Vagen is in a much earlier stage of his EJ swap, and I'm just trying to emphasize that the frankenmotor doesn't make sense for everyone all the time. It worked for me (for 300 miles so far) because I had the 2.2 stuff already in there. Jacob

Keep in mind that the frankenmotor heads don't flow as well as the 2.5 heads. If it's possible to drop the 2.5 in as a whole, it would probably give you more power. The frankenmotor worked for me (at least for 300 miles so far) because I already had the 2.2 wiring, manifold, etc in there. You, on the other hand, aren't as invested in the 2.2 heads/wiring/etc. I just don't want you to go down the wrong path. Jacob

It's hard to say. Idle issues are rare with these cams, so it could be unrelated. It's not a problem how it is, though. I'd say it's worth it. Jacob

I used a clutch/PP for an XT6 from the dealer. I had bad luck with the fitment of aftermarket clutch stuff during the swap. Jacob

Just quit calling me out on NABISCO, and we can meet up:grin: I'd like to see your swap as well. Mine looks like any other EJ swap. It just says "EJ25" on the block. If I get 3 years out of this transmission, then I'll be happy. This is the route I'm considering as well. I'd like to get some adjustable stiffness in the rear so I can get the ride height/stiffness that I like without buying a bunch of things over and over again until I find the one I like. I considered the Miata or EA82 coilovers and a few other things I'm not sure would work. It's good to know that the stiffness did help, though. Jacob

I can think of one: But back on topic, the thing about swapping is that if it's feasible, it's better to go with the 2.5 heads because they flow better and will give better performance than the compression bump of a frankenmotor with 2.2 heads. That's often lost on people looking to swap things around. Jacob

From what I've read, the frankenmotor is any phase 2.2 (or 1.8) heads on any phase 2.5 block. People with Outback Sports do it, and they have phase II heads, I think. I was also under the impression that the 2.5 heads flowed better. Anyway, it would be cool if the intakes matched so he could just add the 2.5 motor, but since we know the frankenmotor works, he could swap just the blocks and leave everything else how it is. I guess it depends on what parts he has to work with. Jacob

I got one of these and went custom from there back. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-SUBARU-LEGACU-GT-2-5L-HEADERS-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27af235bf2QQitemZ170442054642QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Jacob

I forgot to mention that the tires are wide. They're probably 2" wider than stock. I'm not after wheelspin, I'm just saying that that will prolong the life of the transmission. For your Shadow Locker, where did you get it? I did a search and didn't find anything. Also, what car did you say you had when you ordered it? I'm betting if I ask for one for a Loyale, they'll say they don't have anything that fits. Jacob

Shadow locker? Is that like a Phantom Grip? I'm running low profile 15s. They're snow tires, but they've been fine for how little I paid for them. Like I said before, I hope the wheel spin helps preserve the transmission. Jacob

His post sounds ok if you ignore the caps. Let's assume he wasn't being a d-bag for now, Rob:) I was going to follow that upgrade route, but the Fankenmotor is great for the $/HP thing. I'd say it's unbeatable in the $/torque category. The Delta torque cams are cheap for how they improve the powerband. If I ever pull the motor in my fast car, they're definitely going in that one too. 84GL: Have you thought of lowering the front or lifting the rear more? It would be counter to your other mods, but that's what I'm looking at for me. Jacob

No need to yell. I'm just saying my heads seem to work for what I want:confused: Jacob

That's good to know about the MS. I'm sure I'll be sending you some questions about your setup. I don't consider my stock Phase I EJ22 heads to be limiting me at all. I don't care about peak HP with this car. I care about area under the curve. If my heads fall on their face at 5500RPM, then when I shift, I'll be back on power. If I need to stay in that gear a little longer on a straightaway, I have until 6200RPM before I should shift. All assuming I don't wrap this thing around a tree or grenade the transmission without a backup. Jacob

EM is in the works. I just can't justify buying it until I have a better place to live. On the observation front, I've noticed that with no pitch stopper, the transmission and linkage moves back under acceleration. When this happens, the 4WD lever moves up a bit. It almost seems like enough to accidentally pop it into 4WD mode one day. STI mounts don't seem like enough to keep this thing put anymore:banana: Jacob

I added RX springs to 2wd struts last night. I haven't noticed a difference yet. I'm wondering if the guy accidentally sold me non-RX springs. They're not flat on one end like they should be. I'm working on something for the rear suspension. I think I'm in transmission-replacement denial right now, so I'm working on the other parts. It's awesome:burnout:while it lasts. Jacob

That's the same or a little lower RPM than my '06 STI, IIRC. There's some talk of the maximum fuel economy happening right below 4,000RPM. Any higher than that, and there's extra fuel being dumped in for boost. I don't know the specs of your TD04/05 vs. my VF39, but I'd guess it's close to the same. That RPM seems good for your setup. Cruise in 4th, and if you want power, a downshift to 3rd would likely get you right into boost territory:burnout: Jacob

Yeah, I know you guys drive on the same side as most of the rest of the planet:) That's the part I wanted to be sure of. What's keeping you from running a custom one? With all this work, you may want to look into a catless 3" one to match a 3" exhaust if you're going through all the work. Unless, of course, the dent won't allow for it. Jacob