renob123

Certainly. You were right about the retarded "rear mount" they sold me last year. Jacob

I got them for an '85. I usually specify '84 to avoid EA82 parts. Here's the compatibility chart for them from the rockauto website. It looks ok: SUBARU BRAT GL (1984 - 1987) SUBARU BRAT GL TURBO 1984 SUBARU DL 1984 SUBARU GL (1984 - 1987) Jacob P.S. Self-hijack trivia question: What wattage lamps come in an '85 Brat high-beam?

That's weird. I don't remember that bracket being on there at all. I wonder if that's one of the many things my Brat came without. Jacob

I searched, and I found that people recommended the calipers from rockauto. Nobody reported any fitment issues or getting EA82 parts (like I usually do:mad:). I bought the 3rd and 4th ones down on this link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1267747&parttype=1704 The part numbers are 0790523 and 0790524. When I got them, they had these weird brackets coming out. I searched, and found no warnings or anything, but I'm still not sure what to make of these. My memory isn't that great, but I REALLY don't remember them having those. Here are pics: You can see in this one the big bracket coming off the bottom right and some kind of brake line holder that looks too small to use: Thanks. Jacob

I'll stop by Cobb Tuning Surgeline tomorrow and see if they can hook me up with some cams:lol::lol: Jacob

Perhaps, but I think I may have seen an EJ exhaust manifold under there... Maybe I should get some cams and EM just to make sure:) Jacob

I fixed the pics. That was my first time using Picasa. Too bad the motor mount fix didn't occur after the advent of digital cameras. Jacob

...but this one takes the cake for me, and I didn't even to do my trademark hitting with a hammer/swearing at it:) About 20 miles into my drive from Port Angeles to Portland this Sunday, this alternator bolt broke. I think it actually broke sometime before, but hitting a bump made the alt fall out of its spot. Fortunately, the belt was still in there when I stopped. I managed to pry the broken part of the bolt out and replace it with an intake manifold bolt. Those bolts are only threaded at the end, and they're too long. Here's my fix. Don't worry, the Loctite was for something else. I made it to the Schuck's in Sequim and managed to push through all the Depends undergarments, Geritol, and bumper stickers expressing opinions on cats (Sequim is pretty much a 20,000 person retirement community) and found a set of bolts that were the right specs. I swapped out my awesome roadside fix after taking a picture and installed a new bolt. Anyone have a good roadside fix pic that can beat this? This is a personal best, but I've seen way better on the internet. Jacob

Oh man, subscribed:slobber: Looking at the "What else do I need for my installation?" part of his website, it looks like you need a bunch of EJ parts still. What's the benefit of this over how people normally do the 5-lug swap on the front? I definitely see the appeal of the kit for doing the rear. Jacob

This should probably be in Meet 'n' Greet, but I'm putting it here because it's about old Subarus. I saw a red, lifted, EA82 sedan in the Albertson's parking lot in Hillsboro this morning. I parked my Brat next to it. Who owns it, and what engine/exhaust combo was in there? It sounded good when it drove away. I drove away shortly after, and my exhaust sounded more like it was farting bees or something:lol: Jacob

When I said that we both provided our estimates, that was my attempt to drop this subject. Judging from his profile, Junky is an adult and is fully capable of coming to conclusions based on information. We both provided information. If you want to question my ability as a mechanic, that's fine, I guess. What if rguyver or Suberdave gave estimates on their swap costs? Would you question their abilities? My Brat isn't in the same league as their respective swaps, but I'm proud of it, and it's close to doing what I wanted it to do, and for a fraction of the price of some of my competitors' cars. Questioning my ability to estimate expenses is ludicrous, at best. I do the operating budget for a major Oregon hospital. In more explicit terms this time, I offer to drop this subject so as to not contaminate this thread, which may at some point be useful to someone doing a swap. The more swaps, the better, I say, as long as they stay out of Modified 4WD class. Jacob

Did you get this figured out? Jacob

Ah. I doubt my Brat is the same, so I'll let someone else have a look. Jacob

Cheers for the Family Guy reference. Jeers for not telling us what kind of car you have. Jacob

The original question was about how much we were in, not how much should it cost to put in an EJ engine and get it to somewhat idle if everything goes right. We both provided our estimates. Jacob

I'll have the eBay header going into 2.25" catless to a 2.25" STI muffler. Care to speculate? Jacob

I just ordered it:banana: Thanks. Jacob

That's what I was thinking with the booster, unless someone can come up with a reason why I definitely should change it. Rockauto has master cylinders in the $60-ish range. I wonder if it's my wide tires that are helping me lock up the front first:) Jacob

Heh, his ads say they'll fit both. Jacob

All of his ads show the headers fitting a WRX/STI and a 2.5RS. They make my head hurt:) I take it you bought one where the picture looked like it was for a non-turbo? I think that for $140 I'll spring for one as well. Thanks. Jacob

Woo! A response. And a useful one at that:) Would upgrading the booster help? Do you have any problems with the front/rear braking bias? Does one lock up way before the other? Thanks. Jacob

I mostly agree with you, too, but even if you mounted 4 fans, it wouldn't help if the t-stat doesn't open in time. The cooler t-stat seems to work with my setup. I'd switch to a normal t-stat if it shot open and closed, but that's not how they work. Jacob

I don't disagree. I put in a lower temp t-stat because my car is for rallyx only, and it was overheating halfway through runs. It seemed like it wasn't opening early enough. It works for me, and that's what I said earlier. If the same thing applies to quick hill crawling in the wheeling world, then I think it's a fine solution. I'll still take the Moose Drool, though:) Jacob

In Portland, yes. In Bozeman, I recommend you do a search here for "56mm thermostat" or "low temp" or something. Any car part shop will have them. 170 degrees was the sweet spot for me. If you can't find one, send me some Moose Drool, and I'll get you one:) Jacob

I didn't use that vendor, but I did get an eBay kit like that, and everything's been fine. I have an EA81 radiator and a low-temp thermostat, and I haven't had any problems with heat with that combo. Before going nuts on fitting a different radiator, make sure everything else is working right. Jacob