renob123

I'm working on putting cupholders in the tailgate where those two square panels are. I found an intake adapter for some car that is the same diameter as a beer can that I think I can use:) Jacob

I'm looking into stripping the bed of my Brat. Would this be a good thing to try? I don't mind spending all day stripping it, as long as the blaster is up to it... Jacob

I'm interested. All I can contribute right now is that '83 GL wagon seats go into a '85 Brat:) Hopefully I'll be able to post some hot Corbeau-on-Brat action in the next few weeks though. Jacob

Yep, I removed the trim clips on my Brat through holes in the inside of the door. Just take the door card off and you can see them. Pliers worked just fine for most of them. The ones on the ends were tricky, though. Jacob

Thanks GD, that's good info. I have a crazy hesitation between 1k rpm and 1300 rpm. When I start driving from a stop, the tach drops to 0, and I almost kill it (sometimes I do) before it'll start moving. From that point it's down on power, but I can get it to accelerate by repeatedly stomping on the gas then letting off. It's not something I can replicate in neutral. Timing and electrical seems fine, and I have new fuel filters. The air intake is fine as well, and I checked most of the vacuum lines I could find. After talking to edrach, I manually moved the throttle, and gas seemed to pour in from the accelerator pump, so I'm starting to wonder if it's something else. It'd be sweet if all I had to do was replace a hose, but I don't really know where to start. I'm not sure which ones are needed and which ones are pollution control things. Any further advice would be appreciated. Thanks. Jacob

I think I found the problem with my '85 Brat. The boot around the accelerator pump on the carb is torn, and it's a really good bet that some crud got stuck in there. How hard is it to fix/replace/rebuild this part? Thanks. Jacob

I took the intake off and was able to replicate the problem, so I doubt it's that. The filter is pretty new and in good shape (considering this is my rallyx-only car). Thanks though. Jacob

Update: I brought it into the shop yesterday. I got it back last night. I can only seem to duplicate the problem on the road when the engine's under load, like accelerating or going up a hill. After that, I'm able to kill the Brat just by putting my foot on the gas pedal the right amount, even in the driveway. Does this help with diagnosis? I'm replacing the cap and rotor, plugs and coil in order to rule out ignition. The shop adjusted the timing. Any feedback? I'll start looking for a replacement carb that I can run while I learn how to inspect this one, if the above changes don't fix it. Thanks. Jacob

It was pretty wicked, considering the cars attempting to navigate it. Plus, I could have probably been up to 45 or 50 mph in my fast car in other spots:grin: I'll post some pics when I find them. Is there a smart way of checking vacuum lines? Jacob

Ok, for "simple stuff", I plan to: -Dump some Seafoam in the gas tank to clean any jams or anything -Check the carb -Replace the PCV valve -Replace the vac advance line -Put on the right fuel filter Does that sound about right? Jacob

There would be oil or something in the coolant if that were the case, right? It might be something to check more thoroughly. Jacob

The coolant is fine, and there's no unusual smoke coming from the exhaust. I'll add the bowl vent to the list of things I check once I get home. The ignition stuff I think is fine because it idles ok. The only thing would be the coil or the distributor's advance that would cause this, I think. I'll swap out coils tonight. I'm not sure how to check the vac advance, but you said the problem is too big to be that. I may just check it anyway for kicks:) It started happening after a friend took it through a mud pit at the last rallyx. For the first 1/8th mile or so, the car runs fine. After that is where the problems start. Pushing on the gas nearly kills it, the tach hits about 0 rpm, then the car moves forward slowly. Does that help? Jacob

I forgot to mention that the choke is fully open when warm:) Should I replace the PCV then? Is there anything else? Jacob

This is for my '85 Brat GL. It used to go at least 70mph, now it's 45mph if I'm lucky. There's a weird hesitation when I give it a little gas. The hesitation starts at about 1k rpm and goes until about 2k rpm. However, it idles at 1k rpm and sounds fine. When I'm on the gas at, say, 2500 rpm or more, it pulses. I changed both fuel filters yesterday. Any ideas what it is? Here's a list of things I'd like to check, but don't know how to: -Vacuum advance -Timing (does this make sense if it idles normally?) -Misc hoses (which ones should I look at?) -PCV (do I even have one? Where is it?) Thanks. Jacob

I had a similar problem. It turned out that the fuse holder was too loose. Try wiggling the appropriate fuse and see if you can replicate the results that way. I bent a fuse a little to get it to stick in, and it's been fine since. Jacob

If I were in your situation with my Brat, I'd consider aiming my brights really far down as a Band-Aid until I found the real problem. There are obvious downsides, but it's something to consider if you have responsibilities at night. Jacob

See, that's the thing. I'm thinking a PO effed with the linkage rod. I just bent it back to how I thought it may very well go. I'll look at my door and try to see what bushings you guys are talking about. Thanks. Jacob

I'd like to be able to use the handle to open the tailgate. Right now I just grab some stuff inside the tailgate and pull until it opens. I pulled out a piece of metal that looks like a nail that was bent in two places, and it seems to be the culprit. It kept slipping loose. I replaced it with a zip-tie, but it stretched too much. I also tried rebending the "nail". Has anyone found a good way of fixing this thing? Thanks. Jacob

Welcome. I went through the same thing with my Brat. Since the interiors are the same (I think), what I found should help you. Keep in mind that all of this was found by using the search function. 1) Instead of searching for a dash kit, you can pick up a "slanted console" in the WTB section of the boards. It'll allow you to mount a normal stereo. I used one with a cheap Eclipse stereo from Crutchfield. 2) I am running 5.25" MB Quart speakers. I took the stock speakers, cut out the speaker part, ground the hole left by the old speakers a little with a Dremel, then screwed the MB Quarts in. 3) Run new wires for everything:) Jacob

I have new engine and transmission mounts. The EMPI DOJ was just too big, no matter what mounts I had. Aside from that, you bring up a good point:) Jacob

That sounds like a good deal, but I feel I should warn you. I bought some EMPI axles. The driver's side one rubbed on the steering shaft, and I blew the boot after about 700 miles. They didn't return my calls, and they won't let me return it and get my money back. I guess I'll keep it for a core and go through NAPA, whose axles did not fail after 700 miles. Jacob

Ok. I was post #8. My engine mounts from rockauto were fine, it's the "rear mount" that was weird. Jacob

No, if I saw it, I wouldn't have ordered them:-) Jacob

These are listed for my '85 Brat on rockauto. I ordered a couple, and they're definitely not the transmission mounts that I have on my car. Are they for a Brat with an automatic? Thanks. Jacob

I thought about that, too. Of course on a Gen 1, you have the removable Subaru symbol on the steering wheel. I added that feature when I added the Grant steering wheel to my Gen 2. So my running tally is: 1) Cupholders 2) Waterproof speakers 3) Spare parts 4) Put your weed in there:) Jacob