renob123

SPOT FACED!!! That's the term I was looking for. Thanks Ken. I've seen you on three wheels before, but never because a wheel fell off:-) </thread> Jacob

Thanks guys. I guess that's a no-go. What is the process called that I need the machinist to do? You add material, then grind it down flat. It's in some post, but I don't know what I can type in to find it. Any ideas? Thanks. Jacob

Like the title suggests, I'm wondering if I can use JB Weld to even out some of the newly drilled holes in my Brat's hubs. I know the common method is to use a welder to add material, but if I can do the same thing with a squeeze tube or something, I'd prefer that method. Thanks. Jacob

Cool. Are there any markings or anything to make sure? Also, what's a good year I can use for parts? Sorta like how I have an '85 Brat, but I order for an '84, because there may be some confusion with the EA82s in '85. Jacob

I picked these up expecting to use them for a combined vented front/disc rear/6-lug swap I'm planning. Before I go through the trouble, though, I wanted to see what these were from and if they would work. If I can figure out what kind of car they're from, then I can search for whether that model will work with my Brat, and I can look up pads and rotors online. Sorry about the bad pics, the garage isn't lit well, and there hasn't been a lot of daylight here lately:-) Just let me know what to look for or what to take a better pic of, and I'll get on it. Thanks. Jacob

Cool. The ignition thing is at the locksmith's for repair right now. Should I ask him to get rid of the steering lock? When I was pulling it, I couldn't figure out how to get the actual lock off, let alone figure out how it stops the steering wheel from moving. Jacob

Thanks, but I think I'll wait for the "correct" way to get posted:-) Jacob

I asked this in my other thread, but since it's a different topic, I'm making a different thread:-) I'm wondering how I can disable the steering wheel lock in an '85 Brat. In case I have issues in the future, it would be good to know that I can push and steer the car without worrying that the steering wheel will lock up on me. I searched and found something about a spring, but I have no idea where it is on my car. Thanks. Jacob

While I'm in here, how do I disable the steering wheel lock? I tried searching, but I couldn't find the right terms, I guess. Jacob

Yeah, that's what he'll try first, but if it comes down to redoing the lock cylinder, I may just want to look for working replacement parts from a junkyard or member. Once I get this thing figured out, I'll be able to see if the radiator can hold water, then I may be able to get the Brat to move forward under its own power for the first time in 6 years! Jacob

Yeah, I took out the passenger side lock and gave it to the locksmith. Hopefully all it takes is getting a real key cut, instead of whatever the guy thought might work. Would you be willing to part with a complete set for a Gen 2 Brat? I'll be in PDX Friday-Sunday, and if the locksmith wants a fortune for the repair, it would be good to have an alternative. Jacob

Thanks. I removed the lock last night and brought it to the locksmith this morning. He said it may be until next Monday before it's done, and that it'll cost $100+ if he has to replace the guts. Does that sound right? Jacob

I have no idea what year it is. It's definitely '90-'94 style, though. I guess I'll just put it in and see what happens. Jacob

Yeah, everything was hooked up that I could see. Isn't the center diff self-contained? I don't think I would be able to smell the oil from there, would I? Jacbo

I bought a Legacy wagon with a 5-speed as a donor for my Brat project. The guy owns a decent auto shop in town, and he had some kid tow the car up to my place, which is about 2 miles away. I came outside to look, and the rear tires were on the ground, and the front tires were off the ground. I asked if he towed it all the way like this, and he said that he had. Is the transmission useless now? I'm wondering if I should ask for my $150 back. Is there a way to see for sure if the transmission is done for? Thanks. Jacob

Is that the stuff you have? I can meet you this weekend and pick it up, then drop it off with you during the rallyx. Unless it's like $5 and easily found, then I'll just pick some up. Jacob

Thanks for the help so far. I don't think it's a wiring thing, I think it's just a key-not-turning thing. I'm wondering at this point whether I try to take the whole thing off the steering column and down to a locksmith, or if there's some way of just getting the cylinder off without taking the whole thing off (and messing with the headless bolts). Here are some pics. Please advise. Thanks. Jacob I tried pliers, allen wrenches, and yelling at it, but this thing won't come off: This whole thing can slide off after I unplug the switch on the left side and do something with the headless bolts (probably dremel a groove for a screwdriver).

I have thought about replacing the cylinder, but I want to make sure the rest of the wiring is where it should be first. Thanks for your help. I'm going to test most of this diagram later tonight. Jacob

I've been a member of IWSTI since 2002. It just took me a while to appreciate cheap parts and ground clearance... Jacob

Great! I can pick up both at the October 5th rallyx. Either that, or I'll be in the Seattle-ish area this weekend, since I'm doubting you'll want to meet me in Port Angeles. Thanks. Jacob

Thanks for the points. I was thinking maybe some PB Blaster where the key goes to try to loosen it up and allow for more than "On" and "Start" to be accessed by the key. Does anyone have the wiring diagrams I need? I knew I'd ask for them eventually. Jacob

Sorry, it's the internal fan that turns on, not the radiator fan. The key will not go back at all with reasonable force. I haven't tried unreasonable force yet. Would some PB Blaster help? The ghetto-rigging fix that I can think of right now is to get a switch that would cut power from the battery. I'd get in the car, hit the switch, then turn the key to start the engine. To stop the engine, I'd have to flip the switch again. I'm trying to avoid that. Jacob

As the title says, when I connect the battery terminals on my '85 Brat, the fan and clock come on. I know the PO messed with it somehow. I'm sure it's a problem with the ignition. In any other car, you can put the key in, then push it forward a little to get the accessories on, then push it again to start it. In the Brat, you can only put the key in, then push it forward to start. Is that normal, or should there be an "accessory" or "on" mode first? I sure hope so:-) Thanks. Jacob

Euphemism FTW. It was a nickname of mine in that era... Jacob

While I've been lurking for some time, I thought it would be wise to throw out a real introduction, since I'll probably be asking so much of this board in the coming months. I've met a lot of the Northwest members through rallyx and a few meets. This is my first Subaru, which I've been rallycrossing for three years: However, this is the one that will cause me to fill up the Retrofitting/Older Generation subforums: It's an '85 Brat, I think. At least that's what the title says, although I think it has an '83 grill. I got it from some guy who had it lying out in his field for about 6 years. I plan to use it for rally/rallycross in the coming years, but that's after I get a LOT of stuff fixed. Jacob