myhilo

Thanks for the advise guys. I was not trying to run the compressor with the vacuum connected. I had connected the vacuum pump as suggested to evacuate the system, It immediately brought the low side gauge to full vacuum, I let it run for about an hour. I then disconnedted the vacuum pump, by removing the center yellow hose from the vacuum pump and attaching it to the center secondary fitting on my gauge set. I then opened the low and high side quick connect valves and the low and high side gauge valves. there was a quick sucking of the yellow hose air from disconnecting it and then the vacuum stayed at greater than 29mm Hg for at least 30 minutes. This told me there was no large leak. I then connected a 134a container which weighed 17.40 oz with the fitting and after opening the can (which was upright) and the gauge high and low valves and the quick connect valves the system began to fill. The 134a container began to cool, I had about 40 psi I think the filling soon slowed, and after about 30 minutes I knew no more was transferring. I then closed the high side quick connect valve and the high side gauge valve. I have my assistant start the car and turn on the A/C. I expect the compressor clutch to then kick in and the compressor would then aid in the rest of the system fill. HOWEVER, the evil compressor will not engage, so I can fill the system any further. My questions now: Is there a pressure sensor or switch somewhere which is falsely preventing the compressor clutch from being engaged? Can I jumper the single wire leading to the compressor to 12VDC to cause the compressor to run? I would like to at least acheive a complete fillning so I know the rest of the system is functioning and can cool the car. I can then track down the continuing fault(s) pressure switch, or bad wire or A/C compressor relay? P.S. It would help if I could find a complete schematic showing the A/C system components and locations. I only have the Chilton's total care for a range of cars of this period and it doesn't show any A/C stuff.

I checked fuses on the fuse panel, none marked A/C, both heater fuses OK. Did I overlook one? I can't find any wiring diagram which shows the A/C system. I have Chilton's total care subaru manual.

I have a 93 Loyale, and have just converted it to R134. I bought the Subaru parts, new hoses and receiver/dryer, tried to recharge after evacuating, holds vacuum for at least 30 min, but only would take a 1/3 of first can without starting engine. With engine running , compressor doesn't run, clutch doesn't engage. Is there a pressure switch and how is the compressor clutch wired? I removed the evaporator to clean and inspect, there is a expansion valve, and a small rectangular device which I wasn't clear was piped into the system, was is the heat sensor/ thermostat to sense freeze up? Can't find a pressure sensor or switch, can I bypass and power the compressor clutch, there seems to be a single wire connector, is it a clutch power lead? The connector seems rather worn. myhilo.

I've done as Legacy777's post mentions, I have the gauges, vacuum pump installed as my current post as of today mentions. BUT I can't get the compressor to engage, how is it wired, can't find enough info to locate or bypass a pressure sensor, can I directly engage the compressor clutch? myhilo

I have a 93 Loyale, and have just converted it to R134. bought the Subaru parts, new hoses and receiver/dryer, tried to recharge after evacuating, but only would take a 1/3 of first can without starting engine, and compressor doesn't run, clutch doesn't engage. Where is the pressure switch mentioned above. and how is the compressor clutch wired? myhilo

I'm looking forward to further photos, keep up the 'relaxing' work. myhilo

Can't seem to figure out how to post threads. I only stumble on to "New Thread" sometimes, what am I missing. How do I post threads to a specific category? When I find I am reading is an area where I should post, I only find a reply to button no new thread button. Duh, Myhilo

The idea from xoomer I like. I have a 93 legacy, just got it and doing inspection underneath, saw both axle outer boots are bad. Car only has 53K mi. Can I just buy the boots and repack and install new boots? myhilo

Goyale, Thanks this help alot!, I have tested in all modes: after warming up. White NC 8 short flashes on ECU continuously Engine check light steady on. Green NC 8 short flashes on ECU continuously Engine check light steady off. White and Green NC 8 short flashes on ECU continuously Engine check light steady off. OK, great, now it's Italian Tuneup time weeeeee!

OK Goyale, I found them both, I had seen them, but they are BOTH connected! Which is the Read Mem ( the white one?) and are they supposed to be unconnected. Myhilo

Just bought this car. I can't seem to find the 93 Loyale ECU Read Mem and Test Connectors. From what I have read so far, The Read Connector and the Test Connector should both be under the steering wheel, behind a removable plastic panel. I can't find any UNCONNECTED connectors with MATCHING male and female plugs there . I was under the impression that the Read Mem should be Black and the Test should be green. I have removed the passenger panel, as well as the wrap arround panel under the radio as well. I have looked under the hood too. Is it possible the previous owner has left 93 Loyale ECU Rd Mem and Test Conn's connected and therefore I can't find them? What Colors and how many wires in each connector? Numbers on the ECU: 22611 AA395 Hitachi J4 MECF-025 #2617 ser. no. 100139 EA82 This is a 53000 mi California Loyale, vin JF1 AC422 PC200963 Automatic FWD . Everything under the hood looks clean and connected, no rust, all books and tools are there, so I't in great shape for so old, but I'm afraid if I drive it too long I may hurt something without knowing which code(s) are causing the Check Engine light to come on. The Check Engine light comes on and stays on when the car is driven more that 40 mph. Stop and shut off the car, Restart and the light is off again until you begin driving again. I would like to just put in fresh gas ,89 Octane, and give is a good long drive (Italian tune-up). Can anyone tell me the locaton and colors of the 93 Loyale ECU Rd Mem and Test Conn's? ________________________________________

Just bought this car. I can't seem to find the 93 Loyale ECU Read Mem and Test Connectors. From what I have read so far, The Read Connector and the Test Connector should both be under the steering wheel, behind a removable plastic panel. I can't find any UNCONNECTED connectors with MATCHING male and female plugs there . I was under the impression that the Read Mem should be Black and the Test should be green. I have removed the passenger panel, as well as the wrap arround panel under the radio as well. I have looked under the hood too. Is it possible the previous owner has left 93 Loyale ECU Rd Mem and Test Conn's connected and therefore I can't find them? What Colors and how many wires in each connector? Numbers on the ECU: 22611 AA395 Hitachi J4 MECF-025 #2617 ser. no. 100139 EA82 This is a 53000 mi California Loyale, vin: JF1 AC422 PC200963 Automatic FWD . Everything under the hood looks clean and connected, no rust, all books and tools are there, so the car is in great shape for so old, but I'm afraid if I drive it too long I may hurt something without knowing which code(s) are causing the Check Engine light to come on. The Check Engine light comes on and stays on when the car is driven more that 40 mph. Stop and shut off the car, Restart and the light is off again until you begin driving again. I would like to just put in fresh gas ,89 Octane, and give is a good long drive (Italian tune-up). Can anyone tell me the locaton and colors of the 93 Loyale ECU Rd Mem and Test Conn's? myhilo@yahoo.com