myhilo

Thanks for your quick reply, So it should loosen by turning Counterclockwise and if it doesn't break, it will unscrew, correct? From your comments I am planning on using penetrating oil and double wrenches to spread the forces out on the hex part.

Speedo Cable to Trans, remove how? 79, EA81 wagon 4WD, 4sp dual range manual transmission. The Speedometer Cable has a rubber/plastic boot which I have slid upward to expose a ~1/2 diameter collar then a hex fitting which a 17mm fits onto loosely. the 17 mm hex is about 1" long and seems to be made of plastic although it's blacked by crud and doesn't seem to clean up with penetrating spray. When I turn the 17mm Hex counterclockwise as viewed from above it seems to flex but NOT UNSCREW. If it's plastic I may break it or strip any plastic threads going into the transmission. How does the cable come out??

Using the come along you may want to consider pulling things as straight as you can BEFORE you take any of the dented parts off. You won't have to worry about the damage you do to the old parts when you pull on them and this may do two things for you. 1 bring the body parts mount points back closer to their correct position 2 open up the access to the bolts needed to remove the damaged parts.

I'm following this thread with interest because I have a similar problem on my Mo-in-Laws '93 Loyale, EA82, auto. Every once in a blue moon it won't start, but it's so seldom I can't pin it down. No start when key turned to start, no noise or anything. Kept car an extra month trying to drive it all over and only happened once. So I'm thinking I should sneek a remote starter switch into the circuit for the time it won't start. I've changed the starter twice but didn't help. Each time it happened to Mo-in-Law, it eventually did start each time, but it scared the 84 year old.

The brake line corrosion also applies to the fuel lines and the fuel vent lines. The salt belt cars should all be built to prevent such unsafe failures. It's just a matter of using cheap piping in the manufacture. A few dollars more to use any more durable alloy would have taken care of the problem. I had to do this job on a 97 Honda Accord and did a little research. Next time I need to do a job like this I plan on buying enough supplies from a source such as: http://store.fedhillusa.com/ There are other vendors with different alloys. I have had a lot of industrial experience with stainless steel as well.

Can you try to get back to first principles and establish whether the engine has the three things needed: Spark Fuel Compression Can you add a little gas into the intake air after the MAF sensor. Don't chance contaminating the sensor, add about a teaspoon of gas into the intake at a hose seam downstream from the sensor. This should be enough to get the engine to start for a little bit and die. That will tell you if it starts and dies, the compression is OK and the spark is OK. so the problem is fuel related. If it doesn't even fire at all with gas, then it's either compression or spark. Not too likely compression, but you can tell my loosening a spark plug to finger tight/or removing it and putting your finger into the hole while bridging the starter between the positive cable terminal and the smaller terminal. I suggest just disconnecting the terminal and using a old screwdriver or pliers, bridge between these two wire terminals. You will get a spark so no gas fumes around! Two things will happen suddenly, the spark at the terminal when the metals make contact and the starter will engage and rotate the engine causing the loose or removed spark plug hole to push out the compressed cylinder charge. This is a crude way to do things but I am assuming you have limited tools or experience so I'm trying to make it very basic. There are a few cautions to take. No gas fumes, nothing hanging in the way of the engine parts as it suddenly turns over (belts and fans clear?). Of course I always worry about hurting the computer. Also, the bridging of the positive cable connection at the starter will short out anywhere the bridging metal of the screwdriver or pliers come into contact with any grounded metal under the hood. If you have compression and you have tried to add gas the thing to follow up on is spark and you are doing all the right things so far.

Yes I did put voltage to the A/C compressor clutch and in clicked loudly and and grabbed. The pulley/clutch assembly would rotate about 1/3 turn and stop completely as if it hit a hard part. I tried rotating in both directions, to the same hard stop. The compressor will not rotate. Also there was green leak check dye on the lower seams of the compressor. How will I check if debris and garbage from the compressor has gone into the system? I'll note the ends of the hoses, when I get the new compressor and go to change over. I'm not going to open the system until I'm ready to replace. I am also considering replacing the dryer again, but the last dryer I put on had one of the hose connections oriented different from the original and I had to bend the hose/pipe to fit, and of course I put a kink into it. So I'm not sure I want to bend that hose/pipe again, not sure it will take it. Regarding the Water pump pipe, thanks for the O-ring info but I also need to know is the pipe just pressed into the water pump housing or is it held by an clip, clamp, or some other device. Should I just pull it out? I am thinking it may be obvious when I look at the new water pump, but any advice before I start will be helpful. I love working on this car, things just seem to come apart and go back together as a SUBARU!! :)

So I've been driving it all over since I put the new timing belt kit on and all seems fine. So I am going to get the A/C going and replace the water pump since it's right there when I removed the A/C compressor. What's the best source for a rebuilt A/C compressor? Can anyone tell me what make of compressor this is? and other attached photos. I believe the Water Pump should be a new one from Subaru, any thoughts.... Also note the hard pipe coming out of the water pump in the "Top Unmounted" photo. The only time I dealt with a 'hard pipe' on a water pump was with a old Caddy. Any removal/installation tips would be appreciated. '93 Loyale 1.8 EA82 Auto Vin JF1AC4226PC200963

Pulled and cleaned oil pan, no metal. Removed and sawed open oil filter, cut apart and spread filter accordion like paper, no metal. Did compression check cyl 1 70#, 2,3,4,~120# squirted oil in cyl 1, no better, still 70#, put compressed air into cyl 1. Heard air coming out of fuel injection horn. Pulled Rt. Side valve cover, rotated cam to be sure cam was not engaging, again put compressed air into cyl 1. Heard air coming out of fuel injection horn. Assume cyl 1 intake valve leaking some, but overall engine should still has some life left in it, no worse than before the timing belt broke. The mo-in-law doesn’t put more than a few K miles a year, never take it on freeway, only around town. I would like to change the water pump and reseal the cams and oil pump but think I’ll just put back together and drive a while to make sure this engine is still worth doing valves and a reseal. Looked at Ebay for timing belt kits, various prices and questionable sources. Finally went to Gates site, looked up ’93 Sub, Loyale, 1.8 found kit with Gates part no. TCK299 had both belts, both tension pulleys with new bearings and new idler pulley. Called around local Autoparts stores wanted about $200 1 day wait. Found on Amazon for $108 w/ free shipping. Ordered took about 4 days??? Installed fine but the inner belt was very tight, had to lever it on with a stout, short screw driver (ouch!). The references here helped a lot. Outer belt went on by hand. Timing marks all looked good and still looked good after a few rotations of the crank. Started right up. Still some valve lifter? noise. Seems to run fine, just as before, took into city at 70 mph all goes well. Now I need to repair A/C, I think it's seized, but not sure how to confirm it, also where/ How to get a replacement when this car is so old.

Encouraging News, Today I pulled the oil pan looking for more metal in the pan. ( I had pulled one shard out of through the drain plug and feared severe damage. Doesn't look like any significant metal debris in the bottom of the oil pan. (I did find some metal which stuck to a magnet, was the texture of the metal filings used in classrooms to demonstrate magnet lines of force. I'm attributing them to normal wear after 76K mi. So I am going to next verify the #1 cylinder is not leaking from the intake valve. The mechanic I took the car to ran a compression ( leak down ) test. We could hear air coming out of the intake when the piston was at Top Dead Center (hopefully on the compression stroke). I as assuming the test needs to be repeated and this time pull the valve cover and assure both valves are fully closed. Once I confirm the #1 cylinder does seal, I will assume the prior test at the mechanics was caused by incorrect cam position and the cams will be reset correctly by the timing belt installation procedure which is covered here on this board in a number of places. Next news won't take months......

Encouraging News, Today I pulled the oil pan looking for more metal in the pan. ( I had pulled one shard out of through the drain plug and feared severe damage. Doesn't look like any significant metal debris in the bottom of the oil pan. (I did find some metal which stuck to a magnet, was the texture of the metal filings used in classrooms to demonstrate magnet lines of force. I'm attributing them to normal wear after 76K mi. So I am going to next verify the #1 cylinder is not leaking from the intake valve. The mechanic I took the car to ran a compression ( leak down ) test. We could hear air coming out of the intake when the piston was at Top Dead Center (hopefully on the compression stroke). I as assuming the test needs to be repeated and this time pull the valve cover and assure both valves are fully closed. Once I confirm the #1 cylinder does seal, I will assume the prior test at the mechanics was caused by incorrect cam position and the cams will be reset correctly by the timing belt installation procedure which is covered here on this board in a number of places. Next news won't take months......

Doesn't someone ,such as MSD, make an independent ignition system for the EJ22, something to replace the factory stuff for an off road vehicle? I was told to post here, did a little searching online, seems the MSD doesn't eliminate the need for the factory CPU it only is a addition. I'm looking for something to replace the factory CPU (ECS?)

Doesn't someone ,such as MSD, make an independent ignition system for the EJ22, something to replace the factory stuff for an off road vehicle? I wasn't sure where to post EJ22 stuff, doesn't this engine bridge both New and Old gen forums?

Doesn't someone ,such as MSD, make an independent ignition system for the EJ22, something to replace the factory stuff for an off road vehicle?

Great Thread, the 'newer' ethanol gas does all kinds of bad things. I am always stuck with the question, dilemma, whether to add new fresh gas on top of a older gas or whether to try draining the old gas out and replacing it with some newer gas, only to have the new gas go bad as well after the next project becomes next year's project. ( a hillbilly here I think,by definition). And then there's the add stabil to gas when it's in tank..... Or: go to your local airport and get Aviation Gas for long time storage...... Does av gas's 100LL low lead does the lead in low lead harm the modern engines, fuel systems or catalytic converters?..... By the way, what can one do to responsibility dispose of the old degraded gas. I dilute a little into my lawnmower gas and hopefully get rid of it all that way but another solution would be ??????? Uh-oh, an I high-jacking a thread? I don't know the correct protocal for this message board, so criticize me freely....... but offer a suggestion

Great Thread, the 'newer' ethanol gas does all kinds of bad things. I am always stuck with the question, dilemma, whether to add new fresh gas on top of a older gas or whether to try draining the old gas out and replacing it with some newer gas, only to have the new gas go bad as well after the next project becomes next year's project. ( a hillbilly here I think,by definition). And then there's the add stabil to gas when it's in tank..... Or: go to your local airport and get Aviation Gas for long time storage...... Does av gas's 100LL low lead does the lead in low lead harm the modern engines, fuel systems or catalytic converters?..... By the way, what can one do to responsibility dispose of the old degraded gas. I dilute a little into my lawnmower gas and hopefully get rid of it all that way but another solution would be ??????? Uh-oh, an I high-jacking a thread? I don't know the correct protocal for this message board, so criticize me freely....... but offer a suggestion

Great Thread, the 'newer' ethanol gas does all kinds of bad things. I am always stuck with the question, dilemma, whether to add new fresh gas on top of a older gas or whether to try draining the old gas out and replacing it with some newer gas, only to have the new gas go bad as well after the next project becomes next year's project. ( a hillbilly here I think,by definition). And then there's the add stabil to gas when it's in tank..... Or: go to your local airport and get Aviation Gas for long time storage...... Does av gas's 100LL low lead does the lead in low lead harm the modern engines, fuel systems or catalytic converters?..... By the way, what can one do to responsibility dispose of the old degraded gas. I dilute a little into my lawnmower gas and hopefully get rid of it all that way but another solution would be ??????? Uh-oh, an I high-jacking a thread? I don't know the correct protocal for this message board, so criticize me freely....... but offer a suggestion

Thanks for your reply, it's just what I needed, that is how to proceed next, stay tuned....

Thanks for your comments, I had found only one 'shard' a little longer than a flattened rice grain stuck to the magnet I put through the sump drain plug hole. The forward timing belt was still on the engine and assumed to be still correctly timed in relation to the crank flywheel marks, but I do understand your comments and will try to redo the leakdown test. I can remove the valve cover and confirm the valves are both closed that way, correct?

Thanks for the reply, I'm not sure of the source of the shards how can I tell if it's the oil pump or the bottom end. Should I remove the engine and then look to the Oil pump and remove it first, if it's showing signs of coming apart? But I still have the unexplained cyl #1 leaking air out of the SPFI air horn during the compression leak down test. This second problem has made me spend time looking for a replacement whole engine if I have multiple problems with this engine. So, I think your suggesting I take a good look at the oil pump-correct?

Thanks for the reply and encouragment. Where would I source rebuild kits, bearings, rings, and seals. I have the time and interest, the car will only get 3000 to 5000 miles a year most likely less. So I don't need a lot of life after the rebuild, but these cars are getting old and many go to the crusher so I'm not sure where to get rebuild kits and will have to disassemble it all to evaluate damage and go from there.

OK, so I went to the mechanics shop, we put the car up on the lift and I took a magnet and pulled out some metal shards and what seemed like old gasket non-metalic stuff through the drain plug hole. The metal shards stuck to the magnet is very concerning. We also ran a compression test on cyl no. 1? passangers side front cyl. As we put pressure into the cylinder using a leak down tester we could hear air coming out of the spfi air horn. The passenger side cam was turned so that the single timing hole was at the top, aligned with the belt cover indicator. My machanic suggest a leaking intake valve. I had the car towed to my house and am looking forward to pulling the engine. I've seen Miles Fox's you-tube videos and I can handle this. So should I begin to dissassemble the engine, look for another engine? Can I fit one of my ea81 engines into it? Can I find a EA82 and do a direct swap (my favored option) Can I rebuild this EA82? Will I be able to do this ?

I've loved working on these cars for many years. I need a little help on how this forum works. How do I locate replies to my postings? Is there a way to my following posts? Will replies to my posts be in my following's as well. There is many year's of great stuff here but I haven't figured out any efficient ways to find the posts I need. Can I sort by things such as: most read, most replies to, threads which referrence other threads, index of threads often referred to, How do I post pictures to my posts: How do I post pictures to replies of posts Are there 'rule of thumb' to posting pictures, Have I missed all the answers to the above in the help files? Can I or others send me links to previous posts, I believe this is common, but a few 'coaching words' may be helpful As I said I've lurked here for years, but just not been able to use this forum as effectively as it can be used I suspect.

So I'll take a look at the car tomorrow, My mechanic tells me there was junk in the oil, so it's toast. But he also told me it's an interference engine (EA82) and everyone here says it a non-interference, so I'm somewhat doubtful of the mechanics facts and I hope to check tomorrow. What's with the F oil filter concerns????

Thanks for the info, can anyone give me advice to locate (that is find the old posting )the links refered to for doing the EA82 timing belt job?