myhilo

So this is a Non-interference Engine correct? I should drain the oil, as suggested, of no metal shards replace tensioners and belts and water pump? Can anyone suggest a reliable source for parts, water pumps from Autozone are just not reliable so I'd like a new pump. I see timing belt kits at Rock auto but don't know if the parts are again reliable? Can I pull the oil pan with the engine in the car? If so I expect I will need to pull the exhaust Y pipe and face the 20 yrs old studs and nuts, again any advice?

Funny noise followed by stopped running. Took off timing belt covers, left tensioner disintegrated, no oil in filter, did oil pump loose drive ?? Body is great shape, AT 78K Do I have to let it go, or can I find an engine, rebuild engine $$$$ or what.....

I bought two vee belts a while back to go on a double pully alternator set up. Both belts needed to be the same length, they went onto a small double pully and a larger double pully at the crank, I had to go and get two more belts from different sources before I could mix and match two belts that were the same length. I'm convinced the QC on the vee belts from manufacturer to manufacturer regarding length is just not very precise. I don't know if the same applies to timing belts, any comments. Did you try to line up the old and new belts with your hands? How much wear (stretch) was / is there between the old correct belt and the new correct (Subaru?) belt?

I'm watching with interest too. Looks like a cool project, I'm not sure even though I followed the link, why you are using the Megasquirt and additional control box. I gather it's to replace the original engine cpu and bypass a need for an original harness. Will the additional control box allow further custom tuning? Are my assumptions correct. Can you direct me to further reference materials or links?

Thank you all for the replyes. Mike104's reply did address my question the most thoroughly. Which leads to another... So, none of the ej25 are without head gasket problems compared to the older ej22. So how does one go about finding a ej22 to use for a swap. 1) buy JDM engine? 2) buy whole car from cl w/ ej22? 3. buy junk yard ej22? and run, rebuild ???? ( the warranty on junk yard engines may be so short I couldn't get it installed and debugged before a the warranty has expired.) 4. better idea?

I guess I wasn't clear, because only Grossgary answered my questions re: DOHC vs SOHC. It's as if all EJ25's are grouped together when head gasket problems are discussed. It seem to me however, that the engines have significantly different heads. So how can I evaluate what I read, do I assume all SOHC are OK and only DOHC have a problem? Not according to Grossgary's comment, but how can I find out more details of each type of Heads? I've found a number of links to HG replacements, some excellent with detailed text and photos, but all seem to feature the DOHC's.

All this EJ25 HG stuff, but is this only the DOHC engines? What about the EJ 25 SOHC engines, different heads so is it the same problem?

All this EJ25 HG stuff, but is this only the DOHC engines? What about the EJ 25 SOHC engines, different heads so is it the same problem?

Grossgary, replied "overcharging the system will make it scream. if you've converted it, the system requires less R134a than the old stuff. i think it's been said it's like one third? 9 ounces instead of 27? either way, overcharged can cause your symptoms and conversions can cause it. check the pressures." Can you give me an idea of how to check the pressures? I have an A/C tech manual and the gauges ( import, confusing instructions) I believe I originally refilled w/ about 24 oz according so I may be too full, but now I need to use the gauges to judge the charge status, and all I have is book learning which I seem to have messed up. I will endure the squealing and look at the compressor pulley next time.

93 Subaru Loyale vin: JF1AC4226PC200963 EA82 1800cc 4 cyl. Automatic 3spd A/C belt? squeaks, sounds like a belt about to break so we always turn of a/c at dash, stops right away. Turn on A/C again doesn't squeak for a while. How can I track down the problem, the belts at the A/C compressors don't look bad. I converted the A/C to 134a last summer, all went well, cools fine but occasionally the 'squeak' happens, scares the heck out of us so we immediately turn off A/C. Have replaced the 4 wire connector at the pressure switch by the passenger (Rt) side headlight. The squeak is very unpredictable, the A/C will run for 20 minutes, or 5 minutes before squeak. Never on startup of A/C. Again, How can I track down the problem, the belts at the A/C compressors don't look bad?

I have tightened the belt a few times, if my plan to wait until this occurs frequently enough to 'catch it in the act' and put belt dressing on each belt doesn't work the a new belt would be a next step, but the present belt doesn't look worn and isn't stretched so much that the adjustment travel is all used up, So I haven't been able to condemn the belt. Just in a wait and see mode at present, Thanks for the suggestion, your experience is appreciated. myhilo

All worked well for a few weeks, but now every once in a while I get a belt squeal, and see the charge lite come on before I panic and shut off the ac. A few miles later if you turn on AC, it won't cool, but if you shut off engine and then start up-turn on AC it cools,, not too easy to understand. I have a can of belt dressing I would like to put on each belt individually but I don't drive it enough to have the problem repeat. Any suggestions now? Maybe add a few more cc's of ester oil? Take both belts off an try to identify any of the pumps rotation or bearing problems?

Thanks, You spotted and error, I have no Legacy and I now know how to proceed with the Loyale axle, I intend to order boots and see about cleaning and repacking as there seems to be no noise. Thanks again. Myhilo

95 Impreza L AWD VIN JF1GF2351SG815873 Electronic mirrors don’t work, checked fuse panel under hood on left side, all fuses good. Where do I check next?

95 Impreza L AWD VIN JF1GF2351SG815873 LF outer cv boot: Will the axles from my ’93 Legacy FWD fit the Impreza front axles? They both seemed to be working OK; I just replaced them because the outer boots failed. If they will fit the Impreza, I can just rebuild them. Any suggestions?

USMB post Impreza, Just bought, 95 Impreza L AWD VIN JF1GF2351SG815873 7-7-09 Needs: Compression test: Method 1. My Chilton’s says to pull plugs, and un-plug (each injector, cold start valve and high tension lead of coil.) Can’t find any reference or photo of cold start valve, where is at? Method 2. Why can’t I just put an external starter switch, the kind used to bump the starter when setting timing, pull plugs, and leave ignition off and run compression test that way? Will I endanger any electronics? If this is safe to do how do I hook up the external starter switch, to which terminals on starter, it’s a little difficult to see down there.

Yes I bought the kit from Subaru, and it did cost alot! I was new to converting and read way too much, believing I needed to replace the receiver/dryer with a new 134a compatible one. Most people don't think this is necessary but I needed as few points of failure as possible. The biggest gripe I have with the subaru part kit was that the reciever/dryer came with the input and outlet ports reversed, so it wouldn't bolt in directly, I had to bend the sh**t out of the outlet pipe to shorten it up to fit it.

It's been a few weeks, the AC seems to be working well now, Thanks for all the advice.

USMB post Impreza, Just bought, 95 Impreza L AWD VIN JF1GF2351SG815873 7-7-09 Needs: Compression test: Method 1. My Chilton’s says to pull plugs, and un-plug (each injector, cold start valve and high tension lead of coil.) Can’t find any reference or photo of cold start valve, where is at? Method 2. Why can’t I just put an external starter switch, the kind used to bump the starter when setting timing, pull plugs, and leave ignition off and run compression test that way? Will I endanger any electronics? If this is safe to do how do I hook up the external starter switch, to which terminals on starter, it’s a little difficult to see down there. LF outer cv boot: Will the axles from my ’93 Legacy FWD fit the Impreza front axles? They both seemed to be working OK; I just replaced them because the outer boots failed. If they will fit the Impreza, I can just rebuild them. Any suggestions? AC not cooling: A/C added 12oz 134a/w leak detector after tightening all connections, appeared to be a little oil around high side outlet of evaporator, 28/190 on gauges, seems to be working OK now. Electronic mirrors don’t work: I checked fuse panel under hood on left side, all fuses good. Where do I check next?

Awesome project, very inspiring. Where did you get the new wheel wells? Looking forward to the rest of the project. Did you install seatbelts in the bed? Myhilo

Further progress. Went to Grand Subaru today, they confirmed the shrader valve in the retrofit kit needed tightening. The connector to the Compressor coil was faulty and would intermittantly open so the compressor would stop running. I replaced the faulty compressor coil power connector so it is good to go. They also pointed out the pressure switch, which was called a trinary switch. It's connector is also faulty and sometimes would also open, causing the compressor to stop! I also had a slight leak at the low side o-ring boss so I had to replace the o-ring again. This time I refilled with R134 using warm water to speed up the transfer. Put in two 12 oz. cans and it was cooling very well. Outside temp 90 in garage, inside center vent on fan speed 2 was 60 degrees. Now only have to make sure leaks are all sealed, trinary switch connector continues to make good connection. Any suggestion for the connector? Would bulb grease help?

Success, sort of.. There was no pressure switch between the receiver/dryer and the condenser. I did however decide to hot wire the compressor, and it engages, so I started over again: Vacuum pumped 1hr. Let sit 1 hr, no leak down (up?) so no leaks. Added r134a, first the small amount that would flow without the engine/ ac compressor running then with engine running and the ac compressor hot-wired. A fan in front of radiator . The system then took the small cans, but it took a long time to get each one in. I weighed each can before and after to total about 24 oz. The sticker said uses about 28-30 oz. r12, so 30oz * .85 = 25.5, I but in about 24 oz, perfect !?? Why did it take so long for each can? (at least 45 min.) Seemed to be cooling fine, I then stopped the engine and got 60 psi on Low side and 170 psi on Hi side. Thought I was finished, disconnected Hi side gauge quick connect, and then disconnected Lo side quick connect BUT it is still leaks slowly like valve stem isn't seating. I have reconnected Lo side gauge quick connect so as not to loose all my r134. Did you all remember I have purchased and installed the Subaru retrofit Kit, part no. SOA864A100 new dryer and three hoses. I followed all instructions. I emptied compressor (looked fine inside, no debris, everything spotless ), and added 100 cc of Poly ester oil, and added another 50 cc to evaporator hose, holding it up to drain into evaporator. So now I have reconnected the low side gauge and intend to bring back to Gerald Subaru in Elmhurst IL. I'm hoping they will help me now. BTW I do not need to hot wire the compressor anymore, I guess there is enough refrigerant to satisfy the pressure switch/sensor whereever it is.

Legacy777, thanks I somehow got this thread started on the new gen forum, sorry, should I start a new thread do you think?

OK, my car is a '93 Loyale, SPFI, 2WD, Auto. no problem pulling vacuum again, but as I said I would like to be able to confirm that the compressor works. so.. My questions now: Is there a pressure sensor or switch somewhere which is falsely preventing the compressor clutch from being engaged? Can I jumper the single wire leading to the compressor to 12VDC to cause the compressor to run? I would like to at least acheive a complete fillning so I know the rest of the system is functioning and can cool the car. I can then track down the continuing fault(s) pressure switch, or bad wire or A/C compressor relay? P.S. It would help if I could find a complete schematic showing the A/C system components and locations. I only have the Chilton's total care for a range of cars of this period and it doesn't show any A/C stuff.