McDave

It sounds like it's leaning out at full throttle to me too. Check the fuel pump for volume, then hook up a pressure tester and make sure the pump will put out max rated pressure with the return line pinched off. A vacuum gauge will tell you if it's restricted exhaust. PS What Gary said about the MAF too. Backprobe the connector and look for an smooth rise in voltage as you sweep the throttle to wot (engine running). Clean the maf with maf cleaner, elec contact cleaner, or brake kleen.

I've used Stant Superstats for years on various makes without a problem, and they usually are very close in appearance to the oem ones. Like Frank says, avoid the cheaper ones and if the oem has a jiggle pin, make sure your replacement does too.

Good deal! If it were mine I would probably give it another day or two to make sure it's going to continue to act normal, then just do a basic drain and refill. Then after say 500 miles go ahead and do a filter and fluid change. Maybe sooner if the fluid gets dark and/or sticky. (I'm not fond of snake oil treatments so after positive results I always try to minimize the chances of them doing future damage)

That's ok. Invisibility has it's advantages too.

Sun bad. Vacation indoors where it's cool.

:thumbs up:

Most likely. Did you happen to check the ground side of the pump too? Someone mentioned there's a connector under the seat that goes bad. You could be getting good power, but not good ground through that connector. Buy yeah, tapping on the pump and getting it to run is pretty much a sure bet it's the pump.

Yep, that's them. Disconnect all those connectors, including the white ones.

It sounds like your green test connectors were left connected and it's pulsing the sensors and fuel pump for testing purposes. Disconnect the connectors.

I saw that in your earlier post and have been thinking about it since. I found this info that lead me to believe that using a treatment like Seafoam may be worth a shot... In the General Diagnostic Table of the manual, it gives the following possible problem areas for 'Excessive time lag when select lever is moved from N to D': 1)Control valve; 2)Low clutch; 3)Duty selonoid A; 4) Seal ring; 5)Front gasket transmission case. The tech that posted that info rebuilt the tranny and didn't find anything wrong, though the rebuild did fix it. He concluded it must have been a sticking valve. Another tech did "cure" one with a half can of Seafoam. Since your problem happened gradually, that would indicate a sticking valve, imo.

In a mechanic's tech forum I belong to a junior tech asked if this HHO business was really worthwhile. One of the best responses I've heard yet was from a senior tech: "How in the world are you going to be able to make it in this business if your critical thinking skills are no better honed than that?" He then went on and explained it to him.

Put it in drive and rev it up some. CAUTION: Make sure there is nothing in front of the car like your garage as the car may jump into gear rather suddenly. If it does go into gear and stays in gear and work normally as long as you don't put it back in neutral, then it needs the forward clutch as I mentioned in my other post. The filter and flush is worth a shot. I've seen mention of a case where a bit of Seafoam took care of the problem too. Edit: We posted at the same time. Don't worry about the filter and flush since yours is already good.

I would say the coolant sensor is good. Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator and check for gas inside the hose. Then start the car and make sure vacuum is getting to the fpr. If you find gas in the hose replace the fpr.

You're welcome! Sounds like a good plan. Let us know how it goes.

Basically what you want is a steady needle that only moves as you move the throttle. What you're looking for in diagnosing your particular problem is if the needle bounces when it is missing. Actually you really don't want to see the bounce as it means you have a mechanical problem with your valvetrain. If the needle stays steady when it is missing, then the problem is electrical or ignition related instead. Here's a real good site showing how the gauge reacts in different scenarios. (requires flash) http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

Ha! I was just teasing. Granted swapping injectors is not so simple, but a test vacuum gauge is and cheap too. You tee it in at any Manifold vacuum port in the intake manifold. Vacuum ports above, or upstream of the throttle blade are Ported, not Manifold vacuum and only get vacuum above idle. You want vacuum at idle (and cruising speed). Smaller ports like those that go to the AT vacuum modulator, canister purge, or MAP sensor (on some cars) are easier to find a tee that fits the gauge hose too. PCV and brake booster vacuum ports can also be used, but the tee will be a mismatched size and harder to deal with. There are big universal tees that have all the sizes stepped from large to small on one tee, you just trim the smaller ends off to fit the different size hoses you're dealing with. It wouldn't hurt to get an assortment of tees while at the parts store.

I just thought of something else. Connect your green D-link connectors to have the ecu cycle the fp continuously. Listen for the fp running, check for voltage at the pump and relay if it's not. I believe the control wire between relay and pump is blue/yellow trace, but I'm not sure about that.

Coolant sensor specs: 14 degrees F - 7k - 11.5k ohms 68 degrees F - 2k - 3k ohms 122 degrees F - 700 - 1,000 ohms

Doh! Forgot which forum I was in. Don't forget about the fp relay.

I suggested that in post #5 but my post count isn't high enough to be taken seriously yet. :-p Actually anytime a car comes in with a misfire the vacuum gauge is one of the first tools I grab, often before the scan tool if it's missing at the time. You have to make sure the engine is mechanically sound before you start looking elsewhere, and a vg can tell you that quickly. If the problem is intermittent like the op's, the gauge is on a long hose and stays hooked up while I take a test drive, along with the scanner (obd II cars). I usually slip the gauge under the windshield wiper so I can watch it without taking my eyes off the road.

In addition to what Cougar said, you might want to pull the cap off the distributor and make sure the rotor turns when cranking. You could have broken a timing belt.

The low/forward clutch was a poor design and has likely torn up the seal. The clutch will need to be replaced with the updated version from Subaru along with all seals. In other words, light overhaul time. Sorry.

Here's a closer look at what is involved with Smack's product according to his FAQ. You're going to need a few "extras". ASSEMBLED Smack's are now available for $270 USD for US continental customers The Smack unit comes shipped to you as seen on the front page of my site. Just the booster only. No EFIE, no wires, no tubing, no relays, no catalyst. Just the assembled booster unit itself. You'll need one of the$e for each front O2 $ensor. For those who do need to make engine management adjustments, I recommend using an EFIE device from Eagle research. It's $60 and easy to use. Only di$tilled water. The formation of these solids are accompanied by the formation of unknown gases which mix with the hydroxy to form "who-knows-what" - a mixture that is of unknown content and possibly toxic to you and your engine. So for this reason only use distilled water in your cell. A cataly$t, assuming Homeland Security approves your security clearance. Potassium hydroxide (KOH) and sodium hydroxide (NaOH) are two substances that catalyze efficiently. They are commonly used in the production of soap and can be easily obtained on the WWW and shipped to your door after a simple security check is filled out. I hope it doesn't get cold where you live. How do I prevent my electrolyte from freezing? There are several suggestions to address this problem. Just adding KOH or NaOH helps lower the freezing point of your water – but in some climates that is not enough. Some suggest using low power heat elements to keep the unit liquid. My personal solution – use quick connects for the gas and power lines and just remove the unit when driving is complete. A bit of a pain, yes – but it's worth the 20% to me. I'm not sure what a PWM is but you need one of tho$e too. For short commutes of less than 2 hours, I recommend the same protocol be followed as before. Set cold current draw to 14amps. For longer periods, either use a PWM or set your cell cold to draw 4 - 5 amps. This will allow the unit to stabilize at an acceptable level. This may vary from one unit to the next, so trial and error will be necessary at first. I have purchased a PWM and will be conducting more temperature trials using it as described above I just love his scientific explanation how it works! So where does the energy come from? You cannot get more out than you put in... right??? Think of free energy devices such as my Smack or the Boyce cell as a "valve". We all know that with very little energy, we can turn a water valve from the "off" to the "on" position. The energy contained within that water is much greater than the energy required to open the valve. Granted, the energy imparted on that water is from another source (pumps, gravity, etc.) But we are not concerned with that at the moment. I have many theories of my own as to where this energy actually comes from, but that is for another discussion. What matters to us is the fact that turning the valve on is really easy compared to the amount of work the water pressure it redirects can do. Free energy devices in simple terms work like this. The amount of electrical energy required to redirect the Zero Point energy field we want to tap into is less than the amount of that energy we actually extract from the ZPE field. This is why the Smack works the way it does. Wow! All that for a whopping 20% gain! Think it will cover the consumables? It's no mystery that the Smack unit yeilds a 20% increase in fuel economy. Just look at the electrolysis equation BTU analysis and become a believer. The numbers do not and cannot lie. The electrolysis equation (link was dead)

Do you have egr, and if so, have you tried it with the vacuum hose plugged off? Try cleaning the carbon out of the valve too?

The first thing I would do is put a vacuum gauge on it to narrow it down between a mechanical problem with your valvetrain/compression or an electrical/ignition problem. A bouncing needle when rough/missing indicates a problem with the valvetrain/compression. It helps to put a long enough hose on the gauge so you can monitor it while driving too. PS Since you have a turbo, a vacuum/boost gauge on the dash could prove useful.