McDave

Make sure they're actually Bosch relays. All the 10 packs I saw were "Bosch Style", ie cheap Chinese imitations.

I just though of something else. Many FPRs have a screen at the inlet. I don't know if your MPFI unit does, and it sounds like you don't want to have to find out, but it's something to keep in mind. With any luck running fresh gas through it will clear it out.

Deadheading is where you completely stop the flow from the pump. Useful to see if the pump is up to it's full pressure capability, but otherwise hard on the pump itself. Use sparingly. It can if flow and/or pressure aren't sufficient. That I'm not so sure about. Every regulator I've seen go bad has just resulted in a rich mixture - full flow even at an idle. Your problem sounds like not enough flow... somewhere.

Note: Don't leave your fuel return line clamped off for any longer than it takes to test. Deadheading the pump like that is hard on them. I would just start the car and quickly pinch off the return line to see if it will continue running. If not, look elsewhere for the problem. You can always go back to what I suggested in an earlier thread... hook up the pump inlet to a gas can. This will tell you if it's an issue with fuel quality and/or flow from the tank, or if it's an issue downstream from the pump. Run it like that at least long enough to flush the old gas out of the injectors.

Does the gas smell old? We've got a Toyota cab over camper van at the shop with gas in it so bad nobody here wants to work on it. It's symptoms sound very similar to yours.

Now that you have a good pump running, check it for volume. You could still have a problem in the tank.

Update: The new solenoid was installed last week and the problem has not reoccurred. I'm calling this one fixed - an intermittent egr solenoid. Link to the part @ rockauto.com : http://67.129.153.73/CGv2Production/Pictures/Subaru%20J-Pegs%2F14774-AA101.jpg Subaru part number: 14774AA101

I've got a Honda CR-V in the shop right now with a very bad lower control arm bushing. It's only got 66,000 miles on it, but it belongs to a rural route mail carrier who is very hard on right front suspensions. The bad part is it's not replaceable separately so the whole lower control arm has to be replaced, and unfortunately it's on national backorder! doh!

That was the actual procedure in the owners manual of my '81 Turbo Formula Firebird to help extend turbo life. Back in the day you could even buy a pre-oiler that would do the job for you at every startup and continue after shutdown to flush hot oil out of the turbo. It's a shame something like that never became standard equipment.

True. I went back and edited the post to address this. Thanks for the heads up.

Thanks for that tip GG. I never would have thought to look for a filter there. I'll be the first to admit I'm weak when it comes to Subaru layout and their idiosyncrasies, that's one reason why I'm here, to learn. But automotive diagnostics is my specialty. I'm usually not outright wrong.

I haven't tried the Right Stuff yet so went looking for a description. Ready to use in one minute! "Permatex the Right Stuff for Imports Gasket Maker is specifically designed to perform under higher torque loads caused by engines with closely spaced bolt patterns (typically import vehicles). This product is blowout resistant, allowing leak proof gaskets to be made and put into service in just one minute. Sensor-safe, the Right Stuff for Imports seals instantly, forms a reliable, long lasting elastomeric rubber gasket that out performs precut gaskets. OEM specified by Honda, Nissan and Mazda. Resistant to power train fluids (oil, coolant, and ATF) and operates in environments to 450F (232C) continuous; 500F (260C) intermittent. Suggested Applications: - Automotive gaskets - Valve covers - Oil pans - Transmission pans - Thermostat housings - Water pumps"

I posted this in another thread awhile back... Finding shorts 101: Go to the parts store and get a circuit breaker (CB) in the same size as the fuse the dash lights are supposed to use. Also get a couple feet of wire and some wire terminals so you can attach the wires to the CB and plug the other ends of the wires into where the fuse belongs. Before plugging in the CB, make a note of everything that doesn't work besides just the dash lights. Don't forget to check the cigarette lighter too. Now plug in the CB and when you turn the key and lights on, the CB will start tripping off and on instead of burning up fuses. Start disconnecting everything that wasn't working before with the blown fuse. Once you unplug the offending item or circuit, the CB will stop tripping and you have now isolated the culprit. For instance, if the cigarette lighter was one of the items that didn't work with the blown fuse, start with it since they often short out. Or, if you unplug the dash and it quits tripping the CB, the problem is with the dash cluster. Continue unplugging stuff that didn't work until the CB stops tripping. Once the CB stops tripping, repair the short or replace the offending item. After repairs are made and the CB stays on, you can go ahead and plug everything else back in. As long as the CB doesn't trip again, you can go ahead and put a new fuse in. Done! Edit: As Gloyale noted below, you may not be able to *notice* everything that's not working, such as the choke and bowl vent solenoid. I should have stated one you reach the end of the *noted* non-working items like the lighter and/or dash lights, continue unplugging other items, like the carb connector until the CB stops tripping. Once you reach that point you may have to plug the connector back in and unplug individual items, like the choke or bowl vent to further isolate the offending part/wiring. Sooner or later you will unplug the offending circuit. You just may have to do a bit more detective work to get down to the actual bad part/wiring.

Yes, I figured the pump was external. Why can't you hook up a hose to the inlet and run it to a gas can to see if it will pump? Or did you mean to say the pump is internal? He already said it's not even getting fuel to the engine bay filter. What does possible switched lines at the injector(s) have to do with that? Sounds like either the pump is bad or fuel is not getting to the pump. Surely these cars have some sort of filter before the pump, even if it's just a sock filter in the tank?

Has anyone thought about or tried to use the Subaru Slime on these older engines to help prevent or even cure small seepage type coolant leaks? For many years, Cadillac used the Bars Leak powdered tabs in their engines for this purpose. They even recommended retreating with every coolant flush. Of course they may have been having porosity issues with their engines. Just wondering if anyone else thought it might be worth a try, even as a preventative measure?.

Any luck? I would run a hose off the back of the pump to a gas can just to see if the pump is actually working. If it does then look for a pre-filter between the tank and pump, and/or kinked or cracked hoses. If all is well there then the sock filter in the tank is suspect.

I've never waited unless it was the end of the day and the car wouldn't be delivered anyway. In that case I will wait until morning to fire it up. By the time you get the motor installed, or all the other stuff put back on after a HG job, it's had plenty of time to cure. I've never had a problem anyway, ymmv.

Ha, I've been wanting one for my 3AT. Count me in the search too!

I just went through this with my mail carrier and her Honda CR-V today. Right outer boot is bad and she's picked up some gravel causing the joint to tick all the time. A new Honda CV joint w/boot is $200 (jobber/internet price), but her down time is limited since she uses the car 6 days a week to deliver mail. I can change out axles in less than an hour, but changing the CV joint too can add anywhere between 20 min and 2 hours. You can beat yourself silly getting those things apart sometimes. A new Honda axle assembly is over $600 but my Honda dealer sells new aftermarkets too for under $100 list, and they have them in stock (none of the other options are in stock). I suggest she go with the new aftermarket. She asks if they're any good. I told her I couldn't be sure but this dealer has never steered me wrong in over 25 years and they wouldn't sell junk since they would have to deal with them too in their service dept. Then I added the clincher. Since we would be buying a new axle there would be no core exchange and we could keep her old axle. If the new one didn't prove reliable we could always order up the new CV joint from Honda for $200, then I could install it on her original axle at my leisure and have it ready to install the next time she had to drop the car off. - PS She had already figured out that particular boot/joint was always going to be a problem from the ruts/potholes she drives through in front of mailboxes. She liked the idea of having a spare. Win, win, win! She gets her car fixed cheap and fast, and I don't have to rush when beating the old CV joint off the original axle... ie recipe for a smashed thumb. And if the new aftermarket proves reliable, I may never have to change the CV joint at all!

Go ahead and rotate the tires front to rear while it's on the lift. See if the problem follows.

Any chance the green test connectors are still plugged together?

Snow camo. Remove the upper thin moldings... too many lines. The lower moldings are useful and tie in with the bumpers.

I used to have a Chevy wagon with a front seal leak. It would let me know it was low on fluid by going into neutral as I was coming to a stop, then slowly go back into gear. Add a couple quarts of ATF, repeat in a couple months. I drove it like that for years and it's still going strong (new owner is a friend) with well over 300k miles. I wouldn't worry about your mom's car.

Oh, I went in an Advanced Auto once. That would explain why all the help was too busy staring at computer screens to wait on me (store was empty otherwise).