my69opelgt

Half the thread pics are broken links, what happened?

EVER HAVE SOME ONE LIE TO YOUR FACE? I PAID 500 BUCKS FOR A 200 POUND BOAT ANCHOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LAST year i bought a " Rebuilt motor" from a fellow USMB member in portland. He claimed it ran but wouldnt idle due to stage 3 cams plus the stock ecu wouldnt work with that large of a cam. so i got a 1)"rebuilt motor", 2) t3/t4 turbo, 3) custom uppipe, custom down pipe, 4)external wastegate, 5)xt manifold, 6)and a rx awd d/r locking center dif transmission. I took the cams off and put on n/a cams. replaced h/g and oil pan gaskets. traded the turbo for a medium sized one lol, and put it in. now it started but i could not get it to stop spewing oil out the crank case vent. so i tore it all down AGAIN. found the reason.... now i know there are always a risk when buying used parts. i just cant believe he never noticed the piston slap or the gap in the rings! i took it to a certified mechanic shop and was told the cylinders were bored .30 over!!! but the crazy part is he put standard pistons back in!!! the block was ruined ofcourse cus it was bored untill the water jacket showed in the cylinder wall. so i call this guy and ofcourse he wont answer me. im upset but i just wanted to get the whole truth from him of why he did it. maybe he had some one else do the machining and didnt know? idk but now im using an old block that was pulled from another gl-10, 207k miles but it checked out ok. using the best heads of the two motors and new gaskets. I wont say it was worth it just for the custom pipes and tranny cus i could have avoided wasting two months and two sets of head gaskets on the bad block. live and learn.

Now that you mentioned it i think that it is very odd to get a reading on the temp gauge even when no coolant is in the rad. About the oil drain... thank you i already know it has to face down and it does now. old pic lol. I have the motor out and apart already, i must have been tired when i put it together the first time cus i found RTV on the intake gaskets oops. i think that plus the cheap gaskets were the cause for taking on coolant. I bought FELPRO TORQUE-MATIC HEAD GASKETS, But only one had the oil passage rubber o ring, the second was completely blank. i went back and they couldnt get another felpro with the ring. So i hope the ALTROM GROUP gaskets will be ok. they claim to be one of the oe suppliers for subaru in japan.

Here is a quick video from my phone, crappy i know, as it sits today. was able to get a longer stud but it felt like it was not gonna hold so i left it snug. I am in the process of uploading a higher quality video and will post that link when it finishes. Ok here is the new high quality vid. Enjoy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSiQka3mt4g

K so i found i had an exhaust leak on the d.s. head, its missing a stud thus stripped out somewhere. so it only boosts to 4-5 psi. it was running ok even with the leak but then a few days of driving to work and back it started losing coolant and warming up. i would add coolant and by the time i get home its gone! like magic! Ive drove the car with an empty radiator unknowingly but yet it did not once over heat... im sure if i had been wot all the time it would have though. it has dual electric fans so im thinking that is just barely enough to air cool it? So i made a noob mistake by putting cheap egay gaskets on it the first time around. im picking up FELPRO head gaskets and OEM intake and cam carrier seals to hope fully fix my problem. One unusual problem that is concerning me alot is when it takes all that coolant, it gets pulled into the oil, and then the oil psi is too much and it pushes out the turbo seals and sucked through the intercooler and into the motor. im pretty sure this is a bad thing to happen. will it be fixed by replacing the HG?

lol ya thats what i told les schwab too. all they would finance me is the stock sized all season.

awesome thanx for the help. i dont have it physically plumbed this way yet. i dont have a catch can. just looking for the exact info you just gave me lol. that cool you in my neighborhood, ya i think my biggest problem is the 2inch up pipe, i was told 1 7/8 is best. welcome to come by when im not working. just call me and i can give directions. ill pm my number

well it started up but it had some vacuum leaks. i fixed those. then it started getting alot of white smoke. i have a vac/boost gauge and its been reading 10vac no throttle and 20vac with lil throttle. oil pressure was good and fuel is good. can hear turbo spool. WILL NOT IDLE. if it gets below 1200 it takes alot of pedal pumps to get it up again. so i went back and double checked all lines, aav line is supposed to be drawing positive pressure from before throttle body and routing it to intake manifold. problem 1) AAV line plumbed to wrong intake pipe, is on after maf, needs to be after turbo before TB. problem 2) OIL SHOOTING OUT THE EXHAUST LIKE A HYDRENT! PROBLEM 3) wont idle. problem 4) crankcase gases are really thick and white! problem 5) the pvc is plumbed like stock but not with the stock hoses, new hoses, stock placement. ( since the aav was plumed through the same line its plausible this is the cause for no boost and the no idle) sorry for long post, its just while typing this it makes these ideas pop in my head lol well all this has to wait a week while im down in The Dalles OR.

Is this posted in the wrong forum?

I DIDNT PUT IN MUCH DETAIL BUT JUST NEED TO GET SECOND OPINION AND EVEN A THIRD ON MY PLAN FOR THE PVC SYSTEM. I WASNT SURE ON HOW THE CATCH CAN WORKS THOUGH. LET ME KNOW

I meant in between the internal wastegate and the turbo there was no gasket. I am using the setup Boosted balls made for a external wastegate as shown above. This pic below is of a stock internally wastgated turbo with what appears to be NO gasket. Now, i know there is a gasket on the stock downpipe but if both mating surfaces are resurfaced and completely flat a gasket should not be necessary.