HillbillyLes

The Phase 1 EJ25's (DOHC) tend to develop a bottom end rattle over time which sounds more like a wrist pin rattle than anything else and I don't know of any that have been terminal BUT there is always that annnoying and worrysome rattle/knock. I drove mine for several thousand miles without any problems before I broke down and replaced it with an 05 shortblock and 1995 JDM Hyd valve DOHC heads. They also had head gasket weaknesses, as did the early Phase 2- SOHC's...The later 03?-up have pretty much been trouble free, I believe. If you decide to go with the EJ25, I'd use a newer SOHC short block with 98-99 DOHC heads bolted up...uses the early DOHC EJ25 harness/ecu and retains the early DOHC intake manifold but with the bottom end reliability of the SOHC and CR in the 10:1+ range so a bit more power. Only real "mod" is you have to elongate the intake manifold bolt holes by about 1/16" since with the new "steel shim" head gaskets, the heads will actually sit that much closer to each other....OH yeah, you will also want to exchange the DOHC 10MM oil pump onto the SOHC inplace of the stock 6 or 8MM oil pump used stock on the SOHC. Is what I built for my 98 RS and made a world of difference with a short ram intake and OBX EL headers + 2.25" full exhaust...very NICE for a "stock" naturally aspirated subaru engine and should be pretty eye-opening if compared to the original 1.8...I'm guessing somewhere in the 185-200 crank HP range for my build using the JDM heads and bolt-ons noted above. L

RE: Brown's Gas Yeah, there is someone around here supposedly doing the kit/injection (mixes into the TB to increase the engine's efficiency XX%). Supposedly works but I am skeptical until I can see it for myself. Uses electricity and electrolysis to produce a form of hydrogen gas that when pulled in thru the intake system (at a given percent) will do this, if it works as the testamonials claim.... Les

I know the problem and how to solve it....intake and cable operated TB from a n 01-04 Naturally aspirated 2.5 SOHC engine. Problem is finding one...seems there are early DOHC intakes from broken engines all over but can't seem to find anyone with a SOHC intake they are willing to part with. (2004 was the transition year for the drive by wire..electronically controlled throttle...so some in 04 are what I need which is 'drive by cable' and some are what I have which is 'drive by wire')' Les

Since I plan on either doing a turbo kit to the 2.5 or doing a WRX/STi/Forester XT swap at some point in the future when the money is available and since this is my daily driver so more down time than absolutely necessary is NOT OK, I really just want to get this going with the least amount of time, money, and mods so doing a DBW conversion wasn't even being considered. The only prob with putting my TB on the 05 intake (assuming it will fit) is that since there is no cable now, there is no way to mount the throttle cable bracket without a fair amount of engineering and I don't have access to machine shop or other "manufacturing" resources to come up with something and make it look stock or at least decent which is why I was thinking a MY 01-04 drive by cable intake primarily so I would have somewhere to mount the cable bracket. Yes, I will want to use my engine harness when it is all said and done to prevent any possible "can't figure it out" or CEL issues. Les

I realize this isn't necessarily an Impreza board but I have been a member for several years since the Ozified wagon and I know there are some pretty sharp and experienced Soobites here, besides I'm not getting much help at some of the other forums....Additionally the question will no doubt be come up here at some point when someone decides to put a newer EJ into and older EA car... I have a 98 Impreza RS. I am exchanging the 98 Phase 1 (DOHC) EJ25 for a newer 05 Phase 2 (SOHC) EJ25 (from an RS). I didn't realize when I bought the engine that it was drive by wire. In order to keep the exchange simple and inexpensive, I wondered if anyone has had to convert a new Drive by Wire back to the older and more standard Drive by Cable? Will my older intake/TB fit the newer engine? I am sure it will but not sure enough to tear it apart, just yet without some research. Can I swap my tb onto the new intake and engineer a cable bracket mount (PITA)? Ideas from experience?? I am not interested in doing a DBW conversion to my 98. Thanks, HbL

Looks nice...be interesting to see how the entire setup is put together once all the bugs are worked out. Been MIA for a while but what wheels are those? HbL

I keep seeing this white 3-door (fastback) RX going south into Columbia (MO) as I'm headed back north on Hwy 63. I wasn't sure whether it was an RX or just a 3 door coupe...I saw it today at the stop light across from me and it's an RX. Due to not being interested in wrecking my (sold) wagon in traffic, I wasn't able to get a really good look but if it had any rust on the driver's side it was very minimal. I did fail to get any ID such as lic #. though. Where I saw it this time, narrows down his destination, though. As soon as I get the chance to go to Columbia to do some roaming, I may try to find it's daytime hideout. Speaking of my sold wagon, the guy is supposed to fly in from Oregon this Wed....then, I'll be afoot. Maybe some of y'all Oregonians will soon see it out on the road or on a trail... HbL

Well, For anyone out ther who might be interested: I've decided to sell the "Ozified" wagon. I've enjoyed it and it has been one of the best...if not THE best car I've ever had as far as reliability and dependablity but it's time to move on. I had toyed with the idea of RX power and drivetrain (LSD/disc brake rear and locking diff front)...had even located one..but I think I've invested enough time and money in this porject. It'll only be by the grace of God if I can manage to sell it for 1/2 of what I have invested right now..... I've put it on E-Bay, we'll just see what comes of that....you never know, it might just sell. Les

From my experience with my Weberized one, sounds like a vacuum issue, somewhere, plug popped off or cracked and leaking, EGR (as mentioned by others), broken or cracked hose, even an intake gasket that has a leak...intake to head?? Mine has done it a few times and has always been one of my several vacuum plugs either cracked, leaking, or while doing something, the engine would burp or backfire blowing off a vacuum plug somewhere, unawares to me until I tried to get it to idle. my $0.02 HbL

Any ideas how to do an "after market" pcv setup that doesn't suck oil from the valve cvr into the engine, esp during cornering? I've had that aggrivation since Weberizing mine. I have a small "cone" k&N type filter/breather on the right valve cover and a 5/8" hose running to the pcv valve on the left side but since there is no baffle in the valve cover, at high rpms and right hand turns under power, the hose sucks oil into the intake thru the pcv which, of course, makes for a great fogger. I have made pseudo baffling by placing some open cell foam at the connection of the pcv hose to the valve cover which has stopped the issue of sucking oil at hi rpms and turns, but has also dropped vacuum enough, it now is soaking the filter/breather on the right side at high rpms. Isn't a major issue unless sustained high rpm driving or sharp curves, but those are a part of my daily driving at times so I'd really like some input on how to get enough vacuum without sucking oil. Thanks, HbL

Thanks for the compliments....It is nice but I'm gettin' an awful lot tied up in it. No I haven't heard back from PK...I imagine he's about as busy as I am. I doubt if I make any moves until I get all the info I can on the subject. HbL

I have no opinion either way....just make sure you either have a replacement set before hand, in case you don't like the result.....or make sure you research the idea well and have a good idea of how much to cut, FIRST. I did my front and rears on my 89 5.0 coupe. It worked like a dream....on my Mustang. I also had to long slot the lower mount to my front struts to adjust the camber to prevent spending a bunch on overpriced camber plates...that option isn't open to Soobies. If you DO decide to cut, I would limit it to 1/8 - 1/4 turn at a time and try it for effect. Also, the best method (for someone without access to a machine shop, at least) is to use a DREMEL tool to cut them. If you don't have access to a DREMEL, a second best method would be by a hand-held (Weld-Hog) grinder with a cut-off wheel. Unless you find someone who has mucho-mucho experience, do not even think about using a cutting torch. Too much heat and will, even with heat sinking, ruin the temper of the metal and you'll end up with a nice set of heavy duty ink-pen springs. Besides, the Dremel or hand grinder method take less than 5 minutes and take really no prep other than safety issues. Just remember the 6 P's (actually there are 7 but 6 will suffice here).... Proper Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance That's my .02... Good Luck! HbL

Wellll, I ran across McBrat's article about EA-81s and using the 3" strut extension and lift but adding an inch under the engine crossmember, effectively raising the front an inch but leaving the struts and front suspension at the same level. That changes the front suspension to transmission level differences by an inch thereby lowering the axle angle and allowing for the front suspension to be turned down to achieve the same height but not as much camber change and axle angle. I'd think that by also adding the 4" strut extension, you'd be able to lower the height adjustment in the front by an inch or so but would still have less camber than with the 3" extension on the strut. I haven't done an EA-81 but on my EA-82, if you add an inch (or whatever) to the engine crossmember, you'd also have to add to the tranny crossmember. However, on my 3" lift, the engine crossmember lift blocks are 3" but the tranny ones are 2" so I wondered if there would be a 1:1 ratio for extra lift spacers (engine crossmember:tranny crossmember) or if the same 3:2 ratio (engine crossmember:tranny crossmember) would have to be maintained for extra lift to prevent bind, strange drivetrain angles, etc. I had contacted Patrick (PKDavis) about this and for some input on the subject and he replied that we needed to talk but I have not had any further contact. While I'm waiting, if anyone else has any experience or ideas???? Now, for those with a little insomnia, read on..... My camber isn't necessarily that far out, but in order for it to sit near level, I have to turn the front susp up at least 1/2-3/4 of the total allowed which causes some outer CV clicking on sharp turns and enough camber issues that the front starts to feel a little like it wants to follow the road at high speeds especially on not so good black top and when the roadways are somewhat slick.....Not necessarily so much as to be dangerous, but noticeably more unstable feeling than when the front is down all the way. If I turn it up all the way, it is pretty level but the camber is very obvious, the CV clicking is continual on most turns (due to inner angles) and it bounces hard on any rough road/railroad crossing/etc. The spring rate is so high at that setting, there is almost no suspension play (like 1 ton suspension on the rear of an empty pick-up). As far as the front strut spacer, I don't see any improvements that could be made on the design. It's designed about as far in at the top as will go.The top of the strut spacer sits as far in as possible, even with grinding on it as suggested on EA-81s....I really don't see much improvement available to the 3" strut spacer as designed...there is not much space in the tower for much different on that end. I think the whole system is designed (on my EA-82) to the best it can be for "bolt-on" and the only way to change anything relating to the camber issue (other than possibly the 4"/3" setup like available on the EA-82s) would be to add an inch or two to the axles and an inch or two to the "lower control arms" which would be more trouble than it's worth. Thus my investigation into the issue. Whew!!! A whole lotta' talk but not much action. I know what I was saying, I sure hope those interested enough to start reading can understand what I'm trying to describe before falling asleep. Thank you for your time, if you've made it this far, and I apologize for the length...:-\ HbL

McBrat, I know where you can get an 86, running and road ready, just ripe for a turbo RX conversion.......Hmmmm:brow:

Mo power..... I have a lead on a boneyard RX that is supposedly drivable. It has (I guess standard for the RX?) locking front diff, L/S rear diff, turbo, 5-speed, etc. The perfect swap to give my wagon about the only things it's missing....All 4 wheels powered PRN (as needed) and MO POWER. I'm waiting on some pics of the RX and to see what comes of my efforts to sell my wagon as she is before investing MORE. If I don't/can't sell for a reasonable amount and the RX thing works out I may just do the swap....I'll still have to find a daily driver to substitute while designing and building the "Superu" wagon. So I'm undecided at this point.... the RX is a few states away and quite a drive, even if it is drivable. So the whole deal will be quite another investment in time, money and efforts. Just dunno, yet, till all the facts are in. Anyway, y'all, thanks for the compliments and input. HbL