HillbillyLes

The Phase 1 EJ25's (DOHC) tend to develop a bottom end rattle over time which sounds more like a wrist pin rattle than anything else and I don't know of any that have been terminal BUT there is always that annnoying and worrysome rattle/knock. I drove mine for several thousand miles without any problems before I broke down and replaced it with an 05 shortblock and 1995 JDM Hyd valve DOHC heads. They also had head gasket weaknesses, as did the early Phase 2- SOHC's...The later 03?-up have pretty much been trouble free, I believe. If you decide to go with the EJ25, I'd use a newer SOHC short block with 98-99 DOHC heads bolted up...uses the early DOHC EJ25 harness/ecu and retains the early DOHC intake manifold but with the bottom end reliability of the SOHC and CR in the 10:1+ range so a bit more power. Only real "mod" is you have to elongate the intake manifold bolt holes by about 1/16" since with the new "steel shim" head gaskets, the heads will actually sit that much closer to each other....OH yeah, you will also want to exchange the DOHC 10MM oil pump onto the SOHC inplace of the stock 6 or 8MM oil pump used stock on the SOHC. Is what I built for my 98 RS and made a world of difference with a short ram intake and OBX EL headers + 2.25" full exhaust...very NICE for a "stock" naturally aspirated subaru engine and should be pretty eye-opening if compared to the original 1.8...I'm guessing somewhere in the 185-200 crank HP range for my build using the JDM heads and bolt-ons noted above. L

RE: Brown's Gas Yeah, there is someone around here supposedly doing the kit/injection (mixes into the TB to increase the engine's efficiency XX%). Supposedly works but I am skeptical until I can see it for myself. Uses electricity and electrolysis to produce a form of hydrogen gas that when pulled in thru the intake system (at a given percent) will do this, if it works as the testamonials claim.... Les

I know the problem and how to solve it....intake and cable operated TB from a n 01-04 Naturally aspirated 2.5 SOHC engine. Problem is finding one...seems there are early DOHC intakes from broken engines all over but can't seem to find anyone with a SOHC intake they are willing to part with. (2004 was the transition year for the drive by wire..electronically controlled throttle...so some in 04 are what I need which is 'drive by cable' and some are what I have which is 'drive by wire')' Les

Since I plan on either doing a turbo kit to the 2.5 or doing a WRX/STi/Forester XT swap at some point in the future when the money is available and since this is my daily driver so more down time than absolutely necessary is NOT OK, I really just want to get this going with the least amount of time, money, and mods so doing a DBW conversion wasn't even being considered. The only prob with putting my TB on the 05 intake (assuming it will fit) is that since there is no cable now, there is no way to mount the throttle cable bracket without a fair amount of engineering and I don't have access to machine shop or other "manufacturing" resources to come up with something and make it look stock or at least decent which is why I was thinking a MY 01-04 drive by cable intake primarily so I would have somewhere to mount the cable bracket. Yes, I will want to use my engine harness when it is all said and done to prevent any possible "can't figure it out" or CEL issues. Les

I realize this isn't necessarily an Impreza board but I have been a member for several years since the Ozified wagon and I know there are some pretty sharp and experienced Soobites here, besides I'm not getting much help at some of the other forums....Additionally the question will no doubt be come up here at some point when someone decides to put a newer EJ into and older EA car... I have a 98 Impreza RS. I am exchanging the 98 Phase 1 (DOHC) EJ25 for a newer 05 Phase 2 (SOHC) EJ25 (from an RS). I didn't realize when I bought the engine that it was drive by wire. In order to keep the exchange simple and inexpensive, I wondered if anyone has had to convert a new Drive by Wire back to the older and more standard Drive by Cable? Will my older intake/TB fit the newer engine? I am sure it will but not sure enough to tear it apart, just yet without some research. Can I swap my tb onto the new intake and engineer a cable bracket mount (PITA)? Ideas from experience?? I am not interested in doing a DBW conversion to my 98. Thanks, HbL

Looks nice...be interesting to see how the entire setup is put together once all the bugs are worked out. Been MIA for a while but what wheels are those? HbL

I keep seeing this white 3-door (fastback) RX going south into Columbia (MO) as I'm headed back north on Hwy 63. I wasn't sure whether it was an RX or just a 3 door coupe...I saw it today at the stop light across from me and it's an RX. Due to not being interested in wrecking my (sold) wagon in traffic, I wasn't able to get a really good look but if it had any rust on the driver's side it was very minimal. I did fail to get any ID such as lic #. though. Where I saw it this time, narrows down his destination, though. As soon as I get the chance to go to Columbia to do some roaming, I may try to find it's daytime hideout. Speaking of my sold wagon, the guy is supposed to fly in from Oregon this Wed....then, I'll be afoot. Maybe some of y'all Oregonians will soon see it out on the road or on a trail... HbL

Well, For anyone out ther who might be interested: I've decided to sell the "Ozified" wagon. I've enjoyed it and it has been one of the best...if not THE best car I've ever had as far as reliability and dependablity but it's time to move on. I had toyed with the idea of RX power and drivetrain (LSD/disc brake rear and locking diff front)...had even located one..but I think I've invested enough time and money in this porject. It'll only be by the grace of God if I can manage to sell it for 1/2 of what I have invested right now..... I've put it on E-Bay, we'll just see what comes of that....you never know, it might just sell. Les

From my experience with my Weberized one, sounds like a vacuum issue, somewhere, plug popped off or cracked and leaking, EGR (as mentioned by others), broken or cracked hose, even an intake gasket that has a leak...intake to head?? Mine has done it a few times and has always been one of my several vacuum plugs either cracked, leaking, or while doing something, the engine would burp or backfire blowing off a vacuum plug somewhere, unawares to me until I tried to get it to idle. my $0.02 HbL

Any ideas how to do an "after market" pcv setup that doesn't suck oil from the valve cvr into the engine, esp during cornering? I've had that aggrivation since Weberizing mine. I have a small "cone" k&N type filter/breather on the right valve cover and a 5/8" hose running to the pcv valve on the left side but since there is no baffle in the valve cover, at high rpms and right hand turns under power, the hose sucks oil into the intake thru the pcv which, of course, makes for a great fogger. I have made pseudo baffling by placing some open cell foam at the connection of the pcv hose to the valve cover which has stopped the issue of sucking oil at hi rpms and turns, but has also dropped vacuum enough, it now is soaking the filter/breather on the right side at high rpms. Isn't a major issue unless sustained high rpm driving or sharp curves, but those are a part of my daily driving at times so I'd really like some input on how to get enough vacuum without sucking oil. Thanks, HbL

Thanks for the compliments....It is nice but I'm gettin' an awful lot tied up in it. No I haven't heard back from PK...I imagine he's about as busy as I am. I doubt if I make any moves until I get all the info I can on the subject. HbL

I have no opinion either way....just make sure you either have a replacement set before hand, in case you don't like the result.....or make sure you research the idea well and have a good idea of how much to cut, FIRST. I did my front and rears on my 89 5.0 coupe. It worked like a dream....on my Mustang. I also had to long slot the lower mount to my front struts to adjust the camber to prevent spending a bunch on overpriced camber plates...that option isn't open to Soobies. If you DO decide to cut, I would limit it to 1/8 - 1/4 turn at a time and try it for effect. Also, the best method (for someone without access to a machine shop, at least) is to use a DREMEL tool to cut them. If you don't have access to a DREMEL, a second best method would be by a hand-held (Weld-Hog) grinder with a cut-off wheel. Unless you find someone who has mucho-mucho experience, do not even think about using a cutting torch. Too much heat and will, even with heat sinking, ruin the temper of the metal and you'll end up with a nice set of heavy duty ink-pen springs. Besides, the Dremel or hand grinder method take less than 5 minutes and take really no prep other than safety issues. Just remember the 6 P's (actually there are 7 but 6 will suffice here).... Proper Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance That's my .02... Good Luck! HbL

Wellll, I ran across McBrat's article about EA-81s and using the 3" strut extension and lift but adding an inch under the engine crossmember, effectively raising the front an inch but leaving the struts and front suspension at the same level. That changes the front suspension to transmission level differences by an inch thereby lowering the axle angle and allowing for the front suspension to be turned down to achieve the same height but not as much camber change and axle angle. I'd think that by also adding the 4" strut extension, you'd be able to lower the height adjustment in the front by an inch or so but would still have less camber than with the 3" extension on the strut. I haven't done an EA-81 but on my EA-82, if you add an inch (or whatever) to the engine crossmember, you'd also have to add to the tranny crossmember. However, on my 3" lift, the engine crossmember lift blocks are 3" but the tranny ones are 2" so I wondered if there would be a 1:1 ratio for extra lift spacers (engine crossmember:tranny crossmember) or if the same 3:2 ratio (engine crossmember:tranny crossmember) would have to be maintained for extra lift to prevent bind, strange drivetrain angles, etc. I had contacted Patrick (PKDavis) about this and for some input on the subject and he replied that we needed to talk but I have not had any further contact. While I'm waiting, if anyone else has any experience or ideas???? Now, for those with a little insomnia, read on..... My camber isn't necessarily that far out, but in order for it to sit near level, I have to turn the front susp up at least 1/2-3/4 of the total allowed which causes some outer CV clicking on sharp turns and enough camber issues that the front starts to feel a little like it wants to follow the road at high speeds especially on not so good black top and when the roadways are somewhat slick.....Not necessarily so much as to be dangerous, but noticeably more unstable feeling than when the front is down all the way. If I turn it up all the way, it is pretty level but the camber is very obvious, the CV clicking is continual on most turns (due to inner angles) and it bounces hard on any rough road/railroad crossing/etc. The spring rate is so high at that setting, there is almost no suspension play (like 1 ton suspension on the rear of an empty pick-up). As far as the front strut spacer, I don't see any improvements that could be made on the design. It's designed about as far in at the top as will go.The top of the strut spacer sits as far in as possible, even with grinding on it as suggested on EA-81s....I really don't see much improvement available to the 3" strut spacer as designed...there is not much space in the tower for much different on that end. I think the whole system is designed (on my EA-82) to the best it can be for "bolt-on" and the only way to change anything relating to the camber issue (other than possibly the 4"/3" setup like available on the EA-82s) would be to add an inch or two to the axles and an inch or two to the "lower control arms" which would be more trouble than it's worth. Thus my investigation into the issue. Whew!!! A whole lotta' talk but not much action. I know what I was saying, I sure hope those interested enough to start reading can understand what I'm trying to describe before falling asleep. Thank you for your time, if you've made it this far, and I apologize for the length...:-\ HbL

McBrat, I know where you can get an 86, running and road ready, just ripe for a turbo RX conversion.......Hmmmm:brow:

Mo power..... I have a lead on a boneyard RX that is supposedly drivable. It has (I guess standard for the RX?) locking front diff, L/S rear diff, turbo, 5-speed, etc. The perfect swap to give my wagon about the only things it's missing....All 4 wheels powered PRN (as needed) and MO POWER. I'm waiting on some pics of the RX and to see what comes of my efforts to sell my wagon as she is before investing MORE. If I don't/can't sell for a reasonable amount and the RX thing works out I may just do the swap....I'll still have to find a daily driver to substitute while designing and building the "Superu" wagon. So I'm undecided at this point.... the RX is a few states away and quite a drive, even if it is drivable. So the whole deal will be quite another investment in time, money and efforts. Just dunno, yet, till all the facts are in. Anyway, y'all, thanks for the compliments and input. HbL

Oh, I'm not giving up, I've had it for about 4 years, I just have put a lot into it and since it's straight with no rust and in very good condition I'd almost be better of selling it and starting with somethin' new. But as long as I have it, though, it will continue to be a project. It's my daily driver and at >500 miles a week to work and back it has been as reliable as I could want and much more so than I expected when I got it. My ONLY REAL issue with it has ever been HORSEPOWER. It does fine for <100 HP and the Weber really made a difference, but I'd really like to have about 140 HP or more.....can't help it. It's in my blood. My last driver was an 89 5.0 Mustang coupe that had been warmed over and would clear the 1/4 mile in under 12 seconds (in street trim) and return 27 mpg on the highway and was as reliable as the Soob. (For some reason, though, it didn't do quite as well off road or in the snow...or rain.....as the Soob) I DO miss the power! If the wagon had 200 HP:slobber: and remaned as reliable as it has been, I believe it would be nearly the perfect car. Yeah, I know, "If pigs had wings....." Later, HbL

Patrick, Since I can't get on the board from work and I am gone 48 hours at a time, I'd be easier to catch at my work e-mail.... LHeitman@callawayambulance.org I got your message that you wanted to talk..... I'd kinda like to sell the Soob while it's pristine, again, before something else happens and I have to give it away or sink more dollars into it to fix it.... As long as I have it, though, it remains a project to become more refined....Keeps me out of trouble. I'd like to try the 4" on the front (leaving the 3" strut extensions) if that would allow less strut adjustment (Camber issue) and axle angle in the front but keep it level with the rear. I just don't know if that would work on the EA-82 as well as on McBrat's EA-81. Patrick, or anyone with any experience/ideas, gimme' an e-mail. I don't want to sink a lot into it and that should be fairly easy to accomplish. Patrick let me know what the costs would be of what I'd e-mailed you about and if that would be practical... HbL

For any interested, I have posted a few pics of my Soob after the repairs have been done to the hatch and rear bumper area. Click HERE to see my photo gallery. As it turns out, they didn't have the proper tool on the frame machine and tore some of the sheetmetal pulling so they had to replace the center section of the sheetmetal with new and then undercoat it. It actually turned out pretty good and has no leaks, runs, or errors. You'd have to inspect it pretty closely to even tell it had been bruised. The hatch shuts like new, and I even have a new WORKING speedometer, though it is from the 92 and has a light that comes on when the hatch isn't locked.....pretty annoying since I rarely lock it....It may be D/C'd soon, though. I also got the shop to re-clear coat the right rear quarter where gasoline spills had cracked the original clear coat. I guess I might oughta' think about selling it now before I do something else to it..... Maybe it's time for that "SVX project" I've been thinking of...If I could only find one within a days driving distance, Hmmm.:-\ HbL

Hey, McBrat, Not to change the topic but while here and on the subject of your " 5" lift"... I read your short 'how-to' on the 5" lift for EA-81. sounds like what I need for mine but is an EA-82. Have you tried the extra 1" mod for the front on an EA-82? I'm thinkin' I'd have to add an inch to the tranny crossmembers, too, so as to prevent binding or odd engine/tranny nose down angle...My tranny crossmember is only a foot or so behind my engine crossmember...any experience here?? Mine is my daily driver and I'd rather not take it back off the road any longer than necessary, ie. experimentation in uncharted waters with my daily driver. Anyhew, reqarding the original thread question about the EA-81 lift, for what it's worth, I'd go with the 4/3, too, I've found the extra inch in the front is nice with my 15's but don't like the unrelenting bouncing (VERY stiff, almost no give in the front), positive camber (feels a little unstable on uneven blacktop at highway speeds with the front camber when the struts are adjusted all the way up, especially on wet or snowy roads...>50-60 mph), and excess axle angle from adjusting the suspension all the way up. You can always adjust the front all the way down and play with the torsion-bar in the back if it seems 'too high' for you in the front...you just have the option of the extra 1" without the above problems should you decide you need/want it. Les

GOTO the photo gallery and you can see my (HillbillyLes) 86 GL wagon with 3" lift. I have 15" wheels and 27.5" diameter tires. I had to remove the front mud flaps and fold about 1-1.5 inches of the aft corner of the front fenders (the corner under where the mud flaps were. All fit with slight rubbing of the rear tires on the plastic/rubber trim strip around the fender lip when loaded pretty heavy and hit hard dips in the road. By measurements, the 27.5" tires were as tall as I could go without doing some serious fender work.

I've got a set of 15" steelies with new tires for sale. Price: $750... and I'll throw in the damaged 86 wagon complete with a ~90,000 mile Weberized Jap engine, 5-speed d/r tranny, 3" installed lift, et al. Les

Since I'm looking for an SVX (seems like they are all in the east-northeast per e-bay...haven't even found a salesman in MO who is familiar with what they are) I've been doing some research on what to look for when shopping, reliability issues, maint costs, etc. Apparently there are some real issues with the A/T in the SVX, especially pertaining to heat vs. tranny life. I understand that the SVX uses the same A/T as the Legacy, WRX, Forrester, etc. Do these other models have the same issues and if not, why not? I know the newer model trannies (94-97) had some reliability updates, at least in the SVX but the A/T still seems to be probably the weakest (and most expensive to resolve) link, even in the newer ones. Also, the wheel bearings and brake rotors seem to be areas of concern, too. Did Subaru eventually design a heavier update or will a newer part retrofit with more reliability, say WRX STi, Forester, or Outback? I think the issue with these related to the design of these being to weak/small to hold up the the weight of the car reliabily for long term. Just thought I'd pose the questions to see if anybody knew.....I've visited the SVX site and they talk a lot about replacing and repairing but haven't heard anyone ask why the tranny issue, at least from my experience, seems to be isolated to the SVX. Nor have I seen anyone ask about retrofiting wheel bearings or discs from something current..... Les

5-speed tranny swaps use the legacy/wrx/etc tranny....not sure of the nomenclature.

Check the pressure limiting resistor behind the battery. Some disconnect it to firm up the shifts but apparently that also allows it to hunt or skip gears when downshifting among other things. May not be the problem but should be quick and easy to check the resistor and to make sure it is connected. Les

Sorry for the delay...been busy gettin' the Soob back on the road. Had to trim about 1" from the back of the front fender at the base. No rubs, now and drives actually better (has a more stable feel and turns seem more precise) and hardly any difference in power between 185\80-13 and 205\75-15 tire change....Only now, due to the low torque of the 1.8, highway speeds are maintained (70-80 mph) in headwinds and hills by remaining in 4th gear. In 5th, at 2800-3000 RPM the engine has a hard time fighting headwinds and steeper hills at 70MPH. Regarding the lift....I have the standard 3" "Ozified" kit available from PK Davis here on the Board or at his site... www.Ozified.com. My 86 has the 85 adjustable front and rear spring height adjustments. In the pic, I have both the front and rear adjusted all the way up...Wish I had another 1" in the front on the lift cause it rides pretty stiff in the front with the spring adjusted all the way up (gives an additional 1" or so) but there are no 4" for the front, as far as I know. I could do some other options, thanks to some ideas from McBrat, but don't have the motivation to re-engineer right now...maybe later when I have more time. Hope this helps...any more questions, ask on the board, there are lots of experienced and knowledgable "Subarites" here. Anything specific you want to know about mine or from me, feel free to PM me here on the Board or e-mail me @ lheitman@callawayambulance.org. HbL