HillbillyLes

If you're interested, I just put 15 " Puges on my lifted 86 wagon...It's a D/R 5-speed. The tires are the shortest 75 series (narrow) I could get in 15's...205/75X15. I haven't driven it, yet so can't give a comparison in power between the 185/13's and the 205/15's but I can say the tires are about 27.3" diameter and they rub fairly well when I turn the wheels very much so I will have to so some "cosmetically correct" fender trimming at the rear of the front fenders before I can go far. My pics are on my Webshots page under the file: "Ozified...86 subaru". The pics with the new 15's are at the end of the list of pics...I just added them today. http://community.webshots.com/user/hillbillyles That might give ya' an idea of what the tires and wheels will look like with an Ozified EA-82 lift. Les

As another source for a 2-core (for an EA-82)... I got my 2-core at Auto Zone. It was listed as stock replacement for a newer Automatic Tranny Loyale. It fit fine into my 86 EA-82 with a slight bit less clearance between rad and mechanical fan. Only had to modify the Right radiator hose as the angle coming from the rad was slightly different. Just used a stock formed hose for the same Loyale and cut it to length to fit. I don't remember the exact cost, somewhere just over $100. With a 160 deg thermostat runs plenty cool but I am running a 5-speed and unfortunately no A/C .... from the factory (Who ordered this thing without A/C, anyway??!) HbL

Hey, Mick (McBrat)... I was in the process of writing and editing my post...I hate this old keyboard with sticking keys... After I finally got my post up, I went back and read what you've done... I presume that is the adapter you ground the inside edge from. Looks like that might help a little but I don't know, on my EA-82, how much hammer-modification I can do to make more spring room. I may try it when I put the 15's on. Good idea ... and fairly simple! Hoo-Yah!! Les

Yes,the Ozified and BYB lifts do have as much camber correction built in as possible since when lifting the car, the camber goes way positive. Mine, also (86 EA-82 wagon) has a slight positive camber and considerably more noticable if I adjust the struts all the way up. There are quite a few of us running them, out there (though maybe not mostly on the highway like me) and I think if it were a major issue then PK or BYB and the guys from Oz who engineered them would have done something different. Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do to get more neg. camber because when lifted, the automatic built in camber correction puts the strut as close to the inside strut tube wall as physically possible without doing major reconstruction to enlarge the strut tube on the car. If one were to be so motivated, they could split the tube and reform it to an oval running laterally so the strut top could be moved in further but I don't know that the re-engineering time and effort would be very cost effective in the long run. I have had mine on for about 2 years. I (right now) am still running the 13" wagon wheels with 185/80-13's and drive about 15,000-20,000 miles per year on the highway in the car. I can't say that mine has had any exceptional tire wear due to the positive camber, though when I lift the front struts all the way to level the car it does seem like I start to get a little outside tread wear, but nothing obnoxious. I'm on my second set of tires in about 50,000 mi. My first set were lug type snow tread tires so any wear at all on the edge really stood out and the compound wasn't optimum for high mileage highway driving (they discontinued them in 13's). The current set are highway type tread and edge wear is negligible after 10-12,000 miles. As far as handling due to pos camber, I can't tell much, if any, difference post-stock that can't be explained rather by the higher ctr. of gravity than positive camber. It would be nice to be able to get the camber down to at least 0 deg when lifted all the way cause it sure looks silly when I adjust it up and the tires are leaning out at the top going down the highway. I'm getting ready to put some 205/75-15's on it. I'm curious to see how the extra height will affect the look (positive camber)....with a taller tire, it may stand out less.(I hope). HbL

I was reading your issues and wish I could help but have no experience with turbo Soobs. I, however, am thinking of replacing the NA Soob engine with a Turbo version if/when mine goes Tango-Uniform...I'd like to do a WRX powerplant but don't have the time, patience, money, or facilities. A turbo EA-82 is a long way from the WRX, I know, but it does have a little more power and some hop up potential over the naturally aspirated version. Any more power is better, especially after I get the 15's put on, since most of my driving is at interstate speeds. Anyway, good luck with your probs. Seems like you haven't had much response but give it time and keep bumping it up and someone surely will come to the rescue. HbL

In short, No, Buick (GM) 5-lug rims will not fit onto the 5-lug Subaru. HbL

In answer to "Is Armorall evil?" NO! Just misunderstood. Let me explain and maybe shed some light... I've heard the cautions and rumors about Armorall. In >25 years use, I've found them to be largely unfounded. Most of the issue is from those with fading or cracking (dry rot) or other issues they've tried to resolve with Armorall and it WILL HELP with these issues, however, the issues are still there, just "covered" by the protective coating of Armorall. Thus when they cease to regularly use the Armorall, the issues become obvious once again and usually multiplied because once dry rot and other things start, they cannot be reversed and they continue even though "covered". If they have been covered for a while, also, when they return due to disuse of the protectant the area seems worse than ever due largely to perception. Armorall brand and Son of A Gun brand use diltued silicone as the main ingredient. Silicone is a water-based lubricant and when used at the proper dilution rate, leaves a very light protective coating (as advertised) and a 'Shine'. The other brands, Turtle Wax 2000 and others including generics, have the same Silicone base but are much more dilute. They have less silicone and more water (usually) or other dilute to 'thin down' the mixture. That's why some of the generics don't leave as much "shine" as the name brand. I also have a formula you might not be aware of that will save a little cash. If you have used and like "RainX" (I do and we used it in the Army on our helicopter windshields) you can make your own....just be sure to NOT make the mixture with MORE Armorall than called for...too much will leave streaking and make a mess. Too much and your window or windshield will streak like you have WD-40, wax, or car-wash 'polish' on it...because that's what the silicone does. This is one case where a little goes a long way and too much spoils the pot. "RainX" You need a spray bottle, Armorall, and water. Mix the Armorall and water to a mixture of NO GREATER THAN 1 part Armorall to 10 parts Water. (You can add some rubbing alcohol to the mixture, if you like...up to maybe 1/4 as much alcohol added as is in the water and Armorall.The alcohol not only helps in the emulsification and dilution but helps the mixture evaporation rate when sprayed). I say again (cannot stress enough!) no more Armorall than the 10:1 ratio of Water to Armorall, then add the alcohol (if desired) to the mixture. Add the mixture to the spray bottle. Spray on the window, windshield, mirror, or other glass and wipe with a lint free cloth. A haze will develop, keep wiping until the glass is clear. This not only works great for wiper free water sprays or rain on the windshield, but is a great glass polish for car shows, etc. Use it inside and out and you won't believe how "clear" the glass is. That's a lot for 2 cents worth but maybe it will help. HbL

'Crescents are o.k. on nuts that big' (and to torque 145 lb.ft.)......... and they call ME "Hillbilly". You're right, they will work...in a pinch, but sometimes a little investment in the proper tool goes a long way. Suit yourself... Just an observation. HbL

Hey, I want 150 streetable HP from MY EA-82 as mentioned could be done to an EA-81 above! Who has the blueprint or the parts list? Share the wealth! HbL

Hi, Welcome to the board. Let's see if I can get things rollin' with a challenge, since you used to be a tech. I have an 86 D\R 5-speed, Weberized (EA-82), 3" lift Ozified wagon. Without nitrous, blower, or twin intercooled turbos, how can I squeeze about 200 streetable HP from the 1800 cc engine? Also, I'd like to do it for under $1500. Any suggestions? Just kidding! Welcome to the board! HbL

If you've checked it out, what did you find? Sounds like it's doing the same as my 86 5 sp d/r wagon. Speedo is buried at highway speeds but strangely enough, the odometer is registering mileage correctly. Haven't noticed oil at the connection of the cable to the speedo head. Curious to see what you found on yours... HbL

***Bump***

BYB, You have a Private Message.

Thanks for the input... The speedo head is dry (no oil drips) at the cable input. I checked out the same type Q&A on the 'New Gen' section and it appeared to matter whether it was an AT or MT. I have the 5 speed D/R tranny. Will that matter in the seal leak issue? Thanks... HbL

If feasible, you could sell one wagon, buy the Brat, and towbar it to Az. behind the wagon you plan to keep. May be slow traveling in the Mtns but would increase carrying capacity for moving all your stuff and would get both Soobs to the destination in one trip. Just a thought, for what it's worth... HbL

Thank you for the input. I'm sure that the issue is in the speedometer, itself. The cable is new. Has been replaced without effect on the speedometer issue. The speedometer pegs out past 85 MPH by the time the car is travelling 40 MPH or so. That would indicate to me that the head or needle/indicator movement is dry, sticking, or other issue that causes it to turn close to 1:1 with the cable which it shouldn't do since it is turned indirectly by the cable using a magnetic field rather than cable directly turning the speedometer needle. I haven't had it apart, yet, so am no expert, but have had speedometers apart from other vehicles and am familiar with their operation...just would like input so I don't have to go into it blind (since I don't have a replacement should something come apart that is irrepairable). Any other ideas? Any and all input accepted and appreciated. HbL

I don't know if my problem is related but... while on the subject of speedometers, another question for those who might have had probs. My car sat on a Sheriffs impound lot for a couple of years in Texas before I bought it. When I got it, the speedometer needle would jump at speeds up to about 50 or so then over that would smooth out and read steady. After a while it started doing what it continues to do which is at about 25 it reads way high, maybe 60MPH and is pegged out by about 30 or 40 MPH actual speed, therefore, without the tach I have no idea of my speed as it shows 85+ MPH at anything over 30 or 40. I am wary to tear into it without having a suggestion from some who might have run into this before. It seemed to act like the needle (speedometer head) needed to be lubed before it started pegging out at low speeds but there aren't many (soobs w/ good speedometers) left in the yards around here so didn't want to entirely ruin what I had by ripping it apart to troubleshoot if I could find a possible solution to prevent troubleshooting and experimentation. Any ideas? :-\ HbL

Let me know if you come across a set of 15" steelies. HbL

You can do it either way. (Personally, after reading the above article, I'd lean towards full-time/mainfold vacuum but..) Depends on your liking... 1. Connect it to full time vacuum (manifold). Take it for a drive or drive a tank of fuel thru it. 2. Connect it to the ported vacuum connector on the Carb. Take it for a drive or drive a tank of fuel thru it. Which feels "better" to you when you are driving it in the environment you usually drive (highway, city, off-road, full-throttle racing, etc). If you have driven thru a tank of fuel each way, does either get better or worse fuel mileage? Just do a comparison each way... and settle for the way that gives you the most satisfaction. BTW, computerized, FI engines usually don't have the vacuum advance but do electronically advance the distributor at idle. Check the timing, sometime, or a 'shop manual'. When you set the base timing, you have to make connections to the harness to effectively retard the timing at idle to the base setting before it can be set, then when the connector is removed, the timing "re-advances" at idle. HbL

If any more, keep me in mind, too. I got in too late for the order. I will have to have something in the XL range. Let me know if you have more or when you plan to re-order. May the grace of our Lord Jesus Christ be with you. HbL

Remains to be seen, for sure, but I'm not counting it out. I'm most definitely a 'maybe'. It looks like most (so far) are coming in from the north and/or west...For any traveling in from the south or southeast, if you are traveling Highway 63 north of I-70/Columbia in Missouri, feel free to drop me a line and maybe we can meet up on your way through coming or going, if I can't make it to the Meet....or if you ever just happen to be in the area. I live in the Moberly area, about 35 miles north of Columbia or about 40 miles south of Kirksville. Have a good and Godly day! :wave: HbL

It'd be nice to meet some of the crew I message with. Had the opportunity to meet McBrat a couple of years ago nearby, but we missed each other, unfortunately. It's about a 5 hour drive, which I realize is much closer than any other meet and closer to me than to many others who will make the trip but with wife, 2 boys, and 2 jobs. I kinda' have to pick my time off and travels (my interests) vs. summer vacation (family interests) budget and vacation time off availability. Family would enjoy it, too, but I just do so much.....I'm sure y'all know the story. I'd like to come and am not counting it out entirely. If I don't get the chance to go; Anyone passing through the Moberly, MO area on Hwy 63 (north of Columbia) enroute to or on return trip could get in touch and we could meet up and chat over coffee or lunch...I can give my address or POC (point of contact) info to anyone interested via e-mail or private message. Have a good and Godly day! :wave: HbL

Thanks, y'all... It's great to be back. I'll try to keep in touch more often. HbL Psalm 91:11-12

Hi, I apparently have been away longer than I realized. I tried to log-in and found that I was no longer registered. I have now re-registered with a new e-mail address. I noticed that there are now more than a 3 of us that are posting from the "Show-Me" state. I was curious to see how many and where y'all are in the state but it would seem that the "Who's Who" page is either no linger in effect or has been moved. Can anybody update me? HbL http://community.webshots.com/user/hillbillyles