mickytrus

So if it is a tiny bit and then the chirping goes away..... The key is to determine.......... the distance of "free play".. (which is just the distance from the "at rest" location of the throw out bearing..... to when it first touches the diaphram spring of the pressure plate.....) My hunch is that it is not the throw out bearing....... perhaps, the clip that holds the shifter fork to the ball...... It is easier to feel "free play" with your hand on the clutch pedal..... I would even go so far as pulling up with your hand on the pedal... see if that changes things....(probably not... but, good to establish either way) so after pulling up with your hand bring it down to the point of tension... The distance your hand travels is the "free play"... Listen for the sound..... during this process.. see if you can push clutch with your hand into the release process... and make sound go away.... No different than a foot.... but, just trying to establish..."at which point does it infact disappear..... and also what if you hold the fork with your hand while vehicle idles???

how far in do you have to push the clutch in to notice the lack of chirping....

Dig it! THanks!

Nice work there..... no rust under that car....... pretty nice......... We humans over here,,,,, We exhale rust! Micky

Is there a spring on the fork ( Clutch fork return spring) This spring pulls the fork back to a rest position so that the throw out bearing can maintain it's distance from the clutch diaphragm spring I hear what you are talking about..... and saw your statement, that it goes away when you push the clutch in... Does this behavior.... always exist???? like when car is cold car is hot...... at night... during day etc etc.....

Thanks!.... I listened and I think if you were to determine at what point in the vid (location range is seconds) you want to address... that would make sense... I hear a high chirp at about 6 seconds in... I also hear something later in the vid towards the end.... That aspect with you looking in the clutch disengagement system..... Did you notice any change in your noise whie pushing the clutch in and out repetitively?..... The sound that I am about to refer to.... (the one at 6 sec)......... to me is a creaking kind of sound....... maybe even (am I am only speculating) a weld joint which cracked..... (IE: in part of the exhaust system) Also:::::::: Something to try .... Something to think about....... "Can you create the scenario to produce the chirp" "Can you change something to stop the chirp" Without actually determining what it cause is....................... Can (you) either have a Positive or negative affect on it......... Micky

I would wait on a battery...... First,, do a simple test........ loosen positive battery terminal(with car off -- and make sure car was previously running) start car...... let Idle a minute or two or three... now while idling..... lift positive cable terminal off the battery post.......... Does it continue to run????? or does it stall.....????? If it continues to run........ then the alternator is providing enough power to run the vehicle.....

In your video you mention a link to actually hearing your chirping.......... Is that link posted somewhere already.... I haven't seen where to access it....... The throw out bearing does not sit against the clutch Diaphram Spring...... Continuously..... (if it was to do this it would overheat the bearing and prematurely wear it out) You can have some lube on your moving parts in there Throw out bearing fork ball (lube) Throw out bearing fork fingers (lube) and when where throw out bearing slides on sleeve on input shaft of tranny (some lube) a nice film... don't over do it....... But, yeah...................... I would like to hear you chirp........ My cars we made a joke about a chirp I get...... I be damned! if I could figure it out.... Then one day it came to me....... but, we said.....when we heard the chirping that the "wild turkey is back!" and it did it sounded like that and it sounded like it was coming from the clutch area I always thought it was the throw out bearing....... NOW my sound was only hear at driving speeds...... not in neutral idling.... Mine turned out to be......... The electric radiator cooling fan....... and this would only happen in the winter.... what was happening the fan would get blasted with road wind and spin on its own and that was making the turkey chirp sound......... I would like to hear your chirp video Thanks, MIcky

Yeah, Sooooo..... It followed with my thoughts above (see blurb :: Here is a thought) So it is on there torqued to 20 ftlbs Aye, let me know what you think..... THanks, Micky

REPLYING TO:::::::::: is it a locking nut..... ?????????????? DESCRIPTION OF THE NUT: It is the nut that was on the tierod end before I disassembled it. The nut is rounded on the one side(top) The nut is Flat on the tightening (down) side I would have to say that from the experience with locking nuts I have used/been exposed to in the past (IE: exhaust manifold nuts on VW A2 1.6L Diesels) THAT This tierod end nut has a similar look to it........ (here is a thought) When I thread the nut on..... I can verify/determine,,,,, if there is any resistance.... If there is resistance while threading it on (at that moment and then there after) where the threads of rounded side of nut begin to thread onto the tierod, Can We say,,,,, this is a good indication that the functionality of the locking nut aspect of this nut is still acceptable? *****(with all things being considered ie: rusty stuff tends to be stiff and not thread together well anyway) [ I will clean it up with wire brushes before assembly] And yeah, I suppose I could thread some thread locker on there.... Blue? Green? Red? Thanks, Micky

Ok, THanks! Yeah, not a problem getting 150 on my torque wrench........ got plenty of snipes around........ My fav snipe being an ol' piece of one inch brass water line from back in the day. though six footer is piece of galvanized As for this tierod end nut....... not a cotter pin........... It is ok just to use it again?

Hey, Just looking for some torque specifications... So I can put this driver's side back together... Axle nut torque ? Lower ball joint ? Tierod end ? (TieRod end nut is not a castle nut, not cotter pin) REUSABLE????? where to get a new nut Tierod end is still fine..... Thanks, Micky

So,,,,,, Looks like I gotta rip one side completely down.......... Wheel bearings are toasted...... So I have some questionsss?????? What is the size of the axle nut? (what is the torque on it too) I think I got this covered 32MM Can I reuse the nut? What about the tierod end nut ,,,,,,,,, It's not a castle nut(as what I am used to seeing) Can TIe Rod nut be reused?????? What about the hub.............. Car has 170K on it....... Basically What is the best way to go about this I have seen some sorta wheel hub kits out there..... Let me know what you think! Thanks, Micky

Much Thanks!.... I will prepare fo' the worst and strive fo' the best! I'll soak them with some PbBlaster.... for a little while... and yeah make sure my tank eZ got some Acetylene in it...... Hopefully, I can Wrangle it out without the tool.... But, a nice tool it is at that!...... good to know....... Micky

Aye, I was just wondering......... I have done a ton of the ball joints on Loyales..... Not really much different....... (the vehicle is a 98 Outback) The only thing here...... Is that in the past I would pull the whole shaft and steering knuckle out of the vehicle and sorta do a complete disassembly............ etc etc...... WHat I would like to currently do in this situation with the Outback:::::::::::::::::::::::::; IS not remove the steering knuckle(hub assembly) or shaft ........ can you fill me in ...... Is there a method/procedure to just separate lower ball joint from control arm... and remove it from the steering knuckle with out doing anything else(or close to )..... Currrently::::::: I have the car up on stands.... all the tires are removed.... I am giving this ol' girl a "Belly Rub" for the winter climate conditions Thanks, MIcky

Hey, Thanks for all the input..... I will write up how it goes.... Got the line coming......... wish I could have found the NICOPP black oxide fittings somewhere....... I will call my local favorite supplier and see what they offer..... probably just zinc coated........... I like the idea of tubing that I don't have to fight to flare it....... Just have to be careful not to "maul" the stuff... due to it being soft.... Thanks, Micky

Thanks! yeah, I will get a roll of that copper nickel brake line..... I am striving to put another 100k on this car... These are the "Double Flare" connections.... I am figuring........... NOT "Bubble Flare" ,,,, Correct?????

Yeah, by all means.........(know the vehicle)............... check the oil frequently...... check the coolant......... monitor it's behavior......... and observe............... I got to hear some stuff today on a boxer motor that I have..(1.8L)..291k....... It is so cold out...here........ Got to hear gurgling in the heating system when I first started it up................. I may be due....... soon........ I just warm the car up to operating temp before........ getting the REV's up.......... that seems to help for the time being............. It is best to not open Pandora's box........ If the gaskets are not leaking just watch and observe....... I have had 5 - 1.8L......(five different cars)..... one motor made it to 220k without leaking.... some leaked oil... some leaked coolant.... some leaked both..........

Yeah, determine if vehicle is throwing any codes.... It is not OBDII but...... (not actually familiar) with but.... I probably does the blinking lite gig... when you turn key... Determine where the blinking lite location is of your OBC2......... I had old Loyaless.... they had the blinking lite gig..... had to remove panel below steering column... but,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Ask where your is..... If bad knock sensor......... I would think you would have a blinking lite code for that active in your OBC2..... I got one on the EEEEEE buh aye......... rather cheap.......(knock sensor)

Neutral safety switch? I haven't had an auto matic in years....... but, that would be my inclination.

Aye! Hello to all and Happy New Year! Spent my evening in the garage.... blistering cold here..... Anyway, I was wondering why my rear brakes were not really working well.... seemed that the rotors were not cleaning up.... the car sat for ages... and rear rotors were rather rusty...... So my answer for the lame rear brakes is rear rotted brake line syndrome........... It is the driverside that is actually leaking...... What I would like to know...... Is what people have been doing to reroute these puppies...... (they run over the top of the fuel tank) looks like they drop down on the passenger side (from inside) ( I guess there are two lines because of the ABS) So please chime in....... make my life easier here..... Thanks! Micky

It has drum brakes... I believe it is three piece... two bearings one outer race... One thing is that I gave then machine shop 2 swing arms..... My thoughts are that,,,,,, they didn't even press out the outer race. just left it in there.... The reason I say this... is because when I actually got the swing arms back........ the Swing arm that I was not using ,(the donor),,,,, still had the outer race in it.... Hence, they just popped out the outer bearing and spined stubbed shaft and put it in the desired(to be used) swing arm. With this in mind....(During disassembly) I had a really tough time getting the drum off....... I blunted the end of the splined stubbed shaft with a sledge hammer(literally distorted its shape) I am thinking all the hammering I did(to get the drum off)..... possibly moved the bearing assembly unit inward(particularily the outer race) To me this sounds like the explanation of this situation.... Is this possible? which side does the out race press in from?? (is it the inside(axle shaft side of swing arm?) So this misalignment???? how will this play into the life of things?(meaning the life of this bearing??? Is the outer bearing seated properly in it's outer race(being that the outer race is apprx. 1/4" in deeper????? Thanks, Micky

I did drop off two swing arms to the machine shop.... and A driverside swing arm was the location of the donor axle bearing..... for the passenger side(to be used/installed) swing arm... too many (duplicate) parts on the tool bench top at once????

Right,,,, It should sucked in towards the hex nut when tightened(I would think???) So, if you could enlighten me on this here (see below)... The collar(bearing retainer nut?) on the inside of swing arm(where you would use special tool#(xxxxx) but, a punch be could be used instead..... (possibly by shade tree mechs) After the collar has been removed, then,,, and only in the direction towards where the collar threads in, is the only way to get the bearing out? (the way the bearing is purchased is on piece, it is pressed in as one piece --- it is a self contained unit of two independant tapered roller bearing it can't be separated) If someone can explain the process of bearing removal and installation it would be appreciated... My concern is.... where the stop is for the bearing.....

it's like the shaft is 5/16" in.... No dice on lining up the holes with the axle nut. and 200 foot pounds is not sucking the shaft out towards the nut. So I resulted in not putting the crush washer on....(not really a solution) I drove it a bunch maybe fifty miles... checked it today... it is still the same.... I even removed the nut put a new cotter pin in it.........today........ Micky