Pontiac6KSTEAWD
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Posts posted by Pontiac6KSTEAWD
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I have the above mentioned vehicle. It has a 5 speed manual tranny in it. What I am trying to find out is what are all the interchanges for it? Will a Subaru Legacy GT work? or?
I have been told by some yard that some tranny will work, and others that wont.
Also, if anyone has pics of this it would help. But there are 2 fill and drain sections to this tranny. You can check and fill the dif by the dipstick. But where are the check, fill, and drain for the tranny itself, and the drain for the front dif.
What are the fluids used in the 2 sections of the tranny as well?
Help on this would be greatly apreciated. Got some odd noise going on in the tranny, and I am hoping its just low on fluid for the tranny side, because the dif is full.
The sooner the better!! TIA!
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Need more pics! NOW!
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Wait till I get moved out to Denver. I have a few trails that are just apsolutely stellar. Plenty of OH MY GOD trails, and the veiws man, the veiws!!!
Some of the veiws from my trail... (sorry about the cell phone pics)
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Yup, already deleted some dups and bad shots, but:
2 of my Favorite cars on the forum in there. The Legacy Sedan lifted, and the GL sedan lifted... MORE PICS PLEASE!
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You might stop by a Tint shop, and ask their opinion. Some of them deal with installing aftermarket rear window defrosters, and might have input on this.
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I would probly start by checking the wiring that goes from the body of the car, to the body of the hatch lid. Where they join is that little flex tube, with all the wiring in it. I have seen where the electrical current is cut because there isnt enough wire connection because the flexing of the wire has broken the internal strands.
I hope that makes sense.
I have also heard that doing the alternator upgrade helps alot on the older Subies with smaller alts. To much power consumption by the rear defrost then the alternator can put out.
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I have not owned the TaurusX or the FreeStyle, However, I have to agree. The one I test drove was very comfortable, decent power, and the best thing, they can be had CHEAP AS HELL, if you know where to look for them.
The local ford dealer had a FreeStyle that was a Premium Touring model, just fully loaded to the gills, still under factory warranty, needed nothing, price. 12k.
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If its a 4 speed auto, it could be the button to turn off OverDrive.
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If you are going to use this as a daily driver, I would keep the AC, you never know when you might have to use it for yourself because weather turns to hot for you, or if you might carry your grandparent to the doctor or something and want to keep them comfortable while keeping yourself comfy at the same time.
Now if you are going to raise it, and use it offroad only, with a bit of daily driver, than I would probly ditch the system.
Me personally, I wont buy a car that doesnt have AC. Everything I drive is a daily driver, and I cant/wont deal with heat.
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How much are you looking to spend? Or a better question might be, how much are you looking for on a monthly payment?
The reason I ask, to keep the payment down, you could lease a new one, 3 years, get a lower payment, and then finish the buyoff at the end of the lease. Makes things somewhat cheaper in the long run, and if you really decide you dont like it, return the lease. This is what I did.
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Having just returned the leased 06 model (3 year lease), and test driving a used 08 they had on the lot, I have one thing to say... DON'T GET THE 06-07...
The 06 was absolutely gutless when driving up the pass out of golden heading up to Idaho Springs. The transmission is always hunting for gears, and the fuel mileage isn't that great. This applies to both the 06 and 07 (they didn't change anything but interior options for those years).
Now test driving the 08 model, bigger engine, more TQ, same HP. Much better programming on the transmission, Fuel mileage is the same, but I was much happier knowing the car now had the power to get out of its own way. Make sure you get the 7 passenger model (I know you need one, but just saying), the 5 passenger doesn't come with rear air, and its not available in the 5 passenger, and the AC can not keep up with what I needed. I assume its better in the 7 passenger with rear air.
The 06 also doesn't come with a MP3 hook up in the center console, and cant be added (according to the dealer), however the 07+ do come with it as a standard feature.
That being said, the 06 model I had was the most sure footed car I have ever driven in harsh weather. There wasn't enough support in the seat for my back, but it was OK for local driving. Make sure you opt for the upgraded sound system, the base model is completely lacking.
The 08+ came with bigger side view mirrors, which are a BIG help on the car. The 08+ headlights are not as powerful as the 06-07, but are very close.
Other than that, both the 06-07 and the 08-09 are pretty much the same. The 08+ have a much better look to me.
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tan... damn..
Wrong color
thanks thou..
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If you dont mind, what color was the interior? We are looking for a driver side door panal.
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As I said over the phone bro, got to wait until the new cat and O2 sensor gets warmed up, and fully programmed into the computer, to see if another check engine code comes up. Would also be curious to see if your fuel milage picks up after the O2 sensor replacement,.
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Thats the best option I see. The H6 definetly has the power to pull it. would be more comfortable, and be able to carry some of the stuff you need. The rest can be put in the XT6, and have the best of both worlds when you get there.
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Subaru did really well with the cash for clunkers. Its the only automaker that every car, except one (the tribeca), qualified. My local dealer did 3x their normal sales with the CARS. On the downside thou, 2 SVX's did get turned in on it, and ALOT of jeeps.
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A little more investigation..
According to everything that I have found, a 01 Legacy Outback does NOT have a EGR valve. Only the Forester and the Impreza for that model year had one. This new engine came off a 01 Legacy Outback AWP (all weather package). We swapped the intake from the old engine, and put it on the new engine, which is where the EGR would be located, if it had one. Which it doesnt. So I think this car does NOT have a EGR valve to begin with.
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2 Cylinders lost compression. Unknown as to why, we really didnt dig into far cause the new engine had 52k, and was 300 bucks.
There isnt any wiring for the EGR system? First time I have ever seen that. The picture the website has shows a 2 wire plug, but it could be a generic picture..
We looked at the emissions label under the hood. It makes no mention of a EGR valve, in writing, or in the pic. I still have the old engine in storage (its for sale if anyone wants it), I will have to go down there and take a look at her.
If there is a diference inbetween the two engines, then what?
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3 weeks laterm, after the engine install, the test was done, Colorado Emissions crap... Already did the PCV valve at engine install...
Sheet reading numbers from the inspection..
HC Reading 0.531 Limit 1.2
CO Reading 6.6509 Limit 15.0
CO2 Reading 402.2405 Limit NA
NOX Reading 1.4174 Limit 1.5
Took a closer look at the engine. According to Subaru dealer the old engine had a EGR valve, the new engine does not. The engine came out of 01 Outback AWP (VIN verified), however the new engine was a automatic, and the car its in is a 5 speed. So not sure if this has anything to do with it. There was also a diference in the Crankshaft timing belt cog. But we swapped that over, and no problems as of yet.
The odd part is that I cant even find the wiring harness for the EGR valve, and neither can the dealer..
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Ok guys, Working on my 01 Legacy Outback, with 190k miles.
Some details..
Subaru issue
Had car inspected. NOx reading was 14.2, limits is 15.0
Even though it passed, was advised to have it looked at.
Recommendations are either
1) replace or clean EGR Valve
or
2) replace Cat. pipe w/ both O2 sensors
2001 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5ltr manual transmission
Following have been replaced in the last 3 weeks.
Engine (used w/ 52k mileage), Plugs and Wire-set, All belts (timing belt, drive belts), Differential fluid, M/T Fluid, Antifreeze, Oil Change, Fuel/Air filter, fuel injectors (30k ago), driveshaft/camshaft seals, clutch, and lots of other stuff.
Suggestion about how to correct the NOX. We did have a check engine light after the new engine was put in. We reset it, and it hasnt come back. So not lights on the dash..
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Those adapters are both 5x100 and 5x115. With a 1/2 inch offset, the only problem i see is grinding down the old studs after its bolted together to allow better flush. The best offset that I can think of are going to be Ford Mustang wheels, or Crown Vics. They have a bolt pattern of 5x114.3 which will fit the 5x115 pattern no problem.
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The only thing I can think of is that under throttle, you have more rotation, or tq thrust. But in either case, I really cant explain it either. I have been tracking down this sound on my 01 for years. I gave up.
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I beleive you can rent the socket from Autozone too...
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With what you just discribed, it sounds like it might be the tranny input shaft bearing.
However, if it is, I am not sure I would worry alot about it. My 01 has been making that sounds for over 65000 miles, and still runs cherry.
2001 Subaru Outback
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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The cross reference I have found shows the Outback with a 3.90 FDR. Do you have a chart showing something else?
The chart I found shows my outback having a TY754VCBCA transmission.
Also, does anyone know where I can find one of these trannys? In Colorado. The tranny in the car still works, but makes this weird chirping sound when in motion, engine on or off. The tranny shop I took it to is saying they would have to take the tranny out to find out what is going on. And at that point, its more cost effective to just replace the thing, I think anyways.
It could be a output bearing, or a input bearing. But I have never heard one of those making a chirping sound. Litterally like a bird chirping. Its not a constant squeal, just a chirp chirp chirp. To me, it does not sound internal.
This sound started right after we replaced the motor, and clutch. Everything works, just a very annoying sound. My current job means I use about a tank of gas a month, working from home. But my job just changed, where I will have to drive a bit more, about a tank or more a week. So I want to get this fixed befor it turns ugly.. Car currently has 190k on it.