etc

Fluid is not going to fix it, you have to dremmel the surfaces (on pics) to get them smooth. That's the only thing that worked for me.

May not buy this new '99 I saw... According to seller, the true miles are much higher than stated, the odometer was replaced. It's actually also at 150K miles. Unless I get really cheap (way under 2K) probably not worth messing with it as I will be back to the same issues I had with this one (Torque bind, timing belt, radiator, oil leaks, etc. and maybe even have new and interesting problems I never encountered before, like suspension work) The 98 Brighton wagon is back together - the plan is to drive for a few months and look for something better. Poorly, but it's driving. I am not really sure I want to go for newer Outback post 2000 as they all seem to have 2.5L engine (though my 2.2L is not that good either as it turns out)

The diagnosis is damaged crankshaft and keyway twisted. I am sure it's fixable but I don't really have the skills set to do it reasonably fast, I will probably have it apart for months until I get it back together.

It appears that this 98 Legacy Brighton wagon reached the end of the road. The terminal illness diagnosis was pronounced today -- turns out the cause of it running extremely poorly (zero acceleration when cold, constant misfire on all 4 under throttle). Turns out the crankshaft went bad, it wobbles when running and something disintegrated inside. I looked at it in the disassembled state and it wasn't right. The timing is royally screwed up even though the marks line up under the timing belt covers. The mechanic said the engine had to come out for this work, at least the radiator, or better yet get a new engine. There is a major camshaft leak, on top of engine also, the timing belt needs replacement and the truth is, I don't care for the Brighton model, lack of power windows and other stupid stuff like no tach is getting to me. Now the rear hatch is stuck, impossible to open it. As I said, with it running poorly, not sure how much I can get for it. 500 bucks maybe? If that, I would rather part it out. It does run however, you just need to floor it (and enjoy 15MPG that it gets). Probably just a question of time when it destroys the catalytic convert with the timing so badly messed up. The other option is to tear it apart and sell the parts I don't need and keep lots of spare parts for this newer Legacy. The reason for parts car, I found a 1999 "L" wagon, a step above Brighton with power locks and a real tach and much lower miles (90K versus 150K): I wonder (assuming I buy the 99 wagon) if I should keep the 98 wagon as a spare parts car. It seems the 98 Brighton wagon is basically the same as a 1999 L wagon. I have a new radiator ($200), new windshield and some other parts installed on the 98 wagon. Also have timing belt, water pump (but not installed, they were intended for 98 2.2L but I would think they should work on 99 2.2L -- no changes were made, correct?

I took it to an auto repair place that was recommended to me as competent (place proper diagnosis and not replace a dozen things blindly) Well, the professional diagnosis is it's out of timing. That the crankshaft is loose and something self-destructed inside. That to fix it, you have to pull the engine. I will try to get a more specific description. But I did see it up close and it did look bad. The crankshaft wobbles when running. The timing was right on the mark however, I saw, with the timing belt covers off. If someone can explain this to me more intelligently, it's welcome. I think I am going to either sell it or more likely use it as a parts car. I have a new timing belt and WP and kit (not yet installed), new radiator and other new parts in it like windshield, great to use as a parts car IMO. I don't want to fix it due to other issues - serious oil leaks, plus the engine at 150K miles is kind of "high". I think it has been abused by the PO, the miles feel like they were all city miles. It just feels a bit "beat up". I found another Legacy "L", nearly identical to my 1998 but from 1999 and with 90K miles, looks good, at least on pics. I wil check it out in person soon. Should be able to get it for 2 grand maybe, or 2.5K. All the input is greatly appreciated.

I don't know if it's the misfire that happens when it's idling and cold. It won't move in that condition when you push the gas pedal so it indicates something is wrong. However I don't recall actually seeing the codes when it's sitting at idle, they come up when it's moving at throttle. I need to check the fuel pressure, what is the tool I need to use and where do I get it? How do I check engine vacuum at idle? (You need to be as specific as possible because I've never done it) I am not sure compression has anything to do with it, as the problem improves when it warms up. I still get misfired, but at least it can move unlike when it's cold. Also the problem occured more or less at once, so I don't see how a few or all injectors can go bad all at the same time?

Yeah, it fixed it for one day. I am aware from the old posts that you tried already. I've done since then - Plugs & Wires Fuel filter Coolant Temp. Sensor O2 sensor My next stop is just swapping the coil and the Fuel pressure regulator, whether they need it or not, I am that aggravated. Total loss of power and not moving when cold.

Yeah, simple enough. Checked that hose going into the Fuel Pressure Regulator -- it's dry. No gas came out of it. Also just replaced the Water (Coolant) Temperature Sensor - to no avail. It was pretty tight getting to it. Had to disconnect half a dozen vacuum lines. Anyway, it did not make any difference. The engine is lacking all power, barely moves the car at all. I assumed that like before, it will improve with warm-up. I cleared the codes and immediately got misfire on a few cylinders. It seems to be random, sometimes 2 cylinders, sometimes 3 and usually all 4 misfire. (Codes P301, 302, 303 and 304) Also replaced the fuel filter without any results. I am at a loss here -- any idea what to try next? I am thinking about swapping the coil, since the one I got is used, maybe it's root cause?

I am not really punching the gas - it's not moving no matter what. Apparently that's a fairly common issue. I just replaced the fuel filter to no avail. I had a similar issue once where the fuel filter fixed it. Anyway, the next thing is to replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor, any idea where to get it? I think I will visit the local dealership, they must have it. This replacement appears to be well explained here: http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/CoolantTempSensor.html Secondly, if this doesn't fix it, I will check the fuel pressure regulator. I read the docs on the site - http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf but I "don't get it", what do they mean by "disconnect the fuel pump and start the engine" -- I understand the engine part, but what do I do to disconnect the fuel pump?? Remove the fuse? Or the "In" fuel line that goes to the fuel filter?

The Legacy has trouble moving when it's totally cold, meaning punch the gas pedal - and nothing happens. It just doesn't move! That has to be a dead give away as to what's wrong, I think pointing to engine coolant temperature sensor? The olde P301 through 304 are flashing like crazy upon acceleration so it's misfiring like h!#*

I have both FSM, Haynes and Chiltons and still am confused. I will look into it. I think my first thing to replace here will be the coil, as the most likely issue. If that doesn't help, I will try other things listed.

Where is FPR (fuel pressure regulator) located?

PCV has been replaced. Looking at the gas guage, I know it's not accurate, but it's approaching empty when the miles are at 160-180. It's not normal even for a AWD Legacy which is not gas frugal to begin with. If I calculate the mileage divided by gallons, I still get a figure way under 20. Maybe 16mpg in mixed driving. On highway I get 22-23mpg. We also have a 2000 Legacy OWB with 2.5L and auto (and 200K miles on it) and it gets 29mpg, so I know it's something misfunctioning here. There must be a reason why this 98 Legacy L is running so rich, you can smell raw gas out of the exhaust.

Tune up, what has been replaced is the plugs and wires and the O2 sensor. That's about all. I need to double check the air filter but the last time I looked at it, it was fine. I cannot image that the air filter could cause something like this. Timing belt hasn't been changed in a long time, not sure when last time. I don't think it's the timing belt issue? I mean, this sounds like an ignition issue. Could a Timing belt cause these misfires and code P301 through P304? In frustration, I think I will just replace all of these, in this order: 1. Coil 2. Fuel filter 3. CTS 4. Air filter

These are the only codes. sometimes 302,303,304 and sometimes all 4 cyl misfire. Where is this engine coolant temperature sensor located and where do I get one? Still worth trying to replace the coil with a new one?

98 Legacy L, 2.2L auto 150K miles Constantly getting very poor mpg, 160-180 miles/tank in mixed driving. P301, P302, P303 and P304 codes all the time, the CEL is flashing while driving. It's running rich, the exhaust smells like raw fuel sometimes. Poor acceleration at times, hesitation. Spark plugs, wires and O2 sensor are new, OEM. Should I try replacing the coil? I replaced it once with a used unit with no change. I cannot think of what it could be other than the coil.

Today again I got codes P301, 302,303 and 304 - misfire on all 4 cylinders. It's intermittent. I replaced the coil (with a used unit), could that be the issue? Or anything else could cause P30x codes?

I replaced plugs and wires last winter, with OEM Subaru parts. The P301/302 occured this spring and was very consistent. No loss in power or anything. I got a used coil and the codes went away almost completely. Did occur once after the coil swap and not again. The mileage improved somewhat after the O2 sensor change, also OEM part. I went from 23MPG on the highway to maybe 26.5 mpg on the highway. The in town mileage, in D.C. traffic is still fairly abysmal, went from 16mpg to maybe 16.5 or 17mpg after the O2 sensor swap. However, some anecdotal data: we also have a 99 OBW, auto, 2.5L, I don't drive it but I know it consistently gets 29mpg or so and it's a bigger, heavier car with bigger engine. 200K miles on it. I suspect a 2.2L/auto can get high 20's in top condition.... this one is a bit beat up. Plus I have a major oil leak, camshaft seals and more. It smokes bad at stoplights sometimes. I wonder if that contributes somehow, though it shouldn't. I haven't had P301/302 in a couple of weeks now.... How do I check the knock sensor and the cat?

98 Legacy L, 150K miles, 2.2 engine, automatic I am getting very poor MPG, even by AWD standards - 16 mpg in the mixed city driving and about 23-25 mpg on highway only at 70mph. It's drinking gas like a V8 almost. I have replaced: Spark plugs Spark plug wires Coil PCV valve Upstream O2 sensor I occasionally get P301 and P301 misfire. Got these exact codes before the coil replacement and once after the coil replacement. Cleared the codes and it hasn't come back yet (That was 1 week ago). Could it be the ignitor? The power is very good, no hesitation or anything weird on the road.

Thanks for advice, I will try that.... I paid $1200 for it at a dealer only auction, then 500 bucks to the dealer as he fee, then a few hundred in misc fees and about 400 for parts (radiator and water pump / timing belt that I haven't installed yet and not sure I will) Total close to $2500. I think it sat for a while. It still needs drive drums looked at in the tail housing (The infamous torque bind problem) All in all I could have gotten same or better deal on FeeBay -- there are plenty of manual tranny models available with lower miles and better condition and more options (this one is completely stripped without even a tach), in that price range. However this one is for a family member who must have an automatic and it's a perfect first car. If it lasts a couple of years I am happy. I tell you, the engine feels very strong after the tune-up I did. I got the coil thanks to the UltimateSubaru forums and it fixed my check engine light to my delight.

the 'law' said that they don't come out in cases like that, and just work with the insurance company.

Thanks I have the option of going to the insurance co of the party that hit me, but with the damage so minor, I am not even sure I want to bother. I can get them to pay for the fix, or maybe negotiate some cash deal (They give me $50 kind of thing and avoid insurance hike?) Another possibility is just ignore the whole thing, I am not much into cosmetic looks. What do you think? This bumper won't just come off in the future, will it? It looks solidly in place with just a minor misalignment.

I know, I know -- I need to put wheel covers back on to avoid that ghetto look. I was just checking brakes and stuff. The front ones are OK but the rear ones, well I could not figure out how to access them, the plate just wouldn't come off.

98 Legacy L wagon: I got lightly hit in the rear bumper and it apparently dislocated it a little bit. Question, how would I put it back in place? Nothing else seems to be damaged.

98 Legacy, 150K miles, 2.2L, auto Just replaced the radiator and did a tuneup (plugs, wires, coil). It's a little rough in places (oil leaks, dents and such) but all in all seems solid. I get 16mpg in city only so plan to replace O2 sensor, might help with MPG.