etc

I need a site for OEM subaru parts. Timing belts, tensioner, water pump, radiator, alternator belts, cam seals, etc. A searched pulled a few site but not sure how current they are. Haven't tried my local Subaru dealer, not sure what their prices are.

Thanks. Do I need any specialized tools for this job?

OK. How do I check that it's not a head gasket issue? It didn't look like there was any milky fluid in oil, nor did it appear that there was oil in the coolant. But I will check again. It tore off the plastic end of the radiator where the uppper radiator hose goes onto. I still had room to reinstall the hose but it tore it off one more time. I suspect the radiator is plugged up inside somehow.

Thanks. Another question, do you do most of the work from below? I have access to a rack and wonder if it's useful, or do you some of the work from the top also? My radiator failed so that needs to be replaced also.

OK. Now, who has the best Water Pump?

Where can I get a good radiator, hopefully all metal without plastic parts to break off like on this one (OEM I presume)?

Thanks for the links. Question, is that T-Belt OEM? If not, is it worth getting an OEM one at the dealer? What is that Dayco stuff, is that OEM?

98 Legacy L, 2.2L auto, 147K miles I was driving on a highway when I heard this loud pop. It sounded like a wheel exploded. About 15 seconds later I noticed on the gauge that the temperature has instantly gone into the red zone. I pulled over at that point. Opened the hood, lots of smoke and fluid everywhere. I thought it was oil but turned out to be coolant. The upper radiator hose was dangling loose. The plastic part of the radiator that the hose goes on was partially broken off. I put the upper radiator hose back on it and tightened the bracket. Filled the radiator with water and started the car. The temperature was stable just below the half mark so that was good. Got back on the highway, drove about 20 miles when the same thing repeated. Temperature shooting to the High zone, smoke. I pulled over, strangely the upper radiator hose was loose again. I connected it again, got back on the road and drove another 20 miles with no incident, temperature stable. I noticed I had no heat whatsoever. Question, is my radiator plugged up? I tried to drain it a few months ago and almost nothing came out except for a few drops. And heat worked poorly even back then, coming on after a long delaly and even then weak. Could it be a T-stat stuck in the open loop that's causing all this? I touched the upper radiator hose and it was very hot so that may disprove the above. Why does the hose keep popping off? At this point I am planning to replace all major components of the cooling system, including the radiator as it's broken anyway and the water pump, as I will be doing the Timing Belts shortly. Perhaps someone could shed some light on this?

I have the same issue on 98 Legacy L: Gas seems to be slowly disappearing.

Thanks. Do you have Ebay links for timing belt kit and the cam seals?

Awesome, thanks.

Is there a reference site on how to do this? What's the first thing you remove, the timing belt cover?

1998 Legacy, 150K miles, 2.2L auto I have a major leak at the crankshaft seal. The bottom of the engine on pass. side, near timing belt cover is covered with oil, which drips onto the exhaust, causing much smoke. How do I tell if it is crankshaft or camshaft seal? I plan to replace: The crankshaft seal Timing belt and tensioner Water pump possibly the oil pump O-ring. Is there a good thread on the forum or elsewhere detailing how to do this? Step by step guide would be helpful. I don't have a FSM only Haynes/Chilton's stuff.

Who has the best price on it? And how many qts do I need?

Can I use one of these DIY recharge kits from AAP or Autozone? 1998 Legacy L wagon.

So what's the best synthetic tranny fluid to use? 1998 Subaru Legacy L wagon, AT.

Planning on doing this on 98 Legacy L wagon... Anything different applies to it?

I have the same 98 Legacy L, and mine has 2.2L. I also had 1.8L in Loyale and and a 2.5L in a newer OBW. 2.2L is nearly as nice as 2.5L power wise but without the problems. Supposedly 2.2L will last a long time.

Subaru DLR took my registration and DL, got some 5 digit number, (which I should have copied for me I suppose) took it to the parts dept. There they cut me 2 keys, at $11 each. They look substantially different from the poor copy Home Depot made me. I don't blame HD as they didn't have a good original to go on. The sweet thing is the new keys now open the pass. side door and the rear wagon door that the old key didn't open, it was worn out terribly. So losing this key is good riddance. I used some graphite lubricant and now all door locks open real nicely. Mental note: Always keep a spare key, you never know when you lose it or lock it inside.

I talked to the Subaru service people and they said they *don't* need a VIN to make a key... weird.

An update - the copy of the original I made at Home Depot suddenly started working (after not working initially). I still need an original Subaru key however... plus I need the second key anyway.

I lost the original key for 98 Legacy. I tried to make a copy at Home Depot but what they did does not work, only opens the doors but does not start the ignition. Can I go to a dealership and have a key made using VIN?

I have exacly the same thing on 98 Legacy, nothing is being pumped, can I assume it's the motor? Where it the motor located anyway?

Ebay?

OK great, I will try it. Now re: tranny fluid, which type do I get? I've seen the chart - how many % with each flush, I think 4 flushes would be good for me? I totally don't know the history of this Legacy, when or if they ever flushed the tranny. Can flushing the tranny fix the torque bind I am getting?