etc

Update: I was able to fish out the extension from the bottom, it was actually visible and wasn't in the way of anything. Anyway, I backed out from the timing belt, water pump leaking crankshaft steal job. I don't think the leak does any harm to anything other than occasional (and scary) smoke coming out from it. I might get to timing belt/water pump next year. It just seemed too much work at the moment but if I do get to it, I will get the right tools.

It overheated again today, I must have some air bubbles. My radiator appears full but I will double check. At what point in the above procedure do you close the air vent? Secondly, do you open the radiator cap and let the coolant come out even if it appears full, like in my case? I am not sure I can add any more.

Thanks for the tip -- I understand the idea of raising the front end as high as possible.... I will try just that and try to raise it even higher. No overheating today. I am almost 100% certain it's the bubbles in it causing overheat yesterday... Yes, the fans work.

OP: Think out of the box, put a new or used (low miles) engine in it, since you got the thing apart anyway. May not be cost-effective to fix what you got, who knows if it has head gaskets, etc.

These are some awesome pics!!!

Let it seat for a while, at least a day but the longer the better. Start the car, have someone give it gas hard. Look at the exhaust. It should be really white. I saw just that on a 92 Loyale with a 1.8L.

OK. I assume you access the upstream O2 sensor from the bottom? I cannot see how you can reach it from top but I thought I would ask just in case.

On 98 Legacy L, with 2.2L, where is the upstream one located? I found one O2 sensor but I am not sure if it's the upstream or the downstream one. I hear that you don't need to have a code set to have a bad one, or a "lazy" one - they slowly degrade with age. I assume mine is the original 11 years old with 150K miles, well within the replacement territory. Secondly, where is a good place to get them? They seem to be over 100 tokens each even at places like AAP or Autozone and presumably more expensive at Subaru. I got my favorite PB Blaster penetrating oil.

I will look at it... The last time it overheated at about 4PM, when it was hot outside and had no problems at 8PM or 9AM, when it was much cooler. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, or just a coincidence. I will drive it again today during the day and see what happens...

I figured so. I got this Legacy at a dealer only car auction. I paid $1200 for it plus about $500 in fees plus about $300 in parts, around 2 grand total. I think I did "OK" but I see similar deals on Ebay, sometimes with lower miles and in better shape but usually with 5 speed it seems. This time, I just had to have a auto. The point here, coming from the auction, I don't know how long it was driven in this misfiring condition with codes P301/P302 and such. I hope not long. In any case, I don't see the loss of power that happens (I presume) with a plugged cat. Still, a scary thought on how much unburned fuel must be in the system if it got maybe 20mpg. My next mini project is to replace the O2 sensor, the upstream one, to improve MPG. At 150K miles, the current one must be half-dead.

davebugs, Thank you. I put the new coil pack in yesterday, cleared the codes, drove about 60 miles since then in all kinds of conditions -- no codes. The coil pack the car came with was bad, as were the spark plugs and the wires. I replaced these too (a few months ago) and that helped also. The mileage improved unbelievably. It was incredibly bad before, I don't think I was hitting 20mpg even. It was drinking gas like a V8 and doing that scary CEL flashing so I knew it was misfiring. Now at 60 miles since fill-up and the gauge is only at 1/8. I know the gauge is not accurate but it was abysmal before the coil pack swap. Mental note: Coil packs go bad.

I found the plastic screw. I think I saw some air come out of it, it was hissing and maybe even bubbles. Am I supposed to put coolant right into that hole or is it just for the purpose of letting air out? Drove it tonight, for an hour after sunset -- no overheating. Good news. The AC was turned on. When I parked, the overflow tank was almost empty which was good, meaning the coolant went into the radiator. I filled the overflow tank, so will see what happens tomorrow. BTW, I checked the coolant for signs of oil and the oil for signs of coolant -- none that I could find.

See, I replaced the radiator and T-stat only less than 2 weeks ago. I am not sure I got air out of the system. The radiator and T-stat are OEM Parts. I wonder if the water pump is going bad... it's not making any noises and does not appear to leak.

98 Legacy 2.2L, 150K miles Just installed new radiator and T-stat. Recharged AC. On the highway, the AC suddenly cuts out, blows warm air. Looking at temp gauge, it's at "High". The overflow tank is full and overflowing. Turned Heat to max and the temp went to normal. Tried to bleed the system several times, does this sound like air bubbles in the system preventing coolant from circlating?

I just recharged my 98 Legacy L. Not driven for a few months, apparently lost all cooling over the winter. Got that big can at AAP, and used most of it. Now blows ice cold. Have no idea how long it will last, I am open to the possibility it will leak out again this or next year.

How do you do it on the 98 Legacy L?

You got mail. Plus thanks for the links above.

You can search like this, at google: site:candlepowerforums.com topic Pulls more hits for me

All coils are replaced as a single unit as far as I understand? Where is the best source to get one, the local dealer? I am not sure I would trust with this to an aftermarket part.

98 Legacy with 2.2L engine, 150K miles The acceleration is not bad, but the MPG is abysmal, about 22MPG on highway. Upon acceleration, in the review mirror, I can see black smoke so I know it's running really rich. I am getting codes P301 and P302. The plug wires and spark plugs are new. What else could it be other than the coil pack?

Repairs like yours you should always do, but if it starts having major engine problems or tranny, then it may not be cost-effective. Don't ever expect to get your money out of it, just drive till it dies.

Mike, Nothing is blinking. I scanned the codes and got some engine related codes but not this. Thahks for the offer. Just to be clear, this is AT, not MT. Sure I can visit Richmond VA, one of these days. What do you think this repair entails? Sending you PM.

Thanks for the tip.

Like Dexron III? Where, Walmart? Or Advance Auto Parts?

Got it, thanks!! Which ATF should I use? I want to flush 4 times.