etc

So I need a case, that is, 12 quarts? I only want this Legacy to last about a year or two at most (it's too base for me, not even a tach on the L model) but I don't want it to fail tomorrow. From my experience, AT is the weakest point and I believe 30K is when tranny fluid should be changed, ideally. Where do I get the ATF fluid? Walmart? NAPA?

I needed plugs and wires and that went some hesitation go away. At 150K miles, the 02 sensor is probably "lazy".

I have access to the rack tomorrow only. How about 2 cycles? Can I do 2 cycles in one shot? I presume that means I need 8 qts?

Got it.... which ATF do you recommend?

I have 150K miles on my 98 Legacy L with torque bind. I just want to make it last to about 170K miles. I am thinking about putting the fuse in to stop this. But since I don't know anything about maintenance history, tranny fluid should be changed anyway. I smelled and it didn't seem to smell burnt. At this time, I only plan 1 drain and see if it changes anything.

Old post but I have to reply because I am in exactly the same situation: 1998 Legacy L 2.2L auto with 150K miles. I am experiencing torque bind and 23MPG on highway only. I will replace the O2 sensor. For now I am looking to change the tranny fluid with Redline 75W-90NS.

Thanks for the tip. Question, how many flushes do you recommend? And how many quarts do you estimate I will need? I want to get Redline 75W-90NS. This is on 1998 Subaru Legacy with 2.2L, auto, 147K miles.

Re: Redline 75W-90NS I will try NAPA. Maybe they have it.

I got it -- thanks. Note to self: Take pictures of everything upon taking it apart.

So they bolt to the radiator? I need to look more carefully.

The problem is, being the mechanical genius that I am, I cannot figure out which one is the passenger side and more importantly which side is up and down or left/right. Plus I cannot find where they mount to. A pic would be *really* helpful.

1998 Legacy L, 2.2L auto. I was replacing radiator and other stuff. I put it all back but now cannot figure out how to put back the dual fans. Does anyone have a pic of how it should be done?

OK thanks

Any chance of shooting pics of how it should be? I don't get it. I know I should have taken pics before taking these things apart.

Found a few things: This shows how the serpentine belts are routed: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/Y/u/94683688.gif&imgrefurl=http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1i/bl805i.htm&usg=__j3jumIGXiNTi9TVFAC8-E_ar_jk=&h=238&w=350&sz=15&hl=en&start=5&um=1&tbnid=q7Wqe5vMawbwBM:&tbnh=82&tbnw=120&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsubaru%2Blegacy%2B2.2%2Bengine%2Balternator%2Bbelt%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1 This shows more info about the tensioner. It looks like my tensioner is broker? Can I still use it? http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm

1998 Subaru Legacy 2.2L I am trying to put the alternator back on but cannot figure out the slider bolt. Where does the bracket on the bottom go? The second thing, I seem to have lost the big alternator bolt, incredibly. Could I use a shorter one as a substitute for the time being, until I visit the local junk yard? It appears I broke my AC tensioner: Question, what do I with the bracket (to the left of the AC belt tensioner)? Where does it go?

OK, I will try this just. I have the Factory Service Manual coming in shortly so that should be of help. I will take a few pics from the bottom.

OK, that makes sense. I am looking at the Factory Service Manual (pdf copy) and they go into detail on this. (Section 2-11) I guess I don't have to do all of this, as I am not really removing the engine, just rocking it forward a bit? For example I don't have to remove the AC?

Interesting.... Update, got a couple of magnetic pullers off Ebay -- no success. Question, if the short 3/8" extension dropped all the way to the bottom of the torque converter, maybe it's just settled at the very bottom without disturbing anything? I explored all the space I could get to with the magnetic pullers and it's nowhere to the side, I think it has to have hit the bottom. The two magnetic pullers I have are just not long enough, I think I need an extra long one. I think that the tension I feel when moving the crank bolt is maybe a cycle of the engine? Not the extension interfering with rotation? Also keep in mind that I have removed a lot of the accessories like belts, alternator, hoses, radiator... so if I have to move the engine forward a few inches, it shouldn't be too hard? What's involved in that? Engine mount bolts, torque converter bolts - what else?

That's great, send me an email.

I got a magnetic puller and no luck with it. I tried every which way possible, at every angle. Do not see where it went either. Afraid have to move to the next step now. Any good link for 2.2L engine removal? Step by step for idiots kind of things. Lots of pictures.

Actually, the radiator is already out as I am replacing it. I planned to do a lot of things like T-belts, W-pump, and such. So a lot of things are already disconnected. I will give it a shot with the flex magnetic grabber device, if that doesn't work, will follow the above advice.

If the magnetic pickup fails, is it possible to unbolt the torque converter and the bellhousing, then pull the engine foreward just far enough to remove the tool? It might save the trouble of disconnecting most things from the engine.

Doesn't look like I can get anything in there from the bottom.

Where do you find a good flex magnetic grabber? Second, can you confirm that removing the flywheel access plate under the motor will get me there? If I have to remove the crossmember, how difficult is that?