applegump

If memory serves, according to Chilton's, all you do is open the drain plug on the radiator, the "burp" valve on top of the radiator , and the drain plugs on the bottom of the engine. Then you add water until only clear water comes out everywhere. Then you let it drain, close everything up and refill.

Cool!

Synthetics are very good for cold climates as well as for turbo charged engines with oil cooled turbos. Although syinthetics are more expensive you also dont have to change it as often.

Always interesting to read about newer Subes!

If the starter contacts have never been replaced before, it is the first thing I would look at. I had to do mine twice so far, so about every 80k for me.

I've seen a wagon on the road and the sedan and wagon at the local dealership, very cool looking cars. Can't wait to test drive one.

There is definately an improvement especially in the upper rpm range. It also sounds better.

I've re-looked at everything and there is no sign of external leak. It can't be the turbo, cause I dont have one . I checked the radiator for a hairline crack but didn't see any. About the air trapped, it is a very small possibilty because I have added more coolant than the capacity of the system. The oil level hasn't risen to my knowledge and the oil isnt muddy. I'd now like to check the system under pressure. How is this done? What equipment do you need? If there is still no leak under presssure, then it's an intake manifold leak or a headgasekt leak, is that for sure or is there another possibility?

Just today, when the tranny/engine was cold I went into reverse and hardly moved with the engine revving. This has never happened to me before. I also recently did an ATF change (not flush).

I recently replaced the thermostat due to failure, now I seem to be loosing coolant but cannot find any external signs of leakage, neither can my mechanic. I fill everything up (including expansion tank) but after a week (250 miles) the expansion tank is practically empty and the radiator is down a few inches. Anyone know what the cause/cure is? Thanks

If you can afford it, id wait for the 05s, IMO they are just so radically improved in so many ways that I think it is worth the wait. Only concern would be new car issues, but thats what the warranty is for.

Routine maintenance parts like: oil filters water pumps engine seals (cam seal, o rings etc) thermostats oil pumps Best of luck with yorur store! Im very interested in making a purchase. BTW be sure to post the web adress of your store.

The NGKs are good too. I've always used them and are easy to come by around here.

Da** it! I can't use my 16" gold impreza alloys But on the other hand..... COOOL:brow:

How hard is it to replace the rear wheel bearings? Is it a DIY?

I already seen it! Good idea to post it though! On the new Legacy, are the headlights Xenon lights? I couldn't find any details.

Physically there should be no problems (everything bolting up) but the electrical stuff could be tricky.

Try some injector cleaner, has worked for me.

umm.... I installed a new thermostat in no time and the dealer actually had it in stock. Not that common with my dealer.:santa:

Happened to me two weeks ago, very frustrating! Spent five minutes scraping and had everything covered with frost shavings. Try running the defrost (turns on AC), this should also help reduce moisture.

Can anyone give me the subaru part number for a PCV valve for a '90 Legacy 2.2? Thanks!

If you intend to buy aftermark bulbs (higher wattage or not) I reccommend you look at Midnightmoose their prices, selection, quality and customer service are great.

Do you get a check engine light? I had the same situation a couple of months ago and it turned out to be the crank angle sensor!

I would say that the air bag deployment wasn't abnormal because hitting a tree (a rigid pole shaped object) is/can be serious, and will cause a lot of stress in a small area thus trigering the airbag sensor.

I also agree that Mobil 1 is the best synthetic, especially for the price.